DIY Guide to Replace Galaxy S10 Earpiece
Duration: between half an hour and two hours
Steps: 18 Steps
Hey there! Don’t stress if your earpiece is on the fritz – we’ve got you covered. This step-by-step guide will walk you through replacing it on your own. We’ve labeled this repair as ‘difficult’ because that back cover is stuck on there like glue (and it’s made of fragile glass, so be careful!). Make sure you set aside enough time to get it done, and don’t rush the process – especially when you’re opening up your device. We’re rooting for you to succeed, and we can’t wait to hear what you think of our repair guide. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 3
Heads up! Once you pop that Galaxy S10 open, it waves goodbye to its waterproof charm, and the warranty for dust and splash protection is out the door. Stay dry and protected!
– Grab a suction cup and stick it to the bottom of the back cover. Give it a gentle pull upwards to create a slim opening between the back cover and the housing frame.
– Next, take a flat, sturdy tool and slide it into that little gap you just made. Give it a little nudge to widen the gap further by pushing the back cover up with the tool. The iFlex is perfect for this task!
Tools Used
Step 4
– Grab a flat plastic tool and gently work your way around the edges of the housing, piece by piece. We recommend the iPlastix for this task—it’s a handy little sidekick!
Be cautious not to poke your tool in too deep; we wouldn’t want to accidentally tickle anything hiding under the back cover!
The iFlex is crafted from sleek, durable metal, which makes it a breeze to slip into the gap between the back cover and the case frame. Just a heads up, though—the sharp edges can be a bit scratchy on the frame. So, we suggest using the iFlex for those initial prying moments and then switching to the iPlastix, which is made of flexible plastic, to keep things smooth and scratch-free. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 5
8 × 3,9 mm Phillips
– First up, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those pesky screws holding the plastic cover snugly in place.
– Next, take a flat tool and gently slide it under the glued coil to loosen it up. A steel spatula works wonders for this job!
– Now, it’s time to leverage that plastic cover. Use a plastic spudger to pry it off from the upper edge of the display unit.
– And just like that, you can lift off the cover along with the coil and the NFC antenna. Easy peasy!
Step 6
Battery connector
When you’re prying things open, make sure to stick to the side without the tiny components on the mainboard. This way, you’ll steer clear of any mishaps with capacitors or ICs. Keep it safe and sound!
– Gently pry the battery connector away from the mainboard using your trusty spudger. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 7
7 × 3,9 mm Phillips
Look for the tiny triangle! That’s your cue for where to slide in your trusty tool.
Step 8
Camera connector
To keep your PCB components safe and sound, always make sure to pry from the side that’s free of any parts. Your device will thank you!
– Gently pry apart the front camera connector from the mainboard using a spudger. No need to rush, take your time!
– Once it’s free, carefully lift the camera out of its slot with tweezers. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
3 × 3,7 mm Phillips
Headphone connector
Display connector
– First up, gently detach the display connector and the headphone jack from the mainboard using your trusty spudger. Take your time and be careful!
– Next, let’s get those three Phillips screws out that are holding the board to the display unit. You’ve got this!
Step 10
If your new display comes with an earcup already attached, you can totally skip this step and move on to the next part!
– Gently loosen the earpiece by sliding a steel spatula underneath it, then use some tweezers to lift it out. Easy peasy!
Step 11
– Gently place the earpiece back into its cozy spot in the display unit.
– Give it a light press to help the glue stick like it means it!
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Step 12
– Grab that mainboard and gently slide it back into the display unit of your Galaxy S10 like a pro.
– Position the mainboard at the lower edge of the display unit and give the charger socket a little nudge to fit it back into its cozy spot.
– Now, press down on the mainboard to make sure it’s snug and secure.
– Pop the headphone jack into its designated spot on the lower part of the board and give it a gentle push until you hear that satisfying click.
– Finally, slide the SIM tray back into the frame of the display unit, and you’re all set!
Display connector
Headphone connector
3 × 3,7 mm Phillips
Before sliding that mainboard back in, give all those connectors a little bend to the side. We don’t want any flex cables getting stuck in the mix—keep it smooth!
If it doesn’t slide in like a breeze, take a moment to double-check the position of the mainboard. A little adjustment can make all the difference!
Step 13
Camera connector
Keep that camera lens squeaky clean and make sure to peel off any protective films from the display. We want everything to shine bright!
– Gently tuck that front camera back into its cozy spot at the top of the display unit.
– Give the camera a little press down, and then secure its connector like a pro!
Tools Used
Step 14
7 × 3,9 mm Phillips
Make sure it’s hanging out at the cool lower edge of the display unit.
– Position the speaker above the charging port again and press it down.
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Step 16
8 × 3,9 mm Phillips
– Pop that plastic cover back onto your Galaxy S10 like a pro by sliding it into the top of the display unit.
– Give the cover a good ol’ firm press with your fingers until it snugly fits into place.
– Secure the plastic cover using the 8 Phillips screws like a boss.
Tools Used
Step 17
Test the functionality of your device before you fasten the backcover again. In particular, test the functions of the component you have replaced.
– Fire up your device and let’s dive into Samsung’s cool built-in test mode!
– Just hit this magic combo: *#0*#
– Now, follow the prompts in the test menu and give things like the display, cameras, and sensors a good check-up.
Step 18
If the adhesive frame around your back cover has seen better days and isn’t holding up, take a moment to gently clean off the old adhesive residue and get ready to stick on a fresh adhesive frame. But if your back cover’s adhesive frame is still in good shape, you can simply pop it back on without any fuss!
– Carefully place the back cover back where it belongs, like tucking in a cozy blanket.
– Then, give it a gentle press all over to ensure the adhesive sticks like it’s meant to. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
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