Step-by-Step Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra Screen Replacement Guide
Duration: 120 min.
Steps: 35 Steps
If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, grab some parcel tape and give it a good wrap before diving into the repair. It’s all about keeping those sharp edges in check and avoiding any accidental pokes!
Now it’s time to give your screen a makeover! In this super clear and easy-to-follow photo guide, we’ll walk you through each step to make sure you nail it.
Step 1
Before diving into the repair fun, why not give your Galaxy S22 Ultra 5G a quick check-up? Use our handy checklist to test those essential functions. It’ll help you see if your repair was a hit or a miss!
– Simultaneously press and hold the side button along with the volume down button for a few seconds—like a team effort!
– Once the menu pops up, give ‘Power off’ a friendly tap to turn your device off.
Step 2
– Grab your trusty SIM tool and gently press it into the tiny opening of the SIM tray. Give it a little nudge to pop it out of the device frame.
– Once the tray is out, pull it all the way out like you’re pulling a rabbit out of a hat!
– And don’t forget to slide out the S Pen too—it’s time for it to take a break!
Tools Used
Step 3
The back cover is glued down pretty well. Give it a little love with a heat gun or a trusty hair dryer to loosen things up!
– Warm up the edge of the back cover by gliding your heat gun or hair dryer evenly along it.
Tools Used
Step 4
If you’re looking for a little extra help lifting that back cover, consider the iSclack! It’s a handy tool that makes the job easier with less effort required. Give it a try!
– Grab a suction cup and attach it to the lower edge of the back cover. Give it a gentle pull upwards to create a little opening.
– While you’re at it, slide a flat tool into that gap between the back cover and the screen unit. You’re doing great!
Step 5
To keep your camera module safe and sound, be careful not to push your tool in too deep. A hard plastic pick is your best buddy for this job!
To keep that back cover from getting too cozy with the glue again, slide in some flat plastic picks at regular intervals. It’s a simple way to ensure everything stays just where you want it!
– Run your tool all the way around the edge of the back cover, gently loosening it bit by bit like a pro!
– Once it’s free, set that back cover aside and give yourself a pat on the back!
Tools Used
Step 6
The lower part of the charging coil is stuck down with some glue, while the top is covered by a metal shield that’s secured with screws to the motherboard. Oh, and guess what? The NFC antenna is cleverly integrated right into that metal cover too!
– Gently wiggle those connectors for the charging coil and NFC antenna away from the board using your trusty spudger. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 7
5 × 3.3 mm Phillips
For a smooth repair experience, we suggest snagging a screw storage solution, like our magnetic pad. It’s a neat way to keep all those tiny screws and parts safe and sound while you work your magic!
– Unscrew those five Phillips screws holding the metal cover on the board—time to set it free!
– Lift that cover up like a champ and gently peel off the lower, glued end of the charging coil from the speaker. You’re doing awesome!
Step 8
To keep things safe and sound while you’re working your magic, always disconnect the battery as soon as you can. It’s a smart move to dodge any pesky short circuits!
– Gently wiggle that orange battery connector free from the motherboard using your trusty spudger. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
6 × 3.3. mm Phillips
Look for a little arrow and a notch on the component—they’re your best buddies for figuring out where to place your tool like a pro!
– Start by loosening those six Phillips screws that are holding the speaker in its cozy spot.
– Now, with a gentle nudge from your spudger, carefully pry the speaker out of its snug little home and set it aside like a pro.
Step 10
– Use your spudger to gently pry apart the two connecting cables from the motherboard and the USB board. You got this!
– Once you’ve done that, set those disconnected cables aside like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 11
– Gently use a spudger to pop apart the two connectors of the screen cable—it’s like a little dance between them!
– Once you’ve got them separated, carefully remove that disconnected cable from your device. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 12
– Warm up the battery by gently moving your heat gun or hair dryer along the edge of the case and the matching area on the screen. You’re doing awesome!
Avoid giving that sensitive battery a direct heat hug! Instead, warm it up gently from the edge of the case or the side of the screen glass. Keep it cool and safe!
The battery in your S22 Ultra is really sticking to the display unit like a stubborn friend! To safely free it, you’ll want to give that glue a little warmth first. A heat gun or a hair dryer will do the trick—just remember to keep it gentle!
Tools Used
Step 13
To give that battery a little wiggle and set it free, slide the iPlastix underneath with a gentle cutting motion. It’s like a smooth dance move for your device!
– Position the battery spudger at the lower edge of the battery and gently lift it upward like you’re giving it a little boost!
– Carefully take out the battery from the device, it’s time for it to take a break!
– Slide the flat iPlastix under the battery at the lifted edge and gradually detach the battery from the bottom of the screen unit, bit by bit. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 14
3 × 3.3 mm Phillips
– Unscrew the three Phillips screws that are holding the USB board in place—let’s give it some breathing room!
– Now, gently pry that board out of the device like you’re lifting a secret treasure!
Step 15
3 × 3.3 mm Phillips
Before you can set that motherboard free, you gotta lift off the board cover that’s chillin’ on top of it!
– First, gently disconnect the cover’s connector from the motherboard—like giving it a little hug!
– Next, loosen those three Phillips screws that are keeping it snug. You’ve got this!
– Finally, lift that cover up and wave goodbye as you remove it from the device.
Step 16
– Disconnect the three remaining connectors from the motherboard—those little guys are for the S Pen and the front camera. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 17
1 × 3.3 mm Phillips
Watch out when you’re lifting that motherboard! You don’t want to accidentally tangle with the main camera or those delicate flex cables. Keep it gentle and steady!
– Loosen the lone Phillips screw that holds the board in place. You’re almost there!
– Next, grab your spudger and gently wiggle the board free from the device. You’ve got this!
Step 18
The front camera is really stuck in there, like it’s made a cozy home in the screen unit! So, give it some warmth with your heat gun or hair dryer for a bit longer to help it come out smoothly. You’ve got this!
– Gently coax the camera out of its snug little home by sliding ESD tweezers between the adhesive layer and the camera guide. You’re doing great!
– Once it’s free, set the camera aside like a true repair champion.
Tools Used
Step 20
– Carefully slide the front camera back into its designated spot and give it a nice, firm press to make sure it’s snug.
Step 21
1 × 3.3 mm Phillips
When you’re sliding that motherboard in, be super careful not to squish any connectors or flex cables! If they start to get in the way, just gently hold them aside. You’ve got this!
– Gently place the board back into your device, ensuring it’s sitting nice and level all around.
– Secure it in place with that trusty single Phillips screw.
Tools Used
Step 22
Take your time when connecting those little connectors—no need to muscle them down! A connector gone rogue can throw a wrench in the works for the whole component. So, be gentle and let them slide into place!
– Reconnect the front camera and S Pen by gently pressing their connectors onto the motherboard. Listen for that satisfying click and feel it lock into place!
Step 23
3 × 3.3 mm Phillips
Those plastic lugs on the board cover should snap into the case frame with a satisfying click! If they’re not making that noise, it might mean the motherboard isn’t sitting flat. Let’s make sure everything is snug and secure!
– Pop that board cover back onto the motherboard like it belongs there!
– Secure it in place with the three Phillips screws—let’s keep it snug!
– Gently press its connector back onto the board, giving it the perfect little hug.
Tools Used
Step 24
3 × 3.3 mm Phillips
When you’re placing that USB board back in, just double-check that the charging jack is snugly fit into the edge of the case. You’ve got this!
– Slide that USB board back into its cozy spot in the screen unit, just like tucking in a blanket!
– Secure it with the three Phillips screws—let’s keep it nice and snug!
Tools Used
Step 26
The cable labels are your trusty sidekicks for getting everything lined up just right in your device. Trust them to guide you!
– Carefully line up the screen cable inside the device and click those two connectors into place on the motherboard and the separate slot in the screen unit. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Those handy cable labels are here to help you get everything lined up just right in your device. Trust them to lead the way!
– Carefully line up both connecting cables one after the other inside the device, and then attach their connectors to the USB and motherboard. You’re doing great!
Step 28
6 × 3.3 mm Phillips
Ensure that your speaker is sitting nice and even all around. Those little plastic lugs need to snugly fit into the edge of the case for a perfect fit!
– Place the speaker back in its original spot like it never left!
– Secure it in place with those six Phillips screws, giving it a nice snug fit.
Tools Used
Step 29
Hey there! To keep things chill and avoid any pesky short circuits, it’s best to connect the battery at the very end of your repair adventure. You got this!
– Reconnect the battery by gently pressing its connector onto the motherboard like you’re giving it a friendly high-five!
Step 30
5 × 3.3 mm Phillips
– Get that charging coil lined up over the motherboard again, making sure it matches those screw holes in the metal cover.
– Give that glued end a solid press—let’s make sure it’s stuck!
– Secure everything in place by screwing down the cover with those five Phillips screws. You’re on a roll!
Tools Used
Step 31
– Reconnect the NFC antenna and charging coil by gently pressing their connectors onto the motherboard. You’re doing great—just a little nudge and they’ll snap right back into place!
Step 32
At this stage, it’s a great idea to give that replacement screen a little test run along with some basic functions! Don’t forget to check off items on our handy checklist and dive into the internal Samsung test menu using the code *#0*#. You’ve got this!
– Fire up your Galaxy once more!
– Give that touch function a whirl by sliding an app around on the screen—let’s see how it responds!
Step 33
– Get that new adhesive frame ready to party by aligning it with the back cover. Those cutouts in the film are your trusty guides!
– Peel off the carrier film from the bottom of the adhesive frame and press it onto the edge of the back cover like it’s a match made in heaven.
– Now, for the grand finale, carefully peel off the remaining protective film from the top of the adhesive frame. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 34
Give that back cover a little extra love by running some hot air along its edge to help the glue stick like a champ! If you want to give it some added weight, feel free to stack a few books on top for a few minutes. You got this!
– Wrap up your Galaxy S22 Ultra repair by gently pressing the back cover back onto the screen unit. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 35
Don’t forget to pop that SIM tray back in the correct way! It’s like a puzzle piece—only fits one way!
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