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Galaxy S9+ Screen Replacement Guide DIY Tutorial

Duration: 60 min.
Steps: 32 Steps

Get ready to tackle your Galaxy S9+ display replacement with this super clear, step-by-step guide! If your screen is cracked, the touchscreen is playing hard to get, or the display is just being moody and flickering, it’s time for a change. We’re swapping out the whole display unit, frame and all, not just the glass. Depending on your new part, you might need to snag a few small bits from the old display. Now, opening up the Galaxy S9+ through the glass back cover can be a bit of a workout, so make sure you’ve got some time to spare. Don’t forget to back up your data, set up a tidy workspace, and be patient with the process. If you hit a snag, feel free to reach out via our live chat or drop a comment on the step you’re on. Happy repairing!

Step 1

– Power down your device! Hold that power button until “Power off” shows up.

– Tap to confirm and watch your Galaxy S9+ go to sleep. Sweet dreams!

Step 2

– The back cover is really stuck to the chassis, so let’s give it a little warmth! Use some hot air to evenly heat the device and soften that stubborn glue. Aim for a cozy temperature between 60 – 80°C—just warm enough to touch without feeling like you’re holding a hot potato.

– To gently pry off the back cover, grab a flat and flexible tool like the iPlastix or iFlex. You’ll also want a few picks handy to help unstick the cover all around. Teamwork makes the dream work!

Step 3

– Once you’ve popped off the back cover, gently lift it up and use your spudger to disconnect that sneaky fingerprint sensor.

– Now, go ahead and fully remove the back cover and set it aside like a pro.

Step 4

– Unscrew the screws holding the upper cover in place.

– The cover is snug on the case, and the lower part of the antenna is gently stuck down. Wiggle a flat tool under the cover’s edges to release it.

– Time to bid farewell to the antenna.

Step 5

– Using the spudger, carefully disconnect the battery contact from the motherboard.

Step 6

– Start by directing some hot air at the display side to loosen things up a bit.

– Next, grab a flat tool like the iFlex and gently run it around the battery to help it break free.

– Now, it’s time to carefully remove the battery and say goodbye to your old pal!

Step 7

– Unscrew those little screws holding the speaker to the display and gently take it out. You’ve got this!

Step 8

– Disconnect the connectors of the front camera and the sensor.

– Then you can pry out the front camera and the sensor out of the chassis and then remove them.

Step 9

– Grab your trusty SIM tool and give that SIM card tray a little nudge to pop it out of your device. Once it’s out, gently pull the tray out with your fingers. Easy peasy!

Step 10

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently disconnect the highlighted contacts from the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Now, with a steady hand, lift the motherboard out. Just be careful not to snag it on any of those connectors you just freed up.

– The USB port is still hanging out with the back of the board. Once you’ve lifted the board, use that spudger to disconnect this little buddy.

– Finally, find a cozy spot to set the board aside and keep it safe while you work your magic.

Step 11

– The vibration motor is snugly glued to the enclosure. Gently wiggle your tool between the enclosure and the motor to free it up.

– Now, go ahead and remove the motor!

Step 12

– The sensor cable is snugly glued to the display. Gently pry it loose using a flat tool, being careful not to cause any damage. You’ve got this!

– Once it’s loose, grab a pair of tweezers and carefully pull the cable away. Easy peasy!

Step 13

– The earpiece is stuck on there pretty well, so grab a flat tool like a steel spatula and gently pry it away from the enclosure. You’ve got this!

Step 14

– First, grab your screwdriver and unscrew the screw holding the jack in place. It’s a quick job, no worries!

– Next, carefully disconnect the headphone jack’s contact from the PCB. A spudger works great for this—just gently pry the contact out of the socket.

– Lastly, pull the headphone jack out of the enclosure. You’re almost there!

Step 15

– Time to get those screws out! Start by removing the ones we’ve marked for you.

– Next up, gently detach the two antenna cables from their little guide.

– Now, grab your trusty spudger and carefully pry the board out. Once it’s free, you can lift it away completely!

Step 16

– In the new display’s enclosure, all the adhesive surfaces and thermal
pads are covered with transparent protective film. Remove the protective
film before you start with assembly.

Step 17

– Give that USB board a cozy new home by reinstalling it.

Step 18

– Slide that jack right into its cozy spot at the bottom edge of the enclosure.

– Give the plug contact a nice snug connection.

– Now, let’s secure it all in place with the right screw.

Step 19

– Carefully place the earpiece back into its cozy little home.

– Give it a gentle press to help that glue get a good grip!

Step 20

– Slide that sensor cable right into its cozy spot at the top edge of the enclosure.

– Give the sensor a good press with your finger to make sure the glue gets a solid grip again.

Step 21

– Nestle that vibration motor snugly into the cozy little round spot on the left side of the enclosure.

– Give it a gentle but firm press with your fingers to make sure it’s settled in nice and secure.

Step 22

– First, plug in that USB port on the back of the board like a pro!

– Next up, gently slide the board back into its cozy enclosure. Just be sure no cables or connectors are getting cozy under there with it.

– Secure the motherboard in place with the designated screw – it’s time to lock it down!

– Finally, reconnect those marked contacts to the board. You’re almost there!

Step 23

– Pop that SIM card tray back into your device like a pro! Just make sure it’s lined up right and snug as a bug.

Step 24

– Slide the front camera and sensor into their cozy spot at the top of the enclosure and plug those connectors back in!

Step 25

– Slide that battery right into the cozy little spot in the middle of the enclosure. It’s a snug fit, just how we like it!

– Give the battery a good press into the enclosure to help that glue do its magic. You’ve got this!

Step 26

– Alright, let’s get that speaker settled at the lower end of the enclosure. Nice and easy!

– Give it a gentle press with your fingers until you hear that satisfying click—it’s like music to your ears!

– Now, it’s time to bring back those marked screws and secure everything in place. You’ve got this!

Step 27

– It’s time to connect the battery to the motherboard! Just press that contact onto the connection until you hear a satisfying click. You’ve got this!

Step 28

– Carefully place the cover with the antenna back into the enclosure, making sure to hook it onto the top first.

– Then, give the cover a gentle press with your fingers until you hear that satisfying click all around.

– Now, let’s secure things by tightening those Phillips screws.

Step 29

– Hey there! Before you seal the deal with the back cover, make sure to plug in that fingerprint sensor connector. It’s a little detail that makes a big difference!

– Grab a plastic tool to help you reach that connector. It’s like giving your device a gentle nudge in the right direction!

Step 30

– Before you snap that back cover into place, take a moment to check out the adhesive. It should be sitting nice and even along the edge so that the back cover fits perfectly. If you spot any excess glue, feel free to tidy it up a bit.

Step 31

– Carefully place the back cover back where it belongs.

– Give the back cover a gentle press all around to ensure the glue makes a solid bond.

Step 32

– Get your device up and running by giving it a good ol’ test drive.

– Dial *#0*# to hop on over to the test mode party.

– Just follow those snazzy screen cues like a pro.

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