Step-by-Step iPhone 11 Battery Replacement Guide

– Grab your pick and measure a cool 3 mm from the tip. Mark it with a permanent marker to keep it spot on!

– Slap some clear packing tape over your phone’s screen, covering it completely. It’s like giving your phone a little see-through coat!

– Having trouble making the suction cup stick? No worries! Just grab a strong tape like duct tape, fashion a makeshift handle, and use it to lift the screen. Easy-peasy!

– Tug the blue handle back to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Extend the arms to clasp the left or right side of your iPhone.

– Align the suction cups near the iPhone’s lower edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

– Press the cups together to create a strong suction on the area.

– Yank the blue handle towards you to lock those arms in place.

– Give that handle a good twist clockwise—keep going for a full 360 spin or until you feel the cups getting a stretch.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups; they should stay buddies. If they start throwing a fit and slipping, just ease them up a bit and line them up again.

– Warm up an iOpener and sneak it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro.

– Cozy the iOpener up on the bottom edge of the iPhone to get things nice and toasty.

– Hang tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and show a little gap for your next move.

– Pop an opening pick into the gap between the screen and the plastic bezel. Remember, we’re not targeting the screen itself!

– Go ahead and skip the next three steps—consider them donezo!

– Grab your hairdryer, heat gun, or whip out an iOpener and give the lower edge of your iPhone a warm hug for about a minute.

– Pop a single suction handle onto the lower edge of your phone, steering clear of the glass’s curvy bits.

– Give a good tug on the suction cup to create a small opening between the front panel and the rear case. Keep it steady and strong!

– Pop in an opening pick into that gap you just made. Aim for the space between the screen and the plastic bezel, and remember, we’re not poking at the screen itself!

– Whip your opening pick around the lower left corner and glide it up the left edge of your iPhone, cutting through the sticky adhesive that’s holding the display hostage.

– Pop your pick back in at the bottom edge of your iPhone, then skate it up the right side to keep on loosening that sticky adhesive.

– Carefully nudge the right edge of the display down a tad—think towards the Lightning port.

– Pop your pick into the top-right corner of the phone and let the magic begin.

– Keep on tugging that display downward (heading towards the Lightning port) until you’ve made a gap big enough to slip the pick into.

– Wiggle that pick up to the top left corner and slice through any stubborn adhesive still holding the display.

– Give that tiny nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to free it from the front panel. Whoop! There it goes!

– Kick off by swinging the display up from the left side, like opening a book to your favorite chapter.

– Lean the display against something solid to keep it propped up.

– When putting it all back together, position the display gently, align the top clips, and press the top edge down first before securing the rest of the display. If it doesn’t snap into place with a satisfying click, double-check the clips around the display’s edge to make sure they’re not out of shape.

– To get to those sneaky screws, just give the lower edge of the display a little lift and tilt it up. Easy peasy!

– Grab your Y000 screwdriver and take out the three screws that are 1.1 mm long, holding down the battery connector bracket.

– When putting things back together, it’s a smart move to turn on your iPhone and check that everything is working before you seal up the display. Remember to shut down your iPhone completely before you proceed with the rest of the work.

– Yo, it’s time to pop off that bracket!

– Grab a spudger or use your trusty fingernail to gently lift the battery connector from its home on the logic board.

– Give the connector a little bend away from the logic board to keep it from making an oopsie connection.

– Grab your Y000 driver and unscrew those five tiny 1.1 mm screws holding down the logic board cover bracket. It’s like a mini treasure hunt!

– Pop off that bracket with style!

– Grab a spudger or just use your fingernail to pop off the LCD panel cable connector like a pro.

– Right next to it, give the digitizer connector a gentle nudge and disconnect it too.

– Grab a spudger or use your trusty fingernail to pop off the front panel sensor assembly connector like a pro!

– Take off the display assembly.

– When putting things back together, take a break here if you’re planning to swap in some fresh waterproof adhesive around the display’s edges.

– Grab your Phillips driver and let’s tackle those five screws holding down the bracket near the Taptic engine and speaker. It’s screw-removal time!

– Pop off that lower bracket!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift off the black tape and rubber pad hiding the Taptic Engine connector. It’s like uncovering hidden treasure!

– Unscrew the quintet of screws that are playing keep-away with your speaker and brackets.

– Unhook the tiny grounding clip chilling in the top right corner of the speaker. It’s just hanging out there!

– Unscrew the Taptic Engine connector cover with style!

– Gently nudge and scoot the tiny board hiding the last speaker screw in the bottom right corner of your iPhone. It’s like a mini dance move!

– Unscrew the 2.4 mm standoff that’s been chilling underneath.

– Wedge your spudger under the top edge of the speaker, right by the iPhone’s outer shell.

– With a gentle nudge, coax the top edge of the speaker upwards.

– Grab the speaker gently by its smooth edges and give it a gentle wiggle from side to side, loosening the adhesive holding it snug at the bottom of your iPhone.

– Slowly and steadily pull the speaker upwards from the bottom of your iPhone until the adhesive gasket gracefully lets go.

– Yank that speaker out! Just kidding—gently remove the speaker. If you’re feeling extra, consider swapping out the speaker’s adhesive gasket to keep the elements out during reassembly.

– Grab your Phillips driver and let’s remove those two tiny 1.8 mm screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.

– Grab a spudger and gently pop the Taptic Engine flex cable off its socket with a little pry action. Easy does it!

– Time to wave goodbye to the Taptic Engine! Go ahead and take it out.

– Each strip of sticky magic comes with a nifty black pull-tab at one end. It’s just lightly stuck and folded over the top of the battery—ready for action!

– Gently pull back the trio of adhesive tabs from the battery’s bottom edge. Let’s get that battery moving!

– Boost your chances of success with these tips:

– If a strip snaps under the battery and you can’t get it out, don’t sweat it! Just tackle the remaining strips and then roll with the steps that follow.

– Gently tug on one battery adhesive tab, pulling it towards the iPhone’s bottom edge. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Keep up the tension and pull consistently until the strip gracefully slides out from between the battery and the rear case. You’re doing great!

– Just like you did before, repeat the steps to remove the remaining two adhesive+strips+iPhone+11&crid=1TJIMMAJSUJUZ&sprefix=repair+tools%2Caps%2C165&linkCode=ll2&tag=salvationrepa-20&linkId=c486487cf454ce8edd6f5beefab4110f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl'>adhesive strips at the bottom edge of your iPhone. Keep the vibe high, you’re almost there!

– Flip those three battery adhesive tabs down from the top edge of the battery like you’re peeling a banana. Let’s make this battery move!

– Gently tug each top adhesive strip out one by one, using the cool technique you mastered with the bottom strips.

– Hey, if you aced it and got all the adhesive+strips+iPhone+11&crid=1TJIMMAJSUJUZ&sprefix=repair+tools%2Caps%2C165&linkCode=ll2&tag=salvationrepa-20&linkId=c486487cf454ce8edd6f5beefab4110f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl'>adhesive strips out, awesome! Feel free to skip the next step.

– Ran into a sticky situation where an adhesive strip broke off under the battery and went MIA? No sweat, just carry on to the following step.

– Oops! If you’ve got a stubborn battery clinging on because an adhesive strip decided to break, don’t sweat it! Just drip a little isopropyl alcohol (make sure it’s 90% or more, the good stuff!) right under the battery where the strip was playing tough. Let it sit for a minute.

– Once the minute’s up, give that battery a gentle nudge upwards and it should come free without a fuss.

– If your battery is playing hard to get and you don’t have any liquid solvent handy, warm things up by using an iOpener or blow drying the back of the case right behind the battery.

– Flip your iPhone over and sneak a strong string, like dental floss, under the battery.

– Wiggle the string back and forth in a sawing motion to cut through that stubborn adhesive. It might take a bit, since that glue is tough, but keep at it! Remember, be gentle with that battery—no squishing or poking.

– Take out the battery first.

– Pop in the Taptic Engine and speaker before slotting in a fresh battery to keep everything lined up nicely.

– Hook up the battery connector to the motherboard temporarily when fitting the new battery, just to make sure it sits perfectly in its spot.

– If your new battery is missing adhesive, check out our guide to get those sticky strips on point.

– Give your device a quick force restart once it’s all back together. It helps iron out any quirks and makes troubleshooting a breeze.