(601) 699-8246

|

hello@salvationrepair.com

APPLE

  1. Home
  2. Posts

iPhone 4s – Replacing the standby/proximity sensor cable

Duration: 105 min.
Steps: 38 Steps

In this guide, we show you how to replace your iPhone 4s’ defective standby/sensor cable. You need this repair if the standby button isn’t working or has no pressure point.Even if your screen no longer goes dark when you’re talking on the phone, replacing this cable will fix the problem. In this guide, we show you how to replace your iPhone 4s’ defective standby/sensor cable. You need this repair if the standby button isn’t working or has no pressure point.Even if your screen no longer goes dark when you’re talking on the phone, replacing this cable will fix the problem.

Step 1

- You need a pentalobe screwdriver to open your phone.

- Remove the two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure. They are located to the right and left of the dock connector. Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray.2 x 3.6 mm pentalobe screws

Step 2

- Use your thumbs or the palm of your hand to push the back cover of your iPhone about 4 mm away from the bottom of the phone where the dock connector is (see figure 1).

- Then you can lift the back cover at the end that’s sticking out past the phone (see figure 2).

Step 3

- If your iPhone’s still on, turn it off now by holding down the standby button for about five seconds and following the prompt on the display.

- Remove the two Phillips screws on the battery connector using a Phillips screwdriver (see figure 1). Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray.1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screwThe contact point on the logic board could come off. If the contact point breaks off but the soldering points are still intact, you can solder the contact point back on.

- Now carefully lift off the battery connector by inserting the pointed ESD spudger slightly below the silver cover plate (see figure 2). If you don’t have a spudger, you can also try using your fingernail.

- For the rest of the repair, you can also use the metal laboratory spatula instead of the spudger. This may make some steps easier for you. However, we explicitly recommend using the ESD spudger produced specifically for precision electronics.

Step 4

- The antenna cover is under the battery connector. Remove the cover and put it in the same compartment of your organizer tray as the Phillips screws you removed before (see figure 1).

- Now remove the battery. It’s sometimes glued firmly in place. Insert the flat end of the spudger into the space (about 1 cm to the left of the volume down button) between the battery and the outer frame, and slowly lift the battery (see figure 2). If the battery’s really stuck on, use other leverage points to the right and left of the original spot to pry it off. If you still can’t detach the battery, you can use a heat gun to warm it slightly from the outside and soften the glue.

- Now you can also disconnect the antenna connector by carefully pulling it off the plug head using the spudger (see figure 3).

Step 5

- Fold the plastic tab with the warning over and press it firmly onto the lower adhesive strip. This way, it won’t get in the way during your repair.

- Of course, you can also remove the plastic tab.

Step 6

- First, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove those two screws holding the dock connection cable in place. Don't forget to take off that shiny silver cover (check out figure 1 for a visual). 1 x 1.1 mm Phillips screw, 1 x 1.4 mm Phillips screw.

- Next, toss those screws and the cover into the same compartment of your organizer tray. It's super easy to keep track of them this way!

- Now comes the fun part! Gently detach the connector by using the pointed tip of your spudger to lift it up. If you’re feeling crafty, your fingernail can do the trick too (see figure 2).

- Finally, pull the flat cable off the logic board – it's just lightly glued, so be careful as you bend it over the frame (see figure 3).

Step 7

- Remove the four Phillips screws from the cover (see figure 1). Put the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray. It’s easy to tell them apart.1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws1 x 2.7 mm Phillips screw (thin thread)

- The cover is slightly clamped in place on the midframe (see figure 2). In order to remove the cover, use the spudger to push it slightly to the left, toward the dock connector (see figure 3).

Step 8

- Use the spudger to lift off the camera connector and remove the camera (see figure 1).

- Use a pair of tweezers or the laboratory spatula to remove the black sticker below the flash (see figure 2).

- There’s a Phillips screw below that. Remove it (see figure 3).1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw

- Now remove the copper contact (see figure 4).

- Put all the parts in the same compartment of your organizer tray.

Step 9

- Now you can disconnect the following five connectors. Be very careful.

- Place the pointed tip of the spudger very slightly below the contact and lift it up.

- Start with theconnector. There’s a secondconnector below it.

- Test the new audio cable set.

Step 10

- Remove the Phillips screw on the antenna cover (see figure 1). Put the screw in a separate compartment of your organizer tray.1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw

- Now you can remove the cover of the antenna cable (see figure 2).Put it with the screw you removed before.

- Disconnect the antenna connector below it using the spudger (see figure 3).

Step 11

- You can use the SIM Tool or a paperclip to remove the SIM card tray. Press the SIM Tool into the small hole in the SIM card tray to remove it.

Step 12

- Now unscrew all four screws that hold the logic board in place (see figure 1) and sort them as follows./and/in two different compartments of your organizer tray.

- You’ll need both the Phillips screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver or the laboratory spatula.1 x 4.9 mm Phillips/flathead screw1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw1 x 3.7 mm Phillips/flathead screw

- Now you can carefully lift the logic board below the battery connection using the spudger (see figure 2) and remove it by hand (see figure 3).

- There’s a little black rubber protector on the upper end of the logic board (see figure 4). It comes off easily. Put it with the screws from this step so it doesn’t get lost.

Step 13

- Loosen the two Phillips screws on the speaker but only remove the one in the turquoise circle (see figure 1). This way, you won’t have to struggle to get the little black triangle back in later. Put the screw in a separate compartment of your organizer tray.1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw (just loosen)1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw

- Use the spudger to remove the speaker (see figure 2).

Step 14

- Now remove the vibration motor.

- It’s glued firmly in place. It may help if you warm it up with a heat gun to soften the glue.

- Insert the spatula or spudger below the vibration motor and carefully lift it out.

Step 15

- The identical Phillips screws in the four corners of your iPhone are still holding the display in place.

- In the corner with the turquoise circle, this screw is under a sticker. You have to remove it first.

- Remove all four screws.3 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Step 16

- Now carefully loosen the six identical Phillips screws (three on each side) by two or three turns.6 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws

- You don’t need to remove the screws completely. This way, it’ll be easier to put your phone back together later.

Step 17

- It may help to warm up the front of the display at the top and bottom using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the glue (see figure 1).

- Insert the flat end of the spudger about 2 to 3 mm between the display assembly and the silver frame, and slowly lift the screen. If you use a different pointed or flat tool, make sure you don’t scratch the front panel from the inside. This is especially important when you’re replacing the Home button’s flexible flat cable because you’ll be using the same screen.

- Start between the headphone output and the standby button (see figure 2). As soon as there’s a little gap, try to pull off the display with your fingers. The strength of the glue can vary greatly.

- Using the spudger, work your way around the entire frame once (see figure 3). If the display is still really stuck on, use some more hot air.

- Keep warming it up until you can easily lift the display assembly (see figure 4) and it’s no longer stuck on (please note: The display’s connection cables are on the side with the standby button).

Step 18

- Pay special attention to the touch and LCD cable when you remove the display.

- Carefully guide this cable through the midplane.

Step 19

- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those two Phillips screws that are keeping the standby support frame snug against the standby button. Don't forget to stash them in the same compartment of your organizer tray (check out figure 1 for a visual). 2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws

- Now, with a little care, gently lift that standby support frame to set it free (see figure 1).

Step 20

- Remove the flat black metal bracket that holds the sensors in place using the spatula (see figure 1). The bracket is clamped very firmly in place.

- Insert the spatula below the cable set and lift the cable set to remove it. It’s lightly glued in place (see figure 2). For now, leave the earpiece stuck on the cable set.

Step 21

- You need to transfer the following parts:Standby support frameEarpieceSoft sticker on the connector

- Standby support frame

- Earpiece

- Soft sticker on the connector

Step 22

- The rocker frame for the standby button has to face downward (see figure 1).

- Carefully put in the cable set (see figure 2).

- Fold the cable set over the earpiece again and put the sensors on the end of the cable set back in the original position (see figure 3).

- Then clamp the flat black metal bracket back on (see figure 4).

- Now put the standby support frame back in so you can screw it in place.

Step 23

- Now fasten the two Phillips screws again.2 x 1.4 mm Phillips screws

Step 24

- See if you can press the Home button as usual once the assembly is evenly on the frame. Make sure that the display is properly fitted to the frame (see figure 3).

- Make sure the washers for the six identical Phillips screws are fitted properly (see figure 4). (The display’s clips should be between the washer and the frame.)

Step 25

- Now you have to tighten the six identical Phillips screws (three on each side).6 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws

Step 26

- Fasten all four identical Phillips screws again.3 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw

- Don’t forget to put the little black sticker back on the screw.

Step 27

- Now put the vibration motor in the appropriate position.

- The old glue is usually enough to hold it, but if the vibration motor is too loose, use new glue. If it’s not securely attached, your phone’s vibration will be weaker.

Step 28

- Put the speaker back in.

- At first, only tighten the two Phillips screws on the speaker a little bit (see figure 1).1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw

- The speaker’s clips have to be against the speaker behind the higher level of the middle cover (see figure 2). This is easiest if you only slightly screw in the speaker at first so it can still move around a little.

- Once the clips are fitted properly, you can tighten the screws.

Step 29

- Put the rubber protector back on the sharp edge of the logic board. The thicker part should be facing down (see figure 1).

- Put the logic board back in carefully as shown in the picture (see figure 2). The logic board will click gently into place when it’s in the right position. This may take several attempts. Use figure 3 to check whether your logic board is in the right place.Make sure the antenna cable attached to the speaker isn’t under the logic board.

- Now screw in all four Phillips screws that hold the logic board in place (see figure 3).1 x 4.9 mm Phillips/flathead screw1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw1 x 3.7 mm Phillips/flathead screw

Step 30

- Connect the antenna connector (see figure 1).

- Put on the cover for the antenna cable (see figure 2).

- Fasten the Phillips screw on the antenna cover (see figure 3).1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw

Step 31

- Put the copper contact back in as shown in the picture (see figure 1).

- Then tighten the Phillips screw in the thread again (see figure 2).1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw

- Use tweezers or the laboratory spatula to put on the black sticker (see figure 3).

- Connect the camera connector.

Step 32

- Carefully put on the cover. It will be slightly clamped in place (see figure 1).

- Fasten all the Phillips screws on the connector cover (see figure 2):1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws1 x 2.7 mm Phillips screw (thin thread)

Step 33

- Connect the dock connection cable again and put the silver cover on it.

- Fasten the two Phillips screws for the dock connection cable.1 x 1.1 mm Phillips screw1 x 1.4 mm Phillips screw

Step 34

- Detach the plastic tab with the warning or stick it back in if you took it out.

Step 35

- Now put the battery back in the iPhone.

- First you have to attach the antenna connector again (see figure 1).

- Then install the antenna cover (see figure 2).

- Now click the battery connector back into place and screw it in (see figure 3).1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw

Step 36

- Reconnect all five contacts. Use your finger to carefully press them in. Only use as much pressure as you need for the contacts to gently click into place.

- If the LCD cable is too short, you forgot to pull it tightly through the slot in the midframe.

Step 37

- Put the back cover back on and carefully push it the last few millimeters toward the dock connector.

Step 38

- Now screw in the two screws at the bottom of the enclosure.2 x 3.6 mm pentalobe screws

- Then all you have to do is push in the SIM card tray.

0 Comment

Leave a Reply

Registration isn't required.