iPhone 5 – Removing the mainboard
Duration: 60 min.
Steps: 24 Steps
In this guide, we're diving into the fun world of logic board removal for your iPhone 5! Giving your device a good cleaning? You’ll definitely want to get that logic board out. Let's roll up our sleeves and get started!
Step 1
- Grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver to get that iPhone 5 open!
- Now, let's tackle those two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure. They're hanging out right next to the Lightning connector, one on each side. Make sure to stash those screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You’ve got 2 x 3.6 mm pentalobe screws to keep track of!
Step 2
- Give your iPhone 5 a comfy spot on a soft, clean surface – we don't want any accidental scratches on its gorgeous back!
- Grab your suction cup and trusty plastic pick for this next part. If your screen's looking a little worse for wear (major cracks!), wrap it up snugly in some packing tape.
- Stick that suction cup right over (or next to) the Home button (check out Figure 1 for a visual!). Now, while gently lifting the screen with the suction cup, slide your plastic pick between the aluminum frame and the display. Gently press down on the aluminum frame as you use the pick to carefully lift the screen (Figures 2 and 3 will be your best friends here). It might take a few tries – patience is key!
- Once you've got the screen lifted just a tad (Figure 4), work your way around the edges until it's loose on both sides (see Figure 5). Easy peasy!
- With the display fully detached, you can flip it up at the Home button. Remember, those display cables are still connected to the logic board – we'll tackle those in the next step!
Step 3
- First, let's tackle those three Phillips screws hiding under the silver cover (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Make sure to stash those screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You’ve got 2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws and 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw (not magnetic) to keep track of!
- Now, it's time to disconnect the three connectors (see figure 2). Just a friendly reminder to be super careful here!
- Take your spudger and gently slide the pointed tip just below the contact to lift it up. Be cautious not to break off any resistors soldered onto the logic board. In later models, those resistors are protected by a black plastic film. We're dealing with the LCD, touchscreen, and front camera/sensor/earpiece here!
Step 4
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove those Phillips screws on the battery connector (see figure 1). Then, use the spudger to lift the cover (see figure 2). Keep all the parts together in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You've got 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw (funnel head) and 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw to keep track of!
- Now, gently lift off the battery connector by sliding the pointed tip of the ESD spudger just below the connector (see figure 3). No spudger? No problem! You can also use your fingernail.
Step 5
Hey there! The logic board is super delicate, so handle with care. You can also lift the battery from the other side if needed.
- Time to take out that battery! Sometimes it's stuck on pretty tight. Slide the flat end of your spudger between the battery and the logic board, and gently lift the battery. The logic board is super sensitive, so be careful. You can also try lifting the battery from the other side. If it's really stuck, use other leverage points on the right and left to pry it off. Still can't get it off? Use a heat gun to warm the glue from the outside and soften it up.
Step 6
- Flip the plastic tab with the warning over and stick it down firmly onto the adhesive strip. This way, it won't be a bother during your repair.
Step 7
- Ready to ditch that SIM card? Grab your SIM tool (or a paperclip – you're resourceful!), and gently nudge it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray. Pop! Out it comes!
Step 8
- Take out the Phillips screw and the silver cover below it (see figure 1). Keep the parts together in the same compartment of your organizer tray. 1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw
- Unplug the Lightning connector’s ribbon cable (see figure 2) by gently placing the pointed tip of the spudger just below the contact and lifting it up. Then carefully fold the cable over.
Step 9
- Gently pop off the antenna connector using the lab spatula (see figure 1).
- Next, lift the standby/volume cable set connector to remove it (see figure 2). Carefully slide the pointed tip of the spudger or spatula under the contact and lift it up. Be sure not to break any resistors soldered onto the logic board.
Step 10
- Take out the two Phillips screws and the bracket below them. There's another connection underneath. Keep the parts together in the same compartment of your organizer tray. 1 x 2.3 mm Phillips screw 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw
Step 11
- Take out those two Phillips screws holding the antenna to the frame. You've got 2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws to deal with!
Step 12
- Remove the two connection cables (see figures 1 and 2). Carefully place the pointed tip of the spudger or spatula below the contact and lift it up. Make sure you don’t break off any of the resistors that are soldered onto the logic board.
Step 13
- Alright, let’s get those five screws out that are keeping the logic board snug as a bug (check out figure 1 for a visual!).
- Three of these screws are the internal thread type, and the one next to the rear camera is a bit of a rebel – it’s not magnetic! You can use a flathead screwdriver or your trusty spatula to remove it. Remember to keep all the screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You’ve got 3 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screws and 2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws to keep track of!
- Now, gently lift the camera flash using that lab spatula (see figure 2).
Step 14
- Let's jazz things up a bit! Use your spudger like a magic wand to slightly lift the logic board (check out the groovy Figure 1) and give it a twirl around the longitudinal axis using the plastic tab (check out the cool cats in Figures 2 and 3).
- Now, on the flip side, set the antenna connector free by gently coaxing it off the plug head with your spudger (check out the smooth moves in Figure 3).
- With the finesse of a ninja, delicately detach the logic board.
Step 15
- Reconnect the WLAN antenna connector to the logic board (check out figure 1) and gently place the logic board back where it belongs (see figure 2). Use figure 4 to make sure your logic board is sitting pretty in its rightful spot.
- Next up, pop in the camera flash (see figure 3).
- Now, let’s secure everything by screwing in all five screws that keep the logic board snug as a bug (see figure 4). You’ve got 3 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screws and 2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws to keep track of!
Step 16
- Reconnect those two connection cables like a pro! Just make sure those connectors are snug and secure.
Step 17
- Alright, champ, let's get those two Phillips screws tightened up! They're holding the antenna to the frame. It's a 2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw situation, so grab your screwdriver and let's make this happen. Piece of cake!
Step 18
- Snap that bracket into place and secure it with those two Phillips screws – one 2.3 mm and one 1.5 mm. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!
Step 19
- Time to rock and roll! Reconnect the antenna connector and the standby/volume cable set connector (check out figure 1) like a pro!
- Now it's showtime! Link up the ribbon cable, slip on the cover, and screw it tight (check out figure 2). 1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw
Step 20
- Flip that plastic tab with the warning over and give it a good press onto the adhesive strip. This way, it won't be a pesky distraction while you're working your magic!
Step 21
- Alright, let's get this party started! Pop that battery back into your iPhone.
- Snap the battery connector back in place – easy peasy!
- Now, put the cover on and secure it with those screws. (Don't forget those little guys!) 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw (funnel head), 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw
Step 22
- Let's get those connectors reconnected, shall we? Check out figure 1 for a little visual aid! Just a quick heads up, the LCD connector can be a bit shy and might unlatch when you're hooking up the touchscreen connector. We're talking about the LCD, touchscreen, and that clever front camera/sensor/earpiece!
- Next, snap that battery connector back into place and secure that cover plate like it’s a top-secret item.
- Once everything's clicked in nicely, power up your iPhone! Give the LCD, touchscreen, proximity sensor, front camera, and earpiece a test drive to make sure they’re all in tip-top shape.
- Now let’s get that cover attached and screwed down (see figure 2). You’ll need 2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws and 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw (it’s not magnetic, just a little unique).
- Finally, gently fold down the screen with some TLC. Make sure the edge of the screen, where the cables are, fits in snuggly. Press down toward the Home button until everything's neatly in its frame. Check out figure 3 for a visual cue!
Step 23
- Alright, let’s get those two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure all snugged in! They’re just chilling next to the Lightning connector, one on each side. Don’t forget to keep those little guys safe in your organizer tray. You’ve got 2 x 3.6 mm pentalobe screws to keep an eye on!
Step 24
Heads up! When you pop that battery out, your iPhone might decide to throw a little time party and reset to 1:00 a.m. on 1/1/1970. If that happens, you might find it tricky to connect to the cellular network until you set the time right. So, let’s get that sorted!
- Get your iPhone in sync with iTunes or hop on a WLAN network and chill until the time is all set.
- Pop that SIM tray out with the SIM card inside, and then carefully slide it back in.
- Turn on airplane mode on your device, then switch it back off. Easy peasy!
0 Comment