DIY Guide to Replace iPhone 5c Back Cover – Step-by-Step

– Grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver; it’s your golden ticket to opening up the iPhone 5c.

– Next up, let’s tackle those two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure. They’re hanging out right next to the Lightning connector, one on each side. Make sure to stash those screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray—2 x 3.8 mm pentalobe screws are counting on you!

– Place your iPhone 5c on a clean, soft surface to keep that back looking fresh.

– To get that front panel off, grab a suction cup and a sturdy plastic pick. If your screen is in rough shape, a little packing tape can help hold it together.

– Position the suction cup over the Home button (or close by if that’s not possible) (check out figure 1). While you gently pull the screen up with the suction cup, slide the hard plastic pick between the plastic frame and the display frame, pressing down on the plastic frame. Keep using that pick to lift the screen (see figure 2). It might take a few tries, but you got this!

– Once you can lift the screen a tiny bit (see figure 3), carefully work your way around the edges until it’s loosened on both sides (see figure 4).

– First, let’s tackle those four Phillips screws on the shiny silver cover (check out figure 1). Make sure to toss those screws into the same compartment of your organizer tray—they’ll thank you later! Once you’ve got those out, lift the cover right off!

– Next, it’s time to disconnect the three connectors (figure 2). Be super gentle here! Use the spudger’s pointed tip just below the connector and lift it up with care. We’re talking about the touchscreen, LCD, and the front camera/sensor/earpiece/ambient microphone.

– Now, let’s test that new display! Temporarily connect the new display assembly and fire up your iPhone. Check if the LCD and touchscreen are working like champs. If you notice any black screens or stripes, double-check those connections—securely plugged in is the name of the game! If your display looks a bit yellow, don’t fret; just peek at the last step in this guide.

– Don’t forget to temporarily connect that new display assembly again!

– Start your iPhone up and see if everything’s working smoothly. Remember, if those connectors aren’t snug, you might see a black display or some funky stripes.

– And if you spot a slight yellow tint on your display, remember to check the last step in this guide for a fix!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those pesky Phillips screws off the battery connector (check out figure 1 for guidance). Once you’ve done that, gently lift off the cover using your spudger (figure 2 is your buddy here). Don’t forget to keep all those little parts cozy in the same compartment of your organizer tray—2 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws are counting on you!

– Now, let’s carefully lift the battery connector. Just slide the pointed tip of your ESD spudger right below the connector (figure 3 will show you how). If you’re feeling adventurous and don’t have a spudger, your fingernail can work too!

– First, let’s say goodbye to those two Phillips screws and the shiny silver cover. You’ll be removing 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw (smooth head) and 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

– Next, it’s time to disconnect that connector. Just take the pointed tip of your spudger and gently slide it just below the contact, then lift it up with care (check out figure 2 for some visual guidance).

– Finally, with a gentle touch, lift the camera out of your phone (take a peek at figure 3 to see how it’s done).

– Let’s kick things off by gently lifting the standby/volume cable set connector right off (check out figure 1). Use the pointed tip of your spudger or spatula to slide it just beneath the contact and give it a little lift.

– Next, it’s time to disconnect the Lightning connector’s ribbon cable (see figure 2). Just slide the flat end of the spatula slightly under the contact and give it a gentle lift. After that, carefully fold the cable over to keep things tidy.

– Finally, let’s carefully lift off the antenna connector using that trusty laboratory spatula of yours (see figure 3). Easy peasy!

– Feeling crafty? Grab your trusty SIM Tool or a paperclip to pop out that SIM card tray. Just press the tool into the tiny hole on the tray, and voilà, it’s out!

– Time to unscrew all six screws that are keeping the logic board cozy in its place!

– Three of these screws are a bit special with internal threads. You can use a flathead screwdriver or the trusty spatula to remove them. Don’t forget to stash those screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray—3 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screws, 2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws, and 1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw are all counting on you!

– Oh, and under that bright yellow circle, there’s a little copper contact that loves to play hide and seek. Keep an eye on it so it doesn’t wander off!

– Gently lift the logic board using your spudger (check out figure 1) and give it a little twist around the longitudinal axis by the plastic tab (figure 2 is your guide!).

– On the flip side, carefully disconnect the antenna connector by pulling it off the plug head with your spudger—sometimes it likes to stick around a bit.

– Now, with care, remove the logic board!

– Gently lift the black end of the sticker (check out figure 1) and then grab a pair of scissors to snip it right down the middle (see figure 2).

– Now, slowly pull half of the adhesive strip to the side to peel it off (see figures 3 and 4). Once you’ve done that, repeat the same for the other half and then go ahead and remove the battery.

– A little warmth goes a long way! Use a heat gun to gently warm up the battery from the bottom; this will make the glue much easier to deal with.

– Now it’s time to say goodbye to the battery! It’s stuck in there pretty well. Just slide the flat end of your spudger into the gap between the battery and the logic board, and with a careful lift, out it comes!

– Start by unscrewing the two little screws that keep the vibration motor and its support frame snug as a bug (check out figure 1 for a visual). You’ll need 1 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 1.1 mm Phillips screw for this task.

– Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift out the vibration motor (see figure 2).

– Time to get those three Phillips screws out of the volume and mute button bracket! This little bracket is stuck to the cable set like a stubborn friend. Remember to toss those screws into the same compartment of your organizer tray—trust us, your future self will thank you (check out figure 1 for a visual reminder)!

– First things first, let’s unscrew those two Phillips screws that are keeping the flash cover snug as a bug (check out figure 1 for reference). You’ll need 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.9 mm Phillips screw for this step.

– Once those screws are out, gently lift off the cover (figure 2) and raise the flash (figure 3). Make sure to toss those screws and cover into the same compartment of your organizer tray so they don’t get lost!

– First remove the sticker (see figure 1).

– Now remove the two Phillips screws (see figure 2).2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws

– The cable set is just a tad glued down. Gently pry it loose with your trusty laboratory spatula (take a peek at figures 1 to 3 for some visual help).

– Now you can go ahead and lift out that cable set!

– Take out the volume, mute, and standby buttons with care.

– First, grab your trusty laboratory spatula and gently pry off the Home button contact cable, which is just a little glued down (check out figure 1 for a visual!).

– Next, let’s tackle those three Phillips screws (see figure 2). Be sure to place those screws into a compartment of your organizer tray so you can easily find them later. You’ll need 2 x 2.7 mm Phillips screws and 1 x 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

– Now, give that speaker a little lift and gently take it out. You’re doing great!

– Slide your trusty laboratory spatula under the ribbon cable and gently wiggle it free from the base. Remember, it’s only glued down where the speaker used to be, so take it easy!

– Now, with care, pull that ribbon cable away. You’ve got this!

– First, let’s peel off that sneaky black sticker (check out figure 1).

– Next, grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the Phillips screw (see figure 2). It’s a 1 x 1.4 mm Phillips screw, so keep an eye on it!

– Now, take your trusty spudger (it’s your scratch-preventing hero) and gently slide it underneath the antenna ribbon cable to disconnect it from the back cover (see figure 3). Be sure to place both the cable and the cover in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You’re doing great!

– Unscrew that Phillips screw and gently take out the ejector lever. Don’t forget to toss both of these into the same cozy compartment of your organizer tray—1 x 2.0 mm Phillips screw is counting on you!

– Each of the four retaining brackets is held in place with two Phillips screws. Time to unscrew them! Make sure to toss those screws into the same compartment of your organizer tray—8 x 1.1 mm Phillips screws are counting on you!

– Remove the little copper contact (see figure 1).

– Now remove the black sticker. There’s another screw below it (see figure 2).

– Unscrew the Phillips screw and remove the connection piece. Put both of them in the same compartment of your organizer tray (see figure 3).1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw

– Place the connection piece back where it belongs and fasten it with a screw (check out figure 1 for a visual!). You’re using a 1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw here.

– Next, let’s slap on that black sticker (take a peek at figure 2).

– Lastly, don’t forget to tuck that little copper contact back under the connection piece (see figure 3 for guidance).

– Time to attach those four brackets! Grab your Phillips screws and secure them in place. You’ve got 8 x 1.1 mm Phillips screws waiting for your expert touch!

– Secure the ejector lever with that trusty Phillips screw. Remember, the top part of the ejector lever is hanging out to the left of the SIM card slot. You’re looking for 1 x 2.0 mm Phillips screw here!

– Give that SIM card tray a little test drive—can you push it in and out smoothly? Let’s make sure everything’s working just right!

– Reattach the antenna cable to the back cover and secure it with a screw (check out figure 1). Remember, it’s a 1 x 1.4 mm Phillips screw, so keep an eye on it!

– Now, don’t forget to slap that black sticker back on (see figure 2).

– Slide in the Lightning connector like a pro!

– Gently press the microphone’s rubber seal into that little black groove, ensuring the Lightning connector and audio jack snugly fit against the frame. You’ve got this!

– Place the speaker back in its original spot, just like it never left.

– Time to secure those Philips screws again (check out figure 1 for a visual guide). You’ll need 3 x 2.7 mm, 2 x 2.1 mm, and 2 x 3.2 mm Phillips screws, all ready to be fastened.

– Now, stick that Home button contact cable back on and give yourself a pat on the back (see figure 2 for reference).

– Reinsert the volume, mute, and standby buttons back to their original spots. They’re ready to get back to work!

– Make sure the rocker frame for the standby button is facing downward. It’s like giving it a little hug to keep it snug!

– First things first, pop that flash into its cozy little spot and secure the cover over it with those two Phillips screws. You’ll need 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.9 mm Phillips screw for this step!

– Reconnect the vibration switch and volume controller to their original spots (check out figure 1).

– When you’re popping in the vibration rocker switch, make sure it’s facing downwards (you’ll spot that orange stripe peeking out along the frame). This will help you hook up the button to the rocker switch just right.

– Place that little metal cover back in its original home (see figure 2).

– Now, let’s get that volume and mute button bracket screwed back in (see figure 3). You’ll need 3 x 1.7 mm Phillips screws for this part!

– Pop that vibration motor into place and secure it with the two Phillips screws that keep it and its support frame cozy together. You’re going to need 1 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 1.1 mm Phillips screw for this little task!

– Time to pop that battery back into your iPhone! Depending on how you got it out, you might need to stick on a couple of fresh adhesive+strips+iPhone+5c&crid=1TJIMMAJSUJUZ&sprefix=repair+tools%2Caps%2C165&linkCode=ll2&tag=salvationrepa-20&linkId=c486487cf454ce8edd6f5beefab4110f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl'>adhesive strips. Check out step 4 for the details!

– Reconnect that antenna connector to the logic board (check out figure 1) and slide it back into its cozy spot (see figure 2).

– Be sure to snugly fit the logic board between the two contacts near the camera. You’re doing great!

– Now fasten all six screws that hold the logic board in place.3 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screws2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw

– Reconnect the camera, place the cover back over it, and secure it with screws (see figure 2). You’ll need 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw (smooth head) and 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw for this step!

– Alright, let’s reattach that battery connector (check out figure 1 for a little visual help).

– Next up, pop on the cover and secure it with those screws (see figure 2). You’ll need 2 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws for this part!

– Time to get those connectors back in place (check out figure 1). Just a heads up, the touchscreen connector sometimes likes to play hide and seek when you plug in the LCD connector. Make sure they’re both snug and secure!

– Once those connectors are all set, fire up your iPhone! Give the LCD, touchscreen, proximity sensor, front camera, and earpiece a little test drive. If you see any funky stripes on the display or the touchscreen acts up, it’s a sign those connectors might need a little more love.

– Now, let’s wrap things up by attaching the cover and securing it in place (see figure 2). You’ll need: 1 x 3.2 mm Phillips screw (not magnetic), 2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws, and 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw. You’re almost done!

– Now, let’s gently fold down that screen like you’re tucking it in for a cozy night! Make sure that the upper edge, where all those cables are, clicks into place just right. Once that’s done, give the screen a little push towards the Home button until it’s snugly fit into the frame. You’re doing awesome!

– Now, let’s get those two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure all snug and secure. They’re 2 x 3.8 mm pentalobe screws, so treat them right!

– Time to sync up your iPhone with iTunes or hop onto a WLAN network and chill for a bit while the time gets sorted out.

– Pop out the SIM tray with the SIM card and then slide it back in like a pro.

– Turn on airplane mode for a moment, then switch it off again to refresh things up!