iPhone 5s – Removing the standby/volume control cable
Duration: 90 min.
Steps: 40 Steps
Welcome to the fun world of DIY repairs! In this guide, we’ll help you tackle the replacement of your iPhone 5s’ faulty standby/volume control cable like a pro. If your standby button is feeling lazy or has lost its click, or if the mute and volume buttons are just not responding, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get to work. Don't worry, we've got your back every step of the way! For those who might prefer a little extra help, you can always schedule a repair with us!
Step 1
- Grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver; it's your key to unlocking the secrets of the iPhone 5s!
- Now, let's get those two pentalobe screws out at the bottom of the enclosure. They’re chilling right next to the Lightning connector, one on each side. Make sure to stash those screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray to keep things neat and tidy. You’ll need 2 x 4.0 mm pentalobe screws for this little adventure!
Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: try not to lift the display more than two centimeters. We want to keep that Home button cable safe and sound below it!
- Place your iPhone 5s on a soft and clean surface to keep that back looking fresh and scratch-free!
- To pop off the front panel, grab your suction cup and hard plastic pick. If your screen is more cracked than a jigsaw puzzle, slap some packing tape over it for extra support.
- Stick the suction cup over the Home button (or just beside it if that's tricky). As you pull up on the screen with the suction cup, slide the hard plastic pick between the aluminum frame and the display frame and gently press down on the aluminum frame. Use the pick to lift the screen too (check out figure 2). It might take a few tries, but you've got this!
- Once you can lift the screen a few millimeters (see figure 3), carefully work your way around the edges until it's loosened on both sides (see figure 4).
Step 3
Just a heads-up! If the display is disconnected, keep it just a smidge above the surface. That Home button cable is the lifeline connecting your display to the Lightning connector, and we definitely don't want it to get snagged or torn!
- Let's start by removing that shiny silver cover over the Home button connector! Just take your trusty spudger and gently slide the pointed tip underneath the cover, then lift it out like a champ (check out figure 1 for a visual guide).
- Next up, it's time to disconnect the contact from the connector. Use your lab spatula or spudger to carefully pull it off. You've got this!
- With the cable now disconnected, you can lift the display at the Home button. Just a heads up, the LCD/touchscreen cables are still cozy with the logic board (don't worry, we’ll get to that in the next step).
Step 4
- First, let's tackle those four Phillips screws on the shiny silver cover (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Make sure to toss those screws into the same compartment of your organizer tray so they don’t play hide and seek later. Once that's done, gently lift the cover off like a pro!
- Now, it's time to disconnect three connectors (see figure 2). Take it slow and steady! Use the pointed tip of your spudger to slide just a bit below the contact and lift it up with care. We're talking about the Touchscreen, LCD, and the front camera/sensor/earpiece/ambient microphone here!
Step 5
- The camera is held in place with a handy rubber strap to keep it steady. Slide your lab spatula or a pair of tweezers underneath that strap and gently reveal the camera (check out figure 1 for guidance!).
- Next, let's disconnect the connector. Position the pointed tip of your spudger just below the contact and give it a little lift (figure 2 will show you how).
- Now, it's time to lift the camera right out of the phone (see figure 3 for a visual!).
Step 6
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those Phillips screws on the battery connector (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Once they’re gone, gently lift off the cover using your spudger (figure 2 is your buddy here). Make sure to keep all the parts cozy in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You’ll need 2 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws for this part of the adventure!
- Now, let’s carefully lift the battery connector! Insert the pointed tip of your spudger just below the connector (figure 3 will guide you). If you don’t have a spudger handy, your fingernail can step in as a trusty sidekick!
Step 7
- First, let's peel off that sticker hanging out next to the camera. There's a sneaky screw hiding just below it (check out figure 1).
- Next, gently lift the standby/volume cable set connector to set it free (see figure 2). Use the pointed tip of your spudger or spatula to slide underneath the contact and give it a little lift.
- Now, disconnect the Lightning connector's ribbon cable (see figure 3) by placing the flat end of the spudger just below the contact and lifting it up. Don't forget to fold the cable over carefully afterward.
- Lastly, use that trusty laboratory spatula to lift off the antenna connector (see figure 4) with utmost care.
Step 8
- Grab your SIM Tool or a trusty paperclip to pop out that SIM card tray! Just give a little push into the tiny hole on the tray, and voilà, it's out!
Step 9
- Alright, it's time to unscrew all six screws that are keeping the logic board snug as a bug in a rug!
- Four of these screws are the friendly internal thread type. Just a heads-up, the one hanging out next to the rear camera isn’t magnetic, so you'll need a flathead screwdriver or a spatula to help you out. Remember to toss those screws into the same compartment of your organizer tray for easy access later. Here’s what you’ll need: 3 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screws, 1 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screw (the non-magnetic one), and 2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws.
Step 10
- Alright, let’s tackle those two Phillips screws (check out figure 1) and the bracket hanging out below them (see figure 2) that connects the antenna to the frame. Make sure to keep all these parts cozy in the same compartment of your organizer tray. You’ll need 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw for this step!
Step 11
- Gently lift the logic board with your trusty spudger (check out figure 1) and give it a little twist around its longitudinal axis using the plastic tab (see figure 2).
- Flip it over and disconnect the antenna connector by carefully pulling it off the plug head with the spudger (see figure 3).
- Now, with all the finesse of a seasoned pro, carefully remove the logic board.
Step 12
- Alright, it's time to unscrew those seven Phillips screws! Make sure to sort them into different compartments of your organizer tray so you can easily find them later. Here's what you'll need: 1 x 3.0 mm Phillips screw (smooth head), 2 x 3.5 mm Phillips screws, 2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws, and 2 x 2.9 mm Phillips screws. Let's keep it organized!
Step 13
- Now, gently lift that speaker up like a champ, just like you see in figure 1!
- You'll notice a cheeky bit of the speaker is hiding under the logic board. Just give it a little twist to the side to free it up (check out figure 2 for a visual).
- Finally, go ahead and pull it out by hand. You've got this!
Step 14
- Slide your trusty laboratory spatula under the ribbon cable and gently peel it away from the base. It’s only stuck down where the speaker used to be, so it should come off easily!
- Now, with your spatula or spudger in hand, give the headphone jack (check out figure 2), the microphone (see figure 3), and the Lightning connector (see figure 4) a little nudge to loosen them up.
- Finally, use your fingers to delicately lift the ribbon cable away (see figure 5). You've got this!
Step 15
- Gently lift the black end of the sticker like you’re peeling a banana, then grab your scissors to snip it right down the middle (check out figures 1 to 3 for a little visual help).
- Now, slowly and steadily pull one half of the adhesive strip to the side. Keep those strips as flat as a pancake at the iPhone’s level (see figure 4). Repeat this for the other half and voilà, the battery is free to be removed (see figure 5)!
Step 16
- Alright, let’s take out those three screws that are keeping the vibration motor and its trusty support frame snug as a bug (check out figure 1 for a visual!). You’ll need: 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw (smooth head), 1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw, and another 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw.
- Now, gently lift out the vibration motor (see figure 2) and carefully detach it from the support frame that’s glued to it. You’re doing great!
Step 17
- Unscrew those three Phillips screws holding the volume and mute button bracket in place. This bracket is glued to the cable set, so be gentle! Don’t forget to place those screws in the same compartment of your organizer tray to keep everything tidy.
Step 18
- The cable set is gently stuck in place. Use your lab spatula to carefully wiggle it loose and set it free!
Step 19
- Alright, let’s tackle those two Phillips screws that are keeping the flash cover snug as a bug (check out figure 1). You’ll need 2 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws for this part!
- Once those screws are out, go ahead and lift off the cover (see figure 2) and gently lift the flash (see figure 3). Remember to stash those screws and cover in the same compartment of your organizer tray to keep everything nice and tidy!
Step 20
- First, let's say goodbye to that elastic cover (check out figure 1) and the foam sticker (see figure 2) – they're ready to go!
- Next up, grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the Phillips screw (see figure 3). That's one 1.9 mm Phillips screw out of the way!
- Now, gently detach the little antenna cable that's been glued on from the standby switch (see figure 4). Remember, all these bits and bobs should hang out together in the same container!
Step 21
- Give that metal switch a little twist to the side to pop it off. The standby button is glued on, so it might take a bit of finesse! No worries, you got this!
- Now, it's time to gently lift out the cable set and set it free!
Step 22
- Take the following parts from the old cable set and add them to the new one:Metal rail for the volume controllerMetal switch for the standby buttonVibration switch socketSoft sticker for the connector
- Metal rail for the volume controller
- Metal switch for the standby button
- Vibration switch socket
- Soft sticker for the connector
- You should solder the new cable set to the socket of the vibration switch. If you just glue it, the switch could come off of the socket. Take off the silver cover, remove the old plastic residue and solder the three bars of the new cable set to the socket.
Step 23
- Attach the switch's hook to the metal bar and slide that switch into the frame like a pro (check out figures 1 and 2 for a visual).
- Pop that little antenna cable back into its original spot (see figure 3) and secure the switch in place with a screw (see figure 4). Give that standby button a test press to make sure it's back in action! You'll need 1 x 1.9 mm Phillips screw for this.
- Now, let's add the soft black sticker and the elastic cover to finish things off (see figures 5 and 6).
Step 24
- Slide the flash into its snug little home and cap it off with the cover. Make sure that cover fits just right in the recess (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Now, let’s secure it all down by fastening those two Phillips screws (see figure 2). You’ll need 2 x 1.6 mm Phillips screws for this step!
Step 25
- Reconnect the vibration switch and volume controller in their original spots.
- When you're placing the vibration rocker switch, be sure it's facing downward (you'll spot the orange stripe along the frame). This little detail makes it a breeze to connect the switch to the rocker switch correctly.
- Now, let's secure that volume and mute button bracket by screwing it in!
Step 26
- Time to get that vibration motor in place! Secure it by tightening those three Phillips screws that hold both the support frame and the motor together. You'll need: 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw (smooth head), 1 x 2.5 mm Phillips screw, and another 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw. You've got this!
Step 27
- Get those new adhesive strips ready! Firmly press them onto the back cover before peeling off the film (check out figures 1 and 2 for guidance).
- Next up, it's time to pop that battery back into your iPhone (see figure 3).
- Now, give that black tear-off strip a little fold in the middle!
Step 28
- Now, let's slide that Lightning connector into place (check out figure 1 for a visual!).
- Give the microphone’s rubber seal a little push into the black groove, making sure the Lightning connector and audio jack fit snugly against the frame (see figure 2). After that, it's time to reconnect the ribbon cable!
Step 29
- First, give that speaker a little twist to the side and slide it back into its cozy original spot. Make sure it fits in snugly (check out figure 1 for guidance!).
- Next up, it’s time to fasten those Phillips screws back in place (see figure 2). You’ll need: 1 x 3.0 mm Phillips screw (smooth head), 2 x 3.5 mm Phillips screws, 2 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws, and 2 x 2.9 mm Phillips screws. Let’s keep everything nice and tidy!
- Finally, connect the antenna cable (figure 3) and the ribbon cable again. You’re almost there!
Step 30
- Reconnect the antenna connector to the logic board (check out figure 1) and gently place it back where it belongs (see figure 2). Use figure 3 to ensure your logic board is snug as a bug in its rightful spot!
Step 31
- Alright, let’s get that bracket in place to connect the antenna to the frame (check out figure 1 for a visual). Once it’s snug, go ahead and screw it in tight (see figure 2). You’ll need 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.4 mm Phillips screw for this step!
Step 32
- Now screw in all six screws that hold the logic board in place (see figure 1).3 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screws1 x 2.7 mm Phillips/flathead screw (not magnetic)2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Step 33
Hey there! When you're connecting that thin antenna connector, make sure it's snug as a bug in a rug. Gently press it into the slot and you're golden!
- Alright, let's get those connectors back in action! Reconnect the following: Antenna connector, Battery connector, Dock connector plug, and the Standby/volume cable set connector. When you're connecting that slender antenna connector, just make sure it fits snugly. Gently press it into the slot like a pro!
Step 34
- Now it's time to put that cover back on and secure it with those two 1.6 mm Phillips screws. You're almost there!
Step 35
- Reconnect the camera (check out figure 1) and reattach that trusty rubber strap. Just make sure the strap is sitting below the clip on the side (see figure 2). You've got this!
Step 36
Hey there! Just a little heads-up: if those connectors aren’t snugly in their spots, you might see some funky stripes on your display or find that parts of your touchscreen are feeling a bit shy. Let's keep everything connected and happy!
- Reattach those connectors like a boss (check out figure 1)! Just a heads-up: the touchscreen connector sometimes likes to play hide and seek when you connect the LCD connector. We’re talking about the Touchscreen, LCD, Front camera/sensor/earpiece/ambient microphone here!
- Once you’ve secured those connectors, fire up your iPhone! Make sure the LCD, touchscreen, proximity sensor, front camera, and earpiece are all ready to rock. If they’re not connected just right, you might see some funky stripes on the display or parts of the touchscreen might be feeling a bit shy.
- Now, let’s wrap things up by attaching the cover and screwing it in place (see figure 2). You’ll need 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw (not magnetic), 2 x 1.2 mm Phillips screws, and 1 x 1.7 mm Phillips screw (magnetic).
Step 37
- This part can be a bit tricky! Grab your tweezers or spudger to help position the cable set’s connector just right, then gently press it onto the connection using the spudger (check out figure 1 for a visual!).
- Once the connector is snugly in place, it's time to cover it up! Place the silver cover over the connector, and tweezers will be your best friend here (see figure 2). Finally, with the spudger, press down on the cover until you hear that satisfying click (see figure 3).
Step 38
- Alright, time to fold down that screen like a pro! Make sure the upper edge, where all those cables are hanging out, clicks into place just right. Now, gently push the screen towards the Home button until it’s snugly seated in the frame. You've got this!
Step 39
- Now, let’s get those two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure all snugged in! They’re the 4.0 mm pentalobe variety, just waiting for a twist to keep everything cozy inside.
Step 40
Heads up! When you pop out the battery, your iPhone goes on a little time travel adventure, landing at 1:00 a.m. on 1/1/1970. If you don't reset the time, you might find yourself having a tough time connecting to the cellular network. Let's get that time sorted!
- Time to sync up your iPhone with iTunes or hop onto a WLAN network and chill for a moment until that time gets back on track!
- Pop out the SIM tray with the SIM card and slide it back in like a pro.
- Flip on airplane mode for a sec, then switch it off again. Easy peasy!
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