DIY Guide to Replace iPhone 6 Back Cover

– Turn off your iPhone 6 completely to avoid damaging it during the repair.

– Press the standby button for about three seconds until the slider appears.

– Wipe it to completely shut down your iPhone. This can take about ten seconds.

– To get your iPhone 6 open, grab a pentalobe screwdriver and let’s get this party started!

– Flip your device over and check the bottom—there are two Pentalobe screws hanging out around the Lightning connector, just waiting to be removed. Take them out, and don’t forget to toss them into one of those handy spots on your magnetic pad. You’ve got this! 2 x 3.8 mm pentalobe screw

– Place your iPhone 6 on a soft, clean surface to keep the backcover looking fresh.

– Ready to lift the front screen? Grab a suction cup and a hard plastic plectrum. If your screen is cracked, tape it up before lifting to avoid any glass mishaps. Safety first!

– Position the suction cup on the display – aim for right above the Home button, or if that’s a no-go, next to it (check out figure 1). Now, use the ring on the suction cup to lift the screen. At the same time, gently press the plectrum between the aluminum and display frame, nudging the aluminum frame downwards. This nifty move lets you lift the screen with the plectrum (see figure 2). This step may need a few tries, so don’t give up!

– Once you’ve got a bit of wiggle room with the display, work your magic carefully on the sides until they’re free (like in figure 3). You’re on your way to a smoothly repaired iPhone 6!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those Phillips screws holding the battery connector in place (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Once you’ve got them out, gently lift off the cover (figure 2) and make sure to keep all those little parts together in one container. You’ll need to remove 1 x 3.2 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.3 mm Phillips screw.

– Now, it’s time to delicately disconnect the battery connector. Use the sharp end of your ESD spudger to gently slide underneath the plug (figure 3). No spudger? No problem! Your fingernail can do the trick too—just be gentle!

– The shiny silver cover is held in place by five Phillips screws. Go ahead and remove those (check out figure 1) and stash them in one section of your magnetic pad—trust me, you’ll thank yourself later! Once those screws are out, you can gently lift off the cover. Here’s the screw breakdown: 1 x 3.1 mm Phillips screw, 3 x 1.3 mm Phillips screws, and 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw.

– Now, feast your eyes on four overlapping connectors (see picture 2). Carefully loosen them in the order shown below. To do this, slide the pointed side of your spudger under the contact and give it a gentle lift. You’ve got this! Here’s what you’re working with: Front camera/sensor/earpiece/ambient microphone, Touch ID cable, LCD, and Touchscreen.

– Pull out the two screws that fix the vibration motor (see figure 1).2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw

– Now you can take out the vibration motor (see figure 2).

– The battery is snugly held in place by two adhesive strips. Use your spatula to gently pry the two black ends away from the battery (check out figure 1 for guidance).

– Next, it’s time to remove those adhesive strips. Take your time and keep them as flat as possible, right at the height of the iPhone (see figures 2 and 3 for a visual).

– Now, go ahead and lift the battery out of the iPhone 6.

– First, let’s find that sneaky upper screw hiding in the camera cover. Check out figure 1 for a little help!

– Next up, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those two Phillips screws from the camera cover (figure 2). You’ll be dealing with a 1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw and a 1 x 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

– Now, gently lift off the shiny silver camera cover (see figure 3).

– Time to disconnect the camera connector! Use the pointed tip of your spudger and slide it just below the contact, then give it a little lift (figure 4).

– Finally, lift the camera right out of the phone (figure 5). You’re doing great!

– First, let’s tackle those two Phillips screws holding the silver cover in place (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Make sure to stash both screws in the same container so they don’t go on an adventure without you. Once they’re out, gently lift the cover off (see figure 2). You’ll be dealing with a 1 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw and a 1 x 2.9 mm Phillips screw.

– Unplug the connectors for both the volume control cable and the standby cable. You’ve got this!

– Alright, let’s get that Wi-Fi cover off! Start by unscrewing the four Phillips screws holding it in place (check out figure 1 for a visual). Make sure to toss those screws into the same container so they don’t wander off on their own adventure. Once you’ve got those out, gently lift the cover off (see figure 2). You’ll be dealing with 2 x 2.1 mm Phillips screws, 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw, and 1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw. You’re doing great!

– Time to get those Phillips screws out! Remove both screws (check out figure 1) and the bracket right below them (see figure 2) that connects the antenna to the frame. Make sure to keep all the parts together in one container. You’ve got 2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws to deal with!

– Hey there, champ! Let’s get those connectors unplugged. Using the pointy end of your spudger, carefully disconnect the Lightning connector (see figure 1) and the antenna cable (see figure 2) from the logic board. It’s easier than it looks!

– To pop out the SIM card tray, grab your trusty SIM Tool or a paperclip. Just press the tool into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray, and voilà, it should slide right out!

– Alright, let’s get those five screws out that are keeping the logic board snug as a bug (check out figure 1 for a visual!). You’ll be dealing with: 1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw, 2 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws, 1 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw, and 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw.

– Just a heads up, the 1.3 mm Phillips screw (the green one) is holding an antenna in place (look for the arrow). So, when you take that screw out, make sure to remove the antenna too and keep it with the other screws.

– Now, with a gentle touch, you can lift the logic board out by hand (see figure 2). You’re doing great!

– First, let’s tackle that Phillips screw holding the silver LED cover in place (check out figure 1). You’ll be dealing with a 1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw.

– Now, gently lift the cover off to complete the removal (see figure 2).

– Remove the two screws that hold the standby button in place (see figure 1).2 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw

– Insert the laboratory spatula below the ribbon cable and carefully detach it from the base (see figure 2).

– Then use the spatula to detach the ambient microphone from the base (see figure 3).

– Now you can remove the standby cable (see figure 4).

– First, let’s tackle those three Phillips screws that are keeping the volume control cable snug as a bug. Grab your Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work (check out figure 1 for a visual). You’ll be dealing with 2 x 2.2 mm Phillips screws and 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw.

– Next, slide your trusty laboratory spatula underneath the ribbon cable and gently pry it away from the base (see figure 2).

– And just like that, you can now remove the volume control cable (see figure 3). Easy peasy!

– First up, let’s tackle those four Phillips screws that are keeping the speaker snug as a bug (check out figure 1 for a visual!). Make sure to stash those screws in different containers so they don’t go on a little adventure without you—trust me, future you will appreciate it! You’ll be dealing with 2 x 2.9 mm Phillips screws and 2 x 2.3 mm Phillips screws.

– Next, gently detach the tiny antenna connector using your trusty spudger (see figure 2). Just push that antenna cable off the speaker like a pro (see figure 3).

– And voilà! You can now remove the speaker (see figure 4).

– Time to get those two Phillips screws off the Lightning cover (check out figure 1 for a visual!). You’ve got this—just 2 x 3.0 mm Phillips screws to tackle!

– Once those screws are out, gently lift the Lightning cover to take it off (see figure 2). It’s like magic—you’re making progress!

– Alright, it’s time to tackle those seven Phillips screws! Make sure to pop them into different containers so you can easily spot them later. Here’s the breakdown: 2 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws, 2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws, 1 x 3.6 mm Phillips screw, and 2 x 3.0 mm Phillips screws. You’ve got this!

– First, let’s get that little black plastic piece out of the way (check out figure 1). Next, gently detach the microphone using your trusty laboratory spatula or spudger (see figure 2).

– Slide the laboratory spatula underneath the ribbon cable and carefully pry it away from the base (see figure 3). Remember, it’s only glued at the spot where the speaker was.

– Use your spatula or spudger to loosen up the headphone jack (see figure 4) and the Lightning connector (see figure 5).

– Now, keep going and carefully detach the Lightning connector from the base using the spatula or spudger (see figure 6).

– Finally, use your fingers or tweezers to gently remove the ribbon cable (see figure 7).

– Unscrew the Phillips screw and remove the ejector lever. Put both in the same container.1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw

– Unscrew the Phillips screw and gently lift off the bracket. Make sure to keep both the screw and the bracket cozy in the same container. You’ve got a 1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw to deal with!

– Each of the three retaining brackets is held in place by a duo of Phillips screws. Time to unscrew them! Make sure to toss those screws into the same container so they don’t go on a little adventure without you. You’ve got 6 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws to handle!

– Grab those three brackets and attach them to your shiny new back cover using the Phillips screws. You’ll need 6 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws for this step. Let’s make that back cover look fabulous!

– Attach the bracket using the Phillips screw.1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw

– Secure the ejector lever with a Phillips screw. Remember, the top part of the ejector lever should be positioned to the left of the SIM card slot. You’ll need 1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw for this.

– Give the SIM card tray a gentle push to see if it slides in and out smoothly.

– Alright, let’s slide that shiny new Lightning connector right back into its original spot (check out figure 1 for a visual!).

– Make sure the Lightning connector, audio jack, and microphone are all snugly fitted against the frame—just like a cozy puzzle piece (see figure 2).

– First, pop that little black plastic piece back over the microphone (check out figure 1 for a visual!).

– Next, let’s get those seven screws back in place to secure the Lightning connector. Here’s the breakdown: 2 x 1.8 mm Phillips screws, 2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screws, 1 x 3.6 mm Phillips screw, and 2 x 3.0 mm Phillips screws. You’ve got this!

– Now it’s time to pop that Lightning cover into place (check out figure 5) and secure it with a couple of screws (see figure 6). You’ll need 2 x 3.0 mm Phillips screws for this step. You’re almost there!

– Place the new speaker back in its original spot (check out figure 1). Make sure it’s snug and that the cables with the connectors are visible. Don’t forget to properly attach the antenna cable with the little metal ring to the speaker. Once everything looks good, you can tighten those Phillips screws back in (see figure 2).

– Time to get that volume control cable back where it belongs! Just slide it into its original spot and secure it with those three Phillips screws (check out figure 1 for a visual). You’ll need 2 x 2.2 mm Phillips screws and 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw. You’ve got this!

– Reinsert the standby cable into its original spot (check out figure 1) and secure it with those two Phillips screws (see figure 2). You’ve got 2 x 2.2 mm Phillips screws to work with!

– Now attach the silver cover and screw it in place (see figure 1).1 x 1.2 mm Phillips screw

– Put the logic board back in its original position (see figure 1) and screw it in place with the five Phillips screws (see figure 2).1 x 2.6 mm Phillips screw2 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw1 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw

– Make sure you put the antenna back under the 1.3 mm Phillips screw (green). (See arrow)

– Install the bracket that connects the antenna to the frame, and screw it in place.2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw

– Alright, it’s time to get that Wi-Fi cover back on! Start by securing it with those screws (check out figure 1 for a visual). You’ll need 2 x 2.1 mm Phillips screws, 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw, and 1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw. You’re doing awesome!

– Reconnect all those important connectors back to the logic board, and let’s get this show on the road!

– First up, plug in the antenna cable connector.

– Next, connect the Lightning connector.

– Don’t forget the volume control cable connector.

– And last but not least, reconnect the standby cable.

– Now install the silver cover (see figure 1) and screw it in place (see figure 2).1 x 2.2 mm Phillips screw1 x 2.9 mm Phillips screw

– Slide the camera back into its cozy spot and connect the camera’s cable (check out figure 1 for a visual!).

– Next, pop on the camera cover (see figure 2) and secure it with those screws (see figure 3). You’ll need 1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

– Finally, don’t forget to place that little black sticker back on (see figure 4).

– Now attach new adhesive strips on the bottom of the battery so that it does not move in the future.

– Insert the battery into iPhone, but don’t connect it with your device to avoid a possible short circuit.

– Put the vibration motor back in its original place (see figure 1).

– Fix the component with the appropriate screws (see figure 2).2 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw

– Now attach the LCD connector (see figure 1). This usually requires several attempts. So no worries if it does not work the first time. However, it is important that you are extremely careful in your attempts so that the plug cannot be bent.Front camera/sensor/earpiece/ambient microphoneTouch ID cableLCDTouchscreen

– When the connectors are attached securely, you can turn on your iPhone 6 again! Run a few functional tests and see if the LCD, touch screen, proximity sensor, front camera and earcup still work.If you see streaks on the display or the touchscreen is partially not working, the connectors are not connected properly.

– Put the cover on the connectors and fix it with the five screws (see figure 2).1 x 3.1 mm Phillips screw3 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw

– It’s time to reconnect that battery, so let’s get back in the groove!

– Slide that shiny silver cover back into place and secure it with the screws. You’ll need 1 x 3.2 mm Phillips screw and 1 x 2.3 mm Phillips screw to finish the job.

– You’re nearly there! Carefully put the display back into the housing. Be careful not to pinch any cables and make sure that the edge at the top of the screen really clicks into place.

– Now carefully push your screen on towards the home button so that it fits correctly in the frame.

– Grab those last two Pentalobe screws and pop them into the lower side of your device. You’ve got this—just 2 x 3.8 mm pentalobe screws to secure everything in place!

– Since the battery took a little break from your iPhone 6, it might have lost track of time and is now stuck on “1:00 am 1/1/1970”. This could cause some hiccups with your cellular connection, so let’s get that fixed up!