How to Replace iPhone 7 Plus Screen Tutorial
Duration: 30 min.
Steps: 22 Steps
In this guide, you will learn how to replace the defective display unit of your iPhone 7 Plus. This may be necessary if:the glass is shatteredthe glass has many scratchesthe 3D Touch no longer reacts to touchesthe LCD flickers or remains blackTaking the repair in your own hands saves money, protects the environment and makes you independent of repair shops. At the same time you get a better feeling for your mobile phone – how it is constructed and what technology is inside. Not everyone has had this experience.Before you start changing the display, you should back up all your data. It is also better to first discharge yourself statically, for example by touching a heater. Apart from that, we recommend that you make sure that your workplace is clean and well lit, where you can change the display in peace and quiet. By doing so you will optimize your repair success. In this guide, you will learn how to replace the defective display unit of your iPhone 7 Plus. This may be necessary if: Taking the repair in your own hands saves money, protects the environment and makes you independent of repair shops. At the same time you get a better feeling for your mobile phone – how it is constructed and what technology is inside. Not everyone has had this experience. Before you start changing the display, you should back up all your data. It is also better to first discharge yourself statically, for example by touching a heater. Apart from that, we recommend that you make sure that your workplace is clean and well lit, where you can change the display in peace and quiet. By doing so you will optimize your repair success.
Step 1
– First things first, power down your iPhone completely to keep it safe while you work your magic. Just press that Sleep/Wake button for about three seconds until the ‘power off’ slider makes its grand appearance.
– Now, give that slider a good swipe from left to right. Your iPhone will gracefully shut down in about ten seconds, and you’ll be one step closer to a fabulous fix!
Step 2
2 × 3,3 mm Pentalobe
– Grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver (PL1) because it’s time to get into that iPhone 7 Plus!
– Carefully unscrew the two pentalobe screws located at the bottom of the enclosure, right by the Lightning connector. Make sure to place those screws on your magnetic pad so they don’t go wandering off!
Step 3
If you need to, give the outer edges of the display a little warmth a few times. Just a friendly reminder that the display’s flex cables are located on the side with the Sleep/Wake button. Also, keep in mind that the display is secured at the edge of the earpiece.
– Keep your iPhone 7’s back safe and sound by laying it on a soft, clean surface—no scratches allowed!
– To get that front screen lifted, you’ll need a suction cup, a sturdy plastic pick, and a heat gun. If the screen is in rough shape, slap some packing tape over it first to keep things in check.
– The screen is glued on tighter than a secret! Use your heat gun to warm the edges of the display to about 60°C to loosen that adhesive.
– Place the suction cup over the Home button (or close to it). While you gently pull up with the suction cup, slide that plastic pick between the aluminum frame and the display, pressing down on the frame. Since the display is glued, you’ll need to work your way around the iPhone. Just be careful not to go too deep near the Sleep/Wake button side—those flex cables are sensitive!
– Now, gently nudge the display towards the Lightning connector until the tabs pop out of the aluminum frame.
– Rest the display on the aluminum frame, being careful not to stretch those flex cables too much!
Step 4
1 × 2,4 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
Battery Connector
Before diving into the repair, let’s disconnect that battery contact! This little step helps you dodge short circuits and keeps your device from accidentally turning on while you’re working your magic.
– First, grab your Y-Type screwdriver (Y000) and remove those three Y-Type screws. Once they’re out, gently lift off the bracket plate and keep all the little pieces together in the cozy box of your magnetic pad.
– Next up, it’s time to delicately pry off the battery connector. Just slide a spudger underneath it with care. No spudger? No worries! Your trusty fingernail will do the trick too.
Step 6
1 × 1,3 mm Y-Type
2 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
Facetime Connector
– First, grab your Y-Type screwdriver (Y000) and remove those three Y-Type screws. Once they’re out, gently lift off the cover and make sure to keep all those little parts cozy in the magnetic pad box.
– Next, take your spudger and carefully disconnect the FaceTime connector from the circuit board. You’ve got this!
– Now, it’s time to fully detach the display. Go ahead and pull it off with confidence!
Step 7
1 × 2,7 mm Phillips-Schraube
2 × 1,7 mm Phillips-Schraube
2 × 2,1 mm Phillips-Schraube
Heads up! The screws you’re dealing with are like a mixed bag of candy – they come in different lengths. If you mix them up, you might end up giving your display a bit of a rough time during assembly.
– The earpiece is hiding on the back of the display unit. Time to channel your inner detective! Remove the five Phillips screws securing the bracket over the earpiece. And hey, keep all those little bits together in the cozy box of your magnetic pad—no screw left behind!
– Now, the earpiece is also playing peek-a-boo under the front camera’s flex cable. Just give that cable a gentle nudge to the side, and voilà! You can smoothly lift out the earpiece.
Step 8
Give that FaceTime cable a little love with the heat gun to loosen up the glue. It’ll make your job a whole lot easier!
– First, gently lift out those sensors like you’re unveiling a surprise!
– Next, slide your spudger or spatula right under the flex cable near the ambient microphone. It’s glued down tighter than your favorite secret, so be patient!
– Now it’s time to lift out the cable set with confidence!
Step 9
3 × 1,2 mm Y-Type-Schraube
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type-Schraube
The cable set tends to be stuck on there pretty well. Give it some love and patience to get it loose!
– First, let’s tackle those four Y-type screws! Once they’re out, gently lift off the bracket plate and make sure to keep everything cozy in the same box of your magnetic pad.
– Next up, grab your spudger and carefully disconnect that Home button cable. If it’s being a bit stubborn, just press it against the display since the connector isn’t screwed in.
– Now, take your ESD tweezers and carefully slide them under the cable set to pry it loose. Be gentle, we want to keep everything intact!
– If the glue is giving you a hard time, feel free to use a heat gun to soften it up a bit. A little warmth goes a long way!
Step 10
5 × 1,1 mm Y-Type-Schraube
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips-Schraube
– First, let’s peel off that display contact sticker from the metal panel—easy does it!
– Next up, grab your trusty Y-type screwdriver and remove those five Y-type screws along with one Phillips screw that’s holding the metal panel in place.
– Now, gently lift off the metal panel, but watch out for those display connectors—let’s keep them safe and sound!
Step 11
Front camera bracket
Sensor bracket
Prox sensor sticker
– Not all available displays have the same features. If necessary, you’ll have to take some of the following parts from your old display before installing the new screen:Front camera bracket (lightly glued in place)Sensor bracket (lightly glued in place)
– Front camera bracket (lightly glued in place)
– Sensor bracket (lightly glued in place)
– Peel the protective film off the new display and remove the gaskets.
Step 12
5 × 1,1 mm Y-Type-Schraube
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips-Schraube
Hold your horses on tightening those screws! Make sure all of them are in their threads first so you can adjust the back panel just right.
– Guide those connection cables through the nifty opening on the back panel!
– Next up, secure that back panel in place with the screws—let’s keep everything snug!
– Finally, use that handy sticker to reattach the display cable like a pro.
Step 13
3 × 1,2 mm Y-Type-Schraube
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type-Schraube
– Slide that Home button right into the front opening of your display like it’s finding its cozy spot.
– Gently press the flex cable against the display and give that connector a friendly connection.
– Now, grab the bracket plate and secure it in place—let’s keep everything snug and happy!
Step 14
Position that proximity sensor like a pro! If it’s not in the right spot, it might just decide to play hard to get.
– Stick that FaceTime cable back where it belongs, like it never left!
– Pop in the microphone—it’s time for some sound magic!
– Now, gently place those sensors back in their cozy spots, just like puzzle pieces fitting together.
Step 15
2 × 2,1 mm Phillips-Schraube
2 × 1,7 mm Phillips-Schraube
1 × 2,7 mm Phillips-Schraube
Don’t go overboard tightening those screws! A gentle touch is all you need, or you might just end up making a surprise hole in the front paint.
– Slide the earpiece back into its cozy spot beneath the flex cable, nestled between the FaceTime camera and the sensors. Then, pop that bracket plate back in place.
– Next, secure the bracket plate with five Phillips screws. Make sure the front camera is sitting pretty and centered on the display—adjust it if it needs a little nudge!
Step 16
Just a heads up! Even with a shiny new frame sticker, your iPhone’s water resistance might not be quite the same as it used to be!
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to pay attention to how you place that frame sticker. The corners are a bit different and will guide you along the way!
– To ensure that the new frame sticker sticks like it should, start by clearing away any leftover glue and dirt from the old sticker.
– Peel off the first backing film.
– Carefully align it on one side and give it a gentle press.
– Now, take off the second piece of film.
Step 17
Facetime Connector
2 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,3 mm Y-Type
– Hold that display upright on the frame and connect the FaceTime connector to the logic board like a pro!
– Rest the display on the right-hand edge of the frame, giving it a comfy spot to chill.
– Pop the bracket plate of the FaceTime connector back into the iPhone and secure it with those three Phillips screws—let’s keep everything snug!
Step 18
Display Connector
Home Button Connector
– It’s time to connect the Home button and display cables to the logic board! Just slide those cables in like you’re giving them a warm hug.
Step 19
Battery Connector
3 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 2,4 mm Y-Type
– First, let’s plug that battery cable back in—just like reconnecting with an old friend!
– Now, place the bracket plate back into the iPhone and secure it with those four Y-type screws. You’ve got this!
Step 20
Your phone has lost its water shield! To get that water protection back in action, you’ll need to reglue the display. Let’s make it splash-proof again!
– Start by placing the display on the right edge of the frame and gently fold it onto your iPhone like a cozy blanket.
– Next, slide that display towards the standby button so the tabs can click into place, just like a puzzle piece fitting in.
– Finally, give the display a firm press all around the frame to secure it snugly in its new home.
Step 21
2 × 3,3 mm Pentalobe
– Time to get those pentalobe screws in place! Grab your trusty screwdriver and fasten those two screws snugly on either side of the Lightning connector. You’ve got this!
Step 22
Heads up! When you pop out that battery, your iPhone’s clock might just decide to party like it’s 1970, resetting to 1:00 a.m. on 1/1/1970. If you don’t set the time back, you might have a tough time connecting to the cellular network. So, let’s keep that time in check!
– Synchronize your iPhone with iTunes or connect to a WiFi network and wait until the time is set.
– The time won’t be set automatically, unless you enable this feature in the settings.
– Settings > General > Date & Time > Set Automatically
– Remove the SIM tray with the SIM card and reinsert it.
– Activate airplane mode on the device and then deactivate airplane mode.
– Settings > Airplane Mode
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