DIY Guide to Replace Back Cover on iPhone 8 Plus
Duration: 90 min.
Steps: 49 Steps
Welcome to your DIY adventure! In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps to swap out that tired back cover on your iPhone 8 Plus. Whether your cover is looking a bit warped or scratched, or you just fancy a new color, we’ve got you covered. We’ll guide you through replacing the entire frame and rear glass housing. You’ll be removing all the bits and bobs from the old case and fitting them into your shiny new back cover. Ready? Let’s get started!
Step 1
– First things first, power down your iPhone completely to keep it safe during the repair. Just press the Sleep/Wake button for about three seconds until you see the ‘power off’ slider pop up.
– Swipe that slider from left to right, and voilà! Your iPhone will shut down completely, which should take around ten seconds. Easy peasy!
Step 2
2 × 3,4mm Pentalob
– Unscrew the two pentalobe screws located at the bottom of the enclosure, right next to the Lightning connector. Make sure to keep those little screws safe by placing them in the same section of your magnetic pad. You’ve got this!
Step 3
– Start by placing your iPhone 8 Plus on a soft, clean surface to keep that sleek back from getting scratched.
– To lift the front panel, grab a suction cup, a hard plastic pick, and a heat gun. If your screen’s looking like a puzzle, cover the cracks with packing tape before diving in.
– The screen is glued to the frame, so warm up those outer edges with a heat gun until they reach about 60°C (140°F).
– Pop the suction cup over the Home button (if you can) or right next to it. While you gently lift the screen with the suction cup, slide that hard plastic pick between the aluminum frame and the display frame, pressing down on the aluminum frame. Remember, the display is glued on, so you’ll want to slide the pick all around the iPhone. Just be careful not to poke too deep near the Sleep/Wake button to avoid damaging those delicate flex cables.
– Next, use the pick to pry the display away so the tabs can escape from the aluminum frame. Now you can fold the display to the side.
– Rest the display against something stable to keep those sensitive flex cables from bending too much.
If you find yourself in a bit of a sticky situation, don’t sweat it! Just warm up the edges of the display a couple of times. Remember, the flex cables for the display are chilling out right next to the Sleep/Wake button, so be careful! And a heads up: once you pop open that iPhone 8, it waves goodbye to its warranty for dust and spray water protection (IP 67 rating).
Step 4
2 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 1,4 mm Phillips
1 × 2,6 mm Phillips
Before diving into your repair journey, make sure to disconnect the battery contact! This little step helps dodge any short circuits and keeps your device from accidentally waking up during the process. Safety first, right?
– Grab that Phillips screwdriver (Ph00) and start unscrewing those Phillips screws. Once they’re out, gently lift off the cover. Remember to keep all those little parts cozy in the same section of your magnetic pad!
– Now, for the battery contact! Use a plastic spudger to carefully lift it off by sliding it just below the connector. Easy does it!
Step 5
Display Connector
Home Button Connector
Step 6
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 0,9 mm Y-Type
– Grab your trusty Y-Type screwdriver (Y000) and let’s get those two Y-Type screws out of the way! Once they’re gone, gently lift off that cover. Remember to keep all the little parts cozy in the same section of your magnetic pad.
– Next up, take your spudger and carefully disconnect the FaceTime contact from the PCB. You’re doing great!
– Now, it’s time to fully remove the display. You’ve got this!
Step 7
2 × 1,3 mm Y-Type
1 × 2,6 mm Standoff
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
Guess what? The internal thread screw just doesn’t do the magnetic dance! So, keep that in mind while you tackle your repair. You’ve got this!
– First, let’s tackle those two Y-type screws holding the bracket plate for the iSight camera connectors. Once they’re out, you can easily lift off the bracket plate.
– Next, grab your spudger and gently slide it under the camera connectors. A little prying will do the trick to disconnect them. Nice and easy!
– Now, it’s time to unscrew the two screws from the camera bracket and take that off as well.
– Finally, use your spudger to nudge the camera unit out of its cozy frame and voilà! You’ve successfully removed the camera unit.
Step 8
1 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 2,9 mm Phillips
Standby / Volume Connector
– First, let’s tackle those two Phillips screws holding the bracket plate in place. They may be different lengths, but no worries—you can toss them all into the same cozy spot on your magnetic mat!
– Now, gently lift off that bracket plate and set it aside.
– Next up, disconnect the contact from the logic board with care. You’ve got this!
Step 9
1 × 1,2 mm Phillips
2 × 1,1 mm Phillips
1 × 2,9 mm Phillips
2 × 1,0 mm Phillips-Schraube
Looks like one of those screws decided to take a detour and is snugly seated sideways in the back cover! Just a little heads up as you dive into your repair journey.
– First, let’s get those Phillips screws off the plastic bracket. Make sure to keep them all in the same cozy spot!
– Next up, gently lift off the bracket.
– Surprise! There are two more Phillips screws hiding under the bracket, holding a connection piece snugly in place. Time to remove those screws too!
– Now, go ahead and take out that connection piece.
Step 10
1 × 1,2 mm Phillips
Antenna Connector
– First, let’s disconnect that connector from the board, shall we?
– Next up, remove the Phillips screw that’s playing hide and seek sideways in the back cover.
– The antenna is just a little shy, being lightly glued in place. Give it a gentle warm-up with some hot air to help it feel more comfortable, or carefully slide a steel spatula underneath the cable to help it along.
– And now, you can gently take out the antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 11
– You can grab your trusty SIM tool or a regular paperclip to pop out that SIM card tray! Just press the SIM tool into the tiny hole on the tray and give it a little push to release it. Easy as pie!
Step 12
Wireless Charging Connector
Lightning Connector
Antenna Connector
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle those three connectors loose on the battery side of the logic board. You got this!
Step 13
1 × 2,5 mm Standoff
2 × 1,7 mm Phillips
1 × 2,2 mm Standoff
1 × 2,1 mm Standoff
Right next to the two holes for the iSight camera, there’s a nifty little plastic holder for a screw, snugly sitting on top of the logic board. Keep an eye on it!
– Unscrew all screws that hold the logic board in place. You
can unscrew the internal thread screws using a special
screwdriver or a regular, thin slotted screwdriver.
– Now you can carefully remove the logic board by hand.
Step 14
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,3 mm Phillips
1 × 2,5 mm Phillips
2 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 2,3 mm Phillips
– First, let’s tackle that Y-type screw and the two Phillips screws holding the silver antenna bracket plate in place. Once they’re out, you can gently lift that plate away!
– Next, with your trusty spudger in hand, carefully disconnect the coaxial antenna flex cable. You’re doing great!
– Now, let’s get those Phillips screws that are keeping the speaker snug and secure. Remember, they come in different lengths, so keep them organized to avoid any mix-ups when it’s time to reinstall the speaker.
– And just like that, you can now remove the speaker along with the antenna flex cable. Keep up the awesome work!
Step 15
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide it under the Taptic Engine’s connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!
– Next, it’s time to unscrew the internal thread screw along with the Phillips screws that are holding the Taptic Engine in place. Just a little twist and you’re golden!
– Now, with everything unscrewed, carefully lift out the Taptic Engine and give it a warm welcome to its new home!
Step 16
– Get your tweezers or a trusty spatula ready to peel off those black tabs. Underneath, you’ll find the white adhesive strips just waiting to be freed!
– Now, gently pull out those adhesive strips, taking your time. Keep them nice and flat as you go to make it easier on yourself!
– Once you’ve successfully removed all the adhesive strips, you’re all set to take out the battery. You’ve got this!
Hold onto that battery and your iPhone like a pro while you gently pull out the last adhesive strip. We don’t want that battery taking an unexpected leap out of the device!
Uh-oh! If one of those adhesive strips decides to go rogue and tears, no need to panic! Just gently coax the battery out using a wide Spudger. Remember, treat that battery like a delicate flower and try to bend it as little as possible!
Step 17
1 × 1.6 mm Phillips
1 × 3.1 mm Phillips
– Unscrew the two screws on the barometric vent.
– Carefully pull off the barometric vent using tweezers. It is slightly glued on.
Step 18
2 × 1.0 mm Phillips
2 × 2.2 mm Phillips
2 × 1.2 mm Phillips
1 × 2.4 mm Phillips
Keep those screws organized on your magnetic pad so you can easily spot them later. It’s like giving them a VIP section just for them—makes your repair journey a whole lot smoother!
– Time to tackle those pesky Phillips screws holding the Lightning connector cable in place! Unscrew them with care, and keep them safe in your magnetic pad—let’s make sure they don’t get lost on this adventure!
Step 19
6 × 2.1 mm Phillips
1 × 2.0 mm Phillips
Hey there! That flex cable is really sticking around, but don’t worry! With a little heat and some gentle nudging, you’ll have it free in no time. Just take it slow and steady!
– Unscrew the two little bracket plates that hold the flex cable snugly to both sides of the frame. Each of these plates is secured with three tiny screws, so keep an eye on them!
– Next up, find that last pesky screw on the bracket plate of the flash and take off the bracket plate. You’re almost there!
– Now, let’s warm things up! Heat the flex cable gently and use the flat end of your spatula to carefully peel it away from the frame. It’s glued on tight, so take your time.
– With a gentle touch, use your fingers or tweezers to remove the flex cable. If it’s a bit stubborn, the spatula or spudger can help loosen the flash and the golden ambient microphone.
Step 20
9 × 1.6 mm Phillips
– Each of the three retaining brackets is held in place by two Phillips screws. Go ahead and unscrew them, and make sure to keep those little guys safe in the same box!
– Don’t forget to snag that small waterproofing pin from the SIM card tray before you move on. You’ll want to reuse it!
Step 21
1 × 1.3 mm Phillips
– First, let’s get that Phillips screw out of its cozy spot. It’s nestled in sideways, so give it a gentle twist to release it.
– Now, time to say goodbye to the rail! Use a flat tool to gently unstick it from its resting place. You’ve got this!
Step 22
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull that button bracket out to the side like you’re opening a treasure chest.
– Now, give that button bracket a little nudge upwards on one side while pushing it out on the other side. Teamwork makes the dream work!
– Time to push those buttons out from the inside, just like you’re popping popcorn!
– Repeat the same fun steps for the other buttons. You’re doing awesome!
Step 23
So, if you’re tossing that old back cover, no worries about scratches! But if you’re keeping it, grab a plastic tool like the iPlastix to protect that paint hiding beneath the coil. While this guide features the iPhone 8, the steps are just as smooth for the iPhone 8 Plus!
– The sticker is stuck around the edges, so let’s give it a little warmth first! Heat those edges up and then slide a flat tool all the way around the coil like you’re wrapping a present.
– Once you’ve freed up those edges, slide your tool all the way underneath the coil. It should pop out like magic! If it’s being a little stubborn, just give it another warm-up.
– And there you go! Out it comes, nice and easy.
Step 24
Rubber gasket
SIM tray pin
– Get ready to deck out that new back cover! Start by sticking on all the necessary parts, like those snazzy stickers or handy plastic holders.
– Oh, and don’t forget to grab that little plastic pin from the SIM tray! You’ll want to pop it into the new back cover for a perfect fit.
Step 25
– Stick that charging coil onto the back cover, making sure it’s as flat as a pancake!
– Get it positioned just right so you can connect it to the logic board later without any fuss.
– If the glue seems a bit shy, warm it up a tad and give it a gentle press to help it stick.
Step 26
– Press those buttons in from the outside like you mean it!
– Start by sliding the button bracket in from the side and then give it a little twist downwards.
– Grab your tweezers and gently install the bracket for the buttons. It might take a bit of finesse, but you’ve got this!
Step 27
1 × 1.3 mm Phillips
– Reposition the rail just like it was before and secure it with that trusty Phillips screw. You’ve got this!
Step 28
9 × 1.6 mm Phillips
– Pop that little waterproofing pin from the SIM card tray right where it belongs!
– Now, let’s get those retaining brackets in place! Secure each one with two Phillips screws, and remember to check that they’re facing the right way. You’re nailing this!
Step 29
6 × 2.1 mm Phillips
1 × 2.0 mm Phillips
Keep that cable chill and lying flat—no bending allowed! Let’s keep everything cozy as you work.
Hey there! If you’re giving your back cover a fresh new vibe, don’t forget to swap out the aluminum rocker switch too—it’s like a matching accessory for your phone!
– Alright, let’s get that standby/volume control cable installed in its rightful spot! Make sure the microphone and flash are snug as a bug in a rug. Tighten it up with those Phillips screws.
– Once you’ve got those screws nice and tight, give those buttons a little test! Check how sensitive they are to your touch and adjust the screws if they need a little extra love.
– Now, give that entire cable a firm press onto the chassis—let’s make sure it’s all secure and ready to go!
Step 30
2 × 1.0 mm Phillips
2 × 2.2 mm Phillips
2 × 1.2 mm Phillips
1 × 2.4 mm Phillips
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to make sure you don’t leave out that bracket plate—it’s an important piece of the puzzle!
– Carefully place the Lightning connector’s flex cable back in its original spot and give it a gentle press onto the back cover to ensure it’s lying flat.
– Secure all the screws that keep the Lightning connector snug and don’t forget about the bracket plate—it’s important!
– Gently press both microphones back onto the frame, making sure they’re seated properly.
Step 31
1 × 1.6 mm Phillips
1 × 3.1 mm Phillips
– Pop that barometric vent back into its cozy spot!
– Secure it with the two screws and you’re all set!
Step 32
Battery Connector
Get those adhesive strips ready! Place them in the device with the protective films still on, making sure they’re pointing in the right direction. Let’s stick to the plan!
When you’re sticking on those adhesive strips, make sure to leave a little breathing room on both sides so you can fold those tabs over without a hitch!
– First, peel off that big blue protective film and attach those adhesive strips to the bottom of the battery. Keep them nice and straight!
– Now flip the battery over and carefully take off the small blue and pink protective films from the tabs.
– Fold those tabs around and secure them to the top of the battery like a pro.
– Finally, remove the large pink protective films from the tabs. You’re doing great!
Step 33
Battery Connector
Make sure to leave a little breathing room around the battery! Give it some space to breathe and chill out on all sides. We want it to feel comfy in its new home!
– Pop that battery back into its cozy home! Check out the battery connector to ensure everything is lined up just right.
– If you slipped the logic board into the case earlier, it’s time to gently lift it out again.
Step 34
– Nestle the Taptic Engine back snugly between the battery and the Lightning connector.
– Secure the Taptic Engine in place with those trusty screws once more.
– Reconnect the Taptic Engine’s contact to the Lightning connector—let’s get that connection back in action!
Step 35
2 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 2,3 mm Phillips
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,3 mm Phillips
1 × 2,5 mm Phillips
– First, gently place the speaker back where it belongs and give it a little nudge towards the bottom edge of the iPhone.
– Make sure the antenna flex cable is snugly nestled between the battery and the speaker—it’s like a cozy sandwich!
– Time to secure the speaker in place with those Phillips screws. You’ve got this!
– Carefully position the coaxial antenna connector over its socket and press down gently to make the connection.
– Reinsert the shiny silver plate and secure it using the Y-type screw along with the two Phillips screws. Almost there!
Step 36
1 × 2,5 mm Standoff
2 × 1,7 mm Phillips
1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
1 × 2,1 mm Standoff
– Slide the logic board back into its original spot, making sure that the camera bracket is comfortably resting on top of it.
– Secure the logic board in place with those trusty Phillips screws. You’ve got this!
Step 37
Wireless charging connector
Lightning connector
Antenna connector
Watch out for those connectors! If you’re not careful, those tiny pins might just decide to take a detour and get bent. Keep your focus and you’ll be golden!
– Reconnect the logic board connectors like a pro! You’ll hear a satisfying click as they lock into place, just like a high-five for your hard work!
Step 38
If you’re having a bit of a struggle getting it in, take a moment to double-check the logic board’s position. A little adjustment can make all the difference!
– Time to slide that SIM card tray back into its cozy little slot! Just give it a gentle push, and it should fit right in like it belongs there.
Step 39
1 × 1,2 mm Phillips
Antenna Connector
– Time to give that Wi-Fi antenna a cozy home! Place it back where it originally lived.
– Next, grab your Phillips screwdriver and secure it in place with a friendly twist.
– Now, give it a gentle press so the glue can make a solid bond.
– Finally, connect the little connector and you’re all set!
Step 40
2 × 1,0 mm Phillips
1 × 1,2 mm Phillips
2 × 1,1 mm Phillips
1 × 2,9 mm Phillips
– Carefully place that connection piece back where it belongs and tighten it down with those Phillips screws.
– Now, let’s bring back that plastic bracket and secure it with the Phillips screws.
Step 41
Standby / Volume Connector
1 × 1,2 mm Phillips-Schraube
1 × 2,9 mm Phillips-Schraube
– Reconnect that standby/volume control cable like a pro!
– Now, pop the bracket plate back onto the connector and secure it with those two Phillips screws. You’re almost there!
Step 42
1 × 2,6 mm Standoff
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
2 × 1,3 mm Y-Type
– Carefully slide the camera unit back into its snug little holder and give it a gentle press to secure it in place.
– Next, grab that camera bracket plate and reattach it with a few screws to keep everything nice and tight.
– Connect the two connectors from the camera, making sure they’re snug as a bug!
– Finally, place the bracket plate back over the contacts and screw it in for good measure. You’re doing awesome!
Step 43
A frame sticker on your iPhone will keep the dust bunnies and light splashes at bay, but don’t expect it to be a full-on submarine! Keep that in mind while you enjoy your newly refreshed device.
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to ensure the frame sticker is aligned just right. Each corner has its own unique shape to help you get it spot on!
– To ensure that your new frame sticker sticks like a champ, make sure to wipe away any pesky glue residue and dirt.
– Peel off the first protective film layer of the frame sticker.
– Carefully line up the frame sticker on one edge and attach it little by little. Make sure it’s even, then press it down firmly.
– Now, it’s time to remove those remaining layers of film.
Step 44
Facetime connector
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 0,9 mm Y-Type
– Gently lay the display onto the frame and connect the FaceTime contact to the logic board like a pro!
– Now, pop the cover back on the FaceTime contact and secure it with those three Phillips screws. You’ve got this!
Step 45
Display Connector
Home Button Connector
– Link up the two buddies—the Home button contact and the display contact—right to the logic board. It’s like a little reunion party for your phone’s components!
Step 46
Battery Connector
2 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 1,3 mm Phillips
1 × 2,6 mm Phillips
– Reconnect the battery contact with care, making sure it’s snug and secure!
– Now, gently place that metal cover back onto your iPhone and fasten it down with those screws to keep everything in place. You’re almost there!
Step 47
Why not get a little creative? You can use some plastic clamps or even slip your device between two books to help that glue bond like a champ!
Step 48
2 × 3,4mm Pentalobe
– Screw in those two pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector, securing them into the enclosure like a pro!
Step 49
– First up, let’s get your iPhone in sync! Connect it to iTunes or hop onto a WiFi network and just chill until the time gets set. Remember, the time won’t magically adjust unless you turn on the ‘Set Automatically’ feature in your settings. Just head to Settings > General > Date & Time > Set Automatically.
– Next, gently pop out the SIM tray along with the SIM card and then slide it back in like a pro!
– Now, let’s play with airplane mode! Activate it on your device, then flip it off again. You can find this in Settings > Airplane Mode.
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