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iPhone SE – Replacing the standby/volume control cable

Duration: 120 min.
Steps: 40 Steps

Hey there! Ready to tackle the challenge of replacing your iPhone SE’s faulty standby/volume control cable? You’ve come to the right place! If your volume rocker switch is feeling a bit lazy or has lost its click, or if you can't mute or power up your device, this guide is your go-to solution. It's also perfect for those moments when your recorded videos sound like a bad radio station or if your camera flash is playing hide and seek. Let’s roll up our sleeves and get started on this fun repair journey together! If you need a hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!

Step 1

- First things first, let’s power down your iPhone completely to keep it safe during the repair process.

- Give that standby button a good press for about three seconds until the slider pops up.

- Swipe it from left to right. Your iPhone will now take about ten seconds to shut down completely. Hang tight!

Step 2

- Grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver to pop open that iPhone SE like a pro!

- Carefully take out the two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure, right next to the Lightning connector. Don’t forget to keep these little guys safe in the same box!

Step 3

- Place your iPhone SE on a soft, clean surface to keep that back looking fresh and scratch-free.

- To lift the display, grab a suction cup and a hard plastic pick. If your screen looks like a spider web, cover it with tape first. We want to keep you safe from any sharp glass edges!

- Position the suction cup over the Home button if you can (if not, just place it beside it). While you gently pull the display up with the suction cup, use that hard plastic pick to nudge down the aluminum frame. Insert the pick between the aluminum frame and the display. It might take a few tries, but you’ve got this!

- Once you see a little gap between the two parts, you can gently twist the pick to widen it.

- When you can lift the display a few millimeters, carefully work your way around the edges until it’s loose on both sides. Don’t completely remove it yet; you need to disconnect the Home button first.

- There’s a metal cover blocking the Home button. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully detach that cover.

- With the cover off, you can now disconnect the Home button from the flexible flat Lightning cable.

Step 4

- Underneath a cover, you'll find the battery contact and the flexible flat Lightning cable contact. This cover is held down by two Phillips screws. Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove those screws. Once they're out, use a pair of tweezers to lift the cover off. Make sure to keep all the little parts in the same section of your organizer tray!

- Now, let's gently disconnect the battery contact using your spudger. Slide the pointed tip of the spudger just below the connector. If you don’t have a spudger handy, your fingernail can do the trick too!

Step 5

- Alright, let's kick things off by unscrewing those four Phillips screws from the shiny silver cover. Make sure to stash those screws in the same container so they don't go wandering off! Once they're out, lift that cover away like a pro.

- Next up, it's time to disconnect the three overlapping connectors. Follow the order shown in the image, and remember to be gentle! Use the pointed tip of your spudger to slide just below each contact and lift it up with care.

Step 6

- Unplug the Lightning connector’s flex cable by gently lifting it with the pointed tip of your spudger, just below the contact. It’s lightly glued to the back cover, so give it a little nudge to detach it, and then fold the cable over carefully.

- Next up, use that handy spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from the logic board. You've got this!

Step 7

- Time to channel your inner handyman! Let's tackle those seven Phillips screws like a pro. Make sure to stash them in different containers so they don’t play hide and seek later on!

Step 8

- Grab that flat end of your spudger and gently lift the speaker out of its cozy little home. Just a heads up, there are two sneaky tabs keeping it snug. One tab is hiding under the logic board, right beneath the antenna connection, and the other is tucked away below the Home button connection on the Lightning connector.

- Now, let’s get those tweezers in action! Twist and pull to remove the speaker with finesse.

Step 9

- The Lightning connector is stuck to the back cover like a stubborn sticker! To loosen it up, grab your heat gun and give that back cover a gentle warm-up. It’ll help the glue let go!

- Next, take your steel lab spatula and gently slide it under the flexible flat cable. Be careful and take your time; we want to disconnect that Lightning connector without any drama!

- Finally, use your fingers or some tweezers to carefully lift off the ribbon cable. You've got this!

Step 10

- The battery is stuck to the back cover with two adhesive strips. One end of each strip is tucked under the battery and folded up. Go ahead and unfold that end to make your life easier for the next step!

- Now, gently pull the black ends of those adhesive strips at a flat angle to release the battery. If you prefer, you can separate the strips and remove them one by one. Just make sure to hold the battery and your device steady throughout this process. Those strips can be a bit tricky and might tear. If that happens, warm up your device with a little hot air and use a spudger to carefully pry out the battery.

- After you’ve successfully removed the adhesive strips, you can take the battery out!

Step 11

- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle that iSight camera connector free from the logic board. You got this!

- Time to say goodbye to that pesky black sticker. Peel it off with care!

- The camera is snug as a bug in a rug, thanks to a rubber cover that's hooked onto two metal tabs. Detach that cover from the tabs and fold it over toward the edge of the back cover. Almost there!

- Now, it’s time to lift out the camera. You’re doing great!

Step 12

- Time to give your iPhone a little TLC! Start by gently removing the SIM card and its tray from the enclosure. You've got this!

Step 13

- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle that flexible flat volume cable's contact away from the logic board. You've got this!

Step 14

- The antenna contact is held in place by a couple of Phillips screws—time to show them who's boss! Unscrew those bad boys: one 1.1mm and one 2.2mm Phillips screw.

- Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift the contact away from the enclosure. Easy peasy!

Step 15

- Start by unscrewing those six screws that are holding the logic board to the back cover. You've got a mix here: three 2.7 mm Phillips screws, one 2.7 mm Phillips screw (not magnetic), and two 2.1 mm Phillips screws. Easy peasy!

- Now, gently lift the logic board and give it a 180° twist towards the volume rocker switch. Be careful, it’s like a dance move!

- Next up, disconnect the antenna contact from the logic board. You can do it!

- Once that's done, carefully remove the logic board from the back cover. You're almost there!

- And lastly, take that washer out of the enclosure and keep it with the screws. You've got this!

Step 16

- Time to get that vibrator motor out! First, let's unscrew the three Phillips screws holding it in place. You’ll need: 1 x 2.3 mm Phillips screw, 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw (at a 90° angle), and another 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

- Once those screws are out, gently remove the motor. You've got this!

Step 17

- The volume cable is stuck to the back cover like a stubborn sticker! Give that back cover a little warmth with your hot air tool to make it easier to peel off the cable without causing any damage.

- Next, grab your trusty steel laboratory spatula and gently slide it between the flexible flat volume cable and the back cover to disconnect them. Easy does it!

- Now it's time to tackle those pesky Phillips screws holding the volume rocker switch and mute button in place. You’ll need three screws: one 1.5 mm Phillips (at a 90° angle), one 1.3 mm Phillips (at a 90° angle), and one 1.6 mm Phillips (at a 90° angle). Remember, you're not removing the flexible flat volume cable just yet!

Step 18

- The flash is nestled on the flexible flat volume cable, snug as a bug under a cover. Time to unscrew those two Phillips screws that are keeping it in place—just two 1.4 mm Phillips screws to deal with!

- Once you've got those screws out, grab your tweezers and gently lift that cover off the back. You’re doing great!

Step 19

- First up, grab that Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the little screw that's holding the standby button in place. It's a 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw, so keep it safe!

- Next, let’s make some space! Gently remove the rubber flap that’s keeping the rear camera snug. This flap has a rubber block on one side, which is tucked into an opening in the back cover. Be gentle while pulling it to avoid any mishaps.

- Now, let's get rid of that black foam strip that's stuck to the back of the standby button. Out it goes!

- To make things easier for the next steps, take out the volume rocker switch and the mute button. You got this!

- One side of the standby button is connected to an axis on the back cover (check out that blue arrow!). To disconnect it, you’ll need to fold it out to at least a 45° angle. Sometimes, the flexible flat cable can be a little clingy, so detach it carefully to avoid any damage.

- Lastly, remove the flexible flat volume cable from the enclosure. You're almost there!

Step 20

- Remove the three buttons for the volume rocker switch, the mute button and the standby button. Start with the volume rocker switch.

- Remove the mute button.

- Remove the standby button from the enclosure.

Step 21

- Let's get those buttons in place! Start by popping in the three buttons: the volume rocker switch, the mute button, and the standby button into their cozy little spots in the enclosure.

- Kick things off with the standby button! Make sure you pay attention to its position. The rocker switch should be facing up, towards the open side of the back cover—no one likes a shy button!

- Next up, it's the mute button's turn, followed by the volume rocker switch. Keep an eye on their positions again! The mute button has an orange stripe that needs to be facing up, just like the standby button.

- For the volume rocker switch, make sure the plus symbol is sandwiched between the mute button and the minus symbol. You're doing great!

Step 22

- Angle that standby button just right so it’s leaning against the axis in the back cover.

- Hook that standby button onto the axis using the part shaped like a hook (check out the blue arrow!). Make sure it’s leaning at least 45° towards the outer wall.

- Get that flexible flat cable in the back cover lined up so the volume rocker switch and mute button are peeking through their respective openings. This will make the next steps a breeze.

- Nestle the flash into its cozy opening in the back cover and position the ambient microphone. Don’t forget to attach that black foam to the standby button.

- Reattach the black rubber flap to the enclosure. Just push the end with the rubber block into the opening in the back cover.

- Secure the standby button in the back cover using a Phillips screw. You’ll need a 1 x 1.8 mm Phillips screw, and make sure it’s at a 90° angle.

Step 23

- Time to put that flash cover back in its cozy spot where it belongs!

- Secure it in place with those two Phillips screws. Just two 1.4 mm Phillips screws and you're golden!

Step 24

- Grab your trio of Phillips screws and let’s get that volume rocker switch and mute button snugly attached to the enclosure! Don’t forget to give a gentle nudge to the flexible flat cable so it sticks to the back cover. You’ll need: 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw (at a 90° angle), 1 x 1.3 mm Phillips screw (at a 90° angle), and 1 x 1.6 mm Phillips screw (at a 90° angle).

Step 25

- Time to get that vibrator motor back in its happy place! First, let's screw it back in like a pro.

- You'll need three Phillips screws to attach the motor to the back cover: 1 x 2.3 mm Phillips screw, 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw (at a 90° angle), and another 1 x 1.5 mm Phillips screw. You've got this!

Step 26

- First, let’s pop that washer back in like it never left!

- Now, position the logic board so you can easily access its bottom side. You’ve got this!

- Connect the antenna cable to the socket on the bottom of the logic board. Nice and easy!

- Carefully place the logic board back into the back cover. It’s like tucking it in for a nap!

- Secure everything with the six screws just like before: 3 x 2.7 mm Phillips screws, 1 x 2.7 mm Phillips screw (not magnetic), and 2 x 2.1 mm Phillips screws. You’re doing great!

Step 27

- Reposition the antenna contact back into its cozy spot in the enclosure.

- Secure it down with two Phillips screws: one 1.1mm Phillips screw (at a 90° angle) and one 2.2mm Phillips screw. You've got this!

Step 28

- Alright, let’s get that flexible flat volume cable plugged into the logic board! Just connect its little plug contact and you’re all set!

Step 29

- Time to pop that SIM card and its tray back into their cozy little home in the enclosure. You're doing great!

Step 30

- Place the rear camera back where it belongs in the back cover.

- Secure the camera with the rubber cover you previously removed by hooking it onto the two metal tabs.

- Reapply the black sticker.

- Connect the camera to the logic board.

Step 31

- First up, let's stick on two fresh adhesive strips to secure that battery to the back cover. Make sure to place those strips just before the flexible flat volume cable, perfectly centered between the logic board and the outer wall. You've got this!

- Now, give those adhesive strips a good press with your fingers to make sure they stick to the back cover and don't get stuck on that pesky red film when you peel it off.

- Go ahead and peel off that red protective film!

- Time to position the battery! Make sure it's centered on those adhesive strips. You can use the black ends of the strips as a guide. The battery should line up perfectly with the white adhesive strips. Just ensure there's enough room between the battery and the logic board for the battery connection.

- Finally, fold over the black end in the middle. Easy peasy!

Step 32

- Put the Lightning connector in its original position in the back cover.

- Press on the flexible flat cable firmly so the glue will stick to the back cover better.

- Make sure the microphone with the rubber sleeve, the Lightning connector and the headphone jack are fitted properly in the frame.

Step 33

- Time to place the speaker back in its cozy spot! Remember, there are two sneaky tabs holding it in place. One tab is hiding under the logic board, right under the antenna connection, while the other is below the Home button connection on the Lightning connector. Grab those tweezers, give the speaker a little twist, and slide it back in like a pro!

Step 34

- Tighten up that Lightning connector with those seven Phillips screws like a champ!

Step 35

- Plug that antenna cable back into the logic board like a champ!

- Reconnect the Lightning connector to the logic board—you're almost there!

Step 36

- Reconnect those connectors! Sometimes getting the display connector to fit just right can take a few tries. Just be gentle—no bending allowed!

- Once those connectors are snug, fire up your iPhone! Give everything a check: LCD, touchscreen, proximity sensor, front camera, and earpiece. If the display connectors aren't seated properly, you might see some funky stripes or find parts of the touchscreen being a bit moody.

- Now, let's get that cover back on and screw it down tight!

Step 37

- Reconnect the battery contact to the logic board, making sure it's snug as a bug!

- Pop the cover back on and fasten it down with those two Phillips screws—you're almost done!

Step 38

- Slide the display into the enclosure starting at the top edge where the connection cables are. Make sure it clicks into place just right!

- Before connecting your device to the display, don’t forget to link the Home button to the Lightning connector and secure it all with the cover.

- Gently push on the display towards the Home button until it's snugly seated in the frame. The display should sit flush with the frame, looking sharp!

Step 39

- Now, let's get those two pentalobe screws at the bottom of the enclosure snugly in place!

Step 40

- Let's get your iPhone back on track! Start by syncing with iTunes or connecting to a Wi-Fi network and hang tight while it sets the time.

- Gently pop out the SIM tray along with the SIM card, then slide it back in like a pro.

- Flip on airplane mode for a moment, then switch it off again. You're doing great!

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