iPhone X – Replacing the back cover
Duration: 120 min.
Steps: 48 Steps
In this repair guide, we're here to help you tackle the task of swapping out your iPhone's back cover, step by step! Since that glass can be a bit stubborn, we suggest going for a full unit replacement that includes both the stainless steel frame and the back glass. You've got this! If you find our instructions useful, we'd love to hear your positive feedback. Let's get started on that back cover replacement!
Step 1
- Before diving into your iPhone X repair adventure, make sure to power it down to keep it safe from any mishaps. Just press and hold the standby button along with one of the volume buttons for about three seconds.
- Once the "Power Off" slider pops up on your screen, give it a gentle swipe from left to right. In about 10 seconds, your iPhone will be completely off and ready for the next steps!
Step 2
- Unscrew the two pentalobe screws that are hanging out to the right and left of the Lightning connector. Don't forget to toss them into your trusty screw storage box!
2 × 6,8 mm Pentalobe
To keep track of all those tiny screws and components you just removed, we suggest using a screw storage box. An old sewing box can work like a charm! For our repairs, we love using a high-quality magnetic pad where we can arrange the parts just like they were in the phone. This way, when it’s time to put everything back together, you’ll know exactly where each screw belongs. Easy peasy, right?
Tools Used
Step 3
When it comes to heating up your device, think of it like warming up a cozy cup of cocoa—just enough to feel nice and toasty, but not so much that you need to run for ice packs! Keep it comfy to the touch and you’re golden.
- Set your iPhone X down on a nice, soft surface—this keeps that shiny back from getting scratched while you work your magic on the display!
- Grab your hot air tool, whether it's a fancy heat gun or just your trusty hairdryer, and gently wave it over the glued edge of the display. Keep it moving to warm things up evenly!
Tools Used
Step 4
Hey there! Just a heads up: once you pop open your iPhone X, the waterproof warranty takes a vacation. That IP67 dust and splash protection? Yeah, it waves goodbye too. But no worries, you're doing great!
- Stick that suction cup on the bottom edge of your device and give it a little pull upwards. This will create a slim gap between the stainless steel and the display frame—like magic!
- Now, grab a sturdy, flat tool and slide it into that newly created gap to make it even bigger. While you're at it, gently nudge the display upwards with the tool, using those handy flat plastic picks to assist you.
Tools Used
Step 5
Hey there! Just a quick reminder: when you're working on the display, keep it gently propped up and avoid folding it all the way back while it's still connected. Those flex cables are sensitive little guys, and we want to keep them safe and sound!
- Gently lift the display away from the aluminum frame using a sturdy plastic plectrum, giving it a little push upwards.
- Once the display is free, you can carefully fold it to the side of the standby button.
- Prop it up against something stable to keep it standing tall and upright.
Tools Used
Step 6
1 × 3,0 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,6 mm Y-Type
Just a friendly reminder: the screws in your iPhone X come in different lengths, so keep an eye on them to avoid any mix-ups!
- Grab your Y-type screwdriver and unscrew those Y-type screws like a pro! Once they're out, you can easily lift off the cover plate.
- Next up, it's time to disconnect the battery. Use a flat plastic tool—our go-to is a trusty plastic spudger. Just slide it under the connector, and you'll have it disconnected in no time!
Tools Used
Step 7
Display Connector
Earpiece Connector
Hey there! Just a little tip: when you're disconnecting those connectors, make sure to use your tools from the side without any components. It's like giving your logicboard a gentle high-five instead of a surprise poke!
- Carefully use a spudger to detach the connectors from the logic board, one at a time. Just a heads up, the earpiece flex cable at the top of the display has a bit of glue on it, so be gentle!
- Once you've disconnected all the connectors, you can go ahead and remove the display entirely. You're doing awesome!
Tools Used
Step 8
1 × 1,5 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,4 mm Phillips
2 × 1,8 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
- Start by loosening those Phillips and Y-Type screws from the speaker's bracket plate. You've got this!
- Next, give that plate a gentle flip and use your spudger to separate the connector like a pro.
- And voilà! Now it's time to remove the bracket plate and move on to the next exciting step!
Step 9
1 × 2.1 mm Y-Type
- Start by loosening the Y-type screw on the bracket plate and gently lift off the cover plate like a pro!
- Next, disconnect the speaker connector and carefully lift up the flex cable—easy peasy!
- Now, it's time to loosen that stubborn speaker a bit by gently prying it up with your trusty spudger. You've got this!
- Once the speaker is loosened, simply remove it along with the flex cable from your device. You're doing great!
Step 10
1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
- First, let's tackle those Phillips screws keeping the Taptic Engine snug in its spot. Unscrew them with a smile!
- Now, grab your spudger and gently separate the Taptic Engine's connector. You've got this!
- Finally, using your trusty tweezers, carefully lift the Taptic Engine out of your iPhone. You're doing an amazing job!
Step 11
- Grab your trusty tweezers or a handy spatula to gently lift off those black tabs. You’ll find the white adhesive strips hiding underneath, ready for action!
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: when you're pulling out that last adhesive strip, give the battery a good hold to keep it snug in its spot. We don't want it to go on an unexpected adventure!
If you find yourself in a sticky situation with a torn tape, don't worry! Just grab a wide and sturdy tool to gently coax the battery out without bending it. A battery spudger works wonders for this task!
Tools Used
Step 12
Camera Connector
1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
- First, let’s loosen those two Phillips screws holding the iSight camera bracket plate in place. You got this!
- Next, give a little lift to the tiny eyelet at the top edge of the rear case that’s holding the bracket plate snug. Just a gentle nudge will do!
- Now, grab your trusty spudger and carefully separate the two connectors of the iSight camera from the logic board. Take your time!
- Finally, with a little finesse, use the spudger to gently pry the camera out of its cozy spot and set it aside. You're doing great!
Step 13
- Grab your trusty SIM tool or a paperclip and gently slide it into the little opening next to the SIM card tray. Give it a little push, and voilà! The tray should pop right out, ready for its next adventure.
Tools Used
Step 14
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently disconnect all those connectors from the logic board. We're talking about the Lightning connector, the flashlight, the FaceTime camera, and the volume buttons—let's get them all sorted!
- Oh, and there's a connector hiding under the flex cable of the FaceTime camera. Just bend that cable to the side with care, and you'll be able to detach the connector like a champ!
1 × 2,8 mm Phillips
1 × 2,1 mm Phillips
1 × 1,1 mm Phillips
Lightning connector
Camera flash connector
Speaker connector
Front-facing camera connector
Wi-Fi antenna connector
Wireless charging connector
If you're having a tough time releasing that connector, no worries! Just take a step back and remove the FaceTime camera first. It's like taking the scenic route to your destination—still gets you there!
Step 15
1 × 2,3 mm Standoff
Those Standoff screws can be tackled with a special screwdriver, but if you’re feeling adventurous, a thin slotted screwdriver will do the trick too! You got this!
- Unscrew the screw and use your tweezers to gently lift off the plastic cover. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
1 × 1,9 mm Y-Type
2 × 2,6 mm Standoff
2 × 3,5 mm Phillips
Give that flex cable a warm hug with your hot air tool! This will loosen it up and make it a breeze to remove. Just remember, a little warmth goes a long way—like a cozy blanket for your device!
- Get ready to loosen all the screws around that Lightning connector! Keep an eye out for two sneaky screws that are a bit longer—those little guys can be a challenge to loosen, but you’ve got this!
Step 17
- Heat the glued flex cable over a large area with a heat gun or a hair dryer.
- Remove the cable from the back cover one by one with a steel spatula and take it out.
Tools Used
Step 18
- With a steady hand, use those tweezers to gently unhook the TrueDepth camera and Face ID unit. You've got this!
- Now, let's warm things up! Heat that glued flex cable and carefully work it loose bit by bit with a steel spatula until the whole unit can be removed from your iPhone. Keep it steady and patient!
Step 19
1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
1 × 2,0 mm Phillips
1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
Take a moment to check if the adhesive on your microphone has decided to take a break from its duties along with the flex cable. If it's still hanging out on the back cover, gently remove it and reattach it to the right spot on the flex cable. You've got this!
- First, let's tackle those screws that hold the standby button in place. Unscrew them like a pro!
- Next, warm up that flex cable with some heat and gently pull it from the bottom of the back cover. Use your tweezers and a steel spatula for some extra finesse.
- Now, give that flex cable a little bend to the side. This will help you pull out the flashlight and the black protective frame using your trusty tweezers.
- And finally, it's time to carefully lever out the microphone next to the flashlight from its cozy spot. You've got this!
Step 20
- First, let's get those pesky screws out of the way that are holding the clamp in place. You've got this!
3 × 1,4 mm Phillips
1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,3 mm Phillips
Hey there! Just a little reminder: keep an eye on the orientation of those metal clamps before you loosen them up. That way, when it’s time to put everything back together, you’ll screw them back on like a pro!
To make your unscrewing game a breeze, consider using tweezers to hold those clamps steady while you twist out the screws. It’s like having an extra set of hands—how handy is that?
Step 21
1 × 1,4 mm Phillips
- First, let's tackle that Phillips screw and give it a twist! You've got this!
- Next, warm up that flex cable with your heat gun or hair dryer, and gently ease it out with a steel spatula. Take your time, and soon it will come loose!
Step 22
7 × 1,4 mm Phillips
Hey! Just a friendly reminder: keep an eye on how those staples are oriented before you pop them out. If they’re not in the right spot, your display might not sit just right. Let's make sure everything fits perfectly!
- Loosen all those Phillips screws around the edge of the back cover to release the display clamps. You're on your way to a successful repair!
Step 23
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
1 × 2,5 mm Phillips
1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
2 × 1,4 mm Phillips
If you find yourself needing to warm up that cable a few times, think of it like giving it a cozy hug! Just enough heat to loosen things up without overdoing it. You're on the right track!
- First, let's unscrew all those Phillips screws hanging out around the edge of the back cover. They’re just waiting to be freed!
- Now, give that whole cable set a nice warm hug with your hot air tool before gently coaxing it out from the bottom of the back cover with a steel spatula. Take your time, you’ve got this!
Step 24
- Start by gently unhooking the metal bracket of the standby button using your tweezers on one side, then pull it out completely. You've got this!
- Next, give that shiny silver metal clamp a little lift from one side and then pull it off the standby button's thread like a pro.
- Now, push the standby button from the inside out of your iPhone X's rear case frame. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 25
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: make sure to pop out that little plastic pin next to the SIM card tray before you try to remove the tray. Otherwise, it might just decide to stick around, and that tray won't budge! You've got this!
- Place both back covers side by side and gather up any stray parts that might be missing. You're on the right track!
Tools Used
Step 26
No need to stress about how those keys line up—they're all the same! Just pop them in without worrying about their alignment. You've got this!
- Start by gently placing the standby button back into its cozy little spot on the edge of the rear case.
- Next, give that metal clamp a little push downwards so it snaps onto the thread of the standby button like it's meant to be there.
- Then, press the clamp down until it clicks into place securely on the other side.
- Finally, hook the metal bracket on one side first, then swing it around to the other side of the metal clamp. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 27
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
1 × 2,5 mm Phillips
1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
2 × 1,4 mm Phillips
When you're placing those shiny metal covers, just keep an eye on the screw openings! Make sure the mute button cover is snugly over the volume button holder. You've got this, and it's going to look great!
- First, let's get that charging coil back to its original cozy spot in the back cover. It’s like tucking in a friend!
- Now, place the metal clamps for the volume buttons right on the edge of the rear case. They’re ready to hold everything together!
Step 28
7 × 1,4 mm Phillips
Hey there! Just a friendly nudge: when you're securing those clamps, make sure to get them in the right orientation. If not, your display might end up feeling a bit cramped. Let’s keep it cozy and fitting just right!
- Start by placing the first clamp right at the edge of that back cover and secure it in place with some Phillips screws. You’ve got this!
- Now, repeat the same process for the other two clamps. Teamwork makes the dream work!
Step 29
1 × 1,4 mm Phillips
When it comes to finding your way around those tiny screws, think of it as a fun little treasure map! Use the various screw holes as your guide to make sure everything goes back in the right spot. You've got this!
- Nestle that small Bluetooth antenna cable right back next to the iSight camera guide. It's like tucking in a cozy blanket—make sure it’s snug!
Step 30
- Gently guide that flex cable back to its original home, making sure it feels snug and secure!
3 × 1,4 mm Phillips
1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,3 mm Phillips
Hey! Just a friendly reminder: make sure those clamps are lined up just right so the FaceTime camera unit can settle in comfortably later. You've got this!
Get your bearings by checking out those different screw openings! They’re like little guides helping you on your repair journey. Just remember, each one has its special place, so keep an eye on them as you go!
Step 31
1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
1 × 2,0 mm Phillips
1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
Before you pop that flex cable back in with the flash and microphone, make sure that little oval adhesive pad is snugly on the microphone. If it decided to take a vacation when you took it off, no worries! Just snag it from the old back cover and get ready to reattach.
- First things first! Make sure that adhesive is in the right spot on the microphone before you pop it back into its cozy little opening.
- Next up, let's get that black rubber frame back into the microphone opening too. Just make sure it’s aligned just right!
- Now, flip that flashlight into the opening next to the microphone and slide the metal clamp of the standby button under the existing clamp on the rear case frame.
- Give the metal clamp a good twist to tighten it up, then gently press that thin flex cable down flat against the bottom of the back cover. You're nailing this!
Step 32
- Nestle your shiny new camera unit back into its cozy home in the iPhone X.
- Secure the unit on both sides, making sure it fits snugly like a glove.
- Gently press down on the flex cables at the bottom of the back cover to keep everything in place.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Reposition the speaker's antenna cable and give it a gentle press against the bottom of the back cover to make sure it stays snug. You've got this!
Step 34
1 × 1,9 mm Y-Type
2 × 2,6 mm Standoff
2 × 3,5 mm Phillips
- Slide the Lightning connector back into its cozy spot on the iPhone, making sure it fits snugly in the bottom case frame.
- Gently push the microphone back into its designated frame at the bottom of the rear case.
- With a light touch, press the flex cable down along the edge of the back cover, ensuring it's securely in place.
- Now, grab your screwdriver and tighten those screws for the Lightning connector and flex cable. You're doing fantastic!
Tools Used
Step 35
1 × 2,3 mm Standoff
- Pop that barometric vent right into its cozy spot at the bottom edge of the rear case and give it a twist with the screw to keep it snug. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
1 × 2,7 mm Phillips
1 × 2,1 mm Phillips
1 × 1,1 mm Phillips
Lightning connector
Camera flash connector
Speaker connector
Front-facing camera connector
Wi-Fi antenna connector
Wireless charging connector
- Give all those loose flex cables a little nudge to the side before sliding the logic board back into the rear cover. We want to make sure they don’t get stuck in any awkward spots!
- Place that small metal cover back where it belongs and secure it with screws.
- Fasten the logic board in with the remaining screws. You’re almost there!
- Now, let’s connect all those little connectors. You’ve got this!
Step 37
When you're sliding the SIM card tray back in, it should glide in smoothly without any major resistance. If it feels like it's putting up a fight, it might mean the logic board isn't seated just right. Let's keep everything cozy and aligned!
- Slide that SIM card tray back into its cozy spot in the back cover frame. It should glide right in, just like it was made for this moment!
Step 38
- Carefully slide that iSight camera back into its designated spot in the enclosure and give it a gentle squeeze to secure it in place.
- Connect the two camera connectors together, making sure they’re snug and ready to roll!
- Position the metal cover next to the iSight camera, standing tall against the rear case.
- Now, fold it over so the screw holes line up perfectly—you're doing great!
Camera Connector
1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
Hey there! Before you slide that iSight camera in, let's make sure it's all sparkly clean—no dust bunnies or fingerprints on the lens or hiding inside the camera cover. You’ve got this!
Just a friendly reminder to ensure that the small metal eyelet is sitting proudly above the metal cover. It’s like giving it a little spotlight—make sure it’s in the right place!
Step 39
- Peel off that big, bold blue protective film and stick those adhesive strips right on the bottom of the battery. You’re making progress, keep it up!
Hey there! Just a quick reminder: make sure to place those adhesive strips with their protective films in the device the right way around. We want everything to stick perfectly! You've got this!
When you're sticking on those adhesive strips, remember to leave a little wiggle room on both sides so you can fold over the tabs later. It's like giving your project a nice little hug! You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 40
Hey! Just a friendly reminder: make sure to position that battery just right! Use the connector as your guide, ensuring it fits snugly on the logic board contact. You’ve got this!
- Pop that battery back into its cozy spot in the rear case and give it a little press to make sure it bonds snugly. You're almost done!
Step 41
1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
- First up, pop that Taptic Engine back into its cozy spot in the rear case. Just make sure those screw holes are lined up like they’re meant to be best friends.
- Next, let’s connect the Taptic Engine’s connector. It’s like giving it a warm handshake!
- Finally, secure the Taptic Engine in place with those Phillips screws. You're doing an awesome job!
Step 42
1 × 2,2 mm Y-Type
- Pop that speaker back into its original spot and give it a gentle press to make it feel at home.
- Connect the speaker's connector like you're giving it a high-five!
- Now, place the bracket plate over the speaker connector and secure it with the Y-type screw. You’re nailing this!
Step 43
1 × 1.5 mm Y-Type
1 × 1.4 mm Phillips
2 × 1.8 mm Y-Type
1 × 1.0 mm Y-Type
1 × 1.5 mm Phillips
1 × 2.2 mm Phillips
- Position the bracket plate upright along the bottom edge of the display so you can easily connect the connector. You're doing great!
- Next, fold the bracket plate over and align it so that the screw openings sit perfectly above the threads. Keep it steady!
- Now, tighten everything up with the Phillips and Y-type screws. You've got this!
Step 44
- To make sure your new adhesive frame sticks like a charm, first, say goodbye to any leftover adhesive residue on both the stainless steel and display frames.
- Now, align that adhesive frame just right and peel off the protective film from the bottom like a pro!
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: after you've added that new adhesive strip, your iPhone is back in action against dust and splash water! Just remember, it’s not fully waterproof—think of it as water-resistant with a little flair! Keep rocking your repair journey!
The corners of the adhesive frame are uniquely shaped to help you line it up perfectly with your device's frame. It's like having a built-in GPS for your repair journey!
Tools Used
Step 45
Display Connector
Earpiece Connector
Give that lower connector a little love tap with your spudger to ensure it's snug as a bug in a rug. You want it seated just right, so it’s ready to rock and roll!
- To keep those delicate flex cables from getting too stretched out while you're connecting the display, just set the display down next to the frame of your iPhone X and lean it against something sturdy. You've got this!
- Gently press the three display connectors together until you hear that satisfying click. It's like a little victory dance for your phone!
Tools Used
Step 46
1 × 3,0 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,6 mm Y-Type
- Reconnect that battery connector like a champ!
- Next up, let's place the bracket plate back on and secure it with those Y-Type screws. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 47
Before you seal the deal with that glue, why not give your iPhone's display and other features a quick test drive? It’s like a warm-up lap before the big race—make sure everything's running smoothly!
- With a gentle grip, take that display and fold it over like a pro, making sure it’s snug.
- Now, give it a little press down along the frame, one step at a time. You're doing great!
Step 48
2 × 6.8 mm Pentalobe
- Tighten those two pentalobe screws hanging out to the left and right of the Lightning connector. Make sure they’re snug as a bug in a rug!
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