iPhone Xs – Removing the mainboard
Duration: 120 min.
Steps: 15 Steps
Has your iPhone Xs taken a dip and is now in need of a little TLC? No worries! This guide will walk you through the steps to safely remove the logic board for cleaning or repairs. Each step comes with a handy video to show you the ropes, just hit that play button in the corner of the first image at each step. A quick heads-up: when you're working with the front camera, FaceID unit, and earpiece, be super careful! If those get damaged, you might lose that FaceID functionality. So, let's get started and bring your iPhone Xs back to life!
Step 1
- First things first, let's power down that iPhone to keep it safe during the repair. Just press and hold the Standby button along with one of the volume buttons for about three seconds, and voilà—the 'Power off' slider will pop up.
- Now, give that slider a friendly swipe from left to right. Your iPhone will take a moment to shut down completely—this might take around ten seconds, but it’s worth it!
Step 2
2 × 6,8 mm Pentalobe
Once you pop that iPhone Xs open, it waves goodbye to its dust and splash protection (IP 68 rating). Keep that in mind while you work!
- First up, let’s tackle those two pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the back cover. They’re hanging out right next to the Lightning connector, one on each side. Don’t forget to toss those screws into your magnetic pad box so they don’t go on an adventure without you!
- Now, gently place your iPhone Xs on a soft, clean surface. We want to keep that back looking spiffy and scratch-free!
Step 3
- Alright, let's get that front panel lifted! Grab a suction cup, a hard plastic pick, and a heat gun. If your screen looks like it’s been through a battle, slap some packing tape over it to keep things tidy.
- The screen is glued to the frame, so let's warm things up! Use that heat gun to gently heat the outer edges of the display to about 60°C (140°F).
- Now, place the suction cup over the Home button (or right next to it if that's tricky). While you lift the screen with the suction cup, slide that hard plastic pick between the steel frame and the display frame, and gently press down on the steel frame to help it along.
Be sure to keep your tool's adventure within 5 mm of that gap! We want to avoid any mishaps with those tiny parts hiding inside the iPhone.
If you're having trouble sliding a plectrum into that gap, no sweat! Just grab an iFlex for now. But do switch back to a sturdy plastic plectrum as soon as you can to keep that frame looking sharp and scratch-free!
Step 4
- Grab your Y-Type and Phillips screwdrivers (Y000/PH00) and let’s get those screws out of the way! Once they’re gone, gently lift off the bracket plate. Remember to keep all those little parts cozy in the magnetic pad box so they don’t wander off!
- Now, with a steady hand, use a spudger to carefully pry off the battery contact. Just slide it under the connector and lift—easy does it!
1 × 1,2 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,7 mm Phillips
Battery Connector
Before you dive into the repair, make sure to disconnect the battery contact! This little step helps you dodge any short circuits and keeps your device from accidentally powering on while you're working your magic.
Apple rolled out Y-Type screws with the iPhone 7, and they sometimes get mistaken for Tri-Point or Tri-Wing. Make sure to grab a Y-Type screwdriver that fits just right for these screws to keep those heads from getting stripped!
Step 5
Display Connector
Earpiece connector
When you're prying off those connectors with your trusty spudger, just remember to tread lightly! We want to keep everything safe and sound, so no damage allowed!
- The display unit has three flexible cables connecting it—like a little trio of friends!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently separate the connectors for the display and the earpiece, one at a time. Think of it as giving them a little personal space.
- The earpiece flex cable might be a bit clingy and still slightly glued to the cable underneath. No worries! Just carefully pull it off. If it’s being stubborn, a little hot air can help loosen things up.
Step 6
In the upcoming images, you'll notice that the speaker, TapticEngine, and battery are taking a little vacation. Good news: you don’t need to remove these parts to get that logic board out!
Step 7
1 × 1,3 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
Camera Connector
- First, let's loosen those two screws holding the iSight camera cover plate in place. They’re just waiting for you!
- Now, gently lift and remove the cover plate—it’s hooked onto the side of the standby button, so give it a little nudge.
- Next up, grab your spudger and carefully separate the two connectors of the double camera. Remember, we want to treat those pins on the logic board like royalty—no damage allowed!
- Finally, use that trusty spudger to lever out the camera and remove it. You're doing great!
Step 8
1 × 3,6 mm Standoff
Connectors
1 × 3,1 mm Phillips
1 × 2,3 mm Phillips
Connectors
The contacts are snugly attached to the logic board, making them a bit tricky to reach. If your Spudger isn't doing the trick, feel free to gently use tweezers or another slim tool to help you out!
- First, let's take out that Standoff screw and give the cover a little wiggle to loosen it up. Just a heads-up, the bracket is hooked on one side, so keep that in mind!
- Now, gently ease those two contacts apart with your spudger. Take it slow and steady!
Step 9
1 × 3,1 mm Phillips
1 × 2,3 mm Phillips
1 × 3,6 mm Standoff
Connectors
- First, ensure all those flex cables are lying nice and flat in the back cover before you slide in the logic board. Give those cables a little bend to the side to avoid trapping them underneath. We want everyone to have a good time!
- Secure that logic board in place by inserting the screws—let's keep things snug!
- Next up, pop in the SIM card holder. If you feel any strong resistance, it might be a sign that the logic board isn't fitting just right.
- Now, it's time to connect all those connectors. Take your time and be gentle. Position each connector above its spot on the logic board and press down lightly. They should engage with a slight click—no need to go all Hulk on them! If you're dealing with the small plugs at the top, a spudger can be your best friend.
- Finally, hook the cover plate of the two contacts on one side and secure it down with screws. You're doing great!
Step 10
1 × 1,3 mm Y-Type
1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
Keep those camera lenses and the inside of the camera cover squeaky clean—no dust bunnies or fingerprints allowed! A clear view means better photos, so give it a quick wipe before we wrap things up!
- First up, let's tuck that iSight camera back into its cozy spot and give it a gentle press down.
- Next, plug in the connectors of those two cameras—make sure they’re snug and happy!
- Now, let’s place the bracket plate just right. It should hook onto the side of the standby button like a charm.
- Finally, secure that bracket plate in place with the two screws. You're doing awesome!
Step 11
When you give your iPhone a makeover with a frame sticker, it’ll be ready to fend off dust and the occasional splash of water! Just a friendly reminder: it’s not going to be a full-on waterproof superhero!
Check out the iPhone X in the images! The iPhone Xs shares the same design and can be re-glued just like its sibling.
- To ensure that the new frame sticker sticks like a charm, start by cleaning off any glue residue and dirt from the metal frame. We want it to be squeaky clean!
- Peel off the first protective film layer of the frame sticker and get ready for some action.
- Carefully align the frame sticker on one edge of the frame and attach it slowly. Make sure it’s nice and even, then give it a good press. A plastic spudger can help you get that adhesive to stick just right.
- Now, let’s remove the next large protective film.
- Feel free to keep the small protective films on for now and take them off once you’ve connected the display and attached the bracket plates. This little trick helps prevent anything from accidentally sticking to the frame sticker before installation. But hey, if you want to remove them right away, go for it!
Step 12
Display Connector
Earpiece Connector
Make sure those connectors click into place like they’re high-fiving each other! And watch out for those socket contacts on the logic board—let's keep them straight and happy!
- Gently place the display unit on the edge of the frame and lean it against something sturdy. We don’t want those delicate flex cables to stretch too much, and we definitely don’t want your device to make a run for it!
- Time to connect those two display connectors.
- You might need to give a little press down on the lower connector with a spudger to ensure it fits snugly.
- Use your tweezers to carefully position the earpiece connector right over its socket on the logic board.
- With a gentle touch, press to secure the connector into its socket.
Step 13
Battery Connector
1 × 1,2 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,7 mm Phillips
- Now you can connect the battery connector.
- Then insert the bracket plate and fasten with the various screws.
Step 14
- Alright, let's give that display a gentle hug with both hands and press it down slowly. We want it to feel right at home!
- Make sure it's snug everywhere in the frame, and then gradually press it down all around. You got this!
Step 15
2 × 6,8 mm Pentalobe
- Time to secure those two pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector! Just twist them in and watch your enclosure come together nicely.
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