iPhone Xs – Replacing the speaker
Duration: 45 min.
Steps: 14 Steps
Ready to bring the sound back to your iPhone Xs? In this guide, we'll walk you through replacing that pesky defective speaker all by yourself! If your tunes are coming out as whispers or your ringtone is playing hide and seek, it’s time for this repair. Let’s get that speaker back in action!
Step 1
- First things first, let's power down that iPhone! Press and hold the Standby button along with one of the volume buttons for about three seconds until you see the 'Power off' slider pop up.
- Now, give that slider a good swipe from left to right. Your iPhone will take about ten seconds to fully shut down, so hang tight!
Step 2
2 × 6,8 mm Pentalobe
Once you pop that iPhone Xs open, it waves goodbye to its dust and splash water protection (IP 68 rating).
- Time to tackle those screws! Unscrew the two pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of the back cover, right next to the Lightning connector. Make sure to keep them safe in the box of your magnetic pad.
- Now, gently place your iPhone Xs on a soft, clean surface. We want to keep that back looking fresh and scratch-free!
Step 3
Keep your tool to a max of 5 mm in that gap—let's avoid any accidental damage to those tiny parts inside your iPhone!
If you're having trouble sliding a plectrum into that gap, no worries! Just grab an iFlex to help you out. But don't forget to switch to a sturdy plastic plectrum as soon as you can to keep that frame scratch-free!
- To get that front panel lifted, grab a suction cup, a hard plastic pick, and a heat gun. If your screen looks like it’s been through a battle, slap some packing tape on it before proceeding.
- The screen is stuck to the frame like a stubborn sticker. Use that heat gun to warm up the outer edges of the display until it reaches around 60°C (140°F).
- Now, place the suction cup over the Home button (if you can) or right beside it. As you lift the screen with the suction cup, slide that hard plastic pick between the steel frame and the display frame, giving the steel frame a gentle press down.
Step 4
- Grab your Y-Type and Phillips screwdriver (Y000/PH00) and let's tackle those screws! Once they're out, gently lift off the bracket plate. Remember to keep all those little parts cozy in the box of your magnetic pad.
- Now, with a steady hand, use a spudger to carefully pry off the battery contact by sliding it under the connector. You've got this!
1 × 1,2 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,7 mm Phillips
Battery Connector
Before diving into the repair, make sure to disconnect the battery contact! This little step helps you dodge short circuits and keeps your device from accidentally turning on while you're in the zone.
Hey there! Did you know that Apple rolled out Y-Type screws starting with the iPhone 7? They're often mistakenly called Tri-Point or Tri-Wing, but let's set the record straight! Grab yourself a Y-Type screwdriver that fits these screws perfectly to avoid stripping those pesky heads. You've got this!
Step 5
Display Connector
Earpiece connector
When you're prying off those connectors with the spudger, take it easy! A gentle touch goes a long way in keeping everything safe and sound.
- The display unit is held in place by three flexible cables, just hanging out together.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry apart the connectors for the display and earpiece one at a time. Take your time, you got this!
- The earpiece's flex cable is a bit of a clingy friend, still slightly glued to the cable below. Give it a gentle tug to loosen it up. If it’s being stubborn, a little hot air can work wonders to help release that adhesive.
Step 6
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
1 × 1,6 mm Phillips
2 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
- First, let's tackle those screws! Unscrew the Phillips and Y-Type screws from the two brackets. Just a heads up, these screws come in different lengths, so make sure to place them on your magnet mat for easy reassembly later.
- Next up, gently remove the two metal brackets. They're typically glued on, but don’t worry, they’ll come off without a fuss!
Step 7
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
Speaker connector
The loudspeaker is glued to the frame like it's on a mission. When it's time to reinstall, just clear away any leftover adhesive and ensure everything is nice and even!
- First, let's loosen that single screw holding the cover plate over the flex cable connector for the speaker. No pressure, just a gentle twist will do!
- Next, carefully remove the cover plate and set it aside. You're doing great!
- Now, it's time to disconnect the flex cable connector. Lift it up gently, and feel that sense of accomplishment!
- Alright, now you can lift out the speaker along with the flex cable. Give the loudspeaker a little lift and loosen the rubber strip at the top edge. You're almost there!
- Finally, pull the speaker out completely. Look at you go!
Step 8
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
Speaker connector
Double-check that the connector is snug as a bug in a rug! A good fit means everything will work like a charm.
- Carefully place the speaker back where it belongs and give it a gentle nudge towards the bottom to ensure it sticks snugly in place.
- Watch out for that rubber strip underneath the speaker—let's keep it safe and sound!
- Next, connect the speaker's connector and secure the cover plate with that single screw. You're doing fantastic!
Step 9
1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
1 × 1,6 mm Phillip
2 × 1,2 mm Phillips
1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
- Alright, time to get those brackets in their cozy spots! Make sure to hold them steady—remember, the plate on the left of the charging port likes to hang out above the other one.
- Now, let's secure those covers with the Phillips and Y-Type screws. You're doing great!
Step 10
- To ensure that the new frame sticker sticks like a champ, let's clean up that metal frame by removing any leftover glue and dirt. A tidy frame is a happy frame!
- Peel off the first layer of protective film from the frame sticker. It's like unwrapping a gift!
- Carefully place the frame sticker on one edge of the frame and attach it gradually. Make sure it’s aligned just right and give it a good press. A plastic spudger can help you press that adhesive down nicely!
- Now, it’s time to remove the next large protective film. You're doing awesome!
- Feel free to leave those small protective films on for now. You can take them off once you've connected the display and attached the bracket plates. This way, nothing gets stuck to the frame sticker before you're ready. But if you prefer, you can remove them right away!
While using a frame sticker for your iPhone will help keep dust and splashes at bay, it won’t make it a full-on water warrior! So, keep that in mind before diving into the pool!
Check it out! The iPhone X is featured in the images, and guess what? The iPhone Xs is crafted in a similar fashion and is re-glued just the same way. So, you're in the right place to get your repair game on!
Step 11
Battery Connector
1 × 1,2 mm Y-Type
3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
1 × 3,7 mm Phillips
- It's time to plug that battery connector back in! You've got this!
- Now, pop in the bracket plate and secure it with those various screws. You're almost done!
Step 12
Display Connector
Earpiece Connector
Just a friendly reminder: make sure those connectors are snug as a bug! And let’s be careful not to bend those delicate socket contacts on the logic board—nobody wants that!
- Gently set the display unit on the edge of the frame and lean it against something sturdy to avoid stretching those delicate flex cables. Just make sure your device doesn’t go on a sliding adventure!
- Connect the two display connectors.
- You may need to give a little press down on the lower connector with a spudger to ensure it’s seated just right.
- Use your tweezers to place the earpiece connector right over its socket on the logic board.
- Carefully press to secure the connector into its socket.
Step 13
- Grab the display with both hands and gently press it down. Think of it as giving your phone a warm hug!
- Ensure it fits snugly all around the frame and give it a little push everywhere to secure it in place.
Step 14
2 × 6,8 mm Pentalobe
- Time to secure things down! Grab those two pentalobe screws and screw them into the enclosure on either side of the Lightning connector. Make sure they're snug and ready to roll!
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