Xbox Series X Shell Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 31 Steps
Switch off and disconnect all those cables, my friend!
Ready to give your Xbox Series X a fresh look? This guide will help you swap out that broken or cracked shell (also known as the enclosure). First things first: make sure to completely power down and unplug all those pesky cables from your console. And hey, don’t forget to keep it safe by following those general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety tips while you work your magic on your console!
Step 1
Before diving in, make sure to power down your console completely and unplug all those pesky cables.
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the sticker that's keeping the first screw on the back panel under wraps, right near the base. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 2
For a smooth removal, warm the sticker up with an iOpener or hair dryer.
Just peel the sticker enough to reach the hidden screw. No need to tear it all the way off.
While these are technically tamper-evident stickers, there's no reason to stress—Microsoft can't void your warranty for this, as long as everything stays intact. Enjoy the process!
- Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift back the big sticker on the back panel to uncover that sneaky second screw. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 3
As you tackle this repair, keep an eye on each screw and remember to return it to its original spot. This way, your console stays happy and healthy!
- Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and carefully unscrew those two 7.4 mm-long screws holding the back panel in place. You've got this!
Step 4
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger into the little gap between the back panel and the shell, just to the left side of the base.
- Carefully pry up the back panel to pop it free from those pesky locking clips.
Tools Used
Step 5
- Wedge the flat end of your trusty spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
- Gently pry up the back panel to pop it free from the locking clips.
Tools Used
Step 6
- Grab the back panel at the opening you just made and gently pull it up and away from the shell to release those long edges.
- When putting it all back together, give a little press along the edges of the back panel to snap it back into place.
Step 7
The back panel pops neatly into place at the top of the shell. Keep it snug!
- Gently lift the back panel and slide it away from the top edge of the device to free it from its cozy spot.
- Carefully take off the back panel.
Step 8
- Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let's pop out those three screws holding the fan to the center chassis!
- First up, a single pristine 10.5 mm pancake screw.
- Then, tackle the duo of 8.8 mm screws.
Step 9
Hey there! Remember to grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires. Your devices will thank you!
- Grab the edges of the fan cable connector with your fingers or some gentle blunt tweezers and give it a little pull upwards to disconnect it from the center chassis. You've got this!
- When you're putting everything back together, make sure to tuck that fan cable snugly under its little cable guide on the fan housing. This way, it won't get in the way of the back panel. Nice and neat!
Tools Used
Step 10
When swapping out the fan, keep in mind that the new one might not come with the plastic installation bracket. That little piece is usually attached to the fan with four T10 Torx screws. Just a heads up, it’s not shown in this guide!
- Gently slide the fan out of its cozy little slot to free it up.
- When it's time to pop that fan back in, remember: there's only one right way to do it—make sure Master Chief is looking right at you!
Step 11
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the locking tab upwards, freeing the base from the shell. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 12
You might need to keep the locking tab open while getting the base in place.
When it's locked in, the 'Hello from Seattle' line will be lined up with the device's sides.
- Hold onto the base and give it a twist to the left to free it from the shell.
- Take off the base.
- When putting it back together, align the base tabs with the holes on the shell and give it a twist to the right until the base clicks into the interior lock.
Step 13
- Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let's get those two 8.8 mm screws out of the optical drive's vibration isolator! You'll find one screw on the base and the other on the top of the isolator. You've got this! And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 14
The vibration isolator has a snug grip on the optical drive with those silicone pads, so you'll need to 'walk' it off, a little shimmy each side.
- Gently lift the optical drive's vibration isolator off to set it free.
- When you're putting things back together, make sure to press the vibration isolator down snugly around both edges of the optical drive. It should sit nice and flush with the center chassis like a pro!
Step 15
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Keep it classy and avoid any accidental tug-of-war.
- Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the optical drive power connector. Give it a little lift to disconnect it from the optical drive.
- Now, using your fingers, give a gentle pull to disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.
Tools Used
Step 16
If your drive is a bit out of line, the top vibration isolator won't fit right, and your disc reader might not match up with the console front. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Grasp the top edge of the optical drive and give it a gentle tug to slide it out of its cozy nook in the case.
- When putting it back together, make sure to match up the pegs on the bottom of the optical drive with the guide holes at the base of the shell. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 17
Ribbon cables and their connectors are super delicate—treat those locking tabs with care and ease them open slowly. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip open that metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. You've got this!
- When it's time to put everything back together, just give that metal locking tab a gentle snap to secure it once the cable is in place. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but leave the cable alone, okay? You've got this!
So, if your USB port cable is sticking to the metal frame, go ahead and fire up your iOpener or a handy hair dryer to warm it up. Depending on your trusty Xbox model, you might have to sneak an opening pick under the cable to peel that adhesive away. Remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug on that black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
Only tug on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Avoid pulling on the cable without pressing the metal tab—this could damage the cable or connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Grab the pointed end of a spudger and press down that little metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
- Once that tab is held down, use tweezers to gently lift the pull tab and unplug the power button cable from the center chassis.
- When you're putting it back together, the cable should click right into place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 20
- Grab your T8 Torx driver and pop out the three 7.4mm screws holding the center chassis assembly to the shell. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 21
For certain Xbox models, you might find the adhesive under the cable. In that case, grab a hair dryer or an iOpener to warm it up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Carefully lift the taped USB port ribbon cable away from the heatsink.
Tools Used
Step 22
Align the center chassis with the shell using those handy guide pegs. Just give them a little nudge to slide out of their slots, and voilà! The chassis is free to be lifted out. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Grab hold of that middle chassis and give it a tug towards the green fan grille at the top of the shell—it's time to uncouple those guide pegs like a pro.
- Lift the center chassis assembly up and out to banish it from the shell.
- When putting it back together, keep an eye on those ribbon cables so they don't get squashed—lower that center chassis back in smoothly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 23
The power button cable is stuck to the shell with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
- Warm up that power button cable with an iOpener or hair dryer.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy when you’re lifting that cable from the board. Gently peel it away and if the adhesive is acting stubborn, slide an opening pick underneath to help it along.
- Gently lift the power button cable with your fingers and detach it completely from the shell. You've got this!
- When putting everything back together, grab some thin double-sided adhesive to keep that cable in place. If there's any sticky adhesive left, feel free to reuse it! And if you've got a new cable, just check for any pre-installed adhesive and peel off those liners before you stick it down.
Step 25
- Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let's tackle those four 5.5 mm-long screws holding down the power button board. You've got this!
Step 26
- Take out the power button board.
Step 27
The USB board cable is held in place with some gentle adhesive, like it's giving the shell a hug. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Grab your iOpener or trusty hair dryer and give that USB board cable a nice warm hug!
Tools Used
Step 28
Take it easy when you're lifting the cable from its cozy spot on the board. Gently peel it back, and if the adhesive is being stubborn, just slide an opening pick underneath to help things along.
- Gently use your fingers to lift the USB board cable away from the shell, giving it a good separation.
- When putting everything back together, grab some thin double-sided adhesive to keep that cable in place. If there's any sticky adhesive left over, feel free to use it again! If you've got a fresh cable, just double-check for any pre-installed adhesive and peel off those liners.
Step 29
- Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let's tackle those two 8.9 mm-long screws holding the USB board enclosure in place:
- You'll find one screw nestled inside the shell, just waiting for your attention.
- The other screw is hanging out on the bottom of the shell (where the base was), ready to be removed.
Step 30
- Gently slide the USB board enclosure out from under the metal clip securing it to the shell.
- Remove the enclosure.
- While reassembling:
- Ensure the Pair button is properly oriented and fully inserted into its slot.
- Firmly slide the enclosure into place until it snaps under the metal clip.
- If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 31
- You're left with just the shell now.
- Compare your new shell with the old one—you might need to transfer some parts or peel off adhesive backings. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
0 Comment