Month: July 2025

– Power down your device completely and disconnect all cables. Keep it unplugged and off while you get ready for the next step.

– Grab a suction handle and place it snugly near the middle of the lower edge of the back cover, making sure to get as close to the edge as you can.

– Give that suction handle a good, firm tug until you see a little gap pop up between the cover and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Slide the tip of your trusty opening pick into that gap you’ve just created. Keep it steady!

– The back cover is held in place by some sticky adhesive all around the edge of the frame. Check out this image as a guide while you work to peel away that adhesive!

– Gently glide your opening pick along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive that’s holding the back cover in place. You’ve got this!

– Keep gliding your pick around the whole edge of the back cover to break free all that last sticky stuff.

– Start by removing the back cover. During reassembly, it’s a smart move to power on your device and run through all functions before sealing everything back up—just to make sure everything’s working. Remember to fully shut down the device before you continue. Take a moment to check your rear cameras for any smudges and give them a gentle wipe with a clean, lint-free cloth if needed. When applying the new back cover adhesive, align it carefully with either the frame or the back cover—use the cutouts and contours to find the best fit. If the adhesive lines up with the back cover, follow this guide; if it matches the frame, follow that guide instead. For more complex steps or if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up to disconnect the wireless charging assembly press connector from its top edge. You’re doing great!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the eleven 2.8 mm screws holding down the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly.

– Grab those angled tweezers and gently lift up the loudspeaker from the notch on its left side. You’ve got this!

– When putting everything back together, make sure to press down firmly around the edges of the loudspeaker to snap those clips back into place. You’ve got the skills!

– Grab your device with both hands and gently lift out the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly. You’ve got this!

– Shut down your phone all the way and disconnect any cables—let’s give it a proper nap before we dive in!

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a little heat love. Place it right on the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes. This will help loosen that stubborn adhesive so you can carry on with your repair adventure!

– Grab a suction handle and place it right in the middle of the bottom edge of the back cover, getting as close to the edge as you can. You’ve got this!

– Give a good, steady pull on that suction handle until you see a little gap open up between the cover and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Now, slide the tip of your opening pick into that gap and get ready to work your magic.

– The back cover is stuck in place with some adhesive running all around the frame. Check out this image as a guide to help you peel away the adhesive like a pro!

– Gently glide your opening pick along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep gliding your pick along the whole edge of the back cover to break up any leftover adhesive.

– Take off the back cover to get started. During reassembly, it’s a good idea to power on your device and check all functions before sealing it back up. Just make sure to turn it off completely before moving forward. Give your rear cameras a quick wipe with a soft, lint-free cloth if they look smudgy—clear lenses make all the difference. When applying the new adhesive to the back cover or frame, use the cutouts and contours as your guide to ensure a perfect fit. Match the adhesive to the corresponding part—back cover or frame—and follow the appropriate guide. If you need a hand at any point, you can always schedule a repair to get professional help.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the wireless charging assembly’s press connector from its top edge. Easy does it—you’re just detaching a little connector to keep things moving smoothly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and loosen those eleven 2.8 mm screws holding in the wireless charging and speaker assembly. Keep it steady and remove them carefully—you’re one step closer to the inside. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab those angled tweezers and gently lift up the loudspeaker by the little notch on its left edge. You got this!

– When you’re putting it back together, make sure to press down firmly around the edges of the loudspeaker to make those clips snap into place. Easy peasy!

– Time to get a grip – literally! Use both hands to carefully lift and remove the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly.

– Grab your spudger and gently pry up the connector that links the battery press. Carefully disconnect it to keep everything safe and sound. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the USB‑C port cable’s press connector (that’s the one labeled MAIN) from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Grab your spudger and gently pop off the USB-C port cable’s press connector (labeled SUB) from the sub board.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and confidently unscrew those two 2.3 mm long screws that are keeping that USB-C port under wraps! It’s time to give your device the love and care it deserves.

– A touch of mild adhesive is holding the USB‑C port cable snugly to the sub board, right by that little white section below the SUB text. No biggie!

– Give that USB‑C port cable a warm hug with a heated iOpener for about two minutes to melt away the adhesive. You’ll be on your way to a smooth repair in no time!

– Gently lift the USB-C port cable off the sub board using your fingers—think of it as a delicate peel, not a rip. Take your time, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take your trusty spudger and gently insert the tip into one of the screw holes on the USB‑C port. Give it a little push to nudge the port away from the bottom edge of your device.

– Switch things up between the screw holes as you go, until that port slides out nice and easy from its snug little home.

– Check out your shiny new part and make sure it matches the original—you might need to move over a few bits or peel off any protective adhesives before you lock it in.

– To put everything back together, just reverse these steps and you’ll be up and running.

– When it’s time to part ways with your old electronics, drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and keep things green.

– If things didn’t go to plan, try some good old troubleshooting—or reach out to our Answers Community for some tips.

– Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair and we’ll get you sorted.

– First things first, let’s give your phone a little break. Power it down completely and unplug any cables hanging around.

– Grab a SIM eject tool, the right SIM bit, or even a trusty straightened paperclip and aim for the little hole next to your phone’s SIM card tray on the bottom edge.

– Give it a confident push—don’t be shy!—to pop out the SIM tray.

– Slide the SIM tray completely out of your phone.

– When it’s time to put the tray back in, just make sure the hole lines up on the left, then push it in until it fits snugly.

– Warm up your iOpener and place it gently on the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes. This will help soften that stubborn adhesive!

– Grab a suction handle and place it right in the middle of the bottom edge of the back cover. Make sure to get as close to the edge as you can!

– Give that suction handle a strong, steady pull until you see a little gap between the cover and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Now, slide the tip of your opening pick right into that gap. You’ve got this!

– The back cover is held in place with adhesive all along the edge of the frame. Use this photo to help guide you as you work your way around and gently separate the sticky stuff.

– Gently glide your opening pick along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep it smooth and steady, and you’ll be in the zone in no time!

– Keep gliding your pick all the way around the back cover to loosen up every last bit of adhesive.

– First up, let’s pop off that back cover. It’s time for some serious inner exploration!

– Now, while you’re putting everything back together:

– This is a great moment to power up your device and check if all the functions are working like a charm before you seal it up. Just remember to turn it off completely before diving back in to work on it.

– Give your rear cameras a quick once-over for any pesky smudges. If you spot any, take a clean lint-free cloth and gently wipe them away.

– When applying your new back cover adhesive, you’ll want to figure out whether it fits better on the frame or the back cover. Check the cutouts and contours to see where it aligns perfectly. If it coincides with the back cover, follow this guide. If it lines up with the frame, you’ll want to use this guide.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging assembly connector from the top—easy does it!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those eleven 2.8 mm-long screws holding the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab your angled tweezers and carefully lift and detach the loudspeaker from the notch on its left side. You got this!

– When putting everything back together, give the loudspeaker a good press around its edges to lock those clips in place. You’re almost done!

– Grab the assembly with both hands and gently lift it out to free the wireless charging and loudspeaker components. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the battery connector—just a little nudge gets it free!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the point under the USB‑C port cable’s press connector (it’s the one labeled MAIN) to lift it off the logic board with ease!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift to disconnect the USB‑C port cable’s press connector (look for the SUB marker) from the sub board. You’ve got this!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently remove the pair of 2.3 mm screws holding down the USB-C port. If you need assistance along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– A bit of gentle heat from a heated iOpener will loosen up that mild adhesive holding the USB‑C port cable to the sub board, right below the white section under the SUB text. Let it sit for about two minutes, giving the adhesive a chance to soften up and make your life easier. If you need a hand with any step, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the USB‑C port cable from the sub board using your fingers, like you’re peeling a banana—easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide it into one of the USB‑C port screw holes, giving the port a little nudge away from the bottom edge of your phone.

– Keep alternating between the screw holes as needed until the port smoothly pops out from its cozy spot.

– Grab the USB-C port by its cable and lift it out.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the interconnect cable press connector (labeled M) from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Now it’s time to carefully disconnect the interconnect cable press connector (marked S) from the sub board. Use the tip of a spudger to gently pry it up and release it.

– Let’s get to it! Gently disconnect the interconnect cable to keep things moving smoothly.

– Let’s get started! Use the point of a spudger to carefully loosen the small extension board near the top left corner of the sub board. Take your time and be gentle, we’re making progress!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s keeping the sub board in place. You’ve got this!

– Line up your new part with the original and check if you need to move any bits over or peel off any stickers before popping it in.

– To put everything back together, just follow these steps in reverse—like rewinding your favorite jam.

– Got leftover parts or busted bits? Drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards recycler to keep things green.

– If things aren’t working out, try some basic troubleshooting or swing by our Answers Community for a hand.

– Still stuck? No stress—you can always schedule a repair and let us handle it.

– Shut down your phone completely and disconnect any cables—give it a quick tech-nap before you get started!

– Grab a suction handle and place it right near the center of the bottom edge of that back cover, getting as close to the edge as you can. You’re doing great!

– Give that suction handle a good, steady pull until you spot a gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap to get things started.

– The back cover is held in place with adhesive all around the edge. Take a look at this picture while you work your way around and separate the sticky stuff.

– Glide your opening pick along the bottom edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive and free the back cover.

– Keep that pick moving around the entire edge of the back cover to break free all the remaining sticky stuff!

– Let’s get started! Remove the back cover to begin the repair process.

– Reassembly tip: take a moment to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Remember to power it back down completely before moving forward.

– Give your rear cameras a quick once-over and gently wipe away any smudges with a clean, lint-free cloth if needed.

– Now it’s time to apply the replacement back cover adhesive. Use the cutouts and contours to determine whether it lines up best with the frame or the back cover. If it matches the back cover, follow the corresponding guide. If it matches the frame, use the alternative guide.

– You’re doing great! If you need help or have any questions, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the wireless charging assembly press connector from the top edge. You’re almost there!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and remove the eleven 2.8 mm screws holding down the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly. Easy does it—just unscrew and set those aside. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your angled tweezers and gently nudge the loudspeaker up and off its perch using the notch on the left edge. You’ve got this!

– When you’re piecing everything back together, give the loudspeaker a solid press around its edges to make sure those clips snap back into place. You’re almost there!

– Grab that wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly with both hands and give it a gentle lift to remove it. You’re doing great!

– Gently pop up the battery connector with the pointy end of your spudger—just a little wiggle and it’ll come right off.

– Gently pop up the earpiece speaker press connector using the pointed end of your spudger—nice and easy does it!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and loosen up those five 2.8 mm screws holding the earpiece speaker in place. Once they’re out, you’re on your way to the next step. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently pop the earpiece speaker free from the center of its bottom edge using the flat end of your spudger. It’s like opening a tiny treasure chest—just a little leverage and you’re in.

– When you’re putting it back together, press down all around the edge of the speaker to snap those clips back in place. Give it a little love tap; you’ll hear the satisfying click when it’s secure.

– Carefully lift out the earpiece speaker to get it out of the way. If you need a hand with the repair, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab the point of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the screen, USB‑C, and interconnect cable press connectors (that’s three in total) from the logic board. Easy does it—this is the way to keep things safe and sound.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the 5G mmWave antenna and front camera press connectors—nice and easy, just like opening a bag of chips.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove those two 2.8 mm screws holding the rear cameras in place. Easy peasy—just a couple of turns, and you’re on your way. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the top edge of the logic board. Lift it up just enough so you can get a good grip on the edges with your fingers.

– Once you’ve got a solid hold on the board, carefully lift it out. Just watch out for any cables that might want to tag along!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure those sneaky cables aren’t getting trapped under the logic board. You can use the spudger to keep them out of the way while you lower it into place.

– Keep the logic board elevated just above your work surface while you work on the cameras—avoid pressing it down against the surface to prevent damaging those delicate parts.

– Use the tip of a spudger to gently pry up and disconnect both rear camera press connectors.

– Gently lift the rear cameras off the logic board. Make sure you’ve got a steady hand—these parts are delicate, but you’re totally up for it.

– When putting everything back together, line up your new part with the old one for a quick side-by-side check. Look out for any plastic films, sticky bits, or covers that need to come off before reassembly.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently coax away the thermal paste from both the logic board and the frame. You’ve got this!

– Drip a couple drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol onto a cotton swab—don’t be shy, but don’t go swimming in it either.

– Gently wipe away the leftover thermal paste from the vapor chamber using your swab, refreshing with more alcohol as needed. Keep going until it’s squeaky clean!

– Alright, let’s compare your shiny new replacement part with the original—don’t forget to transfer any sneaky components or peel off those adhesive backings before diving into the installation!

– To wrap things up, just follow these steps in reverse to reassemble your device. Easy peasy!

– Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s the responsible thing to do!

– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped, no worries! Give troubleshooting a shot or reach out for some friendly help from our community. We’ve got your back!

– And hey, if you find yourself stuck on any of these tricky steps, you can always schedule a repair with us!

– Time to get started! Completely shut down your phone, and don’t forget to unplug all those cables.

– Warm up your iOpener and place it along the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This helps loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Grab a suction handle and place it snugly near the center of the bottom edge of the back cover, as close to that edge as you can get!

– Give that suction handle a good yank upwards with some solid force – you’re aiming for a gap to appear between the cover and frame, so keep at it!

– Now it’s time to get a little picky – literally! Take your trusty opening pick and slide the tip into the gap you just created.

– The back cover is stuck on with adhesive all around the edge of the frame. Check out this photo to see exactly where the sticky spots are as you work your way around.

– Gently slide your opening pick along the bottom edge to loosen the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep your movements steady and patient—this helps prevent any cracks or damage. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Keep that pick moving along the edges of the back cover, gently working your way around to break free all the stubborn adhesive still holding it in place.

– Start by removing the back cover to get access to the inside. During reassembly, it’s a smart move to power on your device and give everything a quick check—make sure all functions are working before sealing it back up. Just remember to power it all the way down again before you finish up. Take a moment to inspect your rear cameras for any smudges or fingerprints; a gentle wipe with a clean, lint-free cloth should do the trick. When applying the new adhesive for the back cover, target either the frame or the back cover itself—use the cutouts and contours to line everything up perfectly. If the adhesive matches the back cover, follow the corresponding guide; if it lines up with the frame, go that route. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Take your spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging assembly press connector from the top edge. Nice and easy does it!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the eleven 2.8 mm screws holding down the wireless charging pad and loudspeaker assembly.

– Grab those angled tweezers and gently pry up the loudspeaker by its left edge notch—it’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey there!’

– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure to press down firmly around the loudspeaker’s perimeter to snap those clips back into place. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty hands and gently lift away the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the battery press connector up to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the five 2.8 mm long screws holding down the earpiece speaker. Keep those screws safe—you’ll need them to reassemble later. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently pop the earpiece speaker out by sliding the flat end of a spudger under the center of its bottom edge and prying upward.

– When putting it back, press all around the edges of the earpiece speaker to snap those clips back into place.

– Gently lift up and take out the earpiece speaker.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift to disconnect the screen, USB-C, and interconnect cable press connectors (that’s three in total!) from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently pry up the 5G mmWave antenna and front camera press connectors using the tip of a spudger. Take your time to disconnect them carefully—patience makes perfect.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the two 2.8 mm-long screws holding down the rear cameras.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently nudge up the top edge of the logic board until you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.

– Hold onto the edges of the board and lift it out slowly—watch for any cables trying to tag along for the ride.

– When putting everything back together, make sure those cables don’t get trapped under the logic board. Use your spudger to keep them clear and in their lane.

– Gently lift the logic board above your workspace while you tackle the cameras—just a heads up, pressing it down could hurt those delicate components!

– Grab your spudger and carefully use its point to pop up and disconnect both rear camera press connectors.

– Gently take those rear cameras off the logic board and set them aside.

– As you put everything back together, give your new part a side-by-side comparison with the original. Don’t forget, you might need to peel off some plastic liners, adhesive backings, or protective covers to make it fit just right.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently scoop away as much of the old thermal paste as you can—think of it as cleaning up after a wild thermal paste party.

– Grab a cotton swab and put one or two drops of some potent (>90%) isopropyl alcohol on it.

– Now, use that swab to gently wipe away the leftover thermal paste from the vapor chamber. If your swab gets a bit dry, feel free to add a little more alcohol to keep things smooth!

– Take a moment to compare your shiny new replacement part with the original. You might need to swap over some components or peel off those adhesive backings before diving into the installation!

– To get your device back in action, simply retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to say goodbye to your e-waste, make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s the right thing to do!

– Uh-oh! If your repair didn’t go as planned, don’t sweat it. Try some basic troubleshooting, or check out our Answers Community for a helping hand!

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– Turn off your phone all the way and disconnect any cables or chargers hanging around.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes to loosen up that sticky adhesive. It’s like giving your phone a mini spa treatment before you dive in.

– Grab a suction handle and place it right in the middle of the back cover’s bottom edge, getting as close to the edge as you can. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the suction handle with a firm, even pull until you notice a gap between the cover and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Slide the tip of your opening pick into that gap you created. Keep going, you’re almost there!

– The back cover is held in place with adhesive all around the edge. Check out this picture while you work your way around and loosen things up.

– Gently glide your opening pick along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep gliding that pick around the entire edge of the back cover, working to detach any leftover adhesive. You’re doing great!

– First, let’s get that back cover off. It’s time to see what’s inside!

– When you’re putting it all back together, remember:

– Now’s the perfect time to power on your phone and test everything out. Make sure it’s all working smoothly before you seal it up. Don’t forget to power it back down completely before moving on.

– Take a quick look at your rear cameras and give them a gentle wipe with a clean, lint-free cloth if they’re looking a bit smudgy.

– Your new back cover adhesive will either go on the frame or the back cover itself. Use the cutouts and contours to figure out where it fits best. If it matches up with the back cover, follow the guide for that. If it matches the frame, use the other guide.

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge it under the wireless charging assembly press connector at the top edge. Give it a little pry to disconnect it. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those eleven 2.8 mm-long screws holding the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab those angled tweezers and gently pry up the loudspeaker from the notch on its left edge. It’s like giving it a little lift!

– When you’re putting it all back together, make sure to press down firmly around the edges of the loudspeaker to snap those clips back in place. You’ve got this!

– Time to get a grip – literally! Use both hands to carefully lift and remove the wireless charging and loudspeaker assembly.