Month: July 2025

– Slide a fingernail or plastic opening tool into the notch just to the left of the rear camera. Gently pry and twist to lift the flexible rear cover away from the back of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide a fingernail or a trusty plastic opening tool into the little gap at the bottom right corner of the battery and give it a lift. You’ve got this!

– Carefully pull the battery away from the phone. Easy peasy!

– Gently slide your fingertip down to pop the microSD card out of its slot.

– Take out the microSD card and set it aside for safekeeping.

– Go ahead and repeat the previous steps to safely pop out the SIM card.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry up that plastic midframe connector panel—think of it as coaxing it to come out and play!

– Once you’ve got it loose, use a pair of tweezers to lift out the connector panel. It’s like a delicate dance, so take your time!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, there should be enough adhesive to stick the panel back on. If it’s feeling a bit shy, just add a tiny bit of double-stick tape for support!

– Now it’s time to carefully pry the home button cable connector straight up off its socket using the sharp tip of a spudger. Take your time and be gentle, you’ve got this!

– Warm up your iOpener and let it hang out on the left edge of your phone for a solid 90 seconds.

– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then move it over to the right side for equal treatment.

– Slide the edge of your trusty opening pick beneath the bottom right corner of the front glass and get ready to make some magic happen.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the right edge of the display.

– Gently glide that pick around the corner, but hold up right before you hit the speaker grille at the top of the phone!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone, taking care not to push it in too far.

– Gently maneuver that pick around the upper left corner like a pro!

– Gently slide the opening pick down the left side of your phone, taking a little pause when you reach the lower left corner.

– Glide the opening pick all the way down to the bottom left corner of your phone—make sure it’s snug and holding strong.

– Grab that warmed-up iOpener and gently place it on the bottom part of your display assembly. You’ve got this!

– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the display to break free the last bits of stubborn adhesive. Time to set that screen loose!

– Give that opening pick a twist to gently pop the glass away from your phone. You’ve got this!

– Slide an opening pick under the soft button icons on the display, and gently nudge those button cables away from the inside of the front panel.

– Carefully pry up the display assembly from the home button end, but don’t completely remove it just yet.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the front panel assembly cable connector straight up and away from its cozy home on the motherboard.

– Carefully lift the front panel assembly off the phone, making sure to do it safely.

– If your shiny new display is missing a home button, no worries! Check out our Home Button Assembly guide to swap your old button onto the new display or pop in a brand new one.

– Time to get your tools ready! Unscrew those ten 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display side of the midframe. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get started by removing the two 4.4 mm Phillips #000 screws located near the USB port on the battery side of your phone – this will help you gain access to the inside

– Next, take out the single 4.4 mm Phillips #000 screw, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device

– Take your trusty plastic opening tool and gently glide it down the left inner side of the interior frame. This will help you pop open those three white plastic clips with ease!

– Carefully flex the long sides of the silver bezel outward to pop apart the two halves of the midframe.

– Move on to the right side of the silver bezel and gently pull it away from the inside part of the midframe—just keep going until the two halves come apart.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently work it into the corners of that shiny silver bezel. It’s time to pop those last stubborn bits free!

– Gently lift out the interior midframe and motherboard assembly from the white inner midframe, like you’re unveiling a surprise gift!

– Let’s get started by removing the single 3.0 mm Phillips #00 screw that holds the motherboard in place to the midframe.

– Gently pull the motherboard away from the midframe just enough to reach the connectors on the back. Don’t yank it all the way out just yet!

– Rest the motherboard on a clean, flat surface. Use one hand to steady the inside of the midframe, so your other hand is free to work some motherboard magic.

– Gently pop the front-facing camera connector straight up from its spot on the motherboard using the flat end of a spudger—think of it as giving the connector a little lift.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully remove the front-facing camera from the motherboard. Easy does it!

– Pop in a fingernail or grab a plastic opening tool and slide it into the little groove next to the rear-facing camera.

– Carefully nudge and twist to detach the flexible rear cover from the back of your phone. You’ve got this!

– Slide a fingernail or a plastic opening tool into the little groove at the bottom right corner of the battery and gently pry it up.

– Lift the battery out and set it aside.

– Gently use your fingertip to slide the microSD card straight down and out of its slot.

– Carefully take the microSD card out of the phone.

– Follow the same steps as before to carefully remove the SIM card. Keep it smooth and steady—you’re doing great!

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pop up the plastic midframe connector panel.

– Use tweezers to lift the panel out—easy does it.

– When putting things back together, the original adhesive should do the trick, but if it’s not sticking, a bit of double-sided tape will keep everything in place.

– Grab that trusty spudger’s pointy end and gently lift the home button cable connector straight up from its socket. Keep it careful and steady—no rush needed. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty heated iOpener and set it down on the left side of your phone for a solid 90 seconds. Let that heat do its magic!

– Give that iOpener another round of heat, then place it on the right half of your phone. We’re almost there!

– Slide the tip of your opening pick under the bottom right corner of the front glass—like you’re sneaking a backstage pass.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the right edge of the display.

– Gently glide the pick around the corner, pausing just before reaching the speaker grille at the top of the phone.

– Glide the opening pick along the top edge of your phone—keep it shallow, no deep dives!

– Glide your pick with style around that upper left corner—nice and easy!

– Gently glide that opening pick down the left side of your phone, stopping just shy of the lower left corner. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide that opening pick all the way down to the bottom left corner of your phone, and make sure it’s snug in there like it belongs!

– Grab your reheated iOpener and lay it across the bottom part of the screen. Give it a minute to work its magic on that adhesive.

– Glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to gently free up the last bits of stubborn adhesive.

– Give that opening pick a little twist to pop the glass off your phone like a pro!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the soft button icons on the display. Once you’re in, carefully lift the button cables away from the inside of the front panel like a pro!

– Gently lift the home button end of the display assembly, but leave it attached for now. You’re doing great!

– Ready to put everything back together? Just follow these steps in reverse and your device will be good as new.

– If you run into trouble or want the pros to handle it, you can always schedule a repair.

– Ready for some serious tech tinkering? Here’s the gear you’re working with:

– 5.1” Super AMOLED display (1920 x 1080, 432 ppi)

– 16 MP main camera with 4K video at 30 fps; 2 MP front camera with 1080p video and wide-angle lens

– Sensors include fingerprint, heart rate, and gesture controls

– 2.5 GHz quad-core Snapdragon 801 processor, 2 GB LPDDR3 RAM

– 16 or 32 GB internal storage, plus microSD support up to 128 GB

– LTE, NFC, Bluetooth 4.0 BLE, Micro-USB 3.0, and 802.11/ac MIMO Wi-Fi networking

– Scanning the area… No signs of life detected—unless you count the gadgets that know you better than your friends do.

– With fingerprint readers and gesture sensors galore, this phone’s clearly been hanging out with some high-tech company. Oh, and let’s not forget those mystery dimples.

– Check out this shiny Micro-B USB 3.0 port—looking good!

– Back cover’s off and we’re already staring at the battery. Not a tear in sight, just smooth progress.

– Getting the back off is honestly easier than peeling a banana. All you need is a thumb and a bit of determination.

– Wait, where’s the battery? Guess we’re going on a little hunt.

– People might not love the case design, but we’re giving bonus points for how easy it is to pop the back off.

– No need to go on an intergalactic adventure to find the back case—it’s right there, easy to access.

– That odd shape in the case? It’s not some alien artifact—it’s a rubber gasket. Samsung kept it simple with their water and dust resistance, avoiding the more complicated solutions.

– Take a moment to check out the warnings as we carefully unwrap the battery from its sleek packaging.

– Here we have a 3.85 V, 10.78 Wh battery. Samsung proudly mentioned a better battery-saving mode, but didn’t spill the beans on how long this beauty lasts in their ads—just a spec of 2800 mAh.

– Let’s pop in the new battery! And then, just for fun, we’ll take it right back out. This teardown has some exciting places to explore, and they’re tucked under that battery pack.

– This battery is a nice little upgrade from the S4’s 3.8 V and 2600 mAh (9.88 Wh) battery. It’s touted for about 7 hours of talk time and can hold on for up to 12.5 days on standby.

– For those counting at home, that took just 10 seconds! Not too shabby, right?

– Samsung’s got a cool trick up its sleeve—yep, the microSD + SIM card combo deck.

– ‘Galaxy S5’ might have the flashier ring, but if you’re hunting for the proper name, SM-G900A is your target.

– What surprises wait behind door R1?

– Right now, looks like just a bunch of random connectors—definitely not the screws we wanted. Stick with us; there’s more to this story coming up…

– Well, it looks like we’re in a bit of a pickle! The S5’s predecessor, the S4, jumped onto the teardown table like a droid ready for a spa day.

– However, this time around, the entire display assembly is throwing a wrench in our tinkering plans.

– With no other options left, we’re bringing in our trusty sidekicks: the iOpener and Opening Pick—better known in the streets as Heat and Force.

– Things are looking a bit rough. What’s up, Samsung? I thought we were pals!

– Have you been spending too much time with the Kindle Fire HDX?

– Time for the last big pry—

– Once you’ve worked your way around the cable with your spudger, it’s time to start freeing the display assembly. Samsung clearly loves making things interesting by making this a glass-first adventure.

– …figures. Another cable in the way.

– Now that the display is off, it’s time to gently persuade it to let go of its home button. Our trusty plastic opening tool is here to help with that!

– Wave goodbye to the sticky adhesive tape that was holding the screen in place. When you put your display back, you’ll want to grab a fresh set of adhesive to keep it secure.

– This little display assembly cable has quite a few connections to manage. Thankfully, it has the support of a Synaptics S5100A touchscreen controller to help things along.

– Well, Samsung really kept us on our toes with this one. Turns out, the screws we need are hiding out on the opposite side of the phone. Classic move.

– Now, here’s where things get a little wild with Galaxy part names. Essentially, we’re taking off the midframe from… another midframe. Not confusing at all, right?

– Yeah, we were scratching our heads, too.

– So, here’s the scoop: once the rear case is off, you find a midframe. Between that first midframe and the display assembly? Surprise—there’s yet another midframe. Double the frames, double the fun.

– Alright, let’s summarize what we’ve got here:

– We’re on a first-name basis with our buddies: the headphone jack, the speaker, the buttons, and more.

– On the left side, we’ve got the interior midframe housing the motherboard and daughterboard.

– On the right side, enjoy the exterior midframe, packed with a bunch of spring-contacted components.

– Crisis averted on identity. Now, will we tackle repairability? Stay tuned…

– Guess what? That mysterious connector from earlier is actually the home button cable—plot twist!

– You’ll also spot the familiar fingerprint scanner gear here. The control chip is stamped 1200P E43F2.

– Right in the heart of the Galaxy, we’ve discovered the motherboard black hole. With our hard work paying off, we carefully extract it and begin our quest for signs of smarts.

– Our first clue arrives through the camera.

– Eager for a face-off, we grab our trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry it out for a closer inspection.

– On the left, check out Samsung’s 16MP rear camera, rocking a 1/2.6” sensor.

– Right next to it is the selfie camera, clocking in at 2.0MP—perfect for quick snaps.

– Tucked behind the main camera is its trusty sidekick: the QDA41 L1010 R412 control chip.

– The wide-angle lens on this camera captures crisp 1920 x 1080 video, so your memories are looking sharp.

– Some galaxies are filled with stars, and others are packed with chips:

– Elpida FA164A2PM – This is the same slick 2 GB RAM package we spotted in the HTC One (M8), and it’s different from the 2 GB Samsung chip that Chipworks dug up. You’ve got a quad-core 2.5 GHz CPU probably hanging out underneath, ready to rock.

– Samsung KLMAG2GEAC-B0 16 GB on-board memory

– Avago ACPM-7617 multi-mode, multi-band RF front end

– Murata KM4220004 (probably your Wi-Fi module)

– 1412 (C1N75R UMR3) (C1N78B YMP4)

– Maxim Integrated MAX77804K (System PSoC) and MAX77826

– STMicroelectronics 32A M410

– Check out the SWEP GRG28 antenna switch module—this little guy keeps your signal strong.

– Next up, the Qualcomm WTR1625L RF transceiver, making an encore appearance from the HTC One M8.

– Don’t miss the Qualcomm WFR1620, the receive-only chip that’s always listening for signals.

– Meet the Qualcomm PMC8974, your power management superstar.

– The Lattice iCE40 LP1K brings low-power FPGA magic to the mix.

– Stay steady with the Invensense MP65M (MPU-6500M) gyroscope and accelerometer combo.

– For smooth audio, there’s the Qualcomm WCD9320 codec.

– And finally, the SIMG 8240B0 mobile HD-link transmitter plus the NXP 47803 NFC controller gets your device talking to everything else.

– Now that we’ve cleared the motherboard, we’re left with just our little buddy, the daughter board. Don’t worry, it’s not as lonely as it sounds!

– This daughter board is the secret hideout for the charging port! A closer look reveals it’s also got cables for the bottom buttons and a few nifty ICs hanging out:

– Cypress CY8C20075-24LKXI, our trusty CapSense capacitive touch-sensing controller

– RFMD RF1119, the antenna controller keeping us connected

– S1221, the primary microphone, ready to hear your glorious voice

– The Samsung Galaxy S5 has a repairability score of 5 out of 10 (with 10 being the easiest to fix).

– Getting to the battery? Super simple! It’s a breeze to pop out and swap in.

– The display is now one of the first things you’ll tackle, making it a bit quicker to replace. Just a heads up: it’s stuck in there with quite a bit of adhesive, so you’ll need to be gentle and patient with your prying skills. A little heat will help, but be cautious to avoid cracking the glass or cutting any cables.

– Once you crack the case open, you’ll find several components that are modular and pretty straightforward to change out, like the cameras, headphone jack, vibrator motor, and speakers.

– Just a small catch: if you’re replacing anything other than the battery, you’ll need to remove the display first. It’s a bit of a delicate dance, and there’s some risk of causing more damage along the way.

– This snazzy new device has some serious style! Check out these awesome upgrades:

– 5.1″ Super AMOLED capacitive touchscreen (1440 x 2560, ~577 ppi, 16M colors) – your eyes will thank you!

– Samsung Exynos 7 Octa 7420 Processor with integrated Mali-T760 GPU and a cool 3 GB of memory to keep things zipping along.

– 16 MP rear camera with HDR, LED Flash, and the ability to record in stunning 4K video. Your selfies are about to get a serious upgrade!

– Built-in support for Qi and Powermat wireless charging, so say goodbye to tangled cords.

– Choose from 32/64/128 GB storage options (just a heads up, there’s no microSD slot, but you’re gonna love it!).

– Corning Gorilla Glass 4 backing – because your phone deserves to be tough!

– The Edge has arrived, and we’re definitely digging the vibes. With its smooth curves and crisp display, the S6 feels like you’re holding a tiny luxury pool in your hand.

– Take a look from either side and you’ll spot the Edge’s info stream, sliding your news, weather, and notifications right onto the edge of your screen.

– Check out the proximity and gesture sensors, plus the front-facing camera—all tucked neatly behind the Edge’s Gorilla Glass.

– …with one catch: it’s not the most comfortable to hold, and it loves collecting fingerprints like it’s a hobby.

– The phone’s key features sit along the edges—like the speaker, microphone, audio jack, and USB 2.0 port—ready for action. Down below, the heart rate monitor peeks out just below the LED flash, conveniently next to the rear camera. Up on the top edge, you’ll find another microphone, along with the IR blaster and the SIM tray, all hanging out and doing their thing. It’s a familiar layout, but heads up: some folks are already noticing issues with the sensor. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Alright, let’s flip this sleek gadget over and check out the back! We’ve spotted the model number—SM-G925T—and it’s time to tackle that back cover.

– The rear panel is stuck on there like it’s in a strong relationship—very tight and super glued in! Even after we carefully worked on the adhesive, we had to bring in our Heavy Duty Suction Cup to sneak in an opening pick. Not the easiest task, but we’re up for the challenge!

– Remember the good old days when Samsung made battery replacements a breeze? Those were the days—RIP to those user-friendly designs.

– Our trusty Opening Picks are key to uncovering the secrets inside your Edge.

– With a bit of assistance from our iOpener buddy—and a healthy dose of patience—we’ll skillfully navigate around the edges.

– The back panel is mostly off now! What lies beneath is a bit sticky… but don’t worry, we’ve got this covered.

– Even our slim picks find it a challenge to tackle the edges of this glass.

– A little persuasion and some muscle, and the glued-down panel pops right off the phone.

– With the panel out of the way, the adhesive comes off the glass pretty smoothly, though it leaves a bit of sticky mess behind on the metal midframe.

– When we heard the S6/S6 Edge had a glass panel, we had a retro flashback to 2011. But after putting it through its paces, it turns out glass has toughened up a lot in four years.

– Just like in every previous Galaxy phone—including the notoriously tricky Galaxy S5 from last year—this is the moment where we get to elegantly pop out the battery with a simple fingernail.

– Our trusty sidekicks, the screwdriver and plastic opening tool, are ready to lend a hand. Thankfully, it seems we’ve said goodbye to the adhesive drama—the midframe comes off quite smoothly, revealing all the exciting components waiting just beneath the surface.

– Now that we’ve sent the midframe on its way, we’re treated to a sneak peek of the battery and motherboard. How exciting!

– The midframe is a treasure trove—filled with all sorts of fun components, including a bunch of spring contacts, an NFC/wireless charging coil, and a speaker. What a delight!

– While we’re itching to pop that battery out and take a closer look, for now, we’ll just disconnect it from the motherboard. Patience is key!

– At this stage, we’re used to accessing expandable memory via a MicroSD card. But wait—where did it go? Oh right, Samsung decided to make it a no-show. If you’re in need of extra storage, make sure to grab it at the outset; you won’t be able to add it later.

– Check out those labeled antennas on the midframe—adorable, right?

– It turns out the antennas are snugly welded to the midframe using ultrasonic welding. This not only keeps everything stable but also saves some precious space.

– Oh, and we stumbled upon a little void in the midframe for the power button. It’s like a tiny portal waiting for action!

– Almost there! With all the connectors popped, the motherboard is nearly free from the display – and we’re seeing that same quirky IO board connection we first spotted in the Galaxy S5.

– Now, let’s gently remove the main camera from the motherboard to get a closer look at the hardware on its PCB:

– Check out how the 16 MP OIS rear-facing camera dwarfs the 5 MP selfie cam – quite a size difference!

– We’ve got a Winbond W25Q32FW Serial Flash Memory chip on our hands

– And look, an InvenSense IDG-2030 dual-axis gyroscope for optical image stabilization – nice!

– Let’s check out what’s under the hood on the front side of the motherboard—Samsung is definitely flexing its in-house chip game here. You’ll spot:

– Samsung Exynos 7420 Octa-core Processor (64-bit, 2.1 GHz Quad + 1.5 GHz Quad) paired up with 3 GB LPDDR4 RAM (K3RG3G30MM-DGCH)

– Samsung KLUBG4G1BD 32GB NAND Flash for your storage needs

– Skyworks 78041 Hybrid Multimode Multiband (MMMB) Front-End Module (FEM) keeping your connections smooth

– Avago AFEM-9020 PAM working its magic

– Wolfson Microelectronics WM1840 Audio Codec teamed up with a Maxim MAX98505 Class DG Audio Amplifier—sound check, anyone?

– Samsung N5DDPS3, which is likely the NFC Controller (looks a lot like its cousin from the S6)

– InvenSense MP65M 6-Axis Accel + Gyro for all your tilting and twisting, plus a Samsung C2N89U (probably your image processor)

– Flipping over the motherboard reveals a treasure trove of control hardware and a bunch of power management ICs that are just waiting to be discovered:

– Samsung Shannon 928 RF Transceiver

– Broadcom BCM4773 GNSS Location Hub

– Avago ACPM-7007 PAM

– Maxim MAX77843 Companion PMIC

– Various Samsung Shannon PMICs

– Glass back? Glued-in battery? Samsung’s clearly taking notes from the competition.

– But the Apple playbook stops there—no pull tabs to bail you out. Time to tackle that stubborn adhesive, peeling it away strip by strip. Slow and steady wins this sticky race!

– With the sticky stuff out of the way, we can get a clearer view of the 3.85 V, 10.01 Wh battery.

– Samsung says the Edge’s battery should keep you going for 12 hours of LTE web browsing, 26 hours of 3G talk time, and up to 58 hours of music.

– And it’s fresh off the presses! Seriously, check out the date!

– Samsung has downgraded from the 2800 mAh battery in the Galaxy S5 to a 2600 mAh one, just like the S4.

– Looks like the Galaxy S6 Edge took a step back from the lightning-fast Micro-B USB 3.0 port found on the Galaxy S5, switching to the more common microUSB 2.0. No worries—this is a straightforward change, but it’s worth noting if you’re planning your repair or upgrade. If you need a hand with anything tricky along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Time to give the Edge a little warm-up session in an iOpener nest – fingers crossed the adhesive will loosen up nicely!

– Now, let’s carefully lift the glass and… hmm, is that supposed to happen?

– Whoops, looks like we accidentally separated the display a bit while trying to pry into the curved part. No big deal, let’s keep moving!

– This phone display is pretty flexible! Peeling it back reveals how Samsung’s display curves smoothly around the edges of the device. On the back of the screen, you’ll find the usual touchscreen controller—this time, an STMicro FT6BH. Keep your cool and take it step by step, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– First up, it’s time to liberate the modular home button from the display assembly. It’s the last piece to come off, so give it your best shot!

– And guess what? Unlike the S5, we’re skipping the secret trap doors this time. No hidden surprises here!

– Thanks to the new approach that tosses aside the display-out-first antics from last year, we’ve got a fresh route to the home button. Is it better? Well, that’s up for debate. But hey, at least it’s probably not worse!

– Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Repairability Score: 3 out of 10 (with 10 being the easiest fix out there).

– You’ll find lots of modular parts inside, so some stuff can be swapped out on its own.

– Unlike the S5, you don’t need to peel off the display just to get inside and reach the motherboard. Nice upgrade!

– Both the front and back are glass—double the potential for cracks, and the back glass is stuck down with some seriously stubborn adhesive, so opening it up is a real challenge.

– The battery’s glued tight to the back of the display, and it’s hidden under both the midframe and motherboard.

– Swapping out just the glass without damaging the display is going to test your patience and skills. If that sounds like a headache, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a paper clip or SIM eject tool and find the tiny hole in the SIM card slot on top of your phone.

– Gently press the paper clip into that hole until the SIM tray pops out a bit.

– Carefully pull out the SIM card tray from your device to get to the SIM card.

– Pop your iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s about to star in its own cooking show.

– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your repair buddy!

– As you tackle your repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to chill out, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Let’s keep the heat going!

– Carefully lift the iOpener out of the microwave, holding onto one of the flat ends—avoid the hot center to stay safe and cool. If you need a hand or want to get this sorted quickly, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely dunk that iOpener!

– Turn up the heat and bring the water to a nice rolling boil. Then, switch off the heat.

– Gently drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use some tongs to safely fish out your warm iOpener from the water.

– Give it a good dry with a towel, ensuring it’s nice and ready to go.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little reheating, just repeat the boiling process for another 2-3 minutes.

– Warm up that iOpener and place it on the back panel for about two minutes to help loosen up the sticky stuff around the glass edges.

– Once that’s done, move the iOpener to the next section and give it another two minutes of heat to make sure everything is nice and cozy.

– Once the rear glass is feeling warm and toasty, grab a suction cup and place it near the bottom edge of that glass.

– Gently pull up on the suction cup to create a little gap under the rear glass, then slide an opening pick into that gap.

– Gently glide that pick along the bottom edge of your phone to cut through the sticky stuff holding that rear glass in place!

– Now it’s time to get the other three sides of the phone loose – just repeat the heating and cutting process you’ve already mastered!

– As you work your way around, leave an opening pick under each edge to keep the adhesive from sneaking back in and causing trouble.

– Grab your trusty opening pick and carefully slice through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging on.

– Time to say goodbye to the rear glass—gently remove it and reveal what’s inside!

– Installing new rear glass? Let’s get to it!

– If you’re putting the old rear glass back on or working with glass that doesn’t have adhesive already, here’s what you need to do.

– Use tweezers to carefully remove any leftover adhesive from the phone’s frame.

– Clean the surface where the adhesive will go with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one smooth direction—don’t go back and forth. This preps the surface perfectly for the new adhesive.

– Now, peel off the backing from the new adhesive on the rear glass, carefully align one edge of the glass with the phone’s frame, and press down firmly to stick it in place.

– Take out the thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the midframe in place. Keep them safe—these little guys are essential for reassembly. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now it’s time to get a little aggressive – gently, of course! Press down on the back of the battery and lift up on the edges of the midframe. This will help you separate it from the rest of the phone. Take your time and be patient, it’s a delicate process.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop the battery ribbon cable off the motherboard. Easy does it!

– Gently unplug the home button ribbon cable from the motherboard—just a smooth disconnect, no wrestling moves required!

– Grab your trusty spudger and let its pointed end work its magic by gently disconnecting those two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get started! Carefully disconnect the display ribbon cable from the motherboard using the flat end of your trusty spudger.

– Gently unplug the earpiece ribbon cable from the motherboard—easy does it, no tug-of-war required!

– Hold onto the motherboard by its edges near the top of the device, just like you’re giving it a high-five!

– Gently lift the motherboard upwards and away from the display. Just a friendly reminder—don’t pull too hard on that daughterboard ribbon cable; we want to keep it happy!

– Flip the motherboard over and gently unplug the daughterboard ribbon cable from underneath.

– Grab the vibrator motor with a pair of blunt nose tweezers and gently wiggle it back and forth to loosen it from the adhesive.

– Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse, and you’ll be golden.

– If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop your iOpener right in the middle of the microwave—front and center!

– Give that iOpener a quick zap in the microwave for thirty seconds!

– As you work through the repair, remember to keep the iOpener cozy. When it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds at a time.

– Time to get started! Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends to avoid the hot center. Handle with care!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat. No need to keep it bubbling.

– Drop your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely underwater.

– Use some tongs to fish the iOpener out—no burned fingers, please.

– Give your iOpener a good towel-dry so it’s not dripping.

– You’re all set! If you need to reheat the iOpener, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for a couple of minutes.

– Place your warm iOpener on the back panel for about two minutes to help loosen that stubborn adhesive around the glass edge.

– Now, move the iOpener to heat up the rest of the back panel for another two minutes to complete the job.

– Once the rear glass is nice and warm to the touch, grab a suction cup and place it near the bottom edge of the glass.

– Gently pull on the suction cup to create a small gap beneath the glass, then carefully slide an opening pick into the gap.

– Gently glide that pick along the bottom edge of your phone, slicing through the adhesive that’s holding the rear glass in place. You’re almost there!

– Keep the heat and cutting groove going on the other three sides of the device, just like you did before—it’s a team effort!

– Slip an opening pick under each edge to keep that adhesive from playing tricks on you and resealing.

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slide it through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging around.

– Carefully take off the rear glass to reveal the inner workings of your device.

– Let’s get that new rear glass on your device!

– If you’re putting back the old rear glass or using a fresh piece without adhesive pre-installed, just follow along with this guide.

– Grab your tweezers and gently peel away any leftover adhesive from your phone’s chassis.

– Next, it’s time to clean up! Use high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Remember to swipe in one direction only – no back and forth! This will prep the surface perfectly for the new adhesive.

– Now, peel off the adhesive backing from the new rear glass. Carefully align one edge of the glass with the phone chassis, and then press it down firmly. You’ve got this!