Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Battery Replacement

Posted on July 26, 2025July 29, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 22 Steps

Hey there! Before you dive into disassembling your phone, make sure to let that battery chill out and drop below 25%.

Ready to swap out that tired battery in your Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge? Here’s how to do it safely and with style. First off, make sure your battery is below 25% charge before getting started—lithium-ion batteries and sharp tools are not a legendary combo. If your battery looks swollen, take it seriously: grab some eye protection and handle with care, or schedule a repair if you’re unsure. Don’t heat up your phone. To loosen the back cover, a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) around the edges can help break up the adhesive. Heads up: removing the rear glass means the adhesive won’t stick like it used to, so check out our guide for putting it back together.

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Battery Replacement

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: steer clear of the microphone hole with your tool—it could lead to a bummer of a situation! And don’t forget to keep an eye out for the shape of the SIM tray!

– Grab a trusty paper clip or SIM eject tool, and poke it into the tiny hole on top of your phone’s SIM card slot.

– Give it a gentle push—pop! The SIM card tray will slide out.

– Carefully pull the tray all the way out and set it aside.

Step 2

For carousel microwaves: Give that plate a spin! If your iOpener gets a little too cozy and gets stuck, it could overheat and cause some trouble. So, keep it movin’!

A little housekeeping goes a long way! Give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. Any leftover gunk could stick to the iOpener, and we want to keep things nice and tidy.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of your microwave and let it warm up!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 3

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep the iOpener at a safe temperature during your repair adventures. We don’t want it to burst into action! Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).

If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space—better safe than sorry!

Still feeling the heat? No worries! Keep using it while it cools down a bit more. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.

Microwaves can vary, so your iOpener might need a little more or less time to heat up. You’ll know it’s ready when it feels just a bit too hot to comfortably touch—kind of like that first sip of cocoa that’s a little too bold.

– Get that iOpener warmed up for thirty seconds – we’re about to get this repair started!

– As you work through the steps, remember to give your iOpener a little break and reheat it in the microwave for an extra thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Easy peasy!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 4

Heads up— the iOpener gets really hot, so handle it with care. Use an oven mitt if you’re feeling cautious.

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot center. Easy does it—grab and go with confidence! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Stay safe and keep those fingers happy!

No microwave? No problem! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener in a pot of boiling water.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully cover your iOpener.

– Bring that water to a boil, then turn off the heat. We’re almost there!

– Submerge the iOpener in the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s completely covered.

– Use some tongs to safely pull the iOpener out of the water (it’s hot, so be careful!).

– Dry the iOpener thoroughly with a towel. No one likes a wet iOpener!

– You’re all set! When it’s time to reheat, just boil some more water, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener in for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 6

Feel free to use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, but keep an eye on the heat! Your phone’s OLED display and internal battery are pretty sensitive to high temperatures, so let’s avoid any heat meltdowns. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Opening up your phone? Just a heads up, you might mess with its waterproof seals! Make sure you have some replacement adhesive handy before diving in, or be super careful to keep it away from any liquids if you’re putting it back together without a new adhesive.

If you’ve got a shattered screen, grab some packing tape and cover the whole panel to keep it nice and secure while you work on removing it.

You might need to give your iOpener a little extra love—reheat and reapply it a few times to get that phone nice and toasty. Just follow the iOpener instructions to keep it from getting too hot.

– Place that warm iOpener on the back panel for around two minutes to help loosen up the sticky stuff around the edge of the glass.

– Then, move the iOpener to heat the rest of the panel for another two minutes. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 7

Once you’ve inserted the pick, consider adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap. It helps loosen up the adhesive, making the next steps a bit easier. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– When the rear glass feels warm to the touch, grab a suction cup and place it near the bottom edge of the glass. Don’t worry if it feels a little warm—that’s a good sign you’re ready to proceed!

– Gently lift on the suction cup to create a tiny gap underneath the rear glass, then slip an opening pick into that space. This will help loosen the adhesive and get you one step closer to opening up the device.

Step 8

Now that you’ve got the first pick in place, go ahead and grab a second one to help with the next step. Leaving the first pick inserted will prevent the glue from re-sticking, making your life easier.

Give the rear glass a little more heat as needed to keep the glue from cooling down and hardening. This will make the process smoother and more efficient.

– Gently slide the pick along the bottom edge of your phone to cut through the sticky stuff holding the rear glass in place. You’re doing great!

Step 9

– Now, let’s keep the momentum going! Just like before, repeat the heating and cutting magic on the other three sides of the phone.

– Once you’re done, slide an opening pick under each edge. This little trick will ensure the adhesive doesn’t give you any trouble by resealing.

Step 10

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Carefully lift off the rear glass and reveal the inner workings of your device!

Step 11

– Ready to give your phone a fresh new rear glass? Let’s get started!

– If you’re putting back the old rear glass or using new glass that doesn’t come with adhesive, you’re in the right spot. Let’s do this!

– Grab those tweezers and gently remove any leftover adhesive from the phone’s chassis. We want a clean slate!

– Now it’s time to tidy up! Using some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth, clean the areas where the adhesive will stick. Remember to swipe in one direction only—no back and forth action here; it’s all about that prep work for the new adhesive.

– Peel off the backing of the new rear glass and carefully align one edge against the phone chassis. Press it down firmly—let’s make sure it sticks!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 12

– Let’s get started by removing the thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the midframe. This is the first step in taking your device apart, and it’s a great opportunity to get familiar with the internals.

Step 13

– Gently press on the back of the battery while lifting the edges of the midframe—just enough to pop it free from the rest of your phone. Take your time and show it who’s boss!

Step 14

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry away the battery ribbon cable from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 15

– Let’s get started by disconnecting the home button ribbon cable from the motherboard. This is a crucial step, so take your time and make sure it’s done correctly.

Step 16

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently disconnect those two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 17

– Gently pry the display ribbon cable away from the motherboard with the flat end of your trusty spudger. You got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Gently unhook the earpiece ribbon cable from the motherboard and set it aside. You’ve got this!

Step 19

Motherboards are pretty sensitive to static, so rock an anti-static bracelet to keep things safe and sound.

Hold up! Don’t yank the motherboard out just yet—there’s a ribbon cable underneath that needs to be unplugged first.

– Hold onto the motherboard by its edges near the top of your device. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the motherboard away from the display, making sure to be kind to the daughterboard ribbon cable – it’s delicate, so no unnecessary stress!

Step 20

– Let’s start by disconnecting the daughterboard ribbon cable from the underside of the motherboard. This is a simple step, but make sure to handle the cable with care to avoid any damage.

Step 21

Be gentle with the battery—trying to pry it out too forcefully can cause leaks, fires, or even explosions. Lithium-ion batteries are delicate, so avoid metal tools and excessive pressure to keep everything safe and sound.

Be careful when prying around the center area underneath the battery, as there’s no frame reinforcement to protect that gorgeous (and fragile) display panel. Let’s get through this step with care!

– Slide a pick or pry tool carefully under the battery and gently work it across to loosen the adhesive holding it in place. Keep at it until the battery starts to lift away smoothly.

Step 22

Once you pop that battery out, don’t try to put it back in! It’s like trying to wear last year’s fashion—just a no-go. Grab a shiny new battery instead and keep things safe and sound.

– To put everything back together, just reverse the steps you followed to get here. Check out our guide on reinstalling the rear glass for some extra help.

– Now that you’ve finished this repair, take a minute to calibrate your new battery and get everything running smoothly.

– You did it! If you need help with anything else or have another repair on your hands, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

Success!

Now that you’ve got everything back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. Don’t forget to give that rear glass a proper reinstall! And once you’re done, take a moment to calibrate your shiny new battery. If you run into any tricky spots, remember, you can always schedule a repair.

Cc quartz wristwatch Movement battery Replacement

Posted on July 26, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 5 Steps

Get ready to dive into the exciting world of quartz wristwatch repair! This guide walks you through the fun and straightforward steps to swap out that old battery for a fresh one, keeping your timepiece ticking. So, roll up your sleeves and let’s make that watch shine again! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

Cc quartz wristwatch Movement battery Replacement

– First up, double-check that your watch is a quartz movement—no sneaky mechanical ones hiding in there. It’s an easy step to keep things on track.

– Flip the watch to the back and look for that tiny notch. If there’s no screw on the back, that’s your cue to find the small indentation for opening it up.

– The red mark points right to the spot where you’ll use the watch back opener. Follow that guide, and you’ll be cracking it open like a pro in no time.

Step 2

– Gently slide the watch back opening tool into the little groove and give it a nudge to pop open the back case. Just a heads-up! Some of these can be a bit stubborn, so if you’re feeling like you’re wrestling with it, take a step back and ease up on the force!

– Stick to using the back opening tool only in that groove; straying elsewhere could leave behind some scratches that nobody wants!

– Once you’ve managed to lift the back cover, give the crown (that little guy marked in red in picture 2) a gentle tug out one click—no need to muscle it out!

– Now, find that tiny pin/lever marked in red in picture 3. With a watch tool or a slender pair of tweezers, apply a light downward pressure while carefully pulling the crown all the way out. Easy does it!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 3

– Once you’ve skillfully popped off the crown, go ahead and take out the plastic alignment case along with the movement (that includes the dial, just so you know) from the body.

– Grab a pair of thin tweezers and gently lift out the battery. Time to figure out which one you’ll be swapping it with!

– For this movement, you’ll be looking for a battery that’s a LR626 or something that fits the bill, like the trusty 377.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 4

– Pop in your shiny new battery—make sure it’s facing the right way.

– Gently set the movement and dial back into the case, lining everything up so it sits just right.

– Slide the crown back into its spot. Take your time and make sure it’s lined up—no need to press anything; it’ll snap in and lock itself.

Step 5

– Flip the watch over and check that the movement is ticking happily before you put the back cover on.

– When it’s time to snap the cover into place, make sure the notch shown in picture 2 lines up right above the crown from picture 1. Nice and easy!

Success!

We’ve got your reassembly covered in this guide!

If you run into any bumps along the way, no worries! Just schedule a repair and we’ll help you out!

How To Replace Custom-cut Adhesive For Samsung Phones

Posted on July 26, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 15 Steps

The side without color is your guide to which surface should get the strip first. Let’s make this repair a breeze!

Feeling perplexed by the collection of adhesive strips in your fix kit? You’re in luck! This guide will walk you through the process of using those adhesives for Samsung phones with glass backs (S7 and newer). We’ll also cover how to transfer and install back cover components, like the rear bezel and fingerprint sensor. Remember, you might not need to use every single adhesive strip in the kit, and if you’re working with the fingerprint sensor, a bit of double-sided tape—like Tesa tape—might come in handy. Want a rundown of adhesive strips for the Galaxy S phone? Just click here! Now, a couple of tips for applying those tricky adhesive strips: usually, they have a colorful side and a non-colored side (think paper or clear plastic). The non-colored side is your go-to for the first surface application. To make the whole process smoother, line up an unexposed strip with where it should go on the phone and tape one edge down to keep it in place. This way, you can peel off the plastic liners and reveal the sticky goodness without losing your perfect alignment. If you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair!

Step 1

How To Replace Custom-cut Adhesive For Samsung Phones

Depending on your device model, you might find that some parts of this guide are optional. Take a peek at your adhesive kit to figure out what steps are necessary:

– Ready to get that battery adhesive in place? Check out this guide!

– Next up, let’s move on to transferring and installing the fingerprint sensor and gasket. Onward!

– To install the rear bezel, just hop on over to step 5.

– Time to get that back cover support adhesive in! Skip right to step 9.

– Last but not least, for the back cover perimeter adhesive, jump to step 13.

Step 2

Ready to tackle that fingerprint sensor? Here are three simple steps to help you remove and transfer it along with its gasket like a pro!

If your phone’s fingerprint sensor and camera are all cozy on one rear bezel (like the S9), guess what? You can swap out that entire bezel without the hassle of detaching each part individually. How easy is that?

– Warm up that iOpener and place it on the fingerprint sensor for about a minute. Let the magic happen!

– Grab an opening tool and gently work your way in at the lower seam where the fingerprint sensor meets the back cover. Just a little nudge!

– Steer clear of the upper seam, which is the fingerprint gasket seam. We don’t want to mess with that!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 3

If you’re just swapping out the fingerprint sensor and not messing with the gasket, you can skip this step. Easy peasy—no need to get fancy if the gasket’s not involved. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty opening tool and gently pry the fingerprint sensor away from the gasket—like peeling a sticker off a fresh fruit!

– Next up, peel off the colorful plastic cover on your new gasket to reveal the sticky goodness waiting underneath.

– Now, it’s time to carefully position the fingerprint sensor right onto the sticky side of the gasket—let’s get it just right!

– Once everything’s aligned, give it a good press with your finger to make sure that adhesive really sticks—it’s bonding time!

Step 4

– To stick that slick fingerprint sensor onto your shiny new back cover, grab some custom-cut adhesive or a trusty double-sided tape, like Tesa tape, to really make it hold on tight.

– Now, line up the fingerprint sensor with the cutout in the back cover and give it a good, firm press with your finger to make sure the adhesive sticks like a champ.

Step 5

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a little warmth before placing it on the rear bezel for about a minute. Warm it up, and let’s get cracking!

– Now, starting from the outside of the back cover, gently nudge the bezel inward with your finger to help it break free from its snug spot. You’re doing great!

– If you prefer, you can also use an opening tool to carefully pry around the bezel and help it detach from the back cover. Whatever floats your boat!

Here’s how to carefully pop off and swap the rear bezel—it’s the shield that holds the cameras, flash, and on some models, the fingerprint sensor. Just a heads-up: don’t go prying too hard, or you might bend the bezel. Take your time and gentle is the way to go. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 6

– Let’s get that bezel off! It’s your time to shine.

– Grab your trusty opening tool and some high concentration isopropyl alcohol. Give that bezel a gentle clean-up to wipe away any stubborn adhesive residue. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Isopropyl Alcohol

Step 7

– Start by gently peeling off the clear plastic liner from the bezel adhesive strip to unveil the sticky goodness underneath.

– Next up, let’s get that adhesive perfectly lined up with the cutout on the back cover—take your time!

– Once you’ve got it just right, give it a firm press to secure the adhesive with your finger.

– Finally, peel away the colorful plastic liner from the adhesive to reveal its surface, ready for action!

Step 8

– Carefully line up the bezel with the adhesive like a pro.

– Give that bezel a gentle squeeze around the edges to make sure the adhesive sticks just right.

– Wipe down the bezel glass with a microfiber cloth to keep it sparkling clean.

Step 9

Avoid using metal tools; they can leave unsightly scratches on your back cover’s coating. Let’s keep it looking sharp!

Here are four simple steps to help you stick on those back cover support adhesives like a pro!

If you’re swapping out the fingerprint sensor or the rear bezel, make sure to tackle those first. Trust us, it’ll make life easier!

Typically, the adhesive with the clear plastic liner is meant for the back cover, while the one with the colorful liner is meant for the phone frame. Easy peasy!

– Take a moment to see how the support strip fits with the surfaces. Just line up the adhesive strip’s shapes with the leftover sticky stuff and the phone frame – it’s like a puzzle!

– Grab your opening tool and some high concentration isopropyl alcohol. Time to wipe away all that pesky adhesive residue from the phone frame. You got this!

– If you’re planning to reuse your back cover, make sure to clean off any remaining adhesive residue from it too. A clean slate is always a good idea!

Tools Used

Isopropyl Alcohol

Step 10

– Peel off the clear backing from the support adhesive strip to reveal the sticky side. Gently place the strip, adhesive side down, onto the top of the phone frame—just be sure not to touch the sticky part to keep it clean. Line up the adhesive strip so that its contours match the shape of the frame for a snug fit. If you’re working with two small support strips, repeat these steps for each one. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 11

– Gently place the back cover onto the support strips that are waiting for it. This will help the adhesive make its way to the back cover just right!

Step 12

– First up, let’s get that back cover off! Give it a gentle tug and remove it.

– Now, take your fingers and press the support adhesive firmly onto the back cover—like giving it a nice, supportive hug.

– Time to peel away the colorful liner and reveal the sticky goodness underneath!

Step 13

Avoid using metal tools; they might leave unsightly scratches on the back cover’s finish.

Next up, it’s time to stick that back cover perimeter adhesive back on. Just follow along, and you’ll have it sealed up in no time.

– Get ready to roll up your sleeves and tackle that adhesive residue on the phone frame! Use an opening tool and some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to wipe it clean.

– If you’re planning to reuse the back cover, don’t forget to remove all the adhesive residue from it as well. You’re one step closer to a successful repair!

Tools Used

Isopropyl Alcohol

Step 14

Alright, this adhesive is super sticky! You’ve got just one shot to get it right, so handle it with care as you work your magic.

Now that the back cover is all set for sealing, take a moment to test your phone’s functionality before you seal it up tight.

Just a friendly reminder: keep that adhesive from peeking over the cover edge. If it does, your device won’t seal properly, and we can’t have that!

– Gently peel back the clear liner from the edge of the adhesive strip to unveil the sticky goodness.

– Grab the strip by its tabs and carefully align one long side of the adhesive with the edge of the back cover.

– Press the adhesive onto the back cover using your fingers, making sure it’s snug and secure.

– Now, peel off the colored liner from the adhesive strip to reveal more of that sticky magic.

Step 15

Alternatively, you can wrap your device in some trusty screen vice clamps around the edges to help set that new adhesive in place.

– You did it! Now your device is back in action. If you find yourself in a jam, remember, you can always schedule a repair to get expert help!

Success!

Samsung Galaxy S10 Battery Replacement

Posted on July 26, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 15 Steps

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep your battery below 25% before diving into the disassembly of your phone. Safety first, right?

Ready to tackle the battery swap on your Samsung Galaxy S10? Let’s dive in! First off, this battery is stuck in there pretty good with some strong adhesive. But don’t sweat it! Grab some adhesive remover or high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to make things a bit breezier. Make sure you have some replacement adhesive or Tesa tape handy to stick that battery and back cover back on when you’re done. If your battery looks like it’s been to a balloon party, take care and skip the heat—it’s not needed. Oh, and for your safety, drain your battery below 25% before you start taking things apart. It’s a smart way to prevent any thermal surprises if you accidentally poke the battery. Some steps might show the lower midframe or loudspeaker assembly taken out, but don’t worry—you can keep that in place for this battery adventure!

Step 1

Feel free to use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up a bit. Just remember, we don’t want to turn your phone into a hot mess—both the display and internal battery can get a bit cranky with too much heat. Keep it cool and smooth!

– First things first, unplug your phone and power it down. Safety first, right?

– Grab your trusty iOpener, heat it up, and give some love to the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes.

– While you’re waiting, check out the picture of the removed back cover and keep an eye on where the adhesive is hanging out.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

– Set the warmed-up right edge of your phone on something about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick. This will give your phone a nice angle for the opening tool to slip in.

– Support the left edge of the phone with your fingers to keep it steady. Now, give that suction cup a good tug with some solid pressure.

– Gently press the edge of your opening tool into the crack between the back cover and the frame. You’re doing great!

– With the tool snugly in the seam, slide it back and forth to help loosen that back cover. Keep it smooth and steady!

Step 3

Be gentle with the pick—too much force could turn your back cover glass into a puzzle piece!

Because the fit is snug and the adhesive is strong, you might need to give it a few tries to wiggle that opening pick in there. Keep at it!

– Warm up your iOpener and stick it on the same edge of your phone for a cool two minutes. Trust us, it helps!

– Get a suction cup and place it on the back of the phone, ideally close to the center of the right edge where the adhesive is thinnest. This is where the magic happens!

– Now, give that suction cup a good, steady pull to create a little gap between the back cover and the frame. You got this!

– Once you’ve got a gap, slide the tip of your opening pick into it. Easy peasy!

– If you’re struggling to make the gap, it might mean the adhesive is still feeling a bit too cozy. Make sure you’ve heated that edge until it’s just shy of too hot to touch, and give it another go!

– For an extra boost, you can drop a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam to help loosen that stubborn adhesive.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 4

Hold off on trying to slice through the adhesive at the corners before warming things up. Go for the heat first, or you might just end up with a cracked back cover.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the phone’s edge, cutting through that adhesive like a pro.

– Pop a pick into the seam to keep the adhesive from sealing up again on you.

Step 5

If the cutting feels tough, don’t worry! Just re-apply some heat to the edge and you’ll be back on track in no time.

– Warm up your iOpener and give the bottom edge of your phone a cozy two-minute hug.

– Gently slide an opening pick into the right edge, right by the bottom corner. You’ve got this!

– Carefully maneuver that pick around the corner and keep slicing along the bottom edge, wrapping around to the bottom left corner like a pro.

– Pop an opening pick into the seam to keep that pesky adhesive from getting too clingy.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 6

When you’re trimming those corners, make sure to give them a good heat-up first!

– Keep that heat going and glide your tool along the remaining edges of your phone. You’ve got this!

Step 7

Feel free to pop the back cover back on without swapping out the adhesive if you don’t want to! Just make sure to clear away any big adhesive blobs that could keep the cover from lying flat. Once you’ve got it on, give it a little warmth and press down to make sure it’s nice and snug!

– Once you’ve cut around the phone, grab an opening pick and gently twist it into one of the edges to start loosening the back cover from the frame. Take your time and work around the edges. Carefully lift the back cover, using opening picks to slice through any stubborn adhesive along the way. When removing the back, be gentle to avoid any damage. Before sealing everything back up, it’s a good idea to power on your phone and give all functions a quick test—just to make sure everything’s working smoothly. Remember to fully power down before continuing. When you’re ready to put it back together, follow this guide to reinstall the back cover, transfer and install the camera bezel, and reapply the adhesive. If you need help at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 8

– Let’s get started by unscrewing those eight 4 mm Phillips screws that are holding the top midframe snugly in place. You’ve got this!

Step 9

– Alright, folks! The midframe is still hanging on tight with a few plastic clips around the edge. No worries, we’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the point into the notch on the right edge of the midframe, right by the volume up button.

– Now, give it a little pry to help loosen the midframe from the phone. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 10

The top midframe might just decide to cling to the lower midframe at its bottom right corner. If it does, just take your time and gently peel it away.

– Gently coax the midframe away from the top corners and lift it off your phone. You’re doing great!

– Ready to give that top midframe a new home? Let’s do this:

– First, bring the top edge of the midframe in line with your phone and carefully lay it down in place.

– Now, use your fingers to press along the edges of the midframe. Listen for that satisfying snap as the clips lock back into position. Make sure the edges are flush against the phone. You’ve got this!

Step 11

Be gentle when disconnecting connectors, as the tiny surface-mounted components around the socket can be easily dislodged. Let’s take it one step at a time and get that repair done with care!

– Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger right under the battery connector, which is chilling out just below the rear-facing camera on the motherboard.

– Give a gentle upward pry to disconnect that connector from its cozy socket.

– Carefully nudge the battery’s flex cable away from the motherboard socket to avoid any accidental run-ins.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 12

– The battery is really stuck in there! Check out the highlighted areas beneath it:

– The frame, where that battery is held tight with some serious sticky stuff.

– A little cutout in the frame that reveals the delicate display sitting just below. Tread carefully when you’re prying in this spot, or you might end up giving that display a surprise!

Step 13

Take it easy with the liquid! Just a few drops at a time, please. Too much can sneak into the frame cutout under the battery and cause some serious display drama.

No direct heating on the battery, okay? Only warm up the front side of the display where the battery is hiding underneath. We want to keep things safe and avoid any fiery situations!

Using adhesive remover or a potent mix of isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) will really lighten the load when it comes to battery removal. It’s like giving your battery a little vacation before it leaves!

– Alternatively, warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the right side of the phone’s front for about two minutes, or until the battery feels nice and toasty from the heat transfer.

– If you’re going the adhesive remover route, make sure to kick things off with these prep steps first.

– Drop a couple of drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol in each corner of the battery. Just a tiny splash!

– Take a breather and let the liquid work its magic for a minute, softening that stubborn adhesive.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 14

If the battery refuses to move, it means the adhesive isn’t quite loosened enough yet. Give it another go, and try a bit more patience!

– Slide the corner of your opening card into the gap between the battery and the bottom midframe like a pro!

– With a steady hand, pry that battery out of its cozy little recess. Firm and consistent pressure is your best friend here.

– If you’re feeling adventurous, grab an opening pick, an opening tool, or a spudger to help coax the battery out. Just remember, no metal tools allowed!

– If things aren’t budging, don’t worry! Just repeat that adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol application and give it another go.

– And hey, if the going gets tough, try applying a bit more heat with your iOpener to soften things up.

Tools Used

Step 15

Hey there! Once you take that battery out, it’s a no-go to put it back in. Safety first, my friend! Grab a shiny new battery instead.

– Ready to put your device back together? Just retrace your steps, and you’ll be golden!

– To get the best out of that snazzy new battery, give it a little calibration love after you’re done.

– Got some old tech? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go as smoothly as planned, don’t fret! Our Answers community is here to help you troubleshoot.

– Remember, if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

Time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps and follow the instructions in reverse.

Once you’ve got that shiny new battery in, give it a little calibration love for top-notch performance!

Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s the responsible thing to do!

If your repair journey hit a bump, don’t sweat it! Our Answers community is here to help you troubleshoot.

Remember, every repair is a step towards mastering your tech skills!

Sony Xperia Z Headphone Jack Replacement

Posted on July 26, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 18 Steps

Get ready to breathe new life into your phone with this step-by-step guide to replacing the headphone jack. We’ll walk you through the process, making it easy to follow and complete. If you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry – our guide is designed to be clear and concise, and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

Sony Xperia Z Headphone Jack Replacement

– Set your hair dryer to a cozy medium heat.

– Gently glide the hair dryer along the seams on the back of your phone, keeping it a few inches away from the case.

– Give it a full minute of warm air action to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding your phone together.

Step 2

Carefully nudge it back just a tad to make a tiny opening.

– After you’ve loosened that sticky adhesive, grab your trusty suction cup and place it right in the center top of your phone’s back. Now, give it a gentle pull back and watch the magic happen!

Step 3

– Once you’ve created a tiny gap with the back cover, gently slide the plastic opening tool into the edge of the phone.

– Glide the tool along the edge to help loosen that stubborn adhesive.

Step 4

Heads up: If you pull on that suction cup too hard or too fast, you might end up giving the back of your phone a dramatic exit. Take it easy, and you’ll be just fine!

– After you’ve gently loosened that sticky adhesive, take a deep breath and slowly pull back on the suction cup to lift off the back panel of your phone. You’ve got this!

– The leftover adhesive should be tough enough to keep your phone snug and secure when you put it back together. Just a heads up, though: once you’ve opened it up, the water resistance might not be as strong as it was before.

Step 5

– Now that the back cover is off, the battery is sitting right there—giving you full access to the battery and its connectors.

– Gently pry the connector off the motherboard using your plastic opening tool—no need to go all Hulk, just a gentle lift.

– Use your fingers to carefully peel away the remaining adhesive holding the battery in place—slow and steady wins the race.

Step 6

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift that white adhesive tape from the bottom of the battery. Take it slow, we’ve got this!

– Now, with a little finesse, use your fingers to peel away the remaining adhesive tape from the battery. You’re doing great!

Step 7

Hey there! Just a heads up: those flex cables are sneaky little guys running straight down under the battery. They can get a bit cranky if you’re not careful! So, make sure to keep your spudger in the right spot while you work your magic.

– Gently glide that spudger along the right edge of the battery, breaking free the adhesive that’s holding everything together. You’re doing awesome!

– Next, pop that spudger into the bottom-center to give that adhesive a little extra coaxing. With a bit of finesse, slide the spudger up under the battery and lift it out from the phone. It might take a little elbow grease since the adhesive is quite clingy, but you’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 8

– Unscrew the single 3 mm screw sitting pretty at the top right corner of the motherboard with your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver. That motherboard is the green/silver superstar circuit board right at the top of the phone, ready to help you out!

Tools Used

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

Step 9

Removing the black housing from your phone can be a bit of a puzzle. Just keep prying and lifting on that housing, and it should pop right off!

– Using your plastic opening tool, gently pry up the black housing at the top right corner of the phone—start from the bottom and top edges. Then, find the charging cover on the right side at the top and give it a little lift—this should cause the housing piece to pop out smoothly. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 10

Keep the copper tape party limited—only peel away the tape stuck to the silver part of the motherboard. Don’t go all out and remove it from everywhere, just the designated area to keep things neat and safe.

– Gently pry up the copper tape at the top center of the phone using a plastic opening tool—don’t worry if it takes a bit of muscle, the adhesive’s pretty sticky. Next, use the same tool to lift the pop connector—just lift it up to release it, and it should stay attached to the copper tape. Finally, carefully pull up on both the copper tape and the pop connector to pop out the back camera—should come out smoothly without much fuss. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 11

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge that red tape away from the motherboard. You’ll find the pop connector hanging out at the top right corner of the phone, just waiting for some attention.

– Now, using your fingers, give a gentle tug on the pop connector to free the front camera. It should pop right out without any fuss!

Step 12

Some images in this guide feature the back cover of the phone taken off. If you’re just popping out the SIM card, there’s no need to hassle with the case!

– Hey there! The SIM card for your Xperia Z is hiding in the sneaky little slot right above the power button—easy to spot once you know where to look!

– Now, let’s get that cover off! Give it a gentle nudge to the left, and it should pop open without a fuss.

Step 13

Handle that SIM card like it’s a delicate little treasure—be gentle when you’re removing and dealing with it to keep it safe and sound.

– Gently remove the SIM card and its tray from the phone, taking care not to rush this step.

Step 14

– Unscrew the two 3mm Phillips #000 screws snugly positioned at the middle left and lower right corners of the motherboard. Time to get your tiny screwdriver out and give those screws a little twist!

Step 15

Keep those three flex cable flaps lifted and out of the way of the motherboard! Just a friendly reminder to be gentle with those cables; we don’t want any accidental tears!

– Carefully pop the three flex cables off the motherboard. You’ll find them hanging out in the bottom right, bottom left, and top left corners of the motherboard, just waiting for a little love!

Step 16

Keep that antenna lifted and clear of the motherboard, just like a happy little bird!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge up that antenna at the bottom right corner of the motherboard. You’re doing great!

Step 17

The motherboard is snugly glued in place, so it might take a little muscle to get it out.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the motherboard out of its cozy home in the phone case. Start from the right side where the back camera used to hang out.

– Now, with a steady hand, lift up the section where the shiny part of the motherboard meets the edge of the green base board. You got this!

Step 18

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool under the bottom edge of the orange pop connector, then lift it upward toward the center of the headphone jack. This connector is tucked at the top left corner of the device. Carefully lift the tool to pop the connector free—if needed, grab the sensor cable to lift the component out smoothly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

Now, just retrace your steps and put everything back together like a pro!

If you find yourself in a bind, you can always schedule a repair.

How to repair a broken flex cable (Sony Xperia Z1 microphone flex)

Posted on July 26, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 14 Steps

So, you’ve stumbled upon a pretty common hiccup with the Sony Xperia Z1’s microphone not working. No worries! We’re here to break down the different types of microphone issues you might encounter. Before diving in, it’s a good idea to have some experience with surface-mount soldering and the basics of disassembling and reassembling your device. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps to create a jumper, tackle advanced techniques for flex cable repair (yes, we know fixing flex cables can seem a bit wild), and gather all those scattered tidbits of information about the Z1’s microphone troubles. Just a heads-up: while this guide is packed with useful insights, remember it draws from various forum posts and my personal experiences, rather than official sources. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

How to repair a broken flex cable (Sony Xperia Z1 microphone flex)

– Let’s get started! To figure out what’s going on with your device, head to settings -> about phone -> diagnostics -> tests and run a microphone test. Alternatively, you can dial *#*#7378423#*#* to access the service menu and test your mic from there.

– The test results will give you a better understanding of the issue. You might encounter muffled sound, no sound at all, or just a weird buzzing noise. Whatever the result, it’ll help you determine the best course of action to get your device back in working order.

– While you’re at it, go ahead and test the secondary microphone (the one used for recording sound in videos). Knowing whether it’s working or not might come in handy later on in the repair process.

Step 2

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: diving into repairs without the right skills, precision, and a sprinkle of patience can lead to more trouble than triumph for your gadget. Before you leap into part replacements, take a moment to rule out the simple issues and software glitches. If you find yourself stuck, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair and let the pros handle it!

When tackling your device, keep an eye out for those sneaky washers, grounding pieces, or even plastic covers that might be hanging out above or between the parts. It’s a good idea to double-check these if you’ve done any work inside before. And if you haven’t replaced any parts yet, swapping out something like the microphone could just do the trick!

– Sometimes the solution is simpler than you’d expect, so make sure to rule out the obvious culprits first, like pocket lint stuck in the bottom holes of your phone. These are where the microphone picks up air pressure changes and mistakenly interprets them as sound.

– Give those holes a quick check – it might save you a lot of time and effort. It’s helped in the past, but if it doesn’t work for you, don’t sweat it. Keep going, you’ve got this!

Step 3

– Feeling a bit stuck? Try giving your device a hard reset or updating its operating system. If things are still wonky, you might want to roll back to a previous version that was working just fine. I’m not diving into the software nitty-gritty here because, let’s be real, that’s not my strong suit! But if you’re in need of some serious help, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.

– Usually, problems that crop up from tinkering with the software can only be resolved by sorting out the software itself. So, keep that in mind as you troubleshoot!

Step 4

– If you’re hearing muffled sound, don’t panic! It probably means your flex cables are just fine. Instead, it could be a little dirt causing the trouble or maybe your mic settings need a bit of tweaking.

– No sound at all? That could point to a broken mic or damaged flex cables. But if you’ve never opened up your device, chances are the flex cables are still in good shape. They don’t just break for fun!

– A buzzing noise might suggest your mic has been through some water or moisture, or it could just be some funky mic settings. Some folks have found that turning off mic noise suppression and equalizer can do the trick!

Step 5

Other options to consider are

– If your microphone was working just fine before cracking open your device, but suddenly starts acting up, it’s likely that something went a bit haywire during the process.

– For the Xperia Z series, it’s not uncommon for the microphone to go silent after a screen replacement. The usual suspect? The flex cable! Even the pros can have a slip-up now and then, and flex damage is a frequent mishap during these repairs. That’s why we’re here with this guide!

– It’s possible that a tiny surface-mount component got dislodged from the board or flex.

– Also, don’t forget to check for any dirt or loose connections between the flex and the motherboard, or between the part and the flex. A little grime can cause a lot of trouble!

Step 6

Keep an eye on where the tear is hiding beneath that black rubber you peeled back. It can be a bit sneaky sometimes, making it tricky to find those pesky defective points!

– To track down that sneaky broken flex, you’ll want to keep your eyes peeled on those flex cables and any areas that got a little love during the last repair. For our buddy Xperia Z1, the troublemaker is that hefty flex cable connecting the motherboard to all those buttons and the screen.

– Spotting a damaged flex cable takes a sharp eye, so don’t hesitate to grab some magnification to help you out.

– Flex cables often like to tear around bends or in tighter spots. Check out the pictures of two broken mic flexes for the Z1. The first is the original flex that I, whoops, accidentally tore, and the second? Well, it arrived broken too. Not wanting to gamble on the second replacement, I decided to work my magic on the original…

Step 7

Before you hit that order button for a new part, give those model numbers and pictures a good once-over to make sure they’re a perfect match!

– Locating the broken flex is often the final step in your diagnostic adventure, and thankfully, replacement parts are usually pretty affordable.

– For those tackling the iPhone 6 home button flex cable repair (Error 53) or anyone who can’t wait for a new part, I’m including these parts more out of curiosity than as a common practice. Unless you have a compelling reason (or just really enjoy this kind of thing like I do), fixing a broken flex cable might not be the best use of your time!

Step 8

Steer clear of that hot air! It can burn and warp the flex, and we definitely don’t want that. You’ll want to do most of this with a soldering iron in hand, so having some SMT experience and a microscope is key to success. You’re going to do great!

Scout out as much free space as you can around those jumper points—it’s like a dance floor for your soldering iron! Give those SMD components plenty of room to avoid any accidental bumps. We definitely want to keep the burn marks to a minimum, so aim for those open pads when placing your jumpers.

Keep an eye on the flex cable’s path inside the device. It’s all about making sure you’ve got room to work, so avoid piling solder and jumpers where they just don’t fit. No one likes a cluttered workspace!

– Alright, if you’re gearing up to tackle a flex cable repair, it’s all about having a solid game plan for your jumpers. Think of jumper points like those sweet spots on a pizza—great spots are the edges of SMD components or wider sections of the trace. I’ve highlighted some ideal jumper locations in the picture to give you a good visual cue.

– To nail this jumper thing, you need to get the basics down. The wire you use has to be insulated, or else you’ll end up with a chaotic mess of connections that could cause some serious damage. I usually roll with enameled copper wire, but if you’re feeling adventurous, scrap flex cable can work too (just a bit trickier!).

– Before you dive in and snip that jumper, make sure to check out the upcoming steps in the guide to get a clearer picture of what kind of jumper you’re aiming to create.

Tools Used

Step 9

Handle that knife with care—no need to go all Hulk on it! You might need to lightly scratch the surface for a bit before the copper decides to make an appearance. It’s a good idea to practice this, along with the rest of the repair steps, on some scrap flex cables first. You’ve got this!

– Find a pad that looks like it could use some TLC, and give it a gentle scratch with the tip of your exacto knife until the copper shines through.

– Next up, grab some alcohol (the cleaning kind, please!) and a Q-tip to give that pad a good scrub.

– Repeat the same process for the second jumper point and you’re on your way!

Step 10

– First, spread some flux onto the pads. Then, grab your soldering iron and gently touch the pad tips with the iron’s end, adding a little solder to tin them. Check out the pictures and maybe practice first. In the second picture, the pad got a smaller tinning because it wasn’t cleaned well enough, so aim for bigger pads if you’ve got the space.

– Next up, give the ends of your jumper some tinning too. To get rid of the enamel, use a file or knife, then add a tiny bit of solder (not too much!) with plenty of flux. You just need the end of the jumper to look silvery – no big solder blobs here!

Tools Used

Step 11

Keep those wires tidy! Leaving any exposed wire after soldering isn’t just a bad idea; it could lead to a shocking surprise when they touch other components. Take a peek at the first picture: I’m leaving a little extra tinned wire for a snip later. And just a heads up, there’s a pad that’s a bit too close for comfort (circled in red).

– Time to add a little more flux (just a friendly nudge from Jessa)!

– Gently solder that jumper into place, and use tweezers to hold it steady. No need to fret about the length of the jumper just yet!

– Now, take a look at the second picture. Oops! A solder bridge formed because we got a bit too enthusiastic with the solder. This is a classic example of what can happen if you’re not careful. But don’t sweat it this time; the bridging didn’t cause any issues (check the first pic to see why), so I just let it slide.

– The pad was already a tad too snug, and now it’s super cozy! I ended up using a piece of tape as insulation between the jumper wire and the pad after giving the area a nice clean to remove that flux.

Tools Used

Step 12

– First things first, measure that jumper so it can easily reach the pad you’re aiming for! Make sure to lay the jumper flat across the flex. If the flex needs to take a little bend along the way, just make sure your jumper wire is long enough to accommodate that twist. And a quick tip: avoid using copper wire for flex repairs that need to move—trust me, it’ll just break on you.

– If your earlier tinning didn’t quite do the trick, give the wire a couple of pokes with a file to expose some copper—just enough for soldering. Then, give it another round of tinning to prep it!

– Time to get a little more flux on there.

– Now it’s soldering time! Sorry about the not-so-great picture quality. By the way, in the second shot, I’ve already snipped off the extra wire.

Tools Used

Flux

Step 13

– Using your trusty tweezers, grab that pesky excess wire and give it a little dance—bend it back and forth gently until it snaps off. Don’t forget to do the same for the other end!

– If your solder joint decides to break while you’re giving that leftover wire a little wiggle, it might just be a sign that the joint wasn’t as strong as it should have been in the first place.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 14

– Just follow the same steps for any other torn flex traces, and you’ll be all set—easy peasy! If you decide to dive into this adventure, we’d love to see your results, so feel free to share your photos with us! And hey, if you’re a pro and spot any mistakes, don’t hesitate to give us a shout! Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– You’re now equipped with the knowledge to tackle this repair!

Tools Used

Flux

Success!

Now, just follow the same steps for any other flex traces that need some love, and voilà, you’re all set! Good luck out there! If you give this a shot, feel free to share your results here, and if you can, snap a few pictures of your success! And hey, if you’re a seasoned pro checking this out, don’t hesitate to chime in with any tips or corrections. And remember, if you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair.

Google Pixel XL Battery Replacement

Posted on July 25, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 26 Steps

This guide is brought to you with love and care, just a heads up though – it’s not officially endorsed by any big names out there.

Before diving into the disassembly adventure, make sure to keep that battery below 25%. Safety first!

The Pixel XL’s display panel is a bit on the delicate side and is glued tightly to the frame, making repairs a bit tricky. Handle with care, as there’s a solid chance you might break the display, especially if it’s already sporting some micro-fractures.

This guide walks you through opening up the Pixel XL to swap out its battery. If your battery’s puffed up, make sure to take safety steps—discharging it below 25% helps reduce fire or explosion risks if punctured. The display on this model is delicate and glued to the frame with strong adhesive, so be gentle—heat your pry tools well and proceed carefully to avoid cracks, especially if your screen already has micro-fractures. The battery sticks in with tough adhesive, so using over 90% isopropyl alcohol can help loosen things up. Take your time, follow the steps, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, but watch out for overheating your phone! Remember, both the display and internal battery are sensitive to heat. Keep it cool and you’ll be golden!

– Warm up that iOpener and let it work its magic on the top edge of the display for about two minutes.

– Before you dive in, keep an eye on these tricky spots:

– There’s a thin strip of adhesive hugging the display panel.

– Watch out for some thicker adhesive lurking around.

– The OLED display panel is delicate, so handle it like you would a cupcake.

– Be careful of the display cable, as it might get a little cranky during prying.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

– When the edge is nice and toasty, pop on a suction cup near the edge.

– Give that suction cup a gentle lift, then slide an opening pick into the tiny gap.

– If you’re struggling to create a gap, just reheat the edge and give it another go!

Keep that pick to a maximum of 13 mm (0.5 inches)! Going deeper than that could put a serious dent in your display assembly, and we don’t want that!

Feeling stuck? Try swapping out your opening pick for a playing card—it can give you a little extra leverage and help you get that initial entry more smoothly. Sometimes a simple change like that makes all the difference. If you need a hand, just schedule a repair and we’ll help get you back on track.

Step 3

Be careful not to cut deeper than 13 mm (0.5 inches) or you might end up damaging the display. And there’s a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen—if you don’t have a replacement mesh, handle it gently so you don’t damage or lose this tiny component.

– Gently glide that opening clip along the top edge to cut through the sticky stuff.

– Pop an opening pick in there to keep that adhesive from getting cozy again.

Step 4

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: keep that pick no deeper than 1 mm (1/32″) along the edge. Going too deep can cause some serious damage to the display assembly. We believe in you, so take it slow and steady! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up your iOpener and give some love to the right edge of your phone for a solid two minutes.

– Slide an opening pick into the top edge of the phone right where you’ve already made that adhesive slice.

– Gently guide the pick around the right corner like you’re tracing a secret path.

– Carefully run the pick down the right edge, slicing through that stubborn adhesive as you go.

– Now, let’s do the same dance on the left edge of the phone!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

Hey there, just a friendly reminder: don’t slice deeper than 8.5 mm (1/3″) or you might accidentally give the display cable a bad day!

– Warm up the bottom edge with an iOpener for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently slide a pick near the right edge where the adhesive is already feeling loose.

– Carefully maneuver the pick around the corner like a pro.

– Glide the pick along the bottom edge to slice through that pesky adhesive.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 6

Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t try to yank off that display assembly just yet. It’s still cozy with a flex cable!

– After you’ve made a nice slice all around the edge of your phone, gently lift the display assembly a bit from the right corners. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty opening pick and carefully cut through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging on.

Step 7

Watch out for that flex cable while you’re swinging the assembly around—let’s keep it safe and sound!

– Gently lift the display assembly from the top and give it a little swing so it can comfortably rest upside down on the frame. You’ve got this!

Step 8

As you dive into this repair adventure, remember to keep a close eye on those little screws! Make sure each one finds its way back to its original home.

– First, let’s tackle those two tiny 4 mm T5 screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Go ahead and remove them with care!

– Now, gently lift off the display cable bracket. You’re doing great!

Step 9

Alright, let’s get those connectors back in action! Start by aligning them carefully, then give one side a gentle press until you hear that satisfying click. Repeat the same magic on the other side. Just a friendly tip: avoid pushing down on the middle! If things get a little wonky and the connector is misaligned, those pins could bend, leading to some serious trouble. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently use the spudger’s tip to lift and disconnect that display cable from its cozy connector. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 10

– First, let’s get that display assembly off—remove it like a pro!

– If you’re looking for all the juicy details on reinstalling the Pixel XL display, check out this handy guide.

– Got a replacement display that didn’t bring its own speaker grille? No worries! Grab some tweezers and gently peel the adhesive grille from your old display, then transfer it over to the new one. Easy peasy!

– Before you pop in the new display, make sure to clean up any leftover adhesive from the frame. A spudger or an opening tool will do the trick for scraping it off, and high-concentration isopropyl alcohol will help you wipe away any stubborn residue.

– If you’re reinstalling the same display assembly, don’t forget to clear off any adhesive residue from both the panel and the frame before applying fresh adhesive.

– Once everything’s in place, turn on your phone and give your repair a test run before sealing it all up with new adhesive. You got this!

– Heads up! During the boot-up after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Resist the urge to touch the screen during this phase—doing so could mess with the touch calibration and lead to some pesky touch issues.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 11

– Time to get those screws out and free the midframe from the back! Here’s what you need to remove:

– Seven sleek black 4 mm T5 screws

– Two shiny silver 3 mm T5 screws

Step 12

– The midframe is snugly secured by those clever little plastic clips that click right into the edge of the back case. You’re doing great!

Step 13

– Spot that tiny notch in the bottom left corner of the frame? Great! Now, gently slide in an opening pick.

– Now, glide that opening pick along the bottom edge of your device, heading towards the bottom right corner, and just let it chill there for a moment.

Step 14

The snug fit can make this a bit tricky, and you might need to put in a bit of muscle. If things get tough, don’t hesitate to grab a playing card and slide it in for some assistance!

– Grab a thin opening pick and gently slide it into the right edge of the phone, just above the bottom corner.

– Carefully work the pick upward along the seam, easing apart the clips one by one until the first one pops free.

– After releasing the clip, leave the pick in place to keep the midframe from snapping back together prematurely.

Step 15

Be careful not to push the pick in more than 2 mm, or you might accidentally damage those delicate flex cables. Better safe than sorry!

At this point, the right edge of the midframe should be detached from the case. If it’s still stuck, try sliding an opening clip up and down along the right edge to coax it loose.

– Let’s get this repair started! Insert an opening pick into the right edge of the phone and gently slide it upwards towards the top right clip – you’re making great progress already!

– Now, carefully slide the pick past the clip to disengage it from the frame. Take your time, you’re doing fantastic!

Step 16

– Grab the right edge of the midframe by the corners and gently lift it up like you’re unveiling a surprise.

– When the left edge starts to feel a bit wobbly, stop right there, and carefully lift the midframe upwards.

– Time to say goodbye to the midframe! Go ahead and remove it.

– To put the midframe back, align it with the case, and give a little squeeze around the edges until all those clips snap back into their happy places. If done right, the midframe should sit nice and flat.

Step 17

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the battery connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Give the battery flex cable a small bend so it stays clear of the motherboard. Let’s keep everything safe and sound!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Time to get a little tricky! Use your trusty tweezers to carefully peel up the tape at the top of the interconnect cable. Take your time and be gentle, we’ve got this!

Step 19

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the interconnect cable from the motherboard to disconnect it. Easy peasy!

– When you’re ready to reconnect, simply line up the cable with the socket. Give it a little press down on one side, then the other. If you nailed it, the cable will be snug as a bug in that socket!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 20

Feel free to keep the interconnect cable cozy with the daughterboard thanks to the adhesive, or if you’re feeling adventurous, you can take it off completely!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge it under the interconnect cable at the bottom daughterboard. A little lift and voilà, you’re disconnecting like a pro!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 21

– First, let’s talk about the battery – it’s stuck in place with two strips of double-sided tape, so we’ll need to carefully remove it.

– To loosen things up, heat an iOpener and apply it to the back of the phone’s left edge for about two minutes. If the tape is still being stubborn, you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 22

Watch out for that sneaky white antenna cable hiding along the edge of the battery! As you gently press down on the pick, make sure it doesn’t get caught. You’ve got this!

Having trouble getting the opening pick under the battery? Don’t sweat it! Just heat it up and reapply the iOpener as we went over in the previous step.

Another trick to help loosen things up is to apply some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to the edge. This should help weaken the adhesive and make it easier to get in there.

– First things first, flip that phone over like a pancake!

– Now, grab your trusty opening pick and gently press it down the right edge of the battery (it should feel nice and cozy). Wiggle it a bit to cut through the sticky stuff holding it down.

– After you’ve freed the right side of the battery, keep that pick in place to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 23

Alternatively, grab a plastic dropper or syringe and fill it up with some potent isopropyl alcohol. Now, just dribble a few drops of that magic liquid under both edges of the battery. Give it a little minute to work its charm and loosen that pesky battery adhesive.

– Heat up an iOpener and stick it to the back of the phone’s right edge for two minutes – you might need to give it a reheat and reapply to get the job done.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 24

If you notice your battery looking a bit wonky, it’s time to hit the pause button! Take a breather, then warm up that iOpener or apply a little more alcohol, just like we talked about in the previous step.

– Grab the corners of the battery’s right edge and gently lift it upwards like you’re raising a flag of victory.

– Once the battery is free from its sticky situation, carefully peel it away from the frame, as if you’re unwrapping a surprise.

– Now, go ahead and remove the battery with a sense of accomplishment!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 25

To keep things safe and sound, skip the idea of reusing an old battery. Let’s avoid any fire or chemical mishaps, shall we?

– Ready to give your device some fresh power? Start by sticking on those new adhesive strips and make sure the battery connector is lined up just right.

– Next up, grab those stretch release adhesive strips, double-sided tape, or pre-cut adhesive strips—whichever suits your fancy!

– Now, gently place that shiny new battery snugly into its cozy spot.

– Finally, take the flat end of a spudger or your finger and give that battery connector a little nudge to connect it to the motherboard. You’re almost there!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 26

– If your device is still playing hard to get after reconnecting the screen, it might have actually powered on quietly when you plugged the battery back in. Just give that power button a good long press until it vibrates off. Then, reconnect the screen and give it another shot!

– To put everything back together, simply reverse the steps you took earlier.

– Once you’ve wrapped up this guide, don’t forget to calibrate your shiny new battery!

– When it’s time to part with your e-waste, make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t worry! You can always find some troubleshooting help or advice.

– Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Success!

If your Pixel is being a bit shy and won’t turn on after reconnecting the screen, it might have secretly powered on when you hooked the battery back up. Give that power button a firm press for a few seconds until it gives a little vibration. Then, reconnect the screen and give it another shot!

To put your device back together, just follow the steps in reverse. Easy peasy!

Once you’ve wrapped up this guide, don’t forget to calibrate your shiny new battery for optimal performance.

Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to recycle it responsibly at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler!

If things didn’t go as smoothly as you’d hoped, no worries! Feel free to reach out for troubleshooting help.

And remember, if you ever feel stuck, you can always schedule a repair.

Google Pixel XL Teardown

Posted on July 25, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 19 Steps

Today, we’re diving into our first-ever teardown of a phone crafted from the ground up: the Pixel XL. What’s in store? Well, at first glance, it might remind you a bit of an iPhone, but we’re all about the guts! So, hold onto your Nougat, because we’re about to get hands-on and take this smartphone apart. For all the latest updates from the repair scene, be sure to follow us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter!

Step 1

– Reviews for these Pixel phones are in, and guess what? They’re looking great! Check out these impressive specs:

– 5.5″ AMOLED display boasting a stunning QHD 1440 x 2560 resolution (534 ppi) with durable 2.5D Gorilla Glass 4

– Featuring a powerful quad-core, 64-bit Qualcomm Snapdragon 821 processor (2.15 GHz + 1.6 GHz) coupled with 4GB LPDDR4 RAM

– Snap amazing photos with the 12.3-megapixel, f/2.0 main camera equipped with phase detection autofocus and laser detection autofocus, plus an 8 MP selfie camera for those perfect selfies!

– Choose between 32 GB or 128 GB of built-in storage to fit all your needs

– Enjoy the convenience of a Pixel Imprint back-mounted fingerprint sensor for quick unlocks

– Connect effortlessly with a USB Type-C port and a classic 3.5 mm headphone jack

– Running on Android 7.1 Nougat, you’re all set with the latest features!

Step 2

– This device may claim to be all about precision and performance, but it seems to have taken a few cues from the fruity side of things.

– While it shares some styling traits, the Pixel XL boasts unique features that distinguish it from its rosy rival:

– And guess what? It still rocks that headphone jack proudly located at the top of the phone!

– Say goodbye to the home button—this device has embraced on-screen buttons for a sleek, button-free front face.

– You’ll find a back-mounted fingerprint scanner, paired with a single rear-facing camera that keeps things nice and tidy without any unsightly bumps.

– Plus, it sports two stylish speaker slits instead of those bulky grilles, and a USB-C port, leaving behind the proprietary Lightning port.

Step 3

– This phone has a familiar look, so we’re feeling pretty confident. Let’s grab our iOpener, warm it up, and pick our opening tool.

– After heating it for a minute and gently prying it open, we lift the phone from the top, eager to see what’s inside.

– However, a bracket securing the display cable stops us in our tracks. Time to grab the driver and dive a little deeper.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 4

The display crafted by Samsung comes with the part number AMS546KD09.

– Let’s make this happen: detach the bracket, liberate the display, and claim victory! Those T5 Torx screws don’t stand a chance with the handy tools from the 64 Bit Driver Kit.

– Think of us as your repair superheroes—breaking things so you don’t have to! Every teardown is a chance to dive deep into how a device is built, helping us create guides that let you tackle repairs with confidence and ease.

– In this instance, the OLED panel decided to part ways with the digitizer glass a bit too smoothly for our taste. With ultra-slim components and no frame or bezel backing the display, it gets a bit dicey during removal. But don’t worry, we’re on the lookout for a smoother method next time!

– And tucked away behind the display panel is the Synaptics ClearPad S3708 touch controller, ready for action.

Step 5

When we talk about ‘rigid,’ we mean it shouldn’t be all wiggly. Well, surprise! It’s a little more flexible than we thought. No worries, it’ll straighten out just fine.

The daughterboard? It’s rocking a classic blue-green look; it’s got no family ties to the others.

– This sleek and sturdy midframe is probably crafted from magnesium and is secured tightly to the phone’s body.

– On the left side, this midframe is home to a quirky ribbon connector and the earpiece speaker.

– To the right, you’ll find the rest of the phone, complete with a motherboard that boasts a stylish matte black finish.

Step 6

Just a fun fact: the infamous Samsung Galaxy Note7, before going out with a bang, was equipped with a 13.48 Wh battery!

– When it comes to the ‘pull to remove’ battery tab, think of it as a clever little perforation in the sleeve. Just peel it away, and voilà, you’ve got a nifty pull tab ready to go!

– This HTC-made battery is held down by two strips of sturdy adhesive. But don’t worry, that pull tab is going to do the trick without needing any heat. Plus, it might even serve as a tamper-evident seal. How cool is that?

– With a capacity of 13.28 Wh, this battery outshines the 11.1 Wh iPhone 7 Plus, though it still falls a bit short compared to the Galaxy S7 Edge’s 13.86 Wh powerhouse. But hey, every battery has its strengths!

Step 7

Modularity is the way to go! These small components can be swapped out individually, making replacement parts a breeze – and your wallet will thank you.

– Let’s dive into the delightful world of Pixel parts!

– First up, we have a quirky combo: the laser autofocus and microphone board. Quite the duo!

– Next, let’s liberate the 3.5 mm headphone jack. (A little farewell to those Lightning headphones!)

– And last but not least, we’re removing the 8-megapixel front-facing (selfie) camera. Smile for the camera!

Step 8

These little components can be a bit tricky! In many other devices, you’ll often find them cozying up together on the main board. When there’s more modularity, it translates to more wallet-friendly and hassle-free repairs—if one part goes kaput, there’s no need to swap out the whole motherboard or dive into a tricky microsoldering escapade.

– Let’s take a peek at this motherboard, but hold on—there’s a sneaky little fingerprint sensor cable trying to trip us up! Luckily, disarming it is a breeze.

– Up next is a mini board housing the microphone and the rangefinder that works its magic with the XL’s laser autofocus.

– Teardown Update: That blue ‘mystery’ component hanging out next to the main camera? It’s probably a passive inductor, given its two solder pads and that nifty copper wire coil.

Step 9

– Alright, it’s time to say goodbye to that impressive rear-facing camera! With its 12.3 megapixels, it certainly holds its own—though it might not have that snazzy optical image stabilization we’ve seen in this season’s iPhones.

– Check out the rear- and front-facing cameras side by side for a quick size comparison!

– Take a closer look at the sensor and optics of the main camera!

– And here’s a fun peek at the primary camera with some X-ray vision magic! (Thanks to Creative Electron for the inspiration!)

Step 10

– Let’s dive into the heart of your device! Here are the chips you’ll find on the front of the motherboard:

– First up, we’ve got the Samsung K3RG2G20BM-MGCJ, a snazzy 4 GB LPDDR4 mobile DRAM, working alongside a quad-core Qualcomm Snapdragon 821 processor. With two cores strutting their stuff at 2.15 GHz and the other two at 1.6 GHz, this duo knows how to keep things running smoothly!

– Next in line is the Qualcomm PMI8996, our power management champion, paired with the Qualcomm SMB1350. They make sure your device charges quickly with that Quick Charge 3.0 magic!

– Now, let’s not forget the NXP Semiconductor TFA9891, your go-to for smart audio amplification! It’s all about making your sound experience top-notch.

– And of course, the Qualcomm WTR4905 LTE RF transceiver is here, ensuring you stay connected no matter where you are.

– Spotted a chip that looks like Wi-Fi? That’s our 3207RA G707A, bringing you wireless goodness!

– You might also see the NXP 55102 1807 S0622 – a nifty NFC controller that’s ready for your near field communication needs.

– Last but not least, we have the Bosch Sensortec BMI160, a low-power IMU that keeps your device aware of its surroundings!

Step 11

– Let’s take a peek at the back, shall we?

– We’ve got the Samsung KLUBG4G1CE-B0B1, a snazzy 32 GB Universal Flash Storage (UFS) 2.0.

– Next up is the Qualcomm PM8996 Power Management IC, keeping everything powered up.

– Don’t forget the Avago ACPM-7800 power amplifier, delivering that sweet audio boost.

– We’ve got the Qualcomm WTR3925 LTE RF transceiver, paired with the Qualcomm RF360 Dynamic Antenna Matching Tuner (QFE2550) for top-notch connectivity.

– The Qualcomm WCD9335 audio codec is here to make your sound crisp and clear.

– Say hello to the Skyworks SKY77807 Quad-Band Power Amplifier Module (PAM), enhancing your signal.

– And last but not least, the Bosch Sensortec BMP280 series barometric pressure sensor, giving you accurate weather data right on your device!

Step 12

– Get ready for some IC identification fun, part 2!

– Meet the AKM Semiconductor AK09915C, your trusty 3-axis electronic compass.

– Next up, we’ve got the STMicroelectronics STM32F412RG, a powerful 32-bit ARM Cortex-M4 with a cool 1 Mb flash (probably).

– Say hello to the Texas Instruments TPA2011D1, a 3.2 W mono class-D audio amplifier that packs a punch.

– Don’t forget about the ON Semiconductor FSA3000L10X, a nifty two-port USB-2.0 MHL DPDT switch.

– Check out the Maxim Integrated MAX14589E, your go-to DPDT analog switch.

– Now, let’s give a shoutout to the Texas Instruments TPS65633B, handling AMOLED display power management like a pro.

– Finally, meet the ABLIC, Inc. (formerly Seiko Instruments) S-1000C17-I4T1U, a reliable 1.7 V voltage detector.

Step 13

– Time to identify those ICs, part three!

– First up, we’ve got the ON Semiconductor FPF2281BUCX-F130 to keep your device safe from over-voltage mishaps.

– Next, say hello to the Texas Instruments TPS61240, your trusty 450 mA boost converter.

– Then, we’ve got the Texas Instruments TLV707285P, delivering 200 mA of power as a reliable LDO regulator.

– Don’t forget the Ricoh RP115L171B5, a solid 500 mA LDO regulator – it’s got your back.

– And last but not least, the ON Semiconductor NCP134AMX110TCG, another 500 mA LDO regulator ready to lend a hand.

Step 14

– Let’s dive into the fun part of IC Identification, part 4:

– You’ll be on the lookout for the Qualcomm QFE3100 envelope tracker – it’s a key player in this show!

– Next up is the Sony CXM3642K SP12T + SP9T antenna switch module. It’s like the traffic cop for signals!

– Don’t forget the Qorvo TQQ1013 band 13 SAW duplexer, working hard to keep those frequencies in line.

– Also, keep your eyes peeled for the Qorvo TQM963014 BC14/BC1/B25 BAW duplexer – it’s a multitasker!

– You might spot the Sony CXA4416 SP6T antenna switch (likely) – it’s got a good chance of making an appearance.

– And lastly, an antenna tuner (likely) might just be hanging out around here too!

Step 15

– The daughterboard easily pops out of the rear case, granting us access to the USB Type-C port and the microphone. How convenient!

– This part is pretty straightforward, which translates to wallet-friendly USB port replacements. Historically, USB ports have been known to fail, but hey, USB Type-C might just be a tougher cookie in that department!

– We stumbled upon a few silicon goodies on the daughterboard:

– But, let’s be real, USB-C has had its share of quirks.

– Qualcomm QFE2550 dynamic antenna matching tuner.

– AKM Semiconductor AK8789 Hall-effect sensor.

– NXP Semiconductor PTN36241G USB 3.0 redriver.

– ON Semiconductor FUSB340 USB 3.1 SuperSpeed 10 Gbps switch.

Step 16

Now that we have almost everything out of the case, it’s pretty impressive how little we’ve found that screams HTC manufacturing. It’s like a mystery waiting to be solved!

– Let’s get started by gently prying the Pixel Imprint fingerprint sensor out of its cozy spot in the rear case.

– Taking a closer look, you’ll notice it has a unique design, similar to those found in other smartphones.

– Interestingly, despite being a major player in the smartphone game, the only noticeable contribution from the manufacturer is the battery. If you’re not feeling confident, remember that you can always schedule a repair with the experts at Salvation Repair.

Step 17

– Still attached to the Pixel XL’s frame is the oscillating linear vibration motor, and that’s exactly where we want it! A little peek with X-ray vision reveals it doing its thing.

– Check out this cool video where we put the Pixel’s motor up against the latest Taptic Engine from the iPhone 7 Plus. It’s a fun comparison!

Step 18

Heads up: We had some X-Ray images in our toolkit to help light our path, and surprise, surprise, we found just what we were looking for: a tiny bit of weight nestled among the wee springs.

– Teardown Update: You asked, and we delivered—check out this up-close (and way less shaky) look at that buzzing motor.

– Honestly, that plain shiny metal box on the vibrator didn’t wow us, so we decided to give the casing a little makeover with a rotary tool, all in the name of science!

– The fancy term for this little marvel is the linear oscillator, which is just a weighted magnetic core doing its dance between two springy metals. The way it vibrates gives you that tactile feedback, creating a virtual click without needing any moving parts!

Step 19

– Here’s a high-res snapshot of some top-notch Pixel parts, just for you!

Success!

Asus ZenWatch 3 Teardown

Posted on July 25, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 8 Steps

Step 1

– Grab your trusty T5 screwdriver because that’s the tool of the hour!

Step 2

– Time to set the band free! Gently pop out those pesky pins holding it in place.

Step 3

– Let’s get that device open! Start by unscrewing those four screws. You’re on your way to a smooth repair!

Step 4

– Gently pry open the side near that stylish rose gold ring!

Step 5

– The battery will disconnect automatically, making it safe to proceed with the repair. If you’re not comfortable with this step, don’t worry – it’s a normal part of the process.

Step 6

– Battery

– Alright, let’s dive into the world of batteries! First off, if your device is acting sluggish, it might just be a battery issue. Not to worry, you’re in the right place to get things sorted out! Make sure to gather your tools, and let’s tackle this together. Remember, we’re here to help you keep your device running smoothly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 7

– Gently detach the ribbons attached to the board, like peeling a sticker off a fresh notebook. Take your time and be careful!

Step 8

– Get ready to dive in and take things apart! It’s time for some complete disassembly, where you’ll be removing all the components with care. Just remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

ASUS ZenWatch Motherboard Replacement

Posted on July 25, 2025August 8, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 9 Steps

A fun and straightforward guide to help you tackle the removal and replacement of a wonky motherboard. Dive in and let’s get that device back in action! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Check out the strap for a nifty little knob. Just slide that knob towards the other side of the strap and voila! The tension on the spring bar will release, making it super easy to pull the strap out.

Step 2

Keep all your parts organized and in one spot with the magnetic pad! It’s a total game changer.

– Grab your T5 Torx driver and tackle those four screws holding the case in place. You’ve got this!

– Once those screws are gone, just give the case a gentle nudge, and it should pop right off without any fuss.

Step 3

Be gentle when removing the fabric, too much force can damage the contact with the metal tweezers, and we want to make this repair a success!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and delicately peel away the fabric that’s keeping the battery connection cozy.

– Next, take the heavy-duty spudger and gently nudge that contact towards the top of the case like you’re giving it a little boost.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 4

– Carefully nudge the battery upwards with your trusty plastic pry tools.

Step 5

There are two connection ports on the single ribbon. Handle with care—don’t yank too hard or you might tear that ribbon apart!

– Grab those metal tweezers and carefully peel back the fabric covering the connection on the bottom right. You’ve got this!

– Next up, take your sturdy plastic spudger and gently pry upwards on the connection ribbon. Easy-peasy!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 6

Look for those little notches on the plate; they’re your best friends for easily lifting it up from both sides!

Don’t forget there’s a small strip of adhesive on the back of the plate too, giving it a little extra hold.

– Time to say goodbye to the protective plate—it’s ready to come off safely!

– Grab your trusty heavy-duty spudger and gently pry up on the metal plate, moving in a counter-clockwise direction.

– Now, carefully lift away the loosened plate and set it aside for now.

Step 7

– Grab your trusty 000 Philips screwdriver and gently remove that screw along with the plastic retainer clips. You’ve got this!

Step 8

– Using a sturdy spudger, gently lift the final connection ribbon found in the left corner. You’re almost there!

Step 9

– Alright, it’s time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse. You’ve got this!

– If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

Now it’s time to put your gadget back together—just retrace your steps like a pro! And remember, if you hit a snag or feel a bit overwhelmed, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!