Month: August 2025

– First things first, let’s disconnect any cables hanging off your phone. We don’t want any accidental trips, right?

– Now, give that power button a nice long press along with either volume button, then slide to power off your phone. You’ve got this!

– If your screen or back glass is pretty shattered, lay some overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass. This helps protect your fingers and makes the disassembly a bit smoother. When you’re ready to move forward, if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 7.8 mm screws on either side of the charging port. Nice and steady – you’re doing great!

– Take a moment to measure out 3 mm from the tip and give that opening pick a little love tap with a permanent marker to mark your spot!

– Place a warm iOpener on the bottom edge of the back glass and let it work its magic for 90 seconds.

– Place the suction handle carefully on the lower edge of the back glass.

– Gently pull on the handle with consistent force to create a little space between the back glass and the frame.

– Slide the tip of your opening pick into that gap and get ready to move on!

– Carefully locate the fragile cable that links the back glass to your phone, right next to the volume up button. Treat it like the delicate treasure it is!

– Keep an eye out for the array of spring contacts that line the edge of your phone. They’re just hanging out, waiting to be noticed!

– Slide the opening pick gently along the bottom of the back glass to gently break the adhesive seal.

– Keep the opening pick near the bottom left corner as you work, staying close to where the magic happens.

– Heat up your trusty iOpener and give that left edge of the back glass a warm hug for a solid 90 seconds.

– Gently spin the opening pick around the bottom left corner and glide it up along the left edge to loosen the adhesive and free those stubborn metal clips.

– Keep the opening pick hanging out near the top left corner, ready for the next move.

– Heat up the top edge of the back glass with an iOpener for about 90 seconds—think of it as giving your phone a warm spa treatment before the big repair.

– Start by gently rotating the opening pick around the top left corner, then slide it along the top edge. This will separate the adhesive and let you pop those metal clips free. Easy does it!

– Leave the opening pick in the top right corner for now, just letting it chill there while you move on to the next step.

– Warm up the right edge of the back glass with a heated iOpener for about 90 seconds. Keep the heat steady to loosen things up.

– Gently swing the opening pick around the top right corner, then glide it along the right edge to loosen and lift away the remaining adhesive and metal clip. Take your time and keep it steady—you’re almost there! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently swing open the back glass on the right side of the phone and prop it up on a clean, sturdy surface to keep things steady.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and carefully remove the two 1.3mm screws that are keeping that lower connector cover in place. Piece of cake, right?

– Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers to lift the bottom connector cover. Slide it upward toward the top of the phone to unclip it from its metal latch. Once it’s free, you can remove the cover completely. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair for extra help.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up that battery press connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and remove that 1.0 mm-long screw holding down the middle connector cover. You’ve got this!

– Take the pointy end of your spudger and gently nudge the middle connector cover down toward the bottom of your phone to pop those clips loose.

– Now, use your trusty tweezers or fingers to carefully lift the cover away and set it aside.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and unplug the wireless charging coil press connector. Keep it cool and steady!

– Time to give that back glass a little nudge! Gently lift it off the frame and set it aside. You’re one step closer to a smooth repair!

– Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and take out the two screws holding down the top connector cover:

– One screw that’s 1.0 mm long

– One screw that’s 1.3 mm long

– Gently grab the front camera bracket with tweezers or your fingers and lift it out like a pro.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up those two front camera connectors. Nice and easy—disconnect them like a pro!

– Gently slide the tip of a spudger between the front camera assembly and the frame.

– Carefully lift the front camera assembly, wiggling it just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Now, remove the front camera assembly with a little finesse.

– Gently wedge the tip of your trusty spudger under the rear camera assembly connector and give it a little nudge to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three screws holding the rear camera assembly in place.

– Use a standoff screwdriver to carefully remove the 2.4mm screw that’s keeping the camera spacer snug.

– Next up, take out two 2.3mm screws.

– Finally, finish off with one 2.5mm screw to wrap it all up.

– Grab your tweezers (or just use your fingers) and lift out the camera spacer like a pro. No sweat!

– Gently pop the rear camera assembly up using the tip of your spudger—just enough so you can grab it like a pro.

– Lift out the rear camera assembly and set it aside. Nice work!

– Awesome job on getting your device all disassembled! Now, let’s dive into the fun part—putting it all back together. Follow these steps, and you’ll have your gadget up and running in no time!

– Gently drop the rear camera assembly into its spot in the frame—like it’s coming home after a long day.

– Gently slide the rear camera assembly cable back into its spot next to the battery—like tucking in a little tech burrito.

– Gently slide the camera spacer into its cozy spot in the frame. It’s a perfect fit—just like a puzzle piece!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and secure the rear camera assembly with three screws—easy does it!

– Switch to a standoff screwdriver to pop in the 2.4 mm-long screw for the camera spacer. Precision time!

– Tighten up two 2.3 mm-long screws. One more for good measure!

– Finish off with one 2.5 mm-long screw. Camera assembly: locked and loaded.

– Grab a spudger or just use your fingers and gently connect the rear camera assembly press connector. Easy does it—just a little press to reconnect that connection.

– Gently slide the front camera assembly into its spot in the frame, making sure it fits snugly.

– Give the assembly a light press to make sure it’s seated flat and secure.

– Gently slide the rear camera assembly cable back into its slot, nestling it along the battery like a cozy little pathway. If you run into any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair to get expert help.

– Grab your spudger or just your trusty fingers and gently press those front camera assembly connectors back together. You’ve got this!

– Pop that front top connector cover right on the logic board, making sure it sits snugly over those three press connectors.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and get ready to secure that top connector cover like a pro:

– First up, you’ll need one 1.0 mm-long screw.

– And don’t forget a 1.3 mm-long screw to complete the job!

– Grab your tweezers and carefully peel away the adhesive hugging the frame’s edge.

– Take a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth, dab it in some high-strength isopropyl alcohol (over 90%), and wipe away any sticky leftovers.

– Place your replacement adhesive onto the frame, making sure the bigger blue liner is underneath and the pull tab is tucked neatly in the bottom-right corner.

– Use handy landmarks like the camera hole and edge notches to line up the adhesive perfectly with the frame.

– Grab the pull tab and start peeling the back liner off the adhesive from the bottom—but don’t go wild and rip it all off just yet.

– Swing that blue liner aside for a sec and line up the adhesive with the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Nestle the bottom edge of the adhesive into its spot in the frame, making sure those spring contacts on your iPhone are cozy in their cutouts in the liner.

– Keep peeling the back liner off that adhesive like a pro, all while giving it a gentle press to secure it snugly along the edges of your iPhone’s frame.

– Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive into place around the perimeter of the frame.

– Gently use the end of your spudger to lift the pull tab located in the top right corner of the pink adhesive liner until you can comfortably grab it with your fingers.

– Peel back the pink liner from the frame using the pull tab to expose the blue liners underneath

– Gently lift the back glass on the right side of your iPhone, using a sturdy box or similar item to give it a little boost.

– Grab your trusty spudger or your finger and snugly connect the charging coil press connector, followed by the battery press connector.

– Place the middle connector cover over the wireless charging coil press connector, making sure it slightly overlaps the slot on the logic board where the bottom clip fits.

– Gently press the cover down onto the logic board with your finger. Then, while keeping that pressure, slide the cover upward so the metal clips slide into their designated slots on the logic board. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your tweezers and gently set the top part of the lower connector cover into its spot on the logic board.

– Carefully position the lower connector cover over the press connector like a pro.

– Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and tighten up that 1.0 mm screw to secure the middle connector cover. It’s a small screw, but it does a big job!

– Now, use that same tri-point Y000 screwdriver to snug down the two 1.3 mm screws for the lower connector cover. Easy peasy, right?

– Grab your tweezers and pinch those pull tabs on the three blue liners. Peel ’em off to reveal the sticky side underneath.

– Position the back glass just above your phone and get it in line with the frame. You’ve got this!

– Place the back glass gently onto the frame, then press down until you hear the clips click into place.

– Run your fingers around the edges of the back glass to make sure all the clips are securely locked in.

– To help the adhesive set, gently heat the edges of the back glass with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it’s warm and touchable. Then, press firmly around the edges of the back glass. If you have screen vise clamps, use them to boost the bonding strength of your new adhesive. No clamps? No worries—keep reading for other ways to secure the back glass. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lay your iPhone face down on a soft, flat surface—let’s keep that screen safe and sound!

– Give the back glass a little TLC by applying tape to protect its finish. A small step for a big win!

– Lay down a layer of coins or similar thick objects along the edges of the back glass. Spread them out evenly and ensure they’re at least as tall as the camera bump to keep everything level.

– Grab a stack of your favorite hefty books or some solid objects and pile them on top of your iPhone.

– Let that weight do its thing for at least thirty minutes. If you’ve chosen lighter items, feel free to let them hang out a bit longer. For the best results, consider leaving them stacked overnight!

– Once you’ve finished your repair, be sure to calibrate your genuine replacement rear camera assembly using Apple’s Repair Assistant. Just head to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the prompts on screen.

– Don’t forget to recycle your e-waste responsibly by taking it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go exactly as planned, no worries! Try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our iPhone 16e Answers Community for a hand.

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– Time to unplug those cables from your phone and set them aside, no distractions here!

– Now, hold down the power button and one of the volume buttons. Once you see the power-off slider, slide it to turn off your phone. It’s like giving your phone a quick nap!

– If your screen or back glass has seen better days and is sporting some serious cracks, grab some packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the glass. This little trick will keep you safe and make the disassembly process a breeze!

– Grab your P2 pentalobe screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 7.8 mm screws flanking the charging port. Keep these little guys safe—they’re key to moving forward!

– Grab your measuring tool and measure 3 mm from the tip. Use a permanent marker to mark the opening pick at that spot.

– Place a heated iOpener on the bottom edge of the back glass and let it work its magic for 90 seconds.

– Stick a suction handle right at the bottom edge of the back glass.

– Give the handle a firm, steady tug upward to gently pry a gap between the back glass and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you just created.

– You’ve got a slender little cable that links the back glass to your phone, snugly sitting next to the volume up button. Handle it with care!

– Look out for a bunch of spring contacts hugging the edges of your phone. They’re all around, ready to spring into action!

– Glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the back glass—think of it as slicing through invisible glue.

– Keep that pick chillin’ near the lower left corner for now.

– Place a heated iOpener on the left edge of the back glass and hold it there for about 90 seconds. This gently softens the adhesive, making the glass easier to lift. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your opening pick and gently rotate it around the bottom left corner. Slide it along the left edge to break that adhesive seal and release those metal clips. Smooth and easy!

– Keep that opening pick close to the top left corner – you’re almost there!

– Heat up an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back glass for 90 seconds. This will make things a lot easier to work with, so take your time and let the heat do its magic!

– Take your opening pick and gently rotate it around the top left corner. Slide it along the top edge to break through the adhesive and loosen those pesky metal clips.

– Keep that pick in place in the top right corner while you move on to the next step.

– Warm up that trusty iOpener and give the right edge of the back glass a cozy 90 seconds of heat. Let’s get that glass ready for action!

– Gently work the opening pick around the top right corner, then slide it along the right edge to carefully detach the last bit of adhesive and metal clip. Take your time and be patient – you’re almost there!

– Gently swing the back glass open toward the right side of the phone, then prop it up safely on a clean, sturdy surface so it stays put.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and let’s tackle those two tiny 1.3 mm screws holding down the lower connector cover. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers or use your fingers like a pro to lift up the lower connector cover. Gently slide it toward the top of the phone—think of it as helping it make a smooth getaway from its metal clip.

– Take off the lower connector cover and set it aside for its well-deserved break.

– Grab your spudger and gently pry up the battery press connector to disconnect it. Take your time—patience is key here! If you need help along the way, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and carefully remove the tiny 1.0 mm screw holding down the middle connector cover. Keep it safe!

– Grab a spudger and gently nudge the middle connector cover toward the bottom of your phone—those little clips will pop loose.

– Now, use tweezers or just your fingers to lift the cover out. Smooth moves!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and unplug the wireless charging coil press connector.

– Gently pop the back glass away from the frame and lift it off.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the two 2.2mm screws holding the Taptic Engine connector cover in place. Easy does it!

– Gently use tweezers or your fingers to lift off the Taptic Engine connector cover.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the tip to disconnect the Taptic Engine press connector. Keep it light—you’re just teasing it loose.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.1mm-long screw that’s keeping the Taptic Engine in place.

– Gently pop up the Taptic Engine using the tip of your spudger—think of it as giving the engine a little nudge to stand up and say hello.

– Once it’s up, grab it with your fingers and lift it out. Taptic Engine, meet freedom.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those four screws holding the loudspeaker out of there!

– Now, switch it up with a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to tackle that 1.3 mm-long screw.

– Next up, you’ll need to find two 1.4 mm-long screws to remove.

– And don’t forget about those two 1.7 mm-long screws waiting to be set free!

– Gently nudge the loudspeaker out of its cozy little home in the frame using the spudger’s pointy end, and then give it a warm farewell as you lift it out.

– If that orange loudspeaker gasket decided to take a quick vacation during disassembly, grab your tweezers and pop it back into the sound channel where it belongs.

– Slide the flat end of your spudger right between the screw cover and the microphone like a pro.

– Give that spudger a little twist to break through the adhesive hiding underneath and pop free the metal clip.

– Carefully nudge the cover upward with your finger to expose the last standoff screw waiting underneath.

– Grab a standoff screwdriver and gently unscrew the pair of screws holding down the microphone, like you’re opening a tiny treasure chest.

– Switch to a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to loosen the 1.3 mm-long screw securing the microphone — think of it as unscrewing a secret handshake.

– Find the 3.0 mm-long screw and remove it with your screwdriver — it’s the extra-long guest at the screw party.

– Finally, locate the 2.8 mm-long screw and take it out; you’re almost there, just a little more unscrewing fun ahead.

– Gently pry up the microphone with the flat end of a spudger just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Gently pull the microphone away from the frame to peel away the adhesive holding it in place.

– Carefully remove the microphone from its spot.

– Great job on getting through the disassembly! Now, let’s walk through the reassembly steps to bring your device back to life. Keep a steady hand and follow along — before you know it, your device will be good as new. If you run into any snags, remember, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for extra help.

– Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers to gently peel away the old adhesive lurking at the bottom of the frame. It’s like a little treasure hunt!

– If you spot any sticky residue sticking around, whip out some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (over 90% is the magic number) and a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth to give that frame a nice, clean shine.

– Hold that microphone adhesive steady with one hand, and with the other, carefully peel off the white liner using your fingers or tweezers. Take it slow and steady, you got this!

– Grab the microphone and make sure the metal side is facing up – like it’s ready to sing its best performance.

– Now, apply the adhesive to the microphone, keeping the pull tab pointing up. This helps it stick just right.

– Peel off the blue backing from the microphone adhesive and get ready for the next step.

– Angle that microphone downward and let the sticky stuff grab onto the frame around the sound channel.

– Give it a good press to make sure it’s locked in and not going anywhere.

– While keeping the microphone pressed against the frame for stability, grab a standoff screwdriver to secure it with two screws. Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to tighten the single 1.0 mm screw that holds the microphone in place. Then, insert the 3.0 mm and 2.8 mm screws into their respective spots. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to press the microphone connector into place. Take your time, and make sure it’s snug—like tucking in a little microphone!

– Press the screw cover back into place with your finger, giving it a little nudge to make sure it’s snug. You’ve got this!

– Gently slot the loudspeaker into its designated cutout in the frame, making sure it seats snugly. If you need a hand or run into trouble, you can always schedule a repair to get professional help.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and loosen five screws holding the loudspeaker in place—easy does it. Then, switch to a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to tighten one tiny 1.3 mm screw. Next, find the two 1.4 mm screws and secure them, followed by the two 1.7 mm screws. Keep track of each screw size so you don’t mix things up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide the Taptic Engine into its cozy little home in the frame.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully secure the Taptic Engine with the 2.1 mm-long screw. Just a little twist, and you’re good to go!

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to reconnect the Taptic Engine press connector—easy does it!

– Gently slide the cover over the Taptic Engine connector, making sure it sits snugly. Keep it friendly and straightforward—you’re on your way! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and tighten down the pair of 2.2 mm screws that hold in the Taptic Engine connector cover. Easy does it—just enough to secure it in place.

– Grab your tweezers and carefully peel away the adhesive hugging the frame’s edges.

– Take a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth soaked in high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) and wipe away any leftover sticky residue.

– Place your replacement adhesive onto the frame, making sure the bigger blue liner is underneath and the pull tab is positioned at the bottom-right corner.

– Use the camera hole and edge notches as your guides to line up the adhesive perfectly within the frame.

– Grab that pull tab and start peeling the back liner off the adhesive from the bottom—just don’t go all the way yet, keep it classy.

– Swing the blue liner outta the way and line up the adhesive with the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Set the bottom edge of the adhesive into its spot in the frame, making sure those spring contacts on your iPhone are chillin’ right in their cutouts in the liner.

– Keep peeling off that back liner and gently press the adhesive down along the edges of the iPhone’s frame. Nice and steady, you’ve got this!

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently press the adhesive all around the edge of the frame—think of it as tucking in a cozy blanket so everything stays snug.

– Gently use the spudger’s tip to raise the pull tab located at the top right corner of that lovely pink adhesive liner until you can snag it with your fingers.

– Grab that pull tab and peel off the pink liner from the frame to reveal the glorious blue liners underneath.

– Carefully prop up the back glass along the right side of your iPhone, using a box or any sturdy object to keep it steady.

– Gently press the charging coil connector into place using the flat end of a spudger or your finger, then do the same for the battery connector.

– Set the middle connector cover on top of the wireless charging coil press connector, letting it hang just a bit over the slot on the logic board for the bottom clip. It’s like a cozy little hat—make sure it sits right!

– Give that cover a gentle press with your finger so it sits snugly on the logic board.

– Keep holding it down and slide the cover up until the metal clips snap perfectly into place.

– Grab those tweezers and gently position the top of the lower connector cover right above its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Now, delicately lay the lower connector cover over the press connector like it’s settling in for a nice nap.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and get to work installing the 1.0mm-long screw that holds the middle connector cover in place. It’s a small but mighty screw!

– Now, take the same tri-point Y000 screwdriver and secure the two 1.3mm-long screws that keep the lower connector cover snug and secure. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently tug on the three blue liners. Peel them off to reveal the sticky goodness underneath, and you’re all set!

– Carefully position the back glass just above the phone and line it up with the frame. Take a deep breath, it’s almost time for the finishing touch!

– Gently place the back glass down onto the frame and give it a little press until the clips snap into place.

– Give a light press around the edges of the back glass to make sure all the clips are happily engaged.

– Warm up the edges of the back glass using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it feels nice and toasty to the touch—this helps the adhesive stick like a charm.

– Give the perimeter of the back glass a good, firm press. If you have screen vise clamps, pop them on to hold everything tight while the adhesive sets. No clamps? No worries, keep going for other ways to get that back glass secure.

– If your iPhone came in a box, grab the lid and set it on a flat surface. Place your iPhone screen-side-up inside the lid, making sure the camera bump fits into its recess. Find an object roughly the same size as your iPhone but taller than the sides of the box, then stack it on top, followed by a few heavy items. Keep everything stacked for at least thirty minutes—lighter objects mean you should leave it longer. For best results, leave it overnight. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Flip the iPhone screen-side down and gently place it on a soft, flat surface. Make sure it’s comfy!

– Stick some tape to the back glass to keep it looking pristine while you work. No scratches on our watch!

– Lay down a layer of coins or other objects with similar thickness on the tape around the edges of the back glass.

– Space out the coins evenly and make sure they’re at least as thick as the camera bump.

– Gather some hefty books or anything with a bit of weight and pile them on top of your iPhone.

– Let gravity do its thing for at least half an hour. If your stack is on the lighter side, give it more time—overnight works best if you’re feeling patient.

– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe screwdriver and let’s get those two 7.8 mm-long screws snugly in place on either side of the charging port. You’re doing great!

– First things first, let’s disconnect those cables from your phone. Give them a gentle tug and set them aside.

– Now, press and hold the power button along with either of the volume buttons, and then slide to power off your phone. You’re on your way to a smooth repair!

– Got a screen or back glass that’s looking like modern art? Cover it with overlapping strips of packing tape to save your fingers and make taking things apart way smoother.

– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe screwdriver and get ready to tackle those two 7.8 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port. You’ve got this!

– Mark a spot 3 mm from the tip on your opening pick using a permanent marker—precision is key!

– Heat things up a bit by applying a warm iOpener to the bottom edge of the back glass for a cozy 90 seconds.

– Stick a suction handle onto the lower edge of the back glass—like you’re giving your device a little handlebar mustache.

– Give that handle a confident, steady pull to crack open a gap between the glass and the frame. Patience and muscle—your new best friends.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made. Time to work your magic!

– There’s a fragile little cable hooking up the back glass right by the volume up button—handle it with care!

– Around the edges of the phone, you’ll find several springy contacts ready to do their thing.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the back glass to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick near the bottom left corner to start. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the left edge of the back glass with a heated iOpener for about 90 seconds. Let it soak in that heat so the adhesive gets nice and soft.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner, then smoothly move it along the left edge to break the adhesive and free the metal clips.

– Keep the opening pick hanging out near the top left corner, ready for the next move.

– Heat up your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back glass for about 90 seconds. This will help soften things up so you can get to work. Take your time and make sure it’s nice and warm!

– Gently spin the opening pick around the top left corner, then slide it along the top edge to loosen the adhesive and pop those metal clips free.

– Keep that opening pick wedged in the top right corner for now.

– Press a heated iOpener against the right edge of the back glass and hold it there for about 90 seconds. This helps loosen the adhesive and makes your next steps smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently rotate the opening pick around the top right corner and glide it along the right edge to loosen the remaining adhesive and lift the metal clip. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Carefully swing open the back glass to the right side of the phone and prop it up against a clean, sturdy surface to keep it steady.

– Grab a tri-point Y000 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 1.3mm screws holding down the lower connector cover. Easy peasy, right?

– Gently grab the lower connector cover with your tweezers or fingers, then give it a little slide towards the top of the phone to detach it from the metal clip.

– Now, go ahead and remove that lower connector cover.

– Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to lift and unplug the battery press connector with care.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and go ahead and unscrew that 1.0 mm-long screw holding down the middle connector cover. You’ve got this!

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge the middle connector cover down towards the bottom of the phone to pop those clips loose. You’ve got this!

– Now, with a little finesse, use tweezers or your fingers to lift that cover off. Easy peasy!

– Gently use the spudger’s tip to lift and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector. Take it easy, and make sure to keep everything in place—no rush!

– Gently lift the back glass away from the frame and set it aside.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four screws holding the loudspeaker in place.

– Next up, you’ll need a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to carefully remove the tiny 1.3mm screw. Take it slow, you’ve got this!

– Now, go for two 1.4mm screws and remove them with precision. No rush, just steady hands.

– Almost there—finish it off by unscrewing the two 1.7mm screws. You’ve got the hang of this now!

– Gently pry up the loudspeaker using the tip of the spudger and pop it right out of the frame.

– If the orange loudspeaker gasket took a little vacation during disassembly, grab your trusty tweezers and gently guide it back into the sound channel. You’ve got this!

– Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show you how to reassemble your device.

– Gently slot the loudspeaker into its designated opening in the frame, making sure it sits snugly and securely. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and tighten down the four screws holding in the loudspeaker—easy peasy. Switch to a Y000 tri-point screwdriver to snug up that 1.3 mm‑long screw. Then, secure the two 1.4 mm‑long screws and the two 1.7 mm‑long screws in place. If you need a hand with any of this, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab some tweezers and gently lift away the adhesive sealing the frame’s edge.

– Then, grab a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth, and dip it in some high-percentage isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to wipe away any leftover sticky residue.

– Get your replacement adhesive ready to rock! Position it over the frame with the bigger blue liner facing down and the handy pull tab nestled in the bottom-right corner.

– Use those cool features like the camera cutout and the notches on the edges to picture how the adhesive will fit snugly in the frame.

– Grab that pull tab and start peeling the back liner off the adhesive from the bottom—but don’t go wild and take it all off just yet.

– Flip the blue liner out of your way, line up the adhesive with the bottom edge of your iPhone, and get ready to stick it down.

– Set the bottom edge of the adhesive into its little nook in the frame, making sure those spring contacts are chilling in their proper cutouts.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently press the adhesive into place around the edges of the frame. You’ve got this!

– Use the spudger’s tip to gently lift the pull tab in the top right corner of the pink adhesive liner. Once it’s popped up, you should be able to grab it with your fingers and keep going!

– Grab that handy pull tab and give it a gentle tug to peel away the pink liner from the frame. This will reveal the secondary blue liners, ready for action!

– Let’s get that back glass supported! Prop it up along the right edge of your iPhone using a sturdy box or something similar to keep it nice and steady.

– Now, grab your trusty spudger or just your finger, and give the charging coil press connector a gentle nudge to connect it. Once that’s done, it’s time to tackle the battery press connector next!

– Go ahead and position that middle connector cover right over the wireless charging coil press connector, letting it hang just a smidge over the logic board’s bottom clip slot. You’re doing great!

– Give that cover a gentle press down onto the logic board with your finger. You’re doing great!

– While keeping the pressure on, slide the cover up so those little metal clips can happily slot into their designated homes on the logic board.

– Grab your tweezers and gently set the top part of the lower connector cover into its spot on the logic board.

– Carefully lay the lower connector cover right over the press connector like a pro.

– Grab your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and pop in the 1.0 mm screw to lock down the middle connector cover.

– Next up, use that same tri-point Y000 screwdriver to fasten the two 1.3 mm screws holding the lower connector cover in place.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully pull the three blue liners by their tabs. Peel them away to reveal the sticky adhesive underneath. Easy, right?

– Lift the back glass and carefully line it up with the phone’s frame like a pro puzzle solver.

– Gently set the back glass onto the frame, making sure it lays flat, then press down until all the clips snap into place.

– Work your way around the edges of the back glass, pressing lightly to ensure every clip clicks securely.

– Warm up the edges of the back glass with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it feels nice and toasty. This helps the adhesive stick like a champ.

– Go ahead and press firmly all around the perimeter of the back glass to seal it up. If you have screen vise clamps, now’s their moment to shine—use them to really lock in that bond. No clamps? No worries, keep cruising for more ways to make sure your back glass stays put.

– Grab the lid from your iPhone’s original box and set it down on a flat surface.

– Place your iPhone face-up inside the lid, making sure the camera bump fits snugly into its little spot.

– Find an object about the size of your iPhone but taller than the box’s sides. Stack it on top of the phone, then pile on some weighty items.

– Let everything chill like this for at least thirty minutes. If your weights are on the lighter side, give it more time—overnight is even better.

– Set your iPhone down screen-side-down on a soft, flat spot to keep it comfy.

– Slap some tape on the back glass to keep that shiny finish safe and sound.

– Lay down a single row of coins or any objects about the same thickness on the tape around the edges of the back glass.

– Make sure the coins are spread out evenly and are at least as tall as the camera bump to keep things level.

– Stack a few thick books or heavy objects on top of your iPhone to gently press it back into shape. Keep them in place for at least thirty minutes—if the objects are lighter, leave them longer. For best results, leave it stacked overnight and let gravity do its thing. If you need a hand or want to make sure everything’s done just right, you can always schedule a repair.

– Once you’ve wrapped up your repair, don’t forget to give that shiny new loudspeaker a little love! Fire up Apple’s Repair Assistant and navigate to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History. Hit Restart & Finish Repair and follow the friendly prompts on your screen.

– Got some old tech that needs a new home? Take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and do your part for the planet!

– Did things not go as smoothly as planned? No worries! Check out some basic troubleshooting tips, or swing by our iPhone 16e Answers Community for a helping hand.

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– Disconnect all cables from your phone before getting started.

– Press and hold the power button along with either volume button, then slide to turn off your phone.

– If your screen or back glass is pretty cracked, lay down some overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass. It keeps shards in place, keeps you safe, and makes the disassembly a whole lot easier. When you’re ready to move on, if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a P2 pentalobe screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 7.8mm-long screws on each side of the charging port. It’s a quick task—just make sure those screws are set aside safely!

– Grab your opening pick and measure 3mm from the tip. Mark that spot with a permanent marker so you know exactly where to go next.

– Place a heated iOpener on the bottom edge of the back glass and let it work its magic for 90 seconds.

– Stick a suction handle onto the lower part of the back glass.

– Give that handle a confident pull—steady is the game—until you see a gap form between the glass and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you made.

– A fragile cable links the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume up button—handle it gently! Around the edges of the phone, you’ll find a bunch of spring contacts that keep things connected. Take your time and keep track of where everything goes. If you run into trouble, remember you can always schedule a repair for extra help.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the back glass to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick near the bottom left corner to start. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Heat up an iOpener and gently place it on the left edge of the back glass. Let it sit for about 90 seconds, just enough time to give it a little warmth and soften things up. Patience is key!

– Gently rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner, then glide it along the left edge to loosen the adhesive and pop the metal clips free. Keep the pick near the top left corner for easy access. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Heat things up! Grab your trusty iOpener and give the top edge of that back glass a warm hug for 90 seconds. It’s like a spa day, but for your phone!

– Take your opening pick and gently rotate it around the top left corner, then slide it along the top edge. This will help you separate the adhesive and pop out the metal clips, easy does it!

– Keep that pick tucked in the top right corner for now – it’ll be your trusty companion for the next step!

– Warm up the right edge of the back glass with a heated iOpener for about 90 seconds.

– Gently rotate the opening pick around the top right corner, then slide it along the right edge to loosen the remaining adhesive and lift out the metal clip. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with us.

– Carefully swing open the back glass to the right side of the phone and prop it up securely against a clean, sturdy surface.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 1.3mm-long screws holding down the lower connector cover. Easy, right?

– Grab your tweezers (or just use your fingers, no judgment) and gently lift up the lower connector cover. Slide it toward the top of the phone—like you’re giving it a little vacation—to pop it off that metal clip.

– Take off the lower connector cover and set it aside. One less thing in your way!

– Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to lift up and unplug the battery press connector. Easy does it!