Month: August 2025

– Stick a suction handle on the lower edge of the back cover—get it nice and close to the edge.

– Give the suction handle a gentle pull to crack open a tiny gap between the back cover and the frame. It’s like opening a stubborn pickle jar, but cooler.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap you just made. Smooth moves.

– Work the pick over to the bottom left corner to slice through the sticky adhesive—think of it as cutting through digital glue.

– Keep the pick chilling right there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Slide another pick in at the phone’s bottom edge—think of it as giving your phone a gentle high-five.

– Swipe that pick down to the bottom-right corner to sweet-talk the glue into letting go.

– Let the picks chill there for a sec so the adhesive doesn’t try to sneak back together.

– Pop a third opening pick into the bottom right corner of your phone—like you’re dealing cards, but for repairs.

– Glide that pick up the right edge to slice through the sticky adhesive. Smooth moves only.

– Leave the pick chilling in the top right corner, so the adhesive doesn’t get any bright ideas about resealing.

– Pop a fourth pick under the top right corner of your phone—like you’re sneaking it into a card game.

– Glide that pick along the top edge to slice through the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Leave your pick chilling in the top left corner so the adhesive doesn’t get any ideas about sticking again.

– Slip in a fifth opening pick just beneath the top left corner to get things started.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of the back cover to cut through the remaining adhesive, making your way around the perimeter.

– Pop off the back cover—nice and easy.

– When you’re putting things back together:

– Take a moment to power up your phone and make sure everything’s working before you lock it down. Don’t forget to shut it off again before the next step.

– Clear out any leftover sticky bits with tweezers or your fingers.

– Grab some isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) and wipe away any stubborn adhesive.

– Got custom-cut adhesives? Check out Salvation Repair’s guide for the lowdown.

– Rocking double-sided tape? Salvation Repair’s guide has your back.

– Slide an opening pick under the left bottom corner of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. Be gentle, and don’t worry, you’ve got this!

– Carefully glide the opening pick along the bottom left edge of the assembly to separate it from the battery. It’s like peeling a banana—easy does it!

– Start by sliding an opening pick under the lower end of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. You’re on your way!

– Now, gently glide that pick along the bottom of the assembly to gently pry it away from the loudspeaker. You’re doing great!

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the charging coil connector up from its socket. It’s like unplugging a tiny friend—just give it a careful lift!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the NFC antenna connector straight up out of its socket. Easy does it!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the five screws (they’re 3.9 mm long) holding the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly in place.

– Gently grab the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly using tweezers or your fingers, and lift it out like you’re picking the last cookie from the jar.

– Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and let it chill on the back cover for a solid three minutes. That adhesive doesn’t stand a chance!

– Grab a suction handle and stick it to the bottom edge of the back cover, right up against the edge for the best grip.

– Gently pull on the suction handle to lift the back cover just enough to create a tiny gap between it and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made.

– Carefully glide the opening pick down to the bottom left corner to cut through the adhesive.

– Keep that opening pick in place to stop the adhesive from sealing back up.

– Grab a second opening pick and slide it into the bottom edge of your phone.

– Wiggle that opening pick over to the bottom right corner for a smooth adhesive slice!

– Keep those opening picks in place so the adhesive doesn’t get all clingy again!

– Pop in a third opening pick at the bottom right corner of your phone.

– Gently slide that pick along the right edge to cut through the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the opening pick in the top right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t seal back up on you.

– Pop a fourth opening pick under the top right corner of your phone—like you’re playing a game of pick-up sticks with tech.

– Slide that pick gently along the top edge to cut through the sticky adhesive jungle.

– Let the pick chill in the top left corner. That’s your safeguard against the glue trying to make a comeback.

– Slide the fifth pick under the top-left corner—think of it as scooting into the last seat at the lunch table.

– Glide that pick down the left edge like you’re slicing birthday cake, cutting through any clingy adhesive that’s still hanging on.

– Start by removing the back cover. When you’re ready to put everything back together, take a moment to power on your device and check all functions—it’s easier to catch any issues now than after sealing it up. Make sure to shut it down completely before moving forward. Use tweezers or your fingers to gently clear away any leftover adhesive chunks. Then, grab some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol and wipe away any remaining adhesive residue—this will help ensure a clean surface for reassembly. If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. Prefer double-sided tape? No problem—just follow this guide for the best results.

– Slide an opening pick gently under the lower left corner of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.

– Carefully glide the pick along the bottom left edge to detach it from the battery.

– Slide a pick gently under the bottom edge of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. Then, carefully guide it along the bottom to loosen and separate the assembly from the loudspeaker. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the charging coil connector straight up out of its socket. Easy does it, like opening a stubborn pickle jar but with way less mess!

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the NFC antenna connector straight up from its socket—like you’re unplugging a tiny headphone jack.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work! Remove those five 3.9 mm-long screws that are holding the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly in place. You’ve got this!

– Time to get a little delicate! Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully pluck out the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. Take your time and be gentle, we don’t want any accidents!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it in to disconnect the battery cable. Just pry that connector straight up from its cozy little socket, and you’ll be on your way!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to unleash your skills! Carefully remove the four screws, each measuring 3.9 mm, that are holding the loudspeaker assembly in place. You’ve got this!

– Slide a spudger into the little gap between the top edge of the loudspeaker assembly and the midframe. It’s like giving it a gentle nudge!

– With your trusty spudger, carefully lift the loudspeaker assembly by tilting it downwards. You’re doing great!

– Power up your device for a quick test drive before sealing things up—better safe than sticky!

– Compare your new part with the old one. You might need to peel off some adhesive backings or move a few bits and pieces over.

– Ready to reassemble? Just reverse these steps and you’re golden.

– Want to make sure everything’s working? Check out our repair testing guide for a victory lap.

– Done with old parts? Drop your e-waste off at a certified recycler—Mother Earth will thank you.

– If things went sideways, try some basic troubleshooting or get advice from our Answers community.

– Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair for backup.

– Grab your trusty iOpener, warm it up, and let it chill on the back cover for a solid three minutes. This gives the sticky stuff underneath a chance to loosen up and make your next moves way easier.

– Stick a suction cup near the bottom edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible. Gently pull on the suction cup to lift the back cover slightly away from the frame, creating a small gap. Carefully insert an opening pick into that gap. Glide the pick down to the bottom left corner to slice through the adhesive. Leave the pick in place to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop a second opening pick down at the bottom edge of your phone.

– Glide that pick over to the bottom right corner and slice through the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Keep those picks in place so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and ruin your progress.

– Start by inserting a third opening pick at the bottom right corner of your phone to get things started.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the right edge of your device to carefully cut through the adhesive holding it together.

– Keep the opening pick in place at the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from sticking back together as you work.

– Pop in a fourth opening pick right underneath that top right corner of your phone.

– Gently glide the pick along the top edge to neatly slice through the adhesive like butter.

– Keep that opening pick snug in the top left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t want to rejoin the party.

– Grab a fifth opening pick and slide it right under the top left corner like you’re sneaking a snack!

– Now, gently glide that pick along the left edge of the back cover to slice through the last bits of adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get started by removing the back cover. Easy does it!

– When you’re putting everything back together, remember to power on your device and test all its functions before sealing it up. Don’t forget to power it back down before moving on.

– Now’s a great time to get rid of any adhesive chunks that might be stuck on there. Just use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to gently remove them.

– Next, grab some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (we’re talking over 90% here) and use it to wipe away any remaining adhesive residue.

– If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, be sure to follow the guide for applying them correctly.

– And if you’re using double-sided tape, don’t worry – we’ve got a guide for that too.

– Slip an opening pick under the lower left corner of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly—just like sliding a spatula under a stubborn pancake.

– Gently glide the pick along the bottom left edge to loosen the assembly from the battery. Slow and steady wins the race—no need to rush!

– Slide an opening pick under the bottom edge of the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. You’re doing great!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom of the assembly to detach it from the loudspeaker. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the charging coil out by lifting the connector straight up from its cozy socket. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work your magic to disconnect the NFC antenna. Just pry that connector straight up from its cozy socket, and you’ll be all set!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to rock! It’s time to unscrew those five 3.9 mm-long screws that are holding the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift out the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. You’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger and gently pry the battery connector straight up from its socket to disconnect it. Take your time—patience is key here. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those four 3.9 mm-long screws that are holding the loudspeaker assembly in place. Let’s do this!

– Slip a spudger into the space between the top of the loudspeaker assembly and the midframe.

– Now, gently work your spudger under the loudspeaker assembly and nudge it upwards by tilting it downward.

– Take out the loudspeaker assembly.

– When you’re putting things back together, slap on some fresh adhesive after cleaning the spots with isopropyl alcohol (over 90%).

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it in to disconnect that display flex cable! Just pry the connector straight up from its socket and voilà, you’re one step closer to victory!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the main and interconnect flex cables off the motherboard by lifting their connectors straight up from the sockets.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the interconnect flex cable off the daughterboard by prying its bottom connector straight up from its cozy socket.

– Now, using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, delicately lift away the interconnect flex cable. You’ve got this!

– If you can, power up your device and give your repair a quick test before sealing everything up with new adhesive.

– Make sure to compare your replacement part with the original—don’t forget to transfer any leftover components or peel off those pesky adhesive backings before you dive into the installation.

– Reassembling your device? Just retrace your steps from the instructions in reverse order.

– Once your repair is complete, follow this guide to ensure everything is functioning smoothly.

– Got some e-waste? Don’t just toss it—take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Things not going as smoothly as you hoped? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or feel free to reach out to our Answers community for a helping hand.

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– Grab those tweezers or use your fingers to lift off any big chunks of sticky leftovers from the frame.

– Drop a few dabs of super strong isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) onto the stubborn adhesive bits.

– Scrape away every last bit of glue with the flat end of your spudger—be thorough, your device deserves it!

– Get a few drops of super-strong isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) on any leftover adhesive stuck to the frame, then swipe it away with a microfiber or lint-free cloth. Your frame will thank you!

– Cut strips of sturdy double-sided tape to the right length so they fit snugly on the exposed metal frame in the battery cavity.

– Stick a strip of tape onto the frame—nice and straight.

– Grab your spudger and press down along the whole strip to lock it in place. Really give it a good press!

– Take your tweezers and peel off the liner from the tape strip. Easy does it.

– Keep the momentum going by repeating the last step to stick down those remaining strips of tape. Once you’ve got them all in place, you’re almost done! If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– To keep your device running smoothly, don’t forget to calibrate that shiny new battery after your repair is all wrapped up!

– Got some old tech? Give it a second life by taking it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, no worries! A little bit of basic troubleshooting might do the trick, or feel free to reach out to our Answers community for a helping hand.

– IC Identification Pt. 1:

– Let’s take a peek inside! First up: the Qualcomm SM8450 Snapdragon 8 Gen 1 Octa-Core Processor, tucked neatly beneath a Samsung K3LK7K70BM-BGCP 8 GB LPDDR5 RAM—these two are the brain and memory of your device.

– Next, the Samsung KLUDG4UHDC-B0E1 128 GB NAND Flash (UFS 3.1) stores all your stuff—photos, apps, memes, you name it.

– Spot the Wacom WEZ02 Digitizer Controller—this little guy makes your touchscreen super responsive.

– Maxim MAX77705C Power Management keeps everything juiced up and running smooth.

– Renesas P9320S Wireless Power Transceiver means no more cable chaos for charging.

– NXP Semiconductor PCA9468 Battery Charger handles the battery, making sure it’s powered up and ready for action.

– Cirrus Logic CS35L40 Audio Amplifier blasts your tunes loud and clear.

– Alright, tech wizards! Let’s dive into the heart of this device and identify those crucial components. Here’s what we need to keep an eye on:

– 1. Cirrus Logic CS40L26 Haptic Driver – It’s all about that delightful feedback!

– 2. Qualcomm PMR735A Power Management – Keeping the energy flowing smoothly.

– 3. Qualcomm PM3003 Power Management – Another powerhouse for optimal performance.

– 4. Diodes Incorporated AP7340D-30FS4-7 150 mA / 3.0 V LDO Regulator – Regulating power like a champ.

– 5. Diodes Incorporated AP7340D-33FS4-7 150 mA / 3.3 V LDO Regulator – Because consistency is key!

– 6. Knowles MEMS Microphone – Ensuring your voice is heard loud and clear.

– 7. Qualcomm PMK8450 ? Clock Generator – Keeping everything in sync and on time.

– Now that we’ve got our list, let’s tackle this repair with confidence! Remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s take a look at some key chips you’ll encounter: the Qualcomm SDR735 RF Transceiver, the Qualcomm SMR546 RF Transceiver, the NXP Semiconductor SN220U NFC Controller with Secure Element, the NXP SR100T Ultra-Wideband SoC, the BGU8103 GPS/GLONASS/Galileo/BeiDou Low Noise Amplifier from NXP, and the Qualcomm QET5100 Envelope Tracker. These components are like the phone’s secret agents—knowing their names and roles helps keep the repair on track. If things get tricky or you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– IC Identification pt. 4 (sensors):

– Meet your Austria Microelectronics sensor: it’s the ultimate multitasker, handling light, color, gestures, and proximity like a champ.

– Say hello to the STMicroelectronics 6-axis accelerometer and gyroscope—this little chip keeps track of every twist and turn your device makes.

– Step into the world of power management with IC Identification pt. 1!

– First up, we’ve got the Qualcomm PM8350 Power Management – it’s got your back!

– Next in line is the Qualcomm PM8350C Power Management, ready to keep the juice flowing!

– Then, we meet the Qualcomm PM8450 Power Management, another reliable partner in this journey.

– Check out the Samsung S2MPB02 Power Management, working hard behind the scenes!

– Don’t forget about the Samsung S2MPBA3 Power Management – it’s always up for the challenge!

– Get ready for crystal-clear audio with the Cirrus Logic CS35L40 Audio Amplifier!

– Last but not least, we can’t overlook the Goertek MEMS Microphone – it’s time to make your voice heard!

– Step up your component detective skills:

– Time to spot the Vishay DG2730—it’s a 2-Port DPDT Analog Switch, not just an alphabet soup!

– Alright, let’s get into the chip game! First up, identify that IC with some confidence—know your chips, know your stuff. We’re talking about the Broadcom BCM4389 for Wi-Fi 6E & Bluetooth 5.0, the Broadcom AFEM-9146 front-end module, Skyworks SKY58083-11 front-end module, Qualcomm QPM6815 front-end module, and the Qualcomm QDM3572 antenna switch. Don’t forget the Qorvo 2389 and 5389 RF power amplifiers—they’re probably lurking nearby. When you’re ready, carefully locate and test each component, making sure you’re familiar with their placements. If you hit a snag or want a pro to handle the tricky bits, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for some expert assistance.

– IC Identification pt. 4 (Sensors):

– Introducing the AKM Semiconductor 3-Axis Electronic Compass – your device’s navigator extraordinaire!

– And don’t forget the STMicroelectronics Pressure Sensor, keeping things balanced and accurate.