Month: August 2025

– First things first, let’s disconnect any cables from your phone. Give it some breathing room!

– Now, press and hold the side button along with the volume down button, then tap ‘Power off’ to gracefully shut down your phone.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it hang out on the right edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes—just long enough to get that adhesive nice and loose.

– Stick the suction handle smack dab near the middle of the right edge on the back cover.

– Give that handle a hearty pull—steady does it—until you spot a gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap and get ready for the next move.

– Now it’s time to get this adhesive to let go! Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to loosen its grip.

– Great job! Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to keep the adhesive from resealing – you’re making progress!

– Let’s get this repair started! Apply some heat to the bottom edge of the back cover using a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Place a second pick at the bottom right corner to get started. Then, gently rotate the pick around that corner to loosen the adhesive—think of it as a dance move for your device. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide the opening pick into the bottom left corner to loosen the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep that pick in the corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up as you work.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Get it nice and toasty—your phone’s about to get spa treatment!

– Spin that opening pick around the bottom left corner to break free the adhesive like a champ!

– Start by slipping a third pick into the bottom left corner to get things moving.

– Gently slide your pick up toward the top left corner to loosen the adhesive grip.

– Keep that pick in the top left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together as you work.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes.

– Slide a fourth pick into the top left corner—think of it as adding another player to your opening team.

– Give it a gentle spin around the corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Glide your pick up to the top-right corner like it’s sliding into DMs—just enough to break that clingy adhesive bond.

– Park that pick in the corner like a loyal bouncer, keeping the sticky stuff from sneaking back together.

– Line up the tip of your opening pick with the flash cutout to get started.

– Gently slide the pick under the top edge of the back cover, feeling for that satisfying snag on the adhesive.

– Keep sliding the pick downward toward the bottom of the phone until you sense the adhesive letting go and the back cover free itself.

– Pop off the back cover—think of it like opening a stubborn cookie jar. No crumbs, just tech.

– On your way back to glory:

– Now’s a great time to fire up the phone and make sure everything works, before you close things up. Just remember to turn it off again before moving on.

– Got leftover adhesive stuck on there? Grab some tweezers or use your fingers. If it’s being clingy, hit it with a little heat and some isopropyl alcohol (90%+).

– Rolling with custom-cut adhesives? Cruise over to this guide.

– Using double-sided tape instead? This guide here is your jam.

– Take your spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector from the motherboard. It’s like a tiny lever—just a little nudge!

– When you’re reconnecting press connectors, line them up carefully and push down on one edge until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other edge. Skip pressing the middle; those pins are delicate and don’t like surprises. If things aren’t lined up right, it can bend the pins and cause trouble.

– Time to get this NFC antenna press connector disconnected! Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry it up and release it from its connection.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and get ready to loosen up those screws! First, remove the six screws holding down the wireless charging coil—these are 3.5mm long. Then, locate the seven screws anchoring the loudspeaker and take those out too. With a bit of patience, you’ll free those components in no time. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Place the point of your spudger into the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

– Gently pry upwards to detach the loudspeaker from the frame.

– Gently lift the loudspeaker away from the frame using your fingers—think of it as a little lift-off party until it’s fully free.

– Take out the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker from the frame, giving them a nice clear space.

– When putting everything back together, press around the edges of the loudspeaker to clip it securely back into the frame—like giving it a gentle hug to keep it in place.

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift and unplug the battery press connector. You’re doing great!

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the earpiece speaker connector—easy does it, no need to get wild.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and zip those five 3.5 mm-long screws out of the earpiece speaker. Let’s keep it smooth and steady!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and the shiny shield on the motherboard.

– Give your spudger a little twist to pop the earpiece speaker free from its cozy frame and lift it out.

– When you’re putting everything back together, remember to drop the top end of the earpiece speaker into the frame first, then give it a good press down to snap it back in place!

– Gently pop up those primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors from the daughterboard using your trusty spudger. Take it slow—these connectors like a gentle touch!

– Do the same dance for both the primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors on the motherboard. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Unplug those interconnect cables and set them aside like a pro.

– Gently wedge the tip of your spudger between the left edge of the antenna press connector and the shiny metal plate on the motherboard. Carefully pry up and disconnect the antenna press connector—think of it as giving it a little nudge to free it from its spot. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the display and 5G mmWave cable connectors from the motherboard. Take it slow and keep things chill—those connectors like a smooth getaway!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the front camera press connector.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those two 3.5 mm-long screws holding down the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Slide the flat end of your spudger between the top of the motherboard and the frame, right by the earpiece speaker spot.

– Give the spudger a gentle twist to pop the motherboard up until you can grab it with your fingers.

– Lift out the motherboard.

– When putting things back together, make sure all the cables are clear before you set the motherboard back in the frame.

– Flip the motherboard like you’re flipping the perfect pancake to reveal the camera connectors hiding on the back.

– Take your trusty spudger and gently pop the ultrawide camera connector loose—think of it as unplugging your earbuds, but for your phone’s eyes.

– The ultrawide camera is cozied up to the motherboard and main camera, held in place by some metal pegs.

– With one hand on the motherboard for support, gently pop the ultrawide camera out of its peg holes and lift it away. Easy does it!

– Take your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main camera press connector—like opening a tiny treasure chest.

– Carefully lift the main camera off the motherboard and set it aside. Mission accomplished!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the telephoto camera press connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the telephoto camera off the motherboard and set it aside. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, remember to reinstall the rear cameras in reverse order so they fit together just right (Telephoto → Main → Ultrawide). You’re doing great!

– All that’s left now is the motherboard. Time to give it some love and get it back in shape. If you need help along the way, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Disconnect any cables from your phone to get started. Then, press and hold the side button along with the volume down button, and tap ‘Power off’ when it pops up. Easy does it—your device’s powered down and ready for the next step.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– First, attach a suction handle to the back cover, positioning it as close to the center of the right edge as you can – this will be your trusty sidekick for prying it open.

– Next, pull up on the suction handle with a firm, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame. Don’t worry, it’s designed to come apart!

– Now, take an opening pick and insert it into the gap you just created. You’re making great progress!

– Gently slide the prying pick along the right edge to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up.

– Warm up the bottom edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep the heat steady and gentle to make the adhesive more pliable.

– Slip another pick into the bottom right corner—like it’s squeezing onto a dance floor.

– Spin that pick around the corner to break up the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Slide your trusty opening pick down to the bottom left corner and let it work its magic on the adhesive.

– Keep the pick chillin’ in the corner so that sticky stuff doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover by applying a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep it there until the adhesive softens and the cover loosens up a bit.

– Now it’s time to get this device opened up. Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to gently pry the adhesive loose and start separating the parts. Take your time and be patient, it’s a delicate process.

– Time to get this repair started! Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner to help loosen things up.

– Now, gently slide your pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive – you’re making great progress!

– Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing, and get ready for the next step in this step-by-step repair guide from Salvation Repair.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the back cover for a cozy two minutes.

– Slide a fourth opening pick into the top left corner.

– Twist it gently around that corner to break free the adhesive.

– Glide your opening pick up to the top right corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick hanging out in the top right—this stops the glue from sneaking back together.

– Align the tip of your opening pick with the flash cutout area.

– Carefully slide the pick underneath the top edge of the back cover, feeling it start to catch on the adhesive.

– Continue sliding the pick downward toward the bottom of the phone until the adhesive releases completely from the back cover.

– Use the spudger tip to carefully lift and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.

– When reattaching press connectors, make sure to align one side first and gently press it down until you hear a click. Then, repeat the process on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle, as misalignment can bend the pins and cause lasting damage.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the NFC antenna connector—think of it like giving your phone a little nudge to wake it up.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and get ready to loosen things up. First, remove the thirteen 3.5 mm screws that hold down the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker. There are six screws securing the wireless charging coil, and seven securing the loudspeaker. Take your time and keep track of all the screws—you’ll need them later. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide your spudger into the notch at the top left of the loudspeaker—like you’re sneaking in for a secret mission.

– Gently pop the loudspeaker up and free it from the frame. It should unclip with a satisfying little snap!

– Gently pry the loudspeaker away from the frame with your fingers, giving it a little nudge to help separate them completely.

– Next up, let’s take out the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame, making it nice and clear.

– When you’re putting it all back together, remember to give a little press around the edges of the loudspeaker to snap it back into place.

– Gently wiggle the tip of your spudger under the battery press connector and pop it free like a pro!

– Gently pop up the earpiece speaker connector with the tip of your spudger—think of it like opening a stubborn bag of chips, but with a lot more precision.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and twist out the five screws (they’re each 3.5 mm long) holding the earpiece speaker in place. Easy does it!

– Slide the flat tip of your spudger under the lower edge of the earpiece speaker, right where it meets that tiny shield on the board—think of it as a gentle nudge.

– Give the spudger a slight twist to pop the speaker free; it’ll come off like a sticker from a fresh notebook.

– When you’re putting it back together, tuck the top of the speaker in first, then press the rest down until it clicks—easy peasy.

– Take your spudger and slide its flat end between the right edge of the front camera’s connector and the motherboard. Nice and gentle—no need to rush.

– Pop up that antenna connector with a little prying action. It’ll come loose with a bit of encouragement.

– Time to get cozy with that front camera! Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to give it some love for 90 seconds.

– Check out your shiny new part next to the old one—make sure any leftover bits and sticky stuff are moved over before putting it in.

– Pop everything back together by flipping through the steps backwards.

– Give your old tech a second life with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If your device is being a drama queen, try a few quick troubleshooting moves, or swing by Salvation Repair’s Answers Community for some pro tips.

– Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

– Disconnect all cables from your phone to keep things safe and tidy.

– Press and hold the side button along with the volume down button, then tap ‘Power off’ to shut down your device smoothly.

– Grab a suction handle and stick it to the back cover, aiming to place it as near to the center of the right edge as you can.

– With determination, pull up on that suction handle with a strong, steady force. This will help open up a little space between the cover and the frame.

– Now, slide an opening pick into that gap you’ve just created.

– Gently wiggle the pick along the right edge to loosen the adhesive’s grip. Keep it moving back and forth like you’re giving it a little dance. When you get near the bottom right corner, leave the pick there—this keeps the adhesive from sealing itself back up. If you’re ever in doubt or need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Give the bottom edge of the back cover a nice warm-up with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Pop in a second pick at the bottom right corner – it’s like giving your device a little buddy!

– Twist that opening pick around the bottom right corner to gently loosen up the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Glide the opening pick down to the bottom left corner to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Leave the pick hanging out in the bottom left—it’s your trusty sidekick, keeping the adhesive from sneaking back together.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Easy does it—let the heat do the hard work so the glue loosens up nicely.

– Swing the opening pick around the bottom left corner to loosen up that sticky adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Pop in a third opening pick right at the bottom left corner.

– Gently slide your pick up towards the top left corner to break that adhesive seal.

– Keep that pick in place at the top left corner so the adhesive doesn’t decide to stick back together!

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of the back cover for about two minutes.

– Place a fourth opening pick at the top left corner to get things started.

– Gently rotate it around that corner to loosen and separate the adhesive layers.

– Now it’s time to get this repair started! Carefully slide your opening pick to the top right corner to loosen the adhesive and begin the separation process.

– Great job so far! Leave the pick in the top right corner to keep the adhesive from resealing, making the rest of the repair a whole lot easier.

– Get your opening pick lined up with the flash cutout—think of it as your backstage pass.

– Gently slide the pick under the top edge of the back cover until you feel the adhesive putting up a bit of a fight.

– Keep sliding the pick down toward the bottom of the phone, and you’ll feel that sticky adhesive finally let go.

– Gently pop up the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard using the pointy end of your spudger—think of it like opening a stubborn pickle jar, but smaller.

– When snapping press connectors back in, line them up so they’re sitting pretty, then press one edge until you hear a click. Do the same for the other side. Skip pressing the middle—misaligned pins are a one-way ticket to trouble town!

– Grab that spudger’s tip and gently pry up the NFC antenna press connector to disconnect it. Easy does it—just a little lift to free it up.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the thirteen 3.5 mm long screws that hold down the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker. First, remove the six screws securing the wireless charging coil, then the seven screws holding the loudspeaker. Take your time and keep track of your screws—if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger into the little notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

– Give it a little pry to pop the loudspeaker free from the frame.

– Gently pop the loudspeaker out of the frame with your fingers—think of it as giving your phone a little nudge to set it free.

– Lift out both the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame like you’re picking winners at a raffle.

– When putting things back together, press all around the edge of the loudspeaker to snap it securely back into place. Easy does it!

– Grab your spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the battery press connector. Easy does it—think of it as giving your device a friendly high-five to get things started. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the five screws (they’re 3.5 mm long) that are holding the earpiece speaker in place.

– You made it! Compare your new replacement part to the original part to ensure everything is in order. Don’t forget to transfer any remaining components and remove those adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

– To put everything back together, just follow these steps in reverse. Easy peasy!

– Now that you’re done, be sure to responsibly recycle your e-waste with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t worry! Try some basic troubleshooting or visit our Samsung Galaxy S23+ Answers for some helpful tips. And if you’re still stuck, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

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– First things first, let’s disconnect any cables from your phone. Give those cords a break!

– Now, press and hold the side key along with the volume down button until you see the option to ‘Power off.’ Go ahead and select that to turn off your phone. You’re doing great!

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This helps loosen up the sticky stuff underneath.

– Place the suction handle near the center of the right edge of the back cover. Make sure it’s positioned right, like you’re about to pull a secret door open.

– Now, gently but firmly pull on the suction handle, creating a nice gap between the cover and the frame. You got this!

– Slip an opening pick into the gap, like you’re about to crack open a treasure chest.

– Gently slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to start loosening that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick in place near the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. You got this!

– Warm up the adhesive at the bottom edge by letting a heated iOpener chill there for two minutes—just enough time to loosen things up without breaking a sweat.

– Slide pick numero-dos into the bottom-right corner like you’re sneaking it into a party.

– Give that pick a smooth spin around the corner—think lazy Susan—to pop the glue loose.

– Glide the opening pick down to the bottom left corner to break up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick parked in the bottom left corner—this stops the adhesive from sticking itself back together.

– Grab your iOpener, give it a warm-up, and hug the left edge of the back cover for a cozy two-minute spa treatment.

– Swing that opening pick around the bottom left corner and send that adhesive packing.

– Start by inserting a third pick at the bottom left corner of the device.

– Gently slide your pick upward toward the top left corner to loosen the adhesive hold.

– Keep the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing as you work.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the top edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive so you can lift the cover more easily.

– Slide a fourth opening pick into the top left corner to get things started.

– Twist it gently around that corner to loosen the adhesive and make separation easier.

– Gently slide your opening pick into the top right corner to break that adhesive seal like a pro.

– Keep the pick in that corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Line up the tip of your opening pick with the flash cutout—think of it as aiming for the sweet spot.

– Gently slide the pick underneath the top edge of the back cover until you feel it catch on the adhesive—that’s your cue to keep going.

– Keep working your way down toward the bottom of the phone, gradually separating the adhesive from the back cover. Stay patient and steady!

– Pop off the back cover like you’re opening a treasure chest.

– When you’re putting everything back together:

– Now’s a great time to fire up your phone and make sure all the bells and whistles are working before sealing things up. Don’t forget to shut it down again before you keep going.

– Sticky leftovers? Tackle those with tweezers or your fingers. If they’re being stubborn, a bit of heat and some isopropyl alcohol (90% or stronger) will do the trick.

– If you’ve got custom-cut adhesives, check out this guide.

– Going with double-sided tape? This guide has you covered.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector from the motherboard, kind of like flipping a tiny pancake.

– When it’s time to reconnect, line up the press connector and give each side a gentle press until you hear a click—no need to squish the middle like a sandwich. A misaligned connector could bend pins and really mess things up, so take your time.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the NFC antenna press connector to disconnect it. Keep it light but firm—you’re doing great! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the thirteen 3.5 mm-long screws holding down the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker.

– You’ll find six screws keeping the wireless charging coil in place.

– And seven screws are holding the loudspeaker. Time to set those free!

– Time to get this loudspeaker out! Insert the point of your trusty spudger into the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

– Gently pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame. Easy does it!

– Gently lift the loudspeaker away from the frame using your fingers until it’s fully free.

– Take out the wireless charging coil along with the loudspeaker from the frame.

– When putting everything back together, press gently around the edges of the loudspeaker to snap it back into place on the frame.

– Grab your spudger and gently wedge the tip under the battery press connector. Pry up and disconnect it to free the battery from its hold. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up those primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors from the daughterboard. Take it slow and keep it smooth!

– Do the same unplugging magic for both the primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors on the motherboard.

– Unplug those interconnect cables and set them aside—you’re making progress!

– Time to play connector-Tetris! Slide your spudger under the display and 5G mmWave ribbon cable connectors and pop them off the motherboard—gently does it.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the display cable press connector up from the bottom edge of your phone. It’s like giving it a little high-five to say, ‘Hey, time to disconnect!’

– Once you’ve got that cable free, go ahead and remove it. You’re doing great!

– Slide your finger in like a polite bouncer and gently scoot the battery and antenna cables out of the battery’s personal space.

– Grab the battery pull tab on the left side of the battery and gently peel it away. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift those two little tabs hanging out at the top and bottom corners on the left side of the battery. Easy does it!

– Use one hand to flip back the top and bottom tabs out of the way of the battery, then give the frame a firm press to keep it steady. With your other hand, grab the blue pull tab and pull straight up with steady, confident force to break the battery’s adhesive grip. Finally, gently lay the battery over the right edge of your phone. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently peel off the battery’s plastic film from the frame—think of it like unwrapping a tiny present.

– Lift out the battery along with its film. You got this!

– If you used isopropyl alcohol, give it about ten minutes to fully vanish before popping in the new battery. Patience pays off!

– First things first, let’s disconnect any cables from your phone. Give it some breathing room!

– Now, press and hold the side button along with the volume down button, then tap ‘Power off’ to gracefully shut down your phone.

– Warm up your iOpener, then park it on the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes—just long enough for the adhesive to loosen up and wave the white flag.

– Stick the suction cup on the back cover, right in the middle of the right-hand edge—the sweet spot.

– Give the handle a confident, steady tug to pop open a little gap. You’re looking for a gap just big enough to wiggle in a pick.

– Slide your plastic pick into the gap like you’re tucking a bookmark between pages.

– Gently slide the opening tool or pick along the right side to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick tucked near the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s get this repair started! Apply some heat to the bottom edge of the back cover using a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the next steps a breeze.

– Slip a second pick into the bottom right corner—like you’re sliding into DMs, but for your device.

– Gently twist the pick around that corner to loosen up the adhesive. Smooth moves, you’re almost there!

– Gently slide the opening pick into the bottom left corner to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick in place there to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Get that glue nice and soft!

– Swing that opening pick around the bottom left corner to break up the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Pop in a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

– Gently slide your pick up towards the top left corner to break that adhesive seal.

– Keep that pick in place at the top left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and let it chill on the top edge of the back cover for about two minutes.

– Grab a fourth pick and slide it into the top left corner.

– Swing that pick around the corner to loosen up the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Gently slide your opening pick into the top right corner to break that adhesive bond like a pro.

– Keep that pick in place at the top right corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. You’ve got this!

– Position the pointy end of your trusty opening pick right at the flash cutout.

– Gently slide that pick beneath the top edge of the back cover until you can feel it catching on the sticky stuff holding everything together.

– Keep nudging the pick down towards the bottom of the phone until you feel that adhesive give way and the back cover is free to lift off.

– Pop off that back cover like a pro.

– On your way back to reassembly:

– Now’s a great time to turn on your phone and make sure everything works before you lock it all down. Don’t forget to power it off again before you keep going.

– Sticky leftovers? Grab your tweezers or fingers and evict those adhesive bits. If they’re stubborn, a little heat and some isopropyl alcohol (90%+) will do the trick.

– Using custom-cut adhesives? Check out this guide.

– Rolling with double-sided tape? This guide’s for you.