Month: August 2025

– Let’s play spot-the-difference: Series 6 (right) next to the Series 5 (left). Not much to see on the outside, but that’s why we’re cracking it open.

– Features include an LTPO OLED Retina display, built for always-on vibes (Force Touch is out, though).

– Runs on a speedy 64-bit dual-core Apple S6 SiP—fancy name, faster moves.

– Sensor squad is upgraded: tracks your heart rate, ECG, and now blood oxygen, because why not?

– Comes with a built-in compass and a real-time altimeter—so you’ll always know when you’re lost or just climbing stairs.

– Splash away worries with water resistance up to 50 meters. Cannonball, anyone?

– Check out that snug new watchband—underneath it, make sure you’re holding a legit Apple Watch, model A2376, and not just a clever blue lookalike. The Series 6 has a fun twist: it opens from the side like a book, just like some newer iPhones do. Plus, since it no longer sports a Force Touch gasket (bye-bye, watchOS 7!), the process is a tad simpler. As for the other band slot, it’s empty—so we let our imagination run wild with a little tech fantasy, tossing in a mock combination lock—though, realistically, opening it is just the classic move we do every year. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Safety is our jam! Start by disconnecting that battery. The connector is tucked under the battery, but just flip it out with an opening pick—easy does it.

– This 44 mm Watch cell packs 1.17 Wh of power—a bit more than the Series 5, but still not quite as beefy as the 1.3 Wh Galaxy Watch3.

– The smaller 40 mm Series 6 is rocking the same radical metal-pouch design from the Series 5, now with a 1.024 Wh capacity.

– Remove one tiny tri-point screw and a teeny bracket, and that little battery is ready to roll.

– We’re a bit surprised the bigger model didn’t get the new battery design this year. We figured Apple Watches might follow the iPhone’s lead, with Max models getting the upgrade in year two.

– Apple Watches seem to be slowly regaining battery capacity after that big dip between Series 3 and Series 4.

– The Series 6 rocks a brighter display than the Series 5. Even indoors, it’s got some extra glow—perfect for showing off those notifications.

– This model ditches the Force Touch gasket and streamlines things with fewer display connectors. The NFC cable now hops over via a display-side jumper, and there’s just one grounding cable to worry about. Less wrestling with parts, more time for high-fives!

– Other than those tweaks, the Series 5 (left) and Series 6 (right) displays look pretty similar to the naked eye. No need for a magnifying glass.

– Teardown update: Check out this X-ray view of the display! This one’s the smaller 40 mm screen, stripped down for a closer look. Pretty wild, right?

– At first glance, the tri-point-locked Taptic Engine looks familiar, but it’s actually larger than the one in the Series 5. Maybe the slimmer shaker from Series 4 just didn’t cut it?

– With the muscle components out, let’s move on to the brains: the S6 SiP. Even with your trusty toolkit, navigating the maze of cables and hidden screws is a solid challenge.

– But, as usual, patience + tools + a little technique gets you there! Finally, the Watch gives up its last secrets.

– Bonus points: this version is made from 100% recycled rare earth metals and tungsten. Pretty cool, though reusing is always better than recycling.

– Update: Thanks to Creative Electron’s X-ray wizardry, here’s a sweet peek inside the Taptic Engine. Shake and bake!

– More battery plus a beefier Taptic Engine—Apple didn’t mention these upgrades, but looks like they went all out this year.

– Just like most brains, the core of the Series 6 is seriously locked down—hardened resin all around, so poking inside is pretty much out of the question.

– Unless you’ve got access to an X-ray machine! Take a peek at the S6 package’s internals. All those tiny shapes? If you’re curious, the original Apple Watch X-ray teardown has you covered.

– Some familiar ICs are stacked up on the package, and you can spot a Skyworks chip labeled 239-7. The rest are a bit mysterious, and none of them lines up exactly with the U1 chip from last year’s iPhones.

– With the brains removed, you’ll notice the Series 6 frame is tweaked—a narrower adhesive gasket lip, and now the gasket neatly wraps around the band mechanism.

– Thanks to the new case design and the missing Force Touch gasket, this year’s model is just a little slimmer: 10.4 mm thick (last year was 10.74 mm).

– Apple managed to squeeze in more battery and a beefed-up Taptic Engine, all in a slightly smaller package. That’s some clever engineering!

– Hold onto your hats, folks, because we’re diving into some intriguing tech talk:

– Processor and memory (SDRAM/NAND Flash) Package on Package

– Power Management IC

– WiFi / Bluetooth SoC

– Microcontroller

– We’ve got a fused display up top and a fused sensor array below—trying to pry this apart would just give us a pile of shattered bits. So, let’s fire up those Creative Electron X-rays and peek inside without the mess.

– Check it out: the pulse oximeter is back in action, glowing in holiday style and apparently chatting with the cosmos!

– Low blood oxygen (hypoxemia) can hint at things like COVID-19 or other serious health stuff—so if your numbers look off, pay attention.

– The Apple Watch skips out on body temperature tracking (unlike the Oura Ring 2), but both are handy for general wellness info. Just remember, neither is meant to replace the fancy hospital machines.

– We’re not medical pros—so if you want details on how blood oxygen tracking works, head over to CNET, or dig deep at the Respiratory Medicine journal. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Alright, let’s take a look at this sleek Apple watch and see what’s going on inside—no tiny tri-point screws to distract us today. First off, we’re relieved to see the Force Touch gasket has been replaced by something simpler, and only two delicate display cables are holding things together. The display and back plate are sealed with thicker rubbery adhesive, giving the watch extra protection against dust and splashes—though, in our case, it might be more about keeping the good stuff in! Big shoutout to Creative Electron for the stellar X-ray images that make this teardown possible—those guys really know how to shine a light on the details. They keep refining their process, revealing more with each pass, all while hiding some of the magic behind the scenes. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for the trickier steps or final touches.

– First things first, make sure to pop your watch off the charger and power it down. Let’s keep things safe while we dive into repairs!

– Since the space between the screen and the watch body is super slim, you’ll need a sharp blade to get in there. Check out these warnings before you dive in—your hands (and the watch) will thank you.

– Grab an iOpener, or if you’re feeling adventurous, a hair dryer or heat gun will do the trick—just warm up the face of the watch to loosen that stubborn display adhesive.

– Keep the heat source on the watch for at least two minutes. This will give the screen a warm hug, softening the adhesive and making your next move much easier.

– Slide the curved blade’s tip into the skinny crease between the screen and the case—think of it as the tiny doorway to tech freedom. Begin on the short edge opposite the digital crown for the smoothest entry.

– Give the blade a confident straight push—no tap dancing, just a solid downward nudge.

– Once the blade has RSVP’d to the party, gently tilt it to coax the display open just a crack and let the fun begin.

– Slide your trusty opening pick into the gap you just opened—like you’re sneaking into a VIP lounge.

– Glide the pick along the short edge, slicing the adhesive with the smooth confidence of a butter knife on toast.

– Glide the opening pick around the corner and down the long edge opposite the watch crown—you’re slicing through display adhesive like a pro chef tackling a stubborn cheese. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Swing that opening pick around the corner near the crown and slice through the last bit of sticky stuff holding down the short edge of your watch.

– Set the watch on a flat surface and gently slide an opening pick to cut through any stubborn adhesive holding it together.

– Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the opposite edge of the display near the watch crown.

– Twist the opening pick slightly to loosen the display from the watch case, making it easier to lift off.

– Gently lift up the display and guide it over toward the crown like you’re opening a tiny, high-tech book.

– Flip the display up so it stands at attention—think of it as saluting your repair skills.

– Grab an iOpener (or if you’re feeling adventurous, a hair dryer or heat gun) and gently warm up the back of the watch to soften that stubborn battery glue. Let the heat hang out there for at least two minutes.

– For a 40 mm watch battery replacement, just follow along with this step.

– If you’re swapping out the battery on a 44 mm watch, keep it going with this step.

– Gently wiggle an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the Taptic Engine – it’s like coaxing a stubborn sticker off a surface!

– Now, use some steady pressure to carefully pry the battery away from the adhesive holding it to the mainboard. Take your time, and it’ll come loose in no time!

– Gently lift and swing the battery out of its slot, like you’re giving it a friendly nudge to say goodbye. Take your time—patience makes the job smoother. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the battery connector. It’s like giving your device a little high-five before you get down to business.

– Take the battery out—give it a gentle lift and set it aside for now.

– Gently lift the battery out of its nook and set it aside, opposite the Taptic Engine. Keep it careful but confident—you’re on your way to fixing this device. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take off that single 1.2 mm-long tri point Y000 screw with a smile! It’s your first step to making things better.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift off the metal shield that’s keeping the battery connector cozy. You’ve got this!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the battery connector. Keep things steady and patient—no rush. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take out the battery and give your device a quick breather.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off that black protective tape from both display connectors. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger (pointy end up!) and gently lift the locking bars on both ZIF connectors to free those display cables.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the edges of the sticker that holds the display and grounding cable to the back of the screen. Take your time—peel carefully to avoid any damage.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle both display cables out of their ZIF connectors—like you’re unplugging a tiny disco party.

– Gently separate the watch assembly from the screen. Take your time, no rush—this part is important, so handle it with care.

– First things first, give your watch a little break from the charger and turn it off before diving into repairs.

– Since the space between the screen and the watch body is super tight, you’ll want to grab a sharp blade to help you out. Make sure to read the following warnings carefully before diving in!

– Get your iOpener ready (or grab a hair dryer or heat gun) to warm up the face of your watch and loosen that stubborn display adhesive.

– Place the iOpener on the watch for at least two minutes to ensure the screen gets nice and toasty, making it easier to peel away from the case.

– Grab a curved blade and gently slide its edge into the narrow space between the display and the outer shell. Start from the short side opposite the digital crown, where the gap is smallest.

– Apply steady pressure straight down into that gap to get the blade in place.

– Once it’s seated, tilt the blade slightly to carefully pry the display open a bit more.

– Slip an opening pick into the gap you made earlier—like a pro sliding into DMs.

– Glide the pick smoothly along the short edge of the watch to slice through that stubborn adhesive.

– Take your opening pick for a spin—glide it around the corner and along the long edge, right across from the watch crown, slicing through that stubborn display adhesive as you go.

– Gently slide your opening pick along the edge to slice through the last bit of adhesive on the short side of the watch, right next to the crown. Keep it steady and patient—you’re almost there! If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the display and guide it toward the watch crown like you’re opening a tiny treasure chest.

– Flip the display upward—think of it as giving your watch a cool high-top haircut.

– Grab your iOpener, or go wild with a hair dryer or heat gun, and gently warm up the back of the watch. This helps loosen that stubborn battery glue. Let the heat do its thing for at least two minutes before moving on.

– Rocking a 40 mm watch? Time to jump into this step.

– Sporting a 44 mm watch? This is your moment—carry on to this step.

– Slide an opening pick gently between the battery and the Taptic Engine. We’re about to break free!

– With a firm and steady hand, coax that battery up slowly, peeling it away from the adhesive that’s trying to hold on tight. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the battery and swing it out of its spot like you’re picking up a slice of pizza—smooth and easy.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger, slide it under the battery connector, and gently pop it loose. Easy does it—no need for superhero strength here!

– Gently slide an opening pick in the gap between the battery and the Taptic Engine. Apply steady, even pressure to carefully lift the battery away, working to loosen the adhesive holding it to the mainboard. If you find yourself stuck or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the battery out of its spot and set it aside, opposite the Taptic Engine—like you’re giving it a little vacation from the watch case.

– Unscrew that little 1.2 mm-long tri point Y000 screw and let’s get this party started!

– Time to get a little handy! Use a trusty pair of tweezers to carefully remove the metal shield that’s covering the battery connector.

– Let’s get started! Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the battery connector. Take your time and make sure it’s completely disconnected before moving on to the next step.

– Give your device a quick test run before locking everything back down—always good to be sure!

– Stick the new battery in place using pre-cut adhesive or double-sided tape. The trick is to put the adhesive inside the device where the old stuff was, not straight onto the battery. Press it in—firmly, but don’t Hulk out.

– Ready to put it all back together? Just reverse the steps! Before sealing things up, swipe away any leftover gunk with a Q-tip dipped in high isopropyl alcohol (>90%) or a cleaning pad—your device will appreciate the spa treatment.

– Want your new battery to perform like a champ? Calibrate it after you’re done with the guide.

– Don’t toss old parts in the trash—recycle them at an R2 or e-Stewards certified facility. Mother Earth gives you a thumbs-up.

– If you hit a snag, try some basic troubleshooting, or get help from the Answers community. Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair.

– Before diving into repairs, remove your watch from the charger and power it down. If your touchscreen is acting up and you can’t turn off the watch normally, no worries—use this alternative method to power it down and get ready to get the job done.

– Since the gap between the screen and the watch body is super slim, you’ll need a sharp blade to carefully separate them. Make sure to read the following warnings before you start to stay safe and prevent damage.

– Grab your trusty iOpener (or if you’re feeling crafty, a hair dryer or heat gun will do the trick) and warm up the front of your watch to break that stubborn display adhesive loose.

– Keep the iOpener cozy on the watch for at least two minutes to ensure the screen is nice and toasty, making it easier to separate from the case.

– Slip the edge of a curved blade into that slim space between the display and the outer shell. Start on the short edge, right by the digital crown.

– Give it a confident push straight down into the gap.

– Once you’re in, give the blade a gentle tilt to nudge the display up just a bit.

– After you’ve got a tiny gap started with the curved blade, switch it out for an opening tool with a thinner edge and slide it into the opening.

– Use your thumb as a lever and gently push the opening tool further into the gap to nudge the display open a bit more.

– You made it! To put everything back together, just follow these steps in reverse. Before installing new adhesive, use a Q-tip or cleaning pad with some high-isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to gently wipe away any leftover adhesive from the Force Touch gasket.

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t worry! Check out our Answers community for some troubleshooting help. And if you’re still stuck, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.