Month: August 2025

– Unplug your watch from the charger and turn it off before you dive in.

– Grab an iOpener, a hair dryer, or a heat gun—whatever gets the job done—and warm up the face of the watch until it’s just a little too hot to touch comfortably.

– Keep that iOpener in place on the watch for at least a minute to give the screen a good warm-up and loosen up the adhesive that’s holding it down.

– Slide the edge of a curved blade into the slim gap between the screen and the outer shell. Begin on the short side near the digital crown.

– Push straight down into the gap with a bit of pressure.

– Once the blade is in, give it a gentle tilt to nudge the display open just a bit.

– Alright, you’ve successfully pried open a tiny gap with that trusty curved blade! Now, go ahead and take it out, but don’t get too comfortable—grab your opening tool and slide its thinner edge into that gap.

– Gently nudge the opening tool into the space you made. Use your thumb as a little lever to lift the display just a bit more. You’re doing great!

– Slide an opening pick under the display and gently work your way around the edge to loosen up the Force Touch gasket.

– Keep gliding the pick along the display to break up the adhesive between the gasket and the screen. Take your time—slow and steady wins the race!

– Time to get started! Open the display to about a 45° angle. Now, grab those tweezers and carefully peel off the adhesive between the display and the Force Touch gasket. Take your time, it’s a delicate process.

– Next, gently thread the adhesive around and behind the display cables. This might take a little patience, but you’ve got this! Keep going until it’s completely removed.

– Grab your Y000 driver and spin out the tri-point screw holding down the metal cover plate.

– Snag a pair of tweezers and lift off the cover plate with style.

– Open the plate all the way up to free both flaps from their cozy spots.

– Now, fold it halfway shut and gently pop it out—mission accomplished!

– Gently lift the battery’s connector straight up to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Give that connector a little upward bend to keep it safe from accidental contact. Safety first!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape covering the display cable connectors. Start peeling from the bottom right corner of the tape, then carefully work your way toward the connector in the middle. Take your time—precision is key! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– If it rips, just grab the bottom left corner and peel it away. Doing it this way keeps the shiny foil underneath looking sharp and untouched.

– Time to get started! Use a pry tool or a clean fingernail to release the first of the three ZIF connectors. Simply pry up the small black locking flap opposite the cable to unlock it.

– Gently lift the locking flaps on those last two ZIF connectors.

– Most replacement screens come with these flaps snugly closed. When putting everything back together, be sure to pop those flaps open before plugging in the cables. Otherwise, you might end up causing a bit of trouble for your device!

– Grab your tweezers and gently coax the display flex cables out of their connectors. No need to rush—just a smooth, easy pull does the trick.

– Take out the display carefully. For more detailed reassembly tips, including replacing the Force Touch gasket and the sticky adhesive around it, check out the guide linked in the conclusion below.

– Before diving into the repair, make sure to take your watch off the charger and power it down. This keeps things safe and smooth sailing. If you need a hand at any point, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Warm up that screen like it’s a fresh cookie—grab your iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun and toast the watch face until it’s just shy of “yikes, hot!”

– Let the warmth chill on the watch for a good minute so the adhesive loosens up and the screen says “okay, I’m ready to pop.”

– Slip the curved blade into the slim gap between the screen and the outer shell, starting on the short side by the digital crown.

– Press straight down with purpose until the blade slides in.

– Now, give the blade a gentle tilt to nudge the display open just a bit.

– Once you’ve made a little opening with the curved blade, swap it out for the slim side of your opening tool and slide it into the gap.

– Use your thumb as a handy pivot and nudge the tool inside to gently pop the display up a bit more.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the display—think of it as a guitar solo, but for your device—and start easing the Force Touch gasket away from the screen.

– Work the pick all the way around the display, separating the sticky adhesive holding the Force Touch gasket to the screen. Take your time, and let the pick do the heavy lifting!

– Gently open the display to about a 45° angle, and with the help of tweezers, carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding the display to the Force Touch gasket. You’re doing great!

– Now, thread that adhesive around and behind the display cables to fully detach it. Keep it up, you’re almost there!

– Grab your Y000 driver and unscrew that tri-point screw holding down the metal cover plate.

– Pick up your trusty tweezers and lift off the cover plate.

– Swing the plate open all the way to pop both flaps out of their spots.

– Fold it back halfway, then lift it right out—easy does it!

– Gently lift the battery connector straight up to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Give that connector a little bend upwards to ensure it doesn’t accidentally touch anything. Safety first!

– Get your trusty pry tool and gently lift the Force Touch gasket connection straight up—easy peasy!

– Heat up your iOpener for another 30 seconds and lay it on top of the Force Touch gasket to loosen the sticky stuff underneath. (Or grab a hair dryer or heat gun for the same effect.)

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel off that Force Touch gasket like a pro!

– Now, give the display a slight tilt forward and hold that gasket at a cool diagonal angle as you gracefully thread it over the display to remove it.

– Give your watch a good wipe-down to remove all traces of glue and any broken glass lurking around the edges. Next, gently scrub the case using a cleaning pad, or get creative with the tip of an opening tool or spudger wrapped in a lint-free cloth or coffee filter—dipped in a bit of 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. If you’re in a pinch, a Q-tip can do the trick. For tough spots, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with Salvation Repair if you need a pro touch.

– Wipe the old sticky stuff off the back of your display like you’re clearing your phone of bad vibes—keep it chill so the surface’s ready for a fresh bond.

– Grab some tweezers and gently peel off the blue protective layer from the bottom of the replacement Force Touch gasket, revealing the sticky side underneath. Just make sure the connector pins are facing you, or you’ll end up peeling from the wrong side. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Make sure the sticky side is facing down and gently place the Force Touch gasket over the display (if it’s still connected), then snug it into its spot in the case.

– Tilt the display just a bit forward to help you line up the Force Touch gasket perfectly with the frame.

– Ensure the connector is lined up just right with its socket.

– Click those connectors back into action! Gently press down the Force Touch gasket and battery flex cable until you hear that satisfying snap. You’ve got this!

– Grab some tweezers and gently place that shiny metal plate back over the battery connector, making sure it’s sitting just right where it belongs.

– Next up, screw in the Y000 tri-point screw to keep everything snug and secure.

– Before sealing everything up, turn on your device and give all its functions a quick test drive—better to catch any issues early than after it’s all closed up!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and carefully peel away that blue protective liner resting on the Force Touch gasket. You’re about to uncover the last bit of adhesive—let’s keep it smooth and steady!

– Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let’s keep our planet happy!

– Things didn’t go quite as smoothly as you hoped? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our Answers forum for a helping hand. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair!

– Check out this Series 3 Apple Watch that’s got a display issue. Bummer, right?

– Let’s get that fixed up and back to shining!

– Let’s kick things off by taking out that shattered display. The more it’s shattered, the easier it pops off! Easy peasy, right?

– Next up, clear away any sticky residue and tape from the Force Touch Sensor, and give it a good look over for any damage. If you find something off, don’t hesitate to swap it out!

– On the right side, you’ll find the module with the NFC and Light Sensor. It’s held on with some sticky adhesive dots, two little solder bumps (for the NFC antenna), and a bit of copper tape.

– Snip the copper tape to free up the NFC module.

– Grab your trusty Xacto #17 blade and carefully chisel away the NFC module from the display that’s seen better days.

– Try to keep that blade nice and parallel to the display for a smooth operation.

– Great news! The NFC module is now free as a bird. There’s a little tape hanging out on the back of it; just grab your tweezers and give it a gentle peel.

– Look closely and you’ll spot two shiny solder bumps down there. These are your buddies connecting the NFC antenna.

– If you’re thinking about using alcohol or any other solvent to tidy things up, just a tiny dab will do! We want to keep that Light Sensor in tip-top shape.

– Here’s a fresh (probably recycled) Series 2 Display I picked up online, marked with a ‘2’ just for fun. Next, gently remove the NFC module from the display—feel free to toss it or sprinkle it on your breakfast cereal, no judgment here. Be a little careful during removal; I got a bit overzealous and took off some of the black tape covering the NFC antenna, but no worries—it’s all good. This also gives you a peek at a corner of the NFC antenna. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s get started by putting a little bit of ‘Z Tape’ on the back of the module. This tape is pretty cool because it lets electricity flow through it vertically, but keeps it from going sideways.

– In this picture, you can see that the release layer is still on the Z Tape. Don’t worry, we’ll peel it off before we attach the module to the Series 2 Display.

– Absolutely! That’s our Series 2 Display paired up with the NFC module from the S3 Display that took a hit. Getting this aligned just right is key, so make sure you place it carefully and don’t just throw it on there haphazardly.

– Sometimes things run smoothly, and other times you’ll need to reflash the OS to get everything working together smoothly. Good luck tracking down those elusive IPSW files. If you hit a snag or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.

– Once you’ve tackled everything, it’s time to set up Apple Pay on your Watch! You’ll see it communicates smoothly with the NXP TagInfo app.

– Just a heads-up: I had to grab an Android phone for testing the NFC because Apple keeps their apps at a distance from the deeper NFC magic on iPhones.

– Before diving into the repair, make sure to take your watch off the charger and power it down. This keeps things safe and smooth sailing. If you need a hand at any point, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Grab an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun and warm up the face of your watch until it feels a bit too warm for comfort.

– Let the iOpener chill on the watch for a solid minute so the screen gets nice and toasty—this will loosen up the adhesive holding it to the case.

– Let’s get started by carefully inserting the curved blade into the narrow gap between the display and the outer case, beginning at the short side closest to the digital crown.

– Now, press the blade firmly straight down into the gap to create some space.

– Once the blade is in, gently tilt it to pry the display open slightly – you’re making progress!

– After you’ve created a little opening with that nifty curved blade, go ahead and take it out. Now, slide in the thinner edge of your trusty opening tool into that gap.

– Gently push the opening tool further into the gap, using your thumb to help lift the display just a bit more. You’re doing great!

– Start by slipping an opening pick under the display and gently pry the Force Touch gasket away from the screen.

– Carefully run the pick around the edge to loosen the adhesive holding the gasket and display together.

– Crack the display open to about a 45° angle—like you’re giving it a little peekaboo—then grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel away the adhesive connecting the display to the Force Touch gasket.

– Carefully work the adhesive around and behind those display cables until it’s completely free.

– Grab your Y000 driver and spin out the tri-point screw holding the metal cover plate in place.

– Next, snag those tweezers and gently pop off the cover plate.

– Open the plate all the way up so those two flaps come unhooked.

– Now, fold it halfway closed and lift it out—like a tiny trapdoor escape. Onward!

– Gently lift the battery connector straight up to disconnect it—think of it as lifting a lid, not yanking a plug. Then, give the connector a slight bend upward to ensure it stays out of contact and doesn’t accidentally reconnect. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your scissors and trim one of your opening picks so it’s about as wide as the battery. Keep those corners rounded—you want to avoid making a medieval torture device.

– Slide your newly shaped pick between the battery and the case, targeting the side furthest from the digital crown.

– Apply steady, gentle pressure to pry the battery up and away from the sticky adhesive holding it down. Take your time—slow and steady wins this race.

– Pop out that battery and set it aside.

– Don’t forget to peel off the liner so the adhesive on your shiny new battery is ready to stick.

– If you’re swapping out the Force Touch sensor, check out the guide linked at the end for the full rundown on installing a new one and sealing things up.

– Just replacing the sticky stuff? Follow the adhesive replacement guide for tips on applying new adhesive and getting everything back together.

– If you’re in a pinch, reusing the old adhesive might do the trick. Or use a bit of double-sided tape (like Tesa 61395) or a small dab of liquid adhesive (such as E6000) to hold things in place.

– Grab a Q-tip or a cleaning pad and dampen it with a splash of isopropyl alcohol (over 99% is ideal). Gently wipe away those pesky adhesive remnants lingering on the force touch gasket. You’ve got this!

– Flip the Apple Watch over so the screen is flat and gently lift the case away.

– Wipe away any leftover gunk from the back of the display to get a clean slate.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the replacement adhesive, making sure to keep that blue protective film intact as you lift it off the backing paper. You’ve got this!

– Grab that replacement adhesive and hold it diagonally over the display like a pro!

– Gently tilt the display forward to line up that adhesive just right with the frame. You’ve got this!

– Now, place the adhesive on top of the force touch gasket and take the pointed end of your spudger to nudge and press it into position. You’re doing great!

– Pop the battery back in place, just like in the guide you followed earlier. Easy peasy!

– Peel off the protective film from the adhesive—time to stick everything down securely.

– Line up the screen with the frame, then press down gently but firmly to stick it to the adhesive.

– Want to give that adhesive some extra love? Warm up the display with an iOpener, then apply steady pressure for a few hours—stacking a couple of hefty books on top overnight does the trick.

– Place the device on a clean white surface to look for any spots, lines, or other visual issues—think of it as giving it a test drive for clarity.

– Don’t forget to jot down the device’s serial number before moving forward; it’s needed to generate a Technical Report. If you need a hand with that, you can always schedule a repair.

– Kick things off by unplugging your device and switching it off. Then, press and hold both side buttons together. When the Apple logo pops up, let go of the circular button but keep holding the other. Once the logo disappears again, you can release that button too—your device will be powered down and ready for the next step. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s get this screen loose! Place the Apple Watch screen on the heating plate at 100°C for 1 minute. This will soften the glue that’s holding it in place, making it easier to remove the screen from the frame.

– Start by drizzling some alcohol around the screen’s edge. Then, gently slide the blade into that sneaky little gap between the screen and the frame.

– Press down firmly and angle the blade towards the screen as you lift it away. You’re doing great!

– Just a friendly reminder: keep the spudger blade within 2mm of the device. Going deeper could mess with the ‘Force Touch’ feature, and we don’t want that!

– Grab some isopropyl alcohol and gently lift away the tape that’s hanging on to those flex cables and connectors.

– With your trusty plastic lever, pop open the first of three ZIF connectors by lifting the tiny tab on the side opposite the cable.

– Flip up the locking tabs on the other two ZIF connectors. Almost there!

– Now, using tweezers, carefully separate the flex cables from the screen—just a gentle pull will do it. Screen’s off!

– Gently warm up the Apple Watch screen by placing it on a hot plate at 100°C for about 2 minutes—think of it as giving the glass a warm hug to loosen up.

– Grab the middle of the display with steady hands, then use a pair of pliers or nail nippers to carefully trim the curved edges—start on the sides, then move to the top and bottom. Keep it cool, calm, and precise!

– Once you’ve popped off the edges, lay down some adhesive tape on the screen and let it chill in the separator at 100°C.

– Grab your tweezers or a slim metal spudger, splash on a bit of isopropyl alcohol, and gently lift off the grounding.

– With a metal spudger and a little isopropyl alcohol, carefully pry up the touch flex (that’s the one in the middle).

– Fire up the separator vacuum so the screen stays put—no runaway screens here.

– Gently slide a 0.4mm molybdenum, steel, or gold wire between the touchscreen and the OLED panel of your Apple Watch.

– Keep your hand steady and saw back and forth at the same level as the glass—pretend you’re slicing through a tough sandwich, not hacking at a log.

– Start by checking the display for any glass shards. If you spot any sharp bits hanging around, grab some isopropyl alcohol and use the OCA protective film to safely clear them away.

– Once you’ve finished the glass cleanup, place the display on a sturdy surface and use a grinding machine to remove any leftover glue.

– Grab some isopropyl alcohol and wipe away any leftover OCA glue, along with any grime or grease that’s hanging around.

– When you’re ready to reapply the OCA glue, smooth it out in the same direction as the display flex cable for best results.

– First things first, peel off that OCA protection and gently place the display into the application cast. You’re doing great!

– Next up, let’s get that touch glass applied on the cast. Nice and steady!

– Now, with one hand holding the cast, use your other hand to position your index finger below the screen and your thumb on top. Once you’re all set, just close it up and lift the screen away from the cast. You’ve got this!

– Lay the screen gently on the lamination rubber and close the lamination top to seal the deal!

– Now, let’s get to laminating! Set it for 2 minutes at 40°C and let the magic happen.

– Place the screen in the autoclave at 50°C for up to 10 minutes.

– Grab your trusty metal tweezers and a splash of isopropyl alcohol to carefully pluck out those pesky glass shards lurking around the edges.

– Dip a cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and gently swipe along the edges to clear away the stubborn glue film hugging the force touch area.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel away the blue protective film from the replacement adhesive—slow and steady wins this race.

– Line up the adhesive with the frame, making sure everything’s looking sharp.

– Set the new adhesive right on top of the force touch, then use the pointy end of your plastic tool to nudge and press it perfectly into place.

– Gently position those flex wires onto the ZIF connectors, and with the help of your trusty ‘mouse tooth’ tweezers, guide them into place. It’s like a little dance for your wires!

– Once they’re snugly connected, swing those drawers closed.

– Now, let’s bring your device to life! Power it on and run some tests to see how it’s doing.

– Peel off that protective film from the adhesive covering the force touch like a pro.

– Gently place the screen onto the adhesive around the edges and give it a good press.

– Pop the device into the autoclave for a cozy 2-minute spa treatment.

– Finally, power it up and give the screen a sparkling clean with some lens cleaner.

– Our watches are getting smarter every day! Let’s dive into what the latest generation of Apple wrist gadgets has in store for us:

– A dazzling second-generation OLED Retina display complete with Force Touch.

– A custom-designed Apple S2 SiP (System in Package) for that extra zing.

– Sporting built-in GPS, NFC, Wi-Fi 802.11b/g/n at 2.4 GHz, and Bluetooth 4.0 to keep you connected.

– Equipped with an accelerometer, gyroscope, heart rate sensor, microphone, speaker, and ambient light sensor for all your tracking needs.

– Water resistance rated for depths of up to 50 meters, so you can splash around without a worry.

– Running on WatchOS 3 to keep everything smooth and snappy.

– With the debut of the Apple Watch Series 2, the original Apple Watch has stepped aside, making way for the new ‘Series 1’—a fresh model powered by a speedy dual-core chip. On the back, you’ll see a familiar quartet of optical polymer lenses guarding a cluster of LEDs and photodiodes. This guide will walk you through the steps to handle these parts with confidence. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair for expert assistance.

– With some solid know-how from the original Apple Watch and an iOpener in hand, we’re ready to take on that stubborn adhesive and open up the screen.

– A little teamwork between a knife, a pick, and a healthy dose of determination, and we’re in!

– At first glance, the Series 2 looks a lot like the previous model. But pop it open, and you’ll spot some slick ZIF connectors replacing those clunky old press connectors.

– Flip the display over and you’ll uncover a bunch of control hardware doing its thing:

– Apple 343S00092

– 20211CP TD1628A

– NXP 67V04 NFC Controller (yep, the same one from the iPhone 7 Plus)

– Gently slide the remaining band away from the watch body and begin carefully prying for the battery. Just like the battery bracket in its cellular-capable sibling, this part is secured with a tricky tri-point screw. Luckily, your 64-bit driver kit has got it covered! With a smooth flick of your spudger, this watch is now powerless and ready for the next step. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Turns out, if something looks extra easy, there’s probably a catch waiting for you.

– Under the Series 2 battery, Apple went all out with the adhesive—let’s just say it’s enough to keep an iPad screen glued down.

– But hey, a little stickiness never stopped us! With some careful picking, peeling, and gentle pulling, the battery finally gives up the glue and comes out clean.

– Now that the battery is free from its sticky situation, we can admire its stats up close. This little powerhouse runs at 3.77 V and packs 273 mAh, giving you a solid 1.03 Whr of juice.

– Apple claims the Series 2 keeps the same 18-hour battery life as the original Apple Watch, which means that built-in GPS is definitely pulling its weight.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it around the edge of the watch. You’ll uncover the Force Touch sensor and gasket, which look quite similar to the one from the original model!

– Now, here’s a fun twist: unlike last year’s version, there’s a sneaky little IC tucked away on the Force Touch gasket!

– It’s the Analog Devices AD7149 Capacitance Sensor Controller, waiting to be discovered!

– Next up in our disassembly adventure is the impressively sizable Taptic Engine.

– The Taptic Engine is Apple’s clever version of the linear resonant actuator. It moves in a straight line (unlike the circular dance of an electric motor), giving you that delightful haptic feedback.

– Now that the Taptic Engine is out, let’s take a peek at the antenna module hiding up at the top of the watch.

– Alright, enough sightseeing—grab those tweezers, there’s still more to uncover in this tiny tech wonder.

– Nestled on the outer edge, we uncover a tricky cable assembly—your go-to spot for the microphone and speaker.

– The Apple Watch Series 2 is all about making waves while staying dry. It’s got a whole army of gaskets and o-rings to help out.

– So, how effective are these gaskets and o-rings at keeping the water at bay? The Apple Watch Series 2 bravely resists water intrusion down to 50 meters, following the ISO standard 22810:2010. This means it’s perfect for a swim in the pool, but it might not be the best buddy for certain activities.

– Ready for a little water show? This speaker doesn’t just fear water—it welcomes it. Designed with ingress protection, it’s all about letting water in just so it can kick it right back out.

– Instead of just letting water take over like the original Apple Watch speaker, this version fills up, then uses vibrations to clear out any extra water. A little shake, a little rattle, and your speaker’s back in business.

– One last ribbon cable—guardian of the Home Button and Digital Crown encoder—stands between us and the heart of this tiny wrist computer.

– No biggie. We slide past this cable crew like it’s the velvet rope at our favorite café and get to the real star of the show: the core system-in-package.

– With our trusty Apple Watch Opening Pick (fresh from the toolbox), we gently pop the package out of its rear hideout—easy does it.

– We’re almost there! The last piece of the puzzle is the sensor array nestled in the back cover of your watch.

– This awesome four-sensor setup features infrared sensors, visible-light LEDs, and photosensors that keep tabs on your heart rate all day long.

– Once we pop out the sensor assembly, we’ll catch a glimpse of what we think is the inductive charging coil still hanging out in the cover.

– Looks like we’ve got an NXP Semiconductor Analog Front End Controller in the mix (or so we believe).

– That’s a wrap, folks! With our Apple Watch laid out in pieces on the teardown table, let’s take a moment to gather everything and cross our fingers that it stays waterproof when we put it back together!

– First things first, let’s give your watch a little break! Unplug it from the charger and power it down before we dive into the repairs.

– Get ready to loosen things up! Use an iOpener (or grab a hair dryer or heat gun) to warm up the watch face until it’s just a bit too hot to touch.

– Keep the iOpener on the watch for about a minute. This will help the screen and the adhesive that holds it to the case get nice and toasty, making the next steps a breeze.

– Let’s get this repair started! Carefully insert the curved blade into the slim gap between the display and the outer case, beginning at the shorter side of the display, closest to the digital crown.

– Now, press down firmly into the gap to get a good grip.

– Once the blade is in place, gently tilt it to pry the display open just a bit. You’re making great progress!

– Pop that blade into the tiny gap you just made, then swap it out for the slimmer edge of your opening tool.

– Wiggle the opening tool into the space, and use your thumb as a lever to nudge the display open a little more.

– Let’s get this repair started! Begin by sliding an opening pick under the display and gently prying the Force Touch gasket away from the display.

– Now, work your way around the display with the pick to loosen the adhesive holding the Force Touch gasket in place. Take your time and be careful not to apply too much pressure.

– Gently open the display at a cozy 45° angle, then grab your trusty tweezers and start peeling off that pesky adhesive between the display and the Force Touch gasket like a pro.

– Now, carefully thread the adhesive around and behind the display cables to completely bid it farewell.

– Grab your trusty Y000 driver and twist out that Tri-point screw holding the metal battery connector cover in place. You’ve got this!

– Now, gently lift off the cover and reveal the magic inside.

– Let’s get started by disconnecting the battery – simply use the edge of a pry tool to gently lift its connector straight up.

– To avoid any accidental connections, give the connector a slight bend upwards. You’re making great progress!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the tape that’s covering those display cable connectors. You’ve got this!

– Starting from the bottom right corner of the tape, take your time and work your way towards the connector in the middle. Precision is key!

– If you see a tear, gently pull from the bottom left to take it off completely. This way, the matching foil underneath (on the display) stays safe and sound!

– Gently grab a pry tool or your trusty clean fingernail and get ready to unlock the first of the three ZIF connectors! Just lift that little black locking flap on the opposite side of the cable with care, and you’re on your way.

– Lift the locking tabs on the remaining two ZIF connectors—think of them as the gatekeepers for your cables. Usually, replacement screens come with these tabs closed tight. Before you slide in those cables during reassembly, make sure the tabs are flipped open; otherwise, you might end up damaging your watch. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with the pros.

– Grab your tweezers and carefully wiggle those display flex cables free. Nice and easy does it—no need to rush!

– Pop that screen off like a pro—easy does it!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, peep the reassembly guide tucked at the end for the full rundown on the Force Touch gasket and sticky stuff. You’ve got this!

– Before diving into the fun of repairs, make sure to unplug your watch from its charger and power it down. Let’s get started on this journey together!

– Get your trusty iOpener (or if you’re feeling crafty, a hair dryer or heat gun will do the trick) and warm up the front of the watch until it’s a tad too hot to handle.

– Keep that iOpener cozy on the watch for at least a minute so the screen gets nice and toasty, making it easier to loosen the adhesive that’s keeping it snug in the case.

– Slide the edge of a curved blade into the slim gap between the display and the outer shell. Begin at the shorter side of the display, right near the digital crown.

– Give it a firm press straight down into that gap.

– Once you’re in there, gently tilt the blade to nudge the display open just a bit.

– Once you’ve made a small gap with the curved blade, swap it out for the thinner edge of your opening tool and slide it right into the gap.

– Press the opening tool in, using your thumb as a lever to gently lift the display a little more. Slow and steady wins the race!

– Let’s get this repair started! Begin by carefully inserting an opening pick under the display to loosen the Force Touch gasket – it’s like a little wake-up call for your device.

– Now, gently slide the pick around the display to break the adhesive bond between the Force Touch gasket and the display. Take your time, and remember, patience is key!

– Gently lift the display to about a 45° angle and grab your trusty tweezers to peel away the adhesive that’s sticking the display to the Force Touch gasket.

– Carefully maneuver the adhesive around and behind the display cables to completely free it up.

– Grab your Y000 driver and spin out the Tri-point screw holding down the metal cover over the battery connector.

– Lift off the cover and set it aside.

– Pop the battery’s connector straight up with the edge of your trusty pry tool—think of it as unhooking a tiny seatbelt.

– Then, give that connector a gentle bend upward so it stays clear and can’t sneak back in for an accidental power hug.

– Grab your trusty pry tool and gently ease the Force Touch gasket away by prying it straight up from the outer edge. You’ve got this!

– Gently pop up the connector plate for the Force Touch gasket.

– Take your tweezers or a pry tool and slide it under the gasket to loosen the adhesive underneath.

– Work your way around the watch, freeing the adhesive everywhere except by the display cables—those little guys are easy to tear, so steer clear of that side.

– Gently wiggle that Force Touch gasket around the display like it’s a cozy sweater!

– Now, tilt the display nearly shut so you can gracefully peel off the Force Touch gasket from the last stubborn edge.

– Wave goodbye to the Force Touch gasket—it’s time to let it go!

– If your display is already on holiday because you’re swapping it out, it might be best to leave the new one disconnected for the moment. You can reconnect it after tackling the Force Touch gasket (that’s just five steps away).

– Grab a Q-tip or a cleaning pad and give it a little dip in some isopropyl alcohol (make sure it’s over 90%!). Gently wipe away any leftover adhesive from that former force touch gasket. You’re doing great!

– Let’s get started by flipping that watch upside-down, so the display is flat and ready for action. Just lift up the case slightly to get things moving.

– Now it’s time to get rid of any leftover adhesive on the back of the display. Take your time and be gentle, we’re making progress!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel off the protective liner from the bottom of your new Force Touch gasket, revealing the sticky side underneath. Easy peasy—just take your time and keep it neat. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Hold the Force Touch gasket diagonally and slide it over the display like you’re threading a needle – smooth and steady.

– Tilt the display slightly forward to get a good angle, making it easier to line up that gasket with the frame.

– Start at the corner opposite the Force Touch gasket connector, gently set the gasket onto the frame, and press down to secure it in place.

– Time to get this repair started! Use a pry tool to gently fold the connector plate of the Force Touch gasket down into its cozy little recess.

– Now, let’s get that flex cable reconnected. Simply press it down gently, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device. If you’re unsure, don’t worry, it’s an easy step!

– Take your trusty spudger and nudge the battery connector back where it belongs.

– Give the battery flex cable a gentle press to snap it back into place.

– Grab some tweezers and carefully position that metal plate back over the battery connector — think of it as placing a tiny puzzle piece where it belongs.

– Screw in the Tri-point #000 screw to secure everything in place—firm but gentle, just like tightening a friendship.

– Before sealing everything up, it’s a good idea to power on the device and do a quick check to make sure all systems are go. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your tweezers and carefully peel off the protective film on top of the Force Touch gasket—keep it smooth and gentle!

– Ready to say goodbye to your e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler!

– Things not going as smoothly as you hoped? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or check out our Answers forum for a helping hand.

– If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Before you dive into the repair, make sure to remove your watch from the charger and power down the device. This keeps everything safe and stress-free. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Get your heat on! Use an iOpener (or grab a hair dryer or heat gun) to warm up the watch face until it’s just a bit too hot to handle.

– Let the iOpener do its magic for at least a minute to loosen the adhesive that’s holding the screen in place. This will make the removal process a whole lot easier.

– Slide the edge of a curved blade into the slim gap between the display and the outer casing. Start at the shorter side of the display, right by the digital crown.

– Press down firmly into the gap, like you’re giving it a little love tap.

– Once the blade is in, give it a gentle tilt to start prying the display open just a bit.

– First, gently wiggle your curved blade into a small gap to create some space. Once you’ve got that little opening, take out the blade and slide in the thinner edge of your trusty opening tool.

– Now, go ahead and push that opening tool into the gap. Use your thumb as a handy pivot to nudge the display open just a bit more!

– Gently slide an opening pick beneath the display and carefully detach the Force Touch gasket from it.

– Run the pick around the display to break the adhesive bond between the Force Touch gasket and the display.

– Crack that display open to about a 45° angle, then grab your tweezers and gently pull away the sticky adhesive hanging out between the screen and the Force Touch gasket.

– Carefully thread the adhesive around and behind those display cables to peel it all off—take your time and don’t rush the sticky stuff.

– Grab your trusty Y000 driver and gently unscrew that Tri-point screw holding down the metal battery connector cover.

– Once it’s free, just lift off the cover like a pro!

– Gently lift the battery connector straight up using the edge of a pry tool—think of it as giving it a friendly nudge to disconnect. Then, bend the connector slightly upward to ensure it stays clear and doesn’t accidentally make contact again. If you need a hand with the process, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now that you’ve cleared the way for the battery connector, gently slide the tip of your trusty pry tool under the battery connector plate, which is an important part of the battery.

– Carefully lift that battery connector plate up and out of its snug little home.

– Get ready to DIY like a pro! Take your scissors and trim one of your opening picks to roughly the width of the battery. Just be sure to smooth out any sharp edges.

– Now it’s time to get a little tricky. Carefully insert the modified pick between the edge of the battery and the case, on the opposite side of the digital crown. Take your time and be gentle.

– Here comes the fun part! Use steady, consistent pressure to slowly pry the battery up, loosening it from the adhesive that’s holding it in place on the system board. You got this!

– First, carefully remove the battery. Then, peel off the protective liner to reveal the adhesive on your new battery before placing it in position. If you’re working with a watch and need to install a new Force Touch sensor, follow the detailed guide linked in the conclusion below. For those just replacing the adhesive without swapping the sensor, see the adhesive replacement guide for tips on applying fresh adhesive and reassembling. If the existing adhesive still holds, you might try reusing it, or opt for a small piece of double-sided tape like Tesa 61395, or a dab of liquid glue such as E6000 to secure the battery. If you run into any snags, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for extra help.