Month: August 2025

– Turn your watch over so the screen is facing down.

– Pop those bands off like you’re unlocking a secret level—press the little buttons on both sides and give each strap a smooth slide to the right. Bam, wristwear no more!

– Grab a microfiber cloth and give that watch a good wipe-down.

– Make sure to banish all those pesky smudges while you’re at it!

– Time to gear up! Slap on those gloves and grab a polishing cloth that’s soaking in a bit of that creamy goodness. Give one side of the watch a nice back-and-forth rub. It’s like a spa day for your watch!

– Keep the good vibes rolling and do the same magic on each side of the watch. Shine on!

– Grab your microfiber cloth and gently buff the same area you cleaned earlier until all the residue is gone and the surface shines like new. Do this on each side of the watch for a flawless finish. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Nice work! Your Apple Watch is looking sharp again.

– If things didn’t go as planned, you can always schedule a repair for some extra backup.

– Once upon a time, Creative Electron shared an eye-popping X-ray teardown of the iPhone 6. Recently, some sharp-eyed tech enthusiasts got to spend a day exploring the magic of science firsthand at their labs in sunny San Marcos, CA. Creative Electron’s lineup features: a series of super-cool X-ray inspection systems, a talented crew of employees, and some seriously insightful features. If you need a hand with your repairs, you can always schedule a repair to get expert help.

– First thing you’ll spot: the battery takes up a ton of real estate inside the watch, but it’s practically a ghost in the X-ray—look for the hazy patch on the right.

– The real attention-grabbers in the X-ray are the magnets. They’re the darkest bits you see—the speakers hanging out on the lower left, the Taptic Engine, and that little magnet in the center keeping the charger in line.

– Comparing the Apple Watch to a Nike+ Sport GPS is like comparing apples to oranges—each has its own flavor!

– The Apple Watch is compact and packed tightly, leaving almost no room to spare. Plus, it boasts a visibly cool inductive charging coil.

– On the other hand, the Nike+ Sport GPS showcases larger screws, ample chip layouts, and sensors that extend beyond the main watch body.

– Kick things off by tackling the Digital Crown—Apple made a big deal out of how cool this part is, so we’re giving it some attention. Inside, you’ll find a tiny but classically designed mechanical component—think threaded bits and a solid bushing. As shown in our original teardown, the inside of the crown shaft has tiny notches, and just below that, an optical emitter or sensor reads these notches as they spin by. This setup acts as the encoder. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– As we move around the edge, you’ll spot the side button catching your eye.

– Even through the X-ray, this button has that unmistakable Apple vibe.

– Sticking with the sleek style, Apple went with a design that’s pretty similar to the spring-loaded power button on the iPhone 6.

– Let’s turn our attention to the band-release button. It might look basic, but it’s actually packed with two layers of spring-loaded pins working together.

– Take a glance to the right of the band—there you’ll spot the elusive diagnostic port, quietly waiting to be discovered.

– Let’s take a peek at what’s hiding on the board: with a little X-ray magic, we can uncover the secrets of those tiny components.

– Check out the inductors – you can actually see the wire coils inside!

– Capacitors, on the other hand, are a bit more mysterious, with their wrapped dielectric layers keeping things under wraps.

– Resistors might be hard to spot, but look for the solder that’s melted and formed a fillet on the edges – that’s your clue.

– And then there are the invisible crystals, tucked away behind protective walls, but strategically placed near the processor to keep latency and signal interference at bay.

– Take a closer look and you’ll see the wire coils of the inductive charger, the dark blobs that are solder mounts for a chip, and the wavy background pattern that’s actually the flash memory chip – we’ll dive deeper into that later…

– The layout of the electronics is impressively precise. Chip-scale packages (CSPs) are scattered all over the board, and with such a snug fit, accuracy is essential—resulting in higher production costs.

– A big chunk of the expense comes from the board being densely packed with CSPs instead of the larger soldered packages.

– Check it out—the Apple S1 computer-on-chip in all its glory. Where things were a little hidden before, now we’ve got a solid view and some interesting details to share.

– Here’s the one uncovered chip on the S1: an STMicroelectronics gyroscope and accelerometer, ready for action.

– Apple sealed the S1 in resin, which let them use wire bonding to connect chips in Package on Package (PoP) stacks. These wire bonds are seriously tiny, about 10-17 microns—think super-fine hair.

– This approach saves space (since soldered packages are chunkier), but pulling it off takes some real manufacturing wizardry.

– Chipworks has been busy diving deep into the S1 over the past couple of weeks, and here’s the scoop:

– Take a peek at Chipworks’ complete analysis right here.

– The Apple S1 System in Package (SiP) packs in over 30 components neatly arranged on a single board, which is then wrapped in a durable silica or aluminum composite resin—think of it like classic IC packaging, but for an entire board!

– At the core of the S1, we have Apple’s snazzy APL0778 processor, crafted using Samsung’s 28 nm LP process.

– Check out the flash storage—it’s attached to the board with its solder points right on top. That pattern? Yeah, it threw us for a loop. Not your usual setup.

– Looking at the lines and vias on the chip, you’ll see this board is rocking four layers: two for signals, one for power, and one for ground. That’s some serious multitasking.

– Zoom in on the solder balls under the chip and you’ll spot some pale bubbles. That’s called voiding—don’t worry, it’s not a sci-fi villain.

– When you’re connecting boards, copper’s your go-to. But copper likes to rust faster than you can say ‘oxidation.’ Enter flux, the acid that helps solder stick. If there’s any flux left behind, you get voiding—those pesky bubbles.

– Too much voiding can be rough news for durability. Smooth, clean connections help heat escape, but if voiding takes over, heat gets trapped and your parts can overheat. Keep it clean for a longer-lasting device!

– Check out the weirdly-shaped metal blob at the center of the S1 – it’s definitely worth a closer look. Under X-ray, it lines up neatly with the centering magnet for the charger, which makes us think Apple might have designed it to do double duty: aligning the charger and helping to dissipate heat from the S1 SiP.

– It’s possible that this clever design choice is what helps keep your device running smoothly, so let’s take a moment to appreciate the engineering that went into it.

– Let’s give that display a little sunshine and see if we’ve overlooked anything.

– It’s looking quite similar to what we spotted earlier—cables, chips, sensors, you name it!

– But wait, a closer look reveals what could be those nifty force touch strain gauges lurking at the bottom of the screen.

– The layout of the touchscreen controller and the ribbon cable paths seem like they were crafted by an artist rather than a tech wizard.

– Capture some of the coolest shots with the X-ray bed — it’s adjustable and perfect for those sleek angled images that make it look like you’re racing through a cityscape on the Grid. Check out the tiny screws embedded in the watch case; they’re like hidden gems. The delicate ribbon cable traces resemble tiny, colorful TRON metro maps — a blend of tech beauty and function. And remember, color shifts in the images reflect changes in density, just like greyscale images. If you need a hand with anything tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Lights down, spotlight up—let’s check out the inductive charger under the X-ray.

– X-ray tip: Power and current can be tweaked. If you want sharper images, dial down the power—just know that means fewer frames per second. Creative Electron’s machines can hit 60 FPS, but we took it slower for these shots.

– X-ray tip #2: The closer the tungsten sensor is to your part, the more zoomed-in you get. But, if the part is closer to the X-ray source, that zoom drops off.

– For example, in our first shot, you get a crisp outline of the charger’s guts, all wrapped in the fogginess of its plastic shell. By the last image, you’re seeing the tiny board components up close.

– Don’t stress, this centering magnet is here to help, not harm – unless you’re a tiny metal object, then it’s got its eye on you. Either way, it ensures your device aligns perfectly for charging.

– Take a look at this clever charger. The inductive coils are at the bottom, and a weighty friend is at the top, keeping everything stable.

– Now, let’s talk density. We’ve got a colorful map to guide you through this step.

– On the left, we have a lineup of dark coupling caps—likely working together in parallel. Those tiny, light-colored dots? Just some pesky little soldering voids left over from the manufacturing process.

– This charger is packing some serious brainpower! It likely knows the battery’s charging profile, so the watch can just kick back and relax. Talk about saving space!

– The board may look a bit complex, but it’s actually just a single layer with no components on the bottom. Makes sense, right? It needs to lay flat for charging.

– Upon closer inspection, we discover a little resistor network hanging out.

– It’s a one-layer PCB for power management—probably no thicker than 0.031 inches.

– At the top, we spot a sizable BGA (ball grid array), which likely indicates the presence of a power management IC.

– Guess what? X-rays have uncovered a little hidden gem: cable strain relief!

– This nifty springy piece of metal comes with some bonus wire coiled around it, ensuring that even if you give it a good tug, the cable stays snugly attached and doesn’t go flying off into the void.

– Kudos to Apple for thinking ahead; this clever design might just outlast the very watch it’s built to charge!

– Big thanks to our partners who help us bring you the best repair guides!

– We’re excited to collaborate with them to give you the inside scoop on the latest gadgets.

– If you missed our last teardown, check out our original Apple Watch teardown and get ready to dive in!

– Hey there, tech enthusiasts! The Apple Watch is here, and it’s time to dive into the cool features that make it tick:

– A pressure-sensitive, flexible touchscreen AMOLED Retina display that responds to your every touch.

– Powered by a custom-designed Apple S1 SiP (System in Package) for that seamless experience.

– With 8 GB of onboard storage, there’s plenty of room for your favorite apps.

– Stay connected with NFC, Wi-Fi 802.11b/g/n, and Bluetooth 4.0.

– Equipped with an accelerometer, gyroscope, heart rate monitor, microphone, and speaker to keep you in tune with your health.

– Running on the innovative Watch OS for a smooth user experience.

– The wait is finally over! The Apple Watch is here, and our first step is to unbox this beauty.

– While we were dreaming of finding a golden ticket inside, we’ll happily settle for the Apple Watch Sport, complete with its Sport Band, charging cradle, and power adapter.

– A huge shoutout to MacFixit Australia for letting us use their awesome space in Melbourne for this teardown adventure. They have a great selection of Mac and iPhone upgrades and accessories, plus our handy toolkits.

– We were ready to take apart the Apple Watch when we got sidetracked by a cool graphic display—those colors are pretty mesmerizing. If you’re wondering how to secure the Sport Band, don’t worry—Apple printed clear instructions right on the back of the band to guide you through. And for charging, there’s no need for cords—MagSafe inductive charging makes it simple. Just snap the watch onto the charger magnetically, and it’s sealed up tight without any exposed contacts. If you need help with any step, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s flip to the back of the case, where we uncover a snazzy composite cover featuring hard-coated, optical polymer lenses that safeguard a dazzling array of LEDs and photodiodes.

– Our heart rate sensor is crafted with care, utilizing a mix of infrared and visible-light sensors to keep tabs on your heart rate like a pro.

– On the opposite side of the Digital Crown, you’ll spot the microphone and speaker ports, ready to lend their audio magic.

– Unlike the sporty Apple Watch Sport, the back cases of the Apple Watch and the Apple Watch Edition flaunt a chic Zirconia ceramic cover adorned with sapphire lenses.

– Let’s start with something easy before we break out the heavy tools: remove the band.

– The Sport Band is made entirely of elastomer—no metal pins like you’d find in traditional watch bands.

– Manufactured in China!

– If you want to swap out your bands, it’s a quick process. Just a heads up: Apple recommends matching bands to their intended collection. So, no Link Bracelets on the Watch Sport, please.

– Tucked away in the Sport Band slot, there’s a sneaky little cover—think of it as a secret door.

– Zoom in on the side of your Apple Watch and you’ll spot the model number: A1553.

– No worries about those pesky external screws! We’re going to reattach the Sport Band for some extra grip and pull out an iOpener to dive right into the heart of this device.

– Skipping the usual opening tools, we’re going to give this display a serious push with our trusty Tech Knife.

– Now it’s time to bring in our opening pick and wrap things up. Fingers crossed this doesn’t turn into another one of Apple’s wild adventures!

– Gently lift the display, being ready for a tangle of cables—mainly the display and digitizer ones. Disconnecting the display can be tricky since those cables are tucked under a spring-loaded bracket (kind of like the Touch ID cover on an iPhone 5s). Our teardown pros know these tricks, so stay patient. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Houston, we’ve got ourselves a display panel that’s just begging to be removed. With that out of the way, let’s take a quick peek at two iconic Apple Watch features: the Taptic Engine and the Digital Crown. They’re just hanging out, waiting for their moment to shine.

– Even the humble Watch Sport isn’t immune to a little sparkle. You’ll notice a touch of gold here, probably an antenna wrapped in Apple’s signature gold finish. Classy, right?

– Let’s kick things off by comparing the internals of the Apple Watch to that of a timeless classic—an old-school mechanical watch.

– While we’re still talking about a watch, this second photo really shows how the tools needed for repairs have evolved over time.

– Which one of these will stand the test of time?

– You’ve probably already seen our trusty tools on the left: opening pick, tweezers, driver, and tech knife.

– On the right, we’ve got the tool with the Mickey Mouse ears—this is a pallet fork tool. Right next to it, you’ll spot a pin vise. Below that, a roller jewel shlacking tool…

– …and right beside that, tweezers! Some things just never change. (Though, our watchmaker likes to joke that it’s more of a ‘lazy man’s screw holder.’)

– As we approach the S1 SiP, we run into the tiniest tri-point screws you’ve ever seen—these little guys are micro in every sense. Don’t worry if your usual tools aren’t quite up to the task; sometimes, these tiny screws need a tweak or two to get out. It’s all part of the process. If you find yourself in a bind, remember, you can always schedule a repair for extra help. And fair warning—Apple probably didn’t sketch out repairability plans when designing this one, but that’s just more reason to stay patient and keep at it.

– Due to the snug fit inside the Apple Watch, the microphone ribbon cable is cleverly tucked away between the inner and outer layers of the case.

– Let’s get that Taptic Engine out of there! It’s snugly attached to the speaker, so we’ll need to give it a little nudge.

– The Taptic Engine and speaker are like best buddies. When they team up with the specially designed speaker driver, they create a delightful motion that adds a unique touch to your audio experience.

– The speaker features a tiny O-ring that helps keep water out—this little guy is all about that splash protection.

– For the tech specs crowd: IPX7 means your Apple Watch can chill under a meter of water for up to half an hour.

– But before you try turning your watch into a mini submarine, Apple suggests sticking to workouts, rain, and hand washing—full-on swim meets aren’t on the menu.

– Let’s gently pull out the antenna assembly, which is cleverly hidden away in the nooks and crannies of the case.

– Check out this tiny phone button – it’s like a miniature version of the ones you’d find on a full-sized iPhone! You’ll notice it’s connected to a button cable with a mechanical button.

– The small button even has its own miniature button cover and gasket, because attention to detail matters, even in the tiny things.

– Start by removing two tiny tri-point screws that secure a small panel to the watch case. Don’t blink, or you might miss them.

– Lift away the panel to reveal some mysterious contacts, perfectly matched up with the secretive diagnostic port hiding underneath.

– Carefully unplug the small connector—no need to get zapped by surprise.

– If that diagnostic port door still won’t budge, gently push it out from the inside using the small holes in the case. Sometimes, it just needs a little nudge.

– Take out the Digital Crown bracket—this is the last thing standing between you and the mighty S1 SiP.

– Now, gently lift the S1 out of its home. You’re basically holding the future in your hands.

– The back of the S1 isn’t exactly winning any beauty contests. Ribbon cables are heading off in every direction, and there’s a fair bit of sticky adhesive holding it down. Things might get a little messy.

– Get ready for a dramatic reveal—the S1 rises from the case like a tech monolith.

– Yanking out this bundle of chaos is definitely a one-way street—expect to break some soldered connections along the way. But hey, that’s how we finally get a peek at the S1!

– Our curiosity is met with a bit of a letdown: what looks like a shiny S1 cap is actually a solid chunk of resin, keeping all the goodies hidden out of sight.

– By the way: Chipworks confirmed this tiny chip is the STMicroelectronics C451, which packs both a gyroscope and an accelerometer.

– So, if you were dreaming of easy upgrades, this step makes it clear—that’s not really in the cards. Prying out the S1 is no walk in the park.

– The Digital Crown uses an encoder—think of it like the spinny magic behind a Nest Thermostat—to track your twists and turns.

– This encoder is teamed up with the button cable, which also includes the main push button and the diagnostic port connectors.

– At the bottom of the barrel watch case, we uncover the pulse-racing sensor action. And the lenses too, of course.

– Apple’s heart rate monitor is actually a plethysmograph — it works like a pulse oximeter, but Apple doesn’t claim it can measure your blood oxygen level. Why? Your guess is as good as ours.

– Inside the case, we also spot a magnet, designed to help the watch dock onto its inductive charger. Cool, right?

– We also find a coil of wire resting in the composite cover. We’re guessing this is the inductive charging coil, just chilling in there.

– Update: Chipworks has identified the Texas Instruments OPA2376 Precision Op Amp as part of the sensor package. It’s got low noise and low quiescent current. Fancy!

– Hold on tight! We’re not finished just yet.

– Apple’s inductive charger is quite the sensation, and we’re always eager to explore their latest adapters.

– Formally known as the Apple Watch Magnetic Charging Cable, it boasts a cradle that’s 6.7 mm thick and has a diameter of 28 mm.

– After applying some heat, we attempt to pry it open, but end up tearing the back case of the mag-safe-ish charger.

– And guess what? It’s packed to the brim with glue!

– Carefully cut away the housing to expose the little glue cake with its magnetic center. Once you’ve peeled back the weight, you’ll notice some markings—nothing too crazy, just what’s there. Keep going steadily, and if you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to help out.

– Salvation Repair gives the Apple Watch a repairability score of 5 out of 10 – it’s not the easiest, but we’ve got you covered!

– The watch band is a breeze to remove and swap out for a new one, so that’s the first hurdle cleared.

– Removing the screen is a bit of a challenge, but don’t worry, it’s doable – and it’s the first component to come out, making replacement a whole lot simpler.

– Once you’re inside, the battery is relatively easy to remove – just be gentle, as it’s held in place by some mild adhesive.

– Those tiny tri-point screws might be a bit of a pain, but they’re not a deal-breaker – just be patient and you’ll be golden. We wish they’d used Torx or Phillips, but that’s just the way it is!

– Unfortunately, removing any other component is pretty much impossible – all the peripheral cables are soldered onto the back of the S1, so it’s not looking good for DIY repairs.

– The fully encased S1 system makes board-level repairs a no-go, sadly. If you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry – you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.

– Hold onto your gadgets, folks! For a limited time, check out one teardown and snag another one on us—yes, completely free!

– Say hello to the real deal: the Stainless Steel Apple Watch.

– Fun fact: the standard Apple Watch comes in a totally different box compared to the Watch Sport. This clever design helps fit those funky bands that just can’t lay flat like the Sport Band.

– With our trusty pick technique dialed in, we lift the lid on the Apple Watch Stainless Steel.

– Inside, it’s the usual suspects: familiar clips and connectors waiting for us.

– Not a ton has shifted, but check out that beefed-up mounting bracket for the Digital Crown and those gold tri-point screws at the bottom.

– Want to see what’s hiding beneath the surface? Take a peek at our X-ray Teardown!

– Before diving into the repair, make sure to remove your watch from the charger and turn off your device. This keeps everything safe and ready for a smooth fix. If you hit a snag or need a pro touch, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Warm up your iOpener (or grab a hair dryer or heat gun) and get the face of the watch nice and toasty—just past the point where it’s comfy to touch.

– Keep the iOpener chilling on the watch for at least a minute to make sure the screen heats evenly and the adhesive underneath loosens up.

– Slide the curved part of your blade into the gap between the glass and the lower edge of the watch case, and press straight down with confidence.

– Once the glass pops up a bit, gently pivot the knife downward to widen the opening, easing the glass upward as you go.

– Once you’ve created enough of a gap, carefully slide the tip of an opening pick under the glass to get started.

– Gently move the pick along the bottom edge to loosen the adhesive holding the screen in place. Keep at it until the screen starts to lift away.

– Start by inserting a pick underneath the edge of the watch’s side button area. Gently pry it open, working your way around to loosen the adhesive and widen the gap. Keep it steady and patient—you’re just creating enough space to proceed with the next step. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Glide your pick around the top right corner, then smoothly slide it along the top edge of the screen.

– Keep that pick moving smoothly around the screen’s edge, gliding down the left side to slice through the last bit of sticky adhesive. You’re almost there!

– While keeping the first pick steady, grab a second one to ensure that all the adhesive has been released all around the edges of the screen.

– Gently lift the right side of the screen to loosen it from any lingering adhesive. Then, carefully pry up on the left side as well—but hold your horses, don’t try to peel the screen all the way off just yet, since it’s still connected by two cables. Take your time and work gently to avoid any damage. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Sometimes the top layer of the sensor likes to stick to the back of the screen. If that happens, gently press it back down and carefully separate them.

– Carefully lift the screen up and slide it to the left, being mindful of the display data and digitizer cables to avoid any damage.

– Set your watch on something a little taller—like a small box or the edge of a book—so the screen can dangle down. This gives you way better access to the battery and keeps things nice and easy.

– Grab some scissors and snip one of your opening picks down to about the width of the battery. Be sure to round off those sharp corners for safety!

– Slide that modified pick right between the battery’s right side and the case. It’s like a gentle nudge!

– Apply steady, consistent pressure to slowly lift the battery up, breaking free from the adhesive that’s holding it to the system board. Take your time!

– For the larger (42 mm) models, be careful not to accidentally pry up the system board lurking beneath the battery. Just insert the pick far enough to shimmy under the battery, not the system board.

– If things get sticky, feel free to dab a bit of high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) around and under the battery to help loosen that adhesive grip.

– Twist the battery gently to the left until its connector is revealed.

– Gently lift the battery to reveal the battery cable connector underneath.

– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and pry between the bottom of the case and the battery cable connector—pop that connector loose from the watch’s battery cable.

– Carefully take the battery out of the watch.

– Gently lift the screen up and tilt it to the right, revealing those hidden cables waiting for some attention.

– Grab your plastic opening tool and gently flip the bracket up and away from the speaker, like you’re opening a tiny treasure chest.

– Hold the bracket steady from the left side using your fingers or some handy tweezers.

– While you’re at it, gently slide a small (1 mm) flathead screwdriver under that tiny tab on the right.

– Finally, sneak a finger behind the tab, and give the bracket a good pinch between your finger and the screwdriver to pop that cover off.

– Use your tweezers to grab the cover and gently slide it upward along the watch. This will release the final slotted tab and allow you to lift off the cover. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.

– Gently pop up the display data and digitizer cables—think of it as unplugging a tiny, high-tech seatbelt.

– Lift off the display and set it aside like a VIP.

– Give your screen a little warmth to make it cozy! Start by powering down your device—just hold that crown and slide to turn it off. Now, grab a sharp blade and gently start at the bottom right corner. Lift the glass just enough to create a gap. Once you’ve got a nice little opening, switch to a plastic tool to carefully break the adhesive seal around the edges.

– When working your way around the edges with a knife and plastic tools, be gentle and don’t insert more than 1mm into the AMOLED. Remember, the force touch gasket is right underneath the glass and can be easily damaged if you apply too much pressure with a metal object. The FPC clip can be a bit finicky, but it’s a breeze to remove using sharp point tweezers on the battery edge. Take your time and you’ll be golden!

– Grab your trusty soldering iron with a tip that’s a bit bigger than those little solder pads. Crank that temperature up to 350°C – that’s the sweet spot! Now, hold off on adding any solder; let’s keep it simple and just use the heat along with some tweezers to gently lift those tabs. Once you’ve unsoldered everything, carefully move the flex cable out of your way. Now, with your tweezers in hand, take your time peeling back that proximity sensor from the AMOLED – and remember, gentle does it!

– Once you’ve desoldered, grab a trusty plastic spudger and gently work it into the area shown in the picture to release the adhesive that’s keeping the digi flex in place. A little warmth goes a long way, so applying a small amount of heat—around 150F—will help ease that adhesive grip. Now, fold that digi cable back just like you see in the second picture!

– Start by warming up the entire screen evenly—think of it as giving it a cozy blanket of warm air for about 10 minutes. I keep my heat gun set between 300°F and 350°F, holding it about 3 to 6 inches away to keep the temperature just right. Gently slip a business card under the screen on the dig flex side. Use some alcohol to loosen up the OCA tape bond, then slowly and carefully slide the card in—patience is key here.

– Gently slide the card in, adding a bit of alcohol as you go for a smooth ride. Keep that hot air aimed at the screen for an even heat. While holding the edges of the glass, rock the card back and forth until the AMOLED finally lets go.

– The AMOLED screen is super thin—think potato chip, not glass slipper—but tougher than it looks. Be gentle and keep some heat handy while you work your way around. For old OCA adhesive, use your finger to roll it off like you’re peeling tape from your favorite mixtape. A bit of pure isopropyl alcohol makes things even easier and won’t hurt the screen, even if it sneaks into the edges.

– Watch out for that sneaky force touch flex cable hanging out on the bottom left of the display when you’re taking off the display assembly from the frame. The force touch gasket is like a thin silicone hug that wraps around the entire edge of the watch. Before you dive into the next steps, give your AMOLED a little test after you’ve separated it. You’re doing great!

– Hang tight while I wrap up this guide! I’m just waiting for the arrival of the new digitizer/glass assembly, which is on its way from China. It might take a few days, but good things come to those who wait!