Month: August 2025

– Ready to dive beneath the shiny shell of the S8+? Let’s check out what’s packed inside this powerhouse:

– Big, beautiful 6.2-inch Super AMOLED display with curves for days and a crisp 2960 × 1440 resolution (529 ppi)

– Muscle under the hood: Qualcomm Snapdragon 835 or Samsung Exynos 8895, teamed up with 4 GB RAM

– Photo magic: 12-megapixel back camera with speedy dual pixel autofocus and 4K video skills; 8-megapixel front camera for your best selfie game

– Space for everything—64 GB built-in storage, plus room for a MicroSD card (up to 256 GB extra)

– Not afraid of a splash: IP68 water resistance rating

– Runs smooth on Android 7.0 Nougat

– At the bottom of your device, you’ll find the usual suspects: a headphone jack, USB-C connector, microphone port, and speaker grille—all where you’d expect them to be.

– The front face is super sleek and smooth. There’s no physical home button to fiddle with anymore; instead, it’s all tucked under the display, courtesy of a nifty pressure sensor. This makes the device feel totally seamless, like one solid piece.

– A quick heads-up for those of you who love to swap SIM cards like pros: there are two very similar openings on the top of the S8+. One is for the SIM eject tool, and the other holds a microphone. Trust us, you don’t want to mix those up, so keep your eye on which one is which!

– Let’s take a moment to compare a few things before diving into the nitty-gritty.

– When stacked up against last year’s models, the standout changes are the new flash assembly and the repositioned fingerprint reader.

– In this trio, we’ve got the S7 Edge on the left, the S8+ in the middle, and the S8 on the right.

– Thanks to its sleeker bezels and unique 18.5:9 aspect ratio, the S8+ fits a 6.2″ display into a form factor that’s almost identical to the 5.5″ S7 Edge.

– Enough waiting—let’s get a look inside. By now, we know what’s coming.

– A generous round with the iOpener heats things up, loosening the adhesive so we can pry up the rear glass and start making some progress.

– Almost there…

– This rear panel has a little twist—housing the fingerprint reader in the back with a short cable connecting it to the motherboard. Once the glass is out of the way and the cable is dispatched, you’ll see that the S8+ and S8 moved to a glass back, saving Samsung some engineering effort on antenna placement, but making repair a bit trickier. The cable is designed to come free easily—pull the rear panel gently, and the tiny connector pops right out, reducing damage risk compared to more stubborn sensors. Keep in mind, the more cracks and a tricky opening, the more careful you’ll need to be when working through this part. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Since the midframe is coming apart in chunks, this setup now looks pretty similar to the S7 and S7 Edge. This time around, the top antenna assembly is integrated with the NFC and wireless charging panel, just like on the Note7. Plus, the coil should also handle Samsung Pay functions by mimicking MST — probably using the coil as an electromagnet to act like a credit card strip on a reader. If you need a hand with any tricky parts, you can always schedule a repair.

– Fingers crossed that Samsung’s updated testing methods are the missing piece for the Note7, because this design feels pretty familiar to us.

– The S8+ packs a 13.48 Wh (3500 mAh at 3.85 V) battery—exactly the same size as the Note7, and just a tad smaller than the S7 Edge’s 13.86 Wh.

– Samsung is still ahead of Apple in the battery showdown, with the iPhone 7+ coming in at 11.1 Wh (2900 mAh at 3.82 V).

– And boy, is that adhesive a tough cookie to crack. Even after you’ve removed the battery, that glue can be a stubborn friend.

– Let’s carefully remove the action-packed motherboard and start taking off those cameras!

– The legendary ‘Hero’ Sony has made way for the sleek ‘Dream1’ Sony in the rear-facing/main camera. Despite the name change, it’s still rocking the same camera hardware as the S7/S7 Edge—just with some snazzy software updates from Samsung.

– Now, let’s move on to the front-facing camera and the fancy iris scanning camera, which you might remember from the Note7.

– Let’s take a peek at this motherboard’s silicon by pushing the cameras aside. Here’s what we found lurking underneath: the Samsung K3UH5H50MM-NGCJ 4 GB LPDDR4 RAM sitting right on top of the MSM8998 Snapdragon 835 processor, a Toshiba THGAF4G9N4LBAIR 64 GB UFS storage (that’s NAND flash plus a controller), and a Qualcomm Aqstic WCD9341 audio codec keeping the sound in check. We’ve also got a Skyworks SKY78160-11 front-end module with an LNA for signal boost, an Avago AFEM-9066 front-end module, a Qualcomm QET4100 envelope tracker for power management, and a Silicon Mitus SM5720 Interface PMIC to keep everything running smoothly. If you need help with this process, you can always schedule a repair.

– Flip it over and check out these cool parts:

– Qualcomm WTR5975 RF transceiver – handling all your radio signals.

– Murata KM7118064 Wi-Fi module – keeping you online.

– Avago AFEM-9053 front-end module – making sure your connections are crisp.

– Qualcomm PM8998 (similar to PMM8920) power management – keeping the power flowing just right.

– NXP PN80T NFC controller with a secure element – for those tap-to-pay moments.

– Renesas (formerly IDT) P9320S wireless charging receiver – powering up without the cables.

– Probably a Knowles MEMS microphone – so your voice comes through loud and clear.

– Let’s spot some key chips, round two:

– Qualcomm D5320—probably your high-band diversity IC

– MAX98506 from Maxim Integrated—pumping up the audio as your amplifier

– Qualcomm PM8005—working hard behind the scenes in power management

– MAX77838—another Maxim Integrated chip on power duty

– Samsung S2MPB02—making sure the camera gets its juice

– Samsung S2MM005X02—likely wrangling that USB power delivery

– Samsung S5475S2—probably the brains behind camera processing

– IC Identifications, pt. 3:

– Meet the NXP Semiconductor PCAL6524—your 24-bit I/O expander buddy.

– There’s probably an ON Semiconductor FPF3688UCX load switch hanging out here (odds are good).

– ON Semiconductor FAN48630UC35X 1.5 A synchronous regulator—keeping things powered up smoothly.

– Vishay DG2730: a 2-port, 480 Mbps DPDT USB 2.0 analog switch, ready for some speedy data moves.

– NXP Semiconductor NCX2200 comparator, always keeping an eye on those voltage levels.

– ON Semiconductor FXLA0104QFX 4-bit voltage translator, bridging voltages like a pro.

– Likely a few low/mid-band front-end modules making wireless magic happen.

– IC Identifications, pt. 4 (sensor squad):

– STMicroelectronics LSM6DSL—your go-to 3-axis accelerometer/gyroscope (probably!) for detecting flips, shakes, and spins.

– STMicroelectronics LPS22HB Pressure Sensor—keeping track of the air vibes.

– AKM Semiconductor AK09916C—handles the compass action with its 3-axis wizardry.

– Ablic (formerly Seiko Instruments) S-5712CCDL1-I4T1U Hall Effect Sensor (likely)—magnet sensing magic.

– Analog Devices (model mystery)—heart rate sensor, because your device cares about your pulse as much as you do!

– Out comes the I/O daughterboard! Check out all the clever waterproofing around here—the speaker grille is wrapped up snug, and there are little seals on the USB Type-C port and headphone jack, all working hard for that IP68 badge.

– The headphone jack is still keeping things modular, which is a win for repairs since it’s a part that sees a lot of action.

– You’ll also spot some antenna tuners on this daughterboard, plus what’s likely a Semtech SX9320 proximity sensor hanging out here.

– Take a quick look at the heat pipe and button cables—time to pull a few more pieces out of the chassis.

– Next up, out comes the trusty old vibrator motor.

– Don’t forget the sensor array (yep, that one with the moisture indicator)!

– Could be the RGB LED (most likely).

– That IR emitter—probably for the iris scanning camera.

– And last but not least, we’ve got the AMS TMD4906 rangefinder/color sensor module, possibly for dimming the screen during calls.

– We’re on the quest for the elusive home not-button, so let’s get into the display—even if it’s been a bit dramatic before.

– The fused display and digitizer actually come up from the frame with a solid amount of effort, but hey, no broken parts here.

– Hoping for some secret sauce beneath the display cables, we peel them back and… nothing. No model numbers, no hidden sensors. Maybe next time!

– Samsung S6E3HA6 display driver spotted.

– STMicroelectronics fingertip touchscreen controller found.

– Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8Mb serial NOR flash memory hanging out here too.

– That wraps up the S8+ teardown! If you’re curious about the regular Galaxy S8, check out our breakdown of that one.

– And now, let’s hand out a score for this phone.

– Alright, here comes the fun part—time to slice through the glue holding the back cover.

– From the outside, you’ll be working in the zones highlighted here:

– Thick glue? That’s where you’ll need a little more elbow grease.

– Thin glue? Easy breezy—just glide on through.

– Heads up: steer clear of this spot! There’s a fingerprint sensor cable hiding underneath, so no poking or slicing there.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back cover, right near that freshly warmed edge.

– Give the suction cup a gentle pull to pop up the left side of the back cover, just enough to sneak a peek between the cover and the frame.

– Slide a pick or a thin plastic opening tool into the gap to gently pry it open.

– Keep slicing through the adhesive along the bottom edge of the phone, and don’t forget—leaving your opening pick in place might make things easier. Grab another pick for the next step to keep things smooth sailing. If you need a hand at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

– Work your way through the rest of the sticky stuff on the top edge and right side—almost there!

– Gently pry the back cover up from the left edge and give it a little wiggle to open it up just a bit.

– Gently use the spudger’s point to lift and detach the fingerprint sensor flex cable. Take it easy, and remember—it’s all part of the repair journey!

– As you put things back together, get that back cover into position so the fingerprint sensor cable is ready to line up with its socket.

– Take your trusty spudger and press the connector straight down until it clicks in place—no wild moves needed, just a gentle snap!

– First things first, let’s get that back cover off! It’s time to reveal the inner workings of your device.

– Ready to put on a shiny new back cover? Here’s how to do it:

– If you’re reinstalling the back cover or using one without pre-installed adhesive, just follow this handy guide.

– Oh, and if you need to move the camera bezel to your new part, no worries! Just check out our camera bezel replacement guide.

– Grab some tweezers and gently peel away any leftover adhesive from the phone’s chassis. Then, give those adhesion areas a good clean with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth to get them ready for the new adhesive.

– Now, peel off the adhesive backing from the new rear glass, carefully align one edge with the phone chassis, and press it down firmly. You’ve got this!

– Grab your iOpener and give that rear camera bezel at the top of the back glass a cozy two-minute session. Let it soak in the warmth.

– If your phone’s playing hard to get, just reheat and reapply the iOpener until things get toasty. Make sure you follow the iOpener instructions so you don’t end up with a hot potato situation.

– Slide an opening pick under the top edge of the rear camera bezel—like you’re sneaking a slice of cake out of the fridge.

– Glide the pick around the bezel’s edges to loosen the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear glass. Take it slow; no need for a wrestling match.

– Hands off the side next to the fingerprint sensor—give that spot some space!

– Grab an opening pick and gently pry the camera bezel away from the rear glass—think of it as giving the phone a friendly nudge.

– Stuck on some stubborn adhesive? Use your pick to carefully cut through it, making the job smoother.

– Once the adhesive is loosened, lift off the camera bezel — easy does it.

– Watch out for the fingerprint cable — make sure you don’t catch it on the bezel as you lift it away. Nice and steady wins the race.

– Grab those tweezers and lift away the leftover adhesive from the rear camera bezel—think of it as tidying up before a big event.

– Take a spudger and gently scrape off any stubborn bits of adhesive clinging to the rear glass where the camera bezel sits.

– Time for a cleaning session: use high-strength isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth to wipe the adhesion area. Always swipe in one direction—it’s like brushing your hair, not a wild dance party. This gets the surface ready for fresh adhesive.

– Cut some tape to the right size so it fits perfectly along the edges of the camera bezel. If you’re unsure, go with a narrower strip than you think you’ll need – better safe than sorry!

– Use your tweezers to carefully place the tape onto the metal surface of the bezel, focusing on the side where the camera lens cover sticks out.

– Try to cover as much of the metal surface as you can with the tape. Just make sure to avoid getting any on the plastic or glass areas – keep it clean!

– Grab your tweezers and carefully peel off all the adhesive backing from the rear camera bezel. Take it slow—think of it like unwrapping a tiny present for your phone.

– Put your device back together by reversing the steps above.

– Once you’re done, check out our guide to make sure everything’s working as it should.

– If you’ve got old parts, drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Ran into a hiccup? Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips.

– If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Sweep away every last bit of sticky gunk and crumbs from the frame—your phone deserves a fresh start! Grab some high-octane isopropyl alcohol (90% or above), give the adhesion area a good scrub, then wipe it down with a lint-free cloth so it’s squeaky clean.

– Lay out the adhesive strips like puzzle pieces to see where each one fits. No surprises here!

– Peel away the clear plastic backing from the big pre-cut adhesive strip, revealing the sticky side. It’s showtime for your masterpiece.

– Gently line up one edge of the adhesive with the phone frame—think of it like a puzzle piece, just waiting to fit!

– Once you’ve got that edge in place, lightly set the adhesive down on the frame, like it’s settling in for a nice nap.

– Now, with a little finesse, use your fingers to press the adhesive into place. It should feel snug, but not too tight.

– If it’s not looking quite right, don’t worry—just peel it back up slowly and try again. You’ve got this!

– Grab one of the end adhesive strips and peel it away from the clear backing—like you’re unwrapping a secret snack.

– Hold the strip by those green tabs and match it up with the frame, like you’re lining up the perfect selfie.

– Gently lay the adhesive onto the phone. Double-check that all those little cutouts are lining up where they should.

– Once things look straight, press the adhesive down with your fingers to lock it in place.

– Repeat all that for the other adhesive strip and you’re good to go.

– Ready to wrap things up? Just hop on over to the Galaxy S8+ screen replacement guide by following this link! If you find yourself in a pickle, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help.

– Grab an iOpener and gently warm up the back of your phone along the left edge for about two minutes. This helps loosen up the adhesive holding the back cover in place, making it easier to get inside.

– Time to slice through the sticky stuff holding down the back cover—grab your tool and get ready.

– From the outside, you’ll be working your way around the areas shown:

– Thick bands of adhesive—these will need a bit more elbow grease.

– Thin strips of adhesive—you’ll breeze right through these.

– Steer clear of this area so you don’t mess with the fingerprint sensor cable hiding underneath.

– Start by attaching a suction cup to the back cover, aiming for the heated edge for the best grip.

– Gently lift the left edge of the back cover with the suction cup, creating just enough space between the cover and the frame.

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap to get things started. Keep it steady and work your way around to loosen the parts. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide your opening pick down the left side of the phone to loosen up that adhesive and free the back cover. Take your time—sticky stuff ahead!

– Keep slicing along the bottom edge of the phone to cut through the adhesive. It might help to leave the opening pick in place for now and grab another one to continue with the next step.

– Carefully slice through any leftover adhesive along the top and right sides. Steady hands win the day!

– Gently lift the back cover from the left edge and give it a little nudge to open it up just a bit.

– Take a spudger and gently pop up the fingerprint sensor flex cable—think of it like opening a stubborn bag of chips, but with way cooler tech.

– When you’re putting things back together, angle the back cover so the fingerprint sensor cable is ready to party right over its socket.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and press the connector straight down until it clicks into place—nice and easy!

– First things first, let’s get that back cover off! It’s time to reveal the inner workings of your device.

– Ready to put on a shiny new back cover? Here’s how to do it:

– If you’re reinstalling the back cover or using one without pre-installed adhesive, just follow this handy guide.

– Oh, and if you need to move the camera bezel to your new part, no worries! Check out our camera bezel replacement guide for that.

– Grab some tweezers and gently peel away any leftover adhesive from the phone’s chassis. Then, give those adhesion areas a good clean with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth to get them ready for the new adhesive.

– Now, peel off the adhesive backing from the new rear glass, align one edge with the phone chassis, and press it down firmly. You’ve got this!

– Take out the eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws securing the wireless charging coil and antenna setup. It’s like a tiny hardware treasure hunt—just count them out as you go.

– If a screw acts stubborn even after you’ve loosened it all the way, go ahead and grab it with tweezers. Sometimes they just need a little extra nudge!

– Gently lift the plastic around the edges with a spudger to release the clips. Take your time—patience pays off.

– Lift out the wireless charging coil and antenna assembly. When putting it back, slide the top edge into the frame first, then press down on the rest until it snaps in place.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the battery connector straight up from its socket—like you’re lifting a tiny trapdoor. Easy does it!

– Drop 1-2 drops of high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol under each corner of the battery and let it soak in for a few minutes to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Or, you can give your battery a warm hug with a freshly heated iOpener right behind it for two minutes to help melt the adhesive. Feel free to reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed!

– Slip a couple of opening picks or a trusty plastic card along the edge of the battery—think of it as giving the battery a polite nudge.

– With steady, gentle pressure, coax the battery up and out of its spot. Take your time and let it know it’s moving to better things!

– Time to put everything back together—just retrace your steps in reverse order.

– Give your new battery a boost by calibrating it once you’re done. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Time to get creative with some gentle prying — we’re slicing through the adhesive that holds the back cover in place. Keep it smooth and steady!

– From the outside, you’ll be cutting along the adhesive in the zones shown here: think of it as following a map of where the glue likes to hide.

– Thick patches of adhesive are the hearty ones, the tough cookies. Take your time here to make sure you get through them without fuss.

– In those thinner, more delicate spots, gentle cuts are the way to go. We want to loosen the grip without causing any collateral damage.

– And a quick heads-up: steer clear of prying or slicing near the fingerprint sensor flex cable to keep everything working smoothly. Protect that sensitive area!

– Grab a suction cup and stick it to the back cover, right near that warmed-up edge.

– Gently lift the left side of the back cover with your suction cup, creating a tiny gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap like you’re slicing into a cake—just a little wiggle to get things started.

– Take your opening pick and cruise down the left side of the phone, slicing through that sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep working your way along the bottom edge, slicing through that stubborn adhesive.

– It’s handy to leave your opening pick in place and grab a fresh one for the next move.

– Carefully slide along the top edge and right side to break up any stubborn adhesive still hanging on.

– Gently pry the back cover up from the left edge and swing it open just a tad.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the fingerprint sensor flex cable to disconnect it. Keep it steady and work carefully—you’re almost there! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Start by removing the back cover. To install a new back cover, follow these steps. If you’re reattaching the back cover or installing one without pre-applied adhesive, just follow this guide. Sometimes, you might need to transfer the camera bezel to your new part—check out our camera bezel replacement guide if that’s the case. Use tweezers to gently peel away any leftover adhesive from the phone’s chassis, then clean the area with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to get the surface ready for fresh adhesive. Finally, peel the backing off your new rear glass, carefully align one edge with the chassis, and press firmly to set it in place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Swapping out the rear glass? Time to give your fingerprint sensor a new home! Here’s how you do it:

– Warm up your iOpener and let it work its magic on the fingerprint sensor to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Gently press from the outside of the glass panel until the sensor pops free from its adhesive grip.

– If your fingerprint sensor adhesive is still holding strong, feel free to give it a second chance! But if it’s seen better days, it’s time to say goodbye to the old adhesive and bring in the new.

– Once you’ve bid farewell to the old adhesive, grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and give the edges of the fingerprint sensor a good clean. After that, it’s time to stick on the new adhesive like a pro!