Month: August 2025

– So, your phone’s got a built-in bouncer for its USB-C port—it checks for any sketchy resistance between two pins when you plug in the charger. If there’s too much water hanging out in there, the phone throws a warning (or an audio beep) and slams the door shut on charging.

– The moisture check happens the moment you plug in your charger. So, if you’ve just been caught in the rain or your phone took a dip, keep this in mind.

– Salt water or anything with chlorine is basically the arch-nemesis of your connector. If your port gets hit, do NOT try to charge it. Clean and dry that thing like it’s your job before you plug it in again. That little bit of effort could totally save your connector—and your phone.

– Let’s tackle this issue together:

– 1. Grab some compressed air and give the connector a gentle puff to clear out any pesky liquid or loose debris. If you don’t have that, a straw works wonders too—just blow directly into the connector!

– 2. Time for a little cleaning! Dampen a tiny strip of paper towel with clean water and carefully drop a bit of water into the connector. Then, use those paper towel strips to soak it up again.

– 3. Patience is key! Let the connector dry for about 6 hours before charging. Feel free to use your phone during this time, just keep it unplugged.

– If you’re in a pinch and need to charge urgently, wireless charging (S9+) is your friend!

– Keep in mind that the charge cable connector might be harboring some salt or rust. A gentle clean as mentioned above will help prevent any transfer to your phone, which could cause the same issue again.

– If you spot any fabric fibers hanging out inside the connector, you can carefully remove them with a needle by scraping the bottom. Using a magnifying glass can make this task a breeze!

– A wet connector means no charging, so let’s keep those electronics dry and happy! If you’re still having trouble, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help.

– The S9+ is packing some serious specs and a variety of aperture sizes. Here’s the scoop:

– Notchless 6.2″ AMOLED Display with a stunning resolution of 2960 × 1440 (~530 ppi)

– Qualcomm Snapdragon 845 or Samsung’s own Exynos 9810, depending on where you are in the world

– 12 MP OIS dual-aperture main camera—switch between f/1.5 and f/2.4 modes—plus a 12 MP OIS secondary camera and an 8 MP selfie cam for those perfect shots

– Headphone jack and microSD slot for all your audio and storage needs

– IP68 water and dust-proofing rating, so it can handle a little adventure

– Running on Android 8.0 Oreo for a smooth experience

– Samsung’s keeping it classy with a notch-free look and impressively slim bezels, standing out among a crowd of iPhone-inspired designs.

– Flip it over, and while the iPhone X’s camera bump grabs attention, the S9+ goes for a wider sensor layout that’s a little more chaotic in appearance.

– On display: S9+ rocking the left side, iPhone X showing off its ‘bezel-less’ notch game on the right.

– Glass backs are all the rage for wireless charging—awesome for convenience, but not so forgiving if you’re prone to drops.

– Back in the day, swapping the iPhone 4S’s glass back was a breeze in under two minutes; with these newer models, don’t expect an easy swap.

– Before getting started, let’s give a shoutout to our friends at Creative Electron for some high-energy recon to kick things off.

– Aside from a shiny new dual camera and a few minor component shuffles, everything here looks pretty much the same as the last time around. No surprises!

– While it’s not quite the S4, the S9 still offers a welcome break from some of the more recent, tricky teardowns. A little heat and a plastic opening tool go a long way, but be prepared—it’s not exactly a smooth ride! Thanks to some experience (and a bit of luck), we can safely disconnect the sensor assembly cable without drama. Remember, detailed documentation makes everything easier. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– After braving the tricky process of opening up the phone, we make our grand entrance to the back.

– Next stop: the rear camera, where we get to check out the slick new dual aperture setup.

– Most cameras use at least five blades to keep the aperture nice and round as it shifts through different f-stops. This Galaxy switches things up with just two rotating, ring-shaped blades for a quick adjustment.

– First up, the relocated fingerprint sensor. It’s held in place with a sticky ring that keeps it safe from spills—time to gently pry it free.

– Pro tip: that fingerprint sensor cable loves to hide in glue under the back cover. Watch out, or you’ll end up with a sticky situation. Maybe next time Samsung will give us a break!

– After removing fifteen screws, the midframe pops out like a seasoned pro, bringing along the wireless charging coil, antenna assembly, and lower speaker for the ride.

– To loosen a glued-down battery in a Galaxy phone, you have a couple of options. First, you can carefully apply some heat with a heat gun or a specialized tool, then gently pry the battery free using a plastic pry tool—just be ready with a fire extinguisher, a bucket of sand, and nerves of steel. Alternatively, for a gentler approach, load a syringe with some Adhesive Remover and carefully apply it around the edges to dissolve the glue. Keep in mind, Samsung often uses a sticky black webbing on top of their batteries—no clear idea why, but if you’ve got insights, shout out! If you need help with this process, you can always schedule a repair to get it done professionally.

– Let’s set the motherboard free: just remove two screws and pop off a couple FPC connectors with your trusty spudger.

– Surprise! The display cable is sneakily threaded through a narrow opening in the chassis and locked onto the motherboard, as if clinging for dear life…

– Motherboard: officially liberated.

– …But if you’ve checked out any Galaxy teardowns lately, you probably saw this move coming.

– Samsung, we get the reasoning, but surely you can give us a display that’s easier to disconnect and swap out—without prying off a glued cover. Challenge accepted?

– Even though we’ve got dual image sensors, this double camera is actually a single unit, all snug on one PCB with just one connector!

– The S9+ camera lineup is now a total of four—along with the shiny new dual main camera, we’ve got the selfie and iris cameras joining the party.

– This time around, it looks like the camera series is dubbed ‘Star’, a fun twist from last year’s ‘Dream’ cameras.

– Our pals at TechInsights took a peek inside the camera modules, and guess what? There are chips hiding in there! Samsung boasts that their integrated DRAM lets the camera handle up to four times more image data. How about some 960 FPS slow-mo action?

– The headphone jack makes a handy comeback here. Its gasket keeps your phone protected, and since it’s modular, replacing it is a straightforward, budget-friendly task if needed. Next, we grab the versatile daughterboard assembly, which includes coaxial cables, microphone, USB-C port, and plenty of spring contacts—think of it as the control center of the device. Then, we move on to the second speaker—the earpiece—which now also functions as a loudspeaker, giving you that nice stereo or even ‘surround sound’ experience that modern phones can deliver. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Lay out that motherboard and take a look! On Side A, you’ll spot all the main players:

– Samsung K3UH6H60AM-NGCJ LPDDR4X 6 GB DRAM sitting on top of the Qualcomm Snapdragon 845

– Toshiba THGAF4G9N4LBAIR 64 GB UFS (NAND flash plus controller)

– Avago AFEM-9096 front end module

– Qualcomm Aqstic™ WCD9341 audio codec

– Maxim Integrated MAX77705F PMIC

– Qualcomm QET4100 envelope tracker

– Maxim MAX98512 audio amplifier

– Side B packs a punch with all the components that didn’t make it onto Side A. Here’s what you’ll find: the Murata KM7N16048 Wi-Fi/Bluetooth module, the NXP PN80T NFC controller, the Qualcomm PM845 (probably a PMIC), the Qualcomm SDR845 RF transceiver, the Skyworks SKY78160-11 WLAN front-end module, the Qualcomm PM8005 power management IC, and the Skyworks SKY13716-1 low band front-end module. Take your time to identify and handle each part carefully—these are the key players in keeping your device connected and powered up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– IC Identification, pt. 2:

– Meet the Qualcomm QDM3870—your high-band diversity front-end module, keeping things speedy.

– The Qualcomm D5319 is here for your mid-band diversity duties.

– RDA Microelectronics RDA6213N FM transceiver—probably the one making your tunes play.

– Samsung S2MPB02—camera’s power boss.

– Samsung S2DOS05—display’s power manager.

– Samsung S2MPB03—camera power management, part two.

– Renesas (used to be IDT) P9320S—your wireless charging receiver.

– IC Identification, pt.3:

– Meet the NXP PCAL6524—your 24-bit I/O expander for all those extra signals.

– Here’s the ON Semiconductor FPF3688UCX, running the show as a load switch.

– Spot the Texas Instruments boost converter (very likely), kicking voltage up a notch.

– Another ON Semiconductor star: FAN48618BUC53X 1A boost regulator for a bit of extra power.

– Vishay DG2730: 2-port, 480 Mbps USB 2.0 DPDT analog switch—keeping your connections snappy.

– Richtek RT8010GQW 1A step-down DC-DC converter, dropping voltage like it’s hot.

– Texas Instruments TPS7A05 200mA LDO regulator, smoothing things out at the end.

– Sensor Showdown, pt. 4:

– Meet the STMicroelectronics LSM6DSL – your phone’s motion maestro, handling all things accelerometer and gyroscope.

– Say hi to the AKM Semiconductor AK09916C, the compass that keeps your directions on point.

– Next up: STMicroelectronics LPS22HB. This pressure sensor is the air whisperer, keeping tabs on altitude.

– Heart rate sensor – your phone’s personal fitness coach.

– Ablic S-5712CCDL1-I4T1U hall sensor is here for magnetic moves.

– And the Semtech SX9320 proximity sensor (probably) – keeping your screen off when your face is up close.

– Getting into the display teardown is a bit of a tug-of-war—lots of heat and patience needed. The glue can be stubborn, so instead of fighting it with a bunch of iOpeners, grab a heat gun to warm things up and make the process smoother. When replacing a broken screen, it’s a bit of a marathon, but with steady effort, you’ll get there. The display cable, made by Samsung and often labeled ‘Star’, combines both the display and digitizer in a sealed unit, so handle it carefully. You’ll also find two final chips attached to the display: the Samsung S6SY761X touch controller, which you might recognize from the S8 series, and the Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8 Mb serial NOR flash. If at any point you need a hand or want to get the job done professionally, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Time to get up close and personal with the biometrics!

– On the left, we’ve got the trusty S9+ hardware: iris scanner, front-facing camera, IR emitter, and proximity sensor (probably that AMS TMD4906). Looks like a familiar face from last year, doesn’t it?

– On the right, meet the heart of Apple’s notch: Face ID hardware. This includes a front-facing camera, IR dot projector, IR camera, plus space for the flood illuminator and rangefinder, all tucked neatly into the display.

– Some assembly required—don’t worry, it’s nothing you can’t handle.

– Early reviews are in, and it seems like Samsung might’ve gotten a little too excited about Animoji without a hardware refresh to keep up. But hey, we all get a little ahead of ourselves sometimes.

– All done! Check out the Galaxy S9+ parts you’ve just uncovered. If you hit a snag or want a pro touch, you can always schedule a repair.

– Get ready to slice through the sticky stuff holding on the back cover.

– Aim for the adhesive spots shown below:

– Where it’s thick, you’ll need a bit more muscle.

– Thin areas—easy does it.

– Steer clear of this zone so you don’t mess with the fingerprint sensor flex cable.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back cover to get things popping.

– Gently lift the bottom edge of the back cover with your suction cup, creating a tiny gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap and carefully work it down to the bottom right corner.

– Grab a second pick and cruise over to the bottom left corner—slide it right in.

– Pop a third pick at the bottom of your phone and let it hang out there while you work. It’ll keep the adhesive from pulling a sneaky reseal move on you.

– Take your opening pick and slide it from the bottom left corner up along the side of your S9 Plus like you’re buttering toast.

– Pause halfway up the left side once you’ve sliced through the sticky stuff, and let your pick chill there for a bit.

– Now, repeat the move on the bottom right corner—slide your pick halfway up that side too, and leave it hanging out there.

– Place a fourth opening pick on the right side of the frame and gently slide it up toward the top right corner. Then, run a fifth opening pick along the left edge of the phone all the way to the top left corner. Use the picks to carefully cut through the remaining adhesive beneath the upper part of the rear glass. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift up the rear glass on the side where the volume buttons hang out. No need to rush—let’s treat it like a first date.

– Grab a spudger and pop up the fingerprint sensor flex cable. It’s just a little connection, nothing wild.

– Seal the deal with your new back cover using some pre-cut adhesive or double-sided tape—it’s like giving your device a warm hug!

– Now, let’s put everything back together by retracing your steps—it’s like a fun little dance in reverse!

– Once the rear cover is on, give your phone a little TLC by applying firm, steady pressure for a few minutes. You can even stack some heavy books on top to help the adhesive bond like best friends!

– And just like that, you’re done! Follow this guide to test your repair and make sure everything is working smoothly. If you run into any hiccups, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!

– First things first, let’s power down your phone. Safety first, right? Now, grab your trusty iOpener and get ready to work some magic! Place it on the back of your device to loosen up that stubborn adhesive hiding beneath the rear glass. Give it a good two minutes to work its charm. If you’re feeling adventurous, don’t hesitate to repeat this step a few times to make the back cover removal a breeze!

– Now, it’s time to carefully cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Think of it as peeling away the layers—smooth and steady wins the race.

– Follow these zones where the adhesive is lurking:

– Thick patches of glue that want to keep your device sealed tight.

– Sparser, thin spots where the adhesive is a little more forgiving.

– Keep your prying tools away from the fingerprint sensor flex cable—it’s delicate and doesn’t want to be sliced or pried in this area.

– Stick your suction cup onto the back cover—give it a good press so it grabs hold.

– Gently pull up on the bottom edge of the back cover with your suction cup until you see a tiny gap between the cover and the frame—don’t rush it!

– Slide an opening pick into that gap and cruise it over to the bottom right corner.

– Grab another opening pick and slide it down to the bottom left corner—like playing a smooth game of phone Tetris.

– Pop in a third pick at the bottom edge and leave it hanging out there. That’s your trusty sidekick preventing the adhesive from sneakily sticking itself back together while you work on removing the rear glass.

– Gently start to slide the tip of your opening pick from the bottom left corner, tracing along the side of the S9 Plus. Keep the pick in place once you’ve sliced halfway up the left edge of the phone’s adhesive. Then, glide the opening pick from the bottom right corner up to the middle of the frame and leave it there—you’re making progress! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a fourth opening pick and let it cruise along the right edge of the frame all the way up to the top right corner.

– Take a fifth pick, slide it up the left side of the phone, and park it at the top left corner.

– Work your pick under the upper section of the rear glass to slice through the last bits of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift up the side of the rear glass where the volume button hangs out—no need to rush, just a smooth move.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its edge to pop up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor flex cable. Nice and easy does it!

– Start by carefully removing the rear glass panel. Once it’s off, follow this guide to reapply the adhesive and put the rear glass back in place smoothly. If you’re thinking about replacing the rear glass entirely, this guide will also walk you through transferring the rear camera bezel along with the fingerprint sensor. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair for extra help.

– Unscrew those nine 4 mm Phillips #00 screws and set them aside.

– Slip an opening pick gently under the right side of the plastic cover that hides the NFC antenna and charging coil.

– Turn the pick sideways to lift the cover free from its plastic clips.

– Carefully work your way around the cover, prying upward to release the remaining clips and free the piece.

– Gently lift off the plastic cover that’s holding the NFC antenna and charging coil in place. It’s a quick move to make sure everything’s set for the next steps!

– Power down your phone—let it take a little nap before we dive in.

– Grab an iOpener and let it work its magic on the adhesive under the back glass. Keep it on for about two minutes. Don’t worry if you need to repeat it a couple of times to get the back cover off—sometimes the glue just likes to stick around!

– Get ready to tackle that back cover! In the next steps, we’ll be cutting through the adhesive that’s holding it in place.

– Here’s where you’ll want to focus your slicing:

– The thick adhesive spots

– The thinner adhesive areas

– Just a friendly reminder: steer clear of prying or slicing in this zone to keep the fingerprint sensor flex cable safe and sound!

– Pop in a second opening pick and slide it toward the bottom left corner. It’s like creating a little path for the next step.

– Now, grab a third opening pick and insert it at the bottom end of the phone. This pick stays in place during the rear glass removal to keep that sticky adhesive from making things harder than they need to be.

– Begin by gently sliding the tip of the opening pick from the bottom left corner along the side of your S9 Plus. Take your time, it’s like giving your phone a little massage!

– Once you’ve cut through the adhesive halfway up the left side, leave that opening pick right where it is. It’s doing a great job holding the fort!

– Now, slide the opening pick from the bottom right corner halfway up the frame and let it chill there. You’re making great progress!

– Place the fourth opening pick on the right side of the frame, and gently slide it towards the top right corner. Take your time, you got this!

– Now grab your fifth opening pick and slide it along the left side of the phone, making your way to the top left corner. Easy does it!

– Use the opening pick to carefully cut through the remaining adhesive near the upper part of the rear glass. Keep it steady and smooth for a clean break.

– Gently lift up the side of the rear glass where the volume button hangs out—no need for brute force, just a little finesse.

– Grab your trusty spudger and slide the edge under to pop up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor flex cable, nice and easy.

– Start by carefully removing the rear glass panel. When it’s time to put everything back together, follow this guide to apply new adhesive and reattach the rear glass smoothly. If you’re thinking about swapping out the rear glass, this guide will also walk you through transferring the rear camera bezel and the fingerprint sensor. For tricky parts, remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Start by removing the nine 4 mm Phillips #00 screws to get the show on the road. Keep those screws safe—you’ll need them later. If you need extra hands, just schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to make things smooth sailing.

– Slide an opening pick under the right side of the plastic cover that holds the NFC antenna and charging coil.

– Turn the pick sideways to gently lift the cover out of its plastic clips.

– Carefully work your way around the cover, prying up to release all remaining clips and free the part.

– Pop off that plastic cover that’s hiding the NFC antenna and charging coil. It’s like unveiling the secret layer in your phone—just lift it off and you’re one step closer to victory!

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the battery flex cable—like giving your phone a little wake-up nudge!

– Start by unscrewing the two 4 mm Phillips #00 screws. Keep them safe—they’ll need to go back in later. If you run into any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with us to get it done right.

– Gently pop off that plastic cover from the motherboard—no need to wrestle with it, just a smooth move and you’re good to go.

– Time to get those five 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws out of there! Grab your trusty screwdriver and let’s make them disappear.

– Slide your opening pick under the top edge of the loudspeaker assembly—think of it as giving the speaker a gentle nudge.

– Carefully lift up the loudspeaker assembly with the pick, like you’re opening a stubborn snack bag. Take it slow; you’ve got this!

– Take out the loudspeaker assembly—just ease it out, like you’re pulling the plug on a quiet party.

– Unscrew the 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screw and keep it safe—you’ll need it later!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and disconnect the headphone jack flex cable. You’ve got this!

– Time to put your device back together! Just follow these steps in reverse. Don’t forget to add some fresh adhesive where needed after giving those areas a good clean with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

– When you’re reassembling, make sure to secure that fingerprint sensor with some pre-cut adhesive or double-sided tape. It’s a small step that makes a big difference!

– Got some e-waste? Be a hero and take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Once you’ve wrapped up the repair, check out this guide to test your handiwork.

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, no worries! Try some basic troubleshooting, or feel free to reach out to our Answers community for a helping hand.