Month: August 2025

– Curious about what makes the S10e stand out from the S10? Let’s dig into the specs and find out! We’ll look at the display sizes—5.8″ Super AMOLED Infinity-O on the S10e versus 6.1″ on the S10—along with the processors, cameras, and fingerprint sensors. The S10e features a side-mounted fingerprint button, while the S10 sports an ultrasonic sensor tucked under the screen. Plus, we’ll check out the headphone jack, microSD slot, and water resistance ratings. Exploring these differences helps us understand what’s behind the design choices. If you need a hand with anything more involved, you can always schedule a repair.

– At first glance, these smartphones might seem pretty mysterious with their sleek, monolithic designs. But take a closer look at the S10 and S10+—you’ll find those cool curved display edges waiting to be admired!

– Turning these devices around reveals a fascinating feature: while all of them come equipped with wide-angle and ultra-wide cameras, the S10 and S10+ have a little extra flair with their telephoto camera.

– While we might feel like we’ve time-traveled back to the 1800s when gazing at these phones, Creative Electron has got our back with their cutting-edge X-ray photos that unveil all the secrets hidden beneath the surface.

– Check this out: the S10+ sports a thick ceramic back cover that makes it much less transparent to X-rays compared to its glassy counterparts. In other words, it shows up much darker on X-ray scans!

– The S10e and S10 may look like twins, but the S10e rocks a chunky power button that moonlights as a fingerprint sensor.

– The S10 is a bit mysterious—you won’t spot its fingerprint sensor unless you bust out the teardown skills.

– Both models are still rocking headphone jacks, plus matching USB-C, mic, and speaker ports. Classic moves.

– Up top, you’ll catch your first real-life look at those hole-punch displays, already sporting their screen protectors.

– A shiny new phone may come with a shiny new way to open it… or maybe not! We’re back to warming things up and putting our trusty iSclack to work.

– As we peel the backs off our phones, we’re on the lookout for traps. Not today, Admiral Ackbar! The panels pop off with ease.

– Just when things start to cool down, we spot some clever heat-dissipating graphite pads snugly placed on the back covers. Looks like something’s built to handle the heat without singeing your fingers.

– And wait, is it just us, or is the adhesive playing nice this time around?

– Just a few standard Phillips screws stand between us and the exciting parts! Our Marlin driver set has got your back, and thankfully Samsung has kept it simple with just one driver for this step.

– These midframe assemblies come with their own special feature: they can now wirelessly charge other gadgets too!

– That’s likely why the coils are snugly nestled between two layers of graphite this year—a wireless charger that can both send and receive will create a lot more heat.

– Samsung’s headphone jacks are compact—just 12 mm tall and 8 mm wide—and completely standalone. We love a good modular part! Too bad there’s no space for one in iPhones or iPads.

– We’ll dive into cameras soon, but first, let’s move those selfie cams aside so we can free the motherboard.

– Our teardown pro pulls off a smooth, perfectly coordinated motherboard lift…

– …or do they? Stay tuned!

– Peeking under the motherboard reveals some pretty interesting bits. First off, that big copper heat pipe sitting beneath the board is definitely beefier than the one in the S9—it’s more like the one from the Note9. Next, we carefully peel away a multi-layer thermal interface material from the board. That wide copper surface helps with heat transfer, but since it’s soft metal, a flexible interface layer helps fill in gaps and keeps everything running cool and smooth. We also notice a thin sticker that looks like it provides RF shielding, especially since there’s a large hole in the can lid underneath—showing a PMIC and a pink thermal pad. To sum it up: fast charging and reverse wireless charging crank up the thermal stress on the system, and Samsung has gone all out with cooling measures to keep things in check. If you want to get more hands-on, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Start by carefully removing the main camera array from the board. It’s housed in a yellow plastic frame—probably ABS or nylon in its natural hue, giving it a slightly retro vibe, but that’s part of the charm. Next, set each camera array aside near its corresponding selfie camera—left for the main, right for the selfie. For the Galaxy S10, note that the left array has an extra camera: a 12 MP telephoto with ƒ/2.4 aperture and OIS, connected on the same connector as the standard wide-angle. The 12 MP wide-angle cameras also feature OIS and the dual-aperture setup from the S9+. Lastly, the 16 MP ultra-wide modules, with ƒ/2.2, are a bit bulkier with thicker plastic frames. Want to see what’s happening inside? An X-ray view reveals the telephoto camera’s sensor and OIS electromagnets. If you need help with the more intense teardown steps, you can always schedule a repair.

– Alright, let’s dive right into the heart of the matter—those chips! On the top side of our motherboards (S10e on top, S10 at the bottom), here’s what we’ve got:

– S10e: THGAF8T0T43BAIR 128 GB Toshiba UFS NAND flash storage

– S10: KLUFG8R1EM-B0C1 512 GB Samsung eUFS NAND flash storage

– Samsung K3UH7H70AM-AGCL LPDDR4X sitting proudly above the Qualcomm Snapdragon 855 SoC

– Qualcomm WCD9341 audio codec making sure your tunes sound great

– Qorvo QM78062, probably a snazzy RF Fusion front-end module

– Maxim MAX77705C PMIC keeping everything powered up

– Skyworks SKY78160-51 Low Noise Amplifier, because noise is so last season

– Samsung really went all out this time, adding even more tech magic to the flip sides:

– Murata KM8D03042 (your likely Wi-Fi/Bluetooth buddy)

– Qualcomm SDR8150 RF Transceiver (the communication wizard)

– Qualcomm PM8150 Power Management (keeping the power flow just right)

– IDT P9320S wireless power receiver (your wireless charging friend)

– Qorvo QM78062 Power Amplifier Module (likely boosting those signals)

– NXP PN80T NFC controller w/ Secure Element (for those tap-to-pay moments)

– Qualcomm QDM3870 RF front end module (laying the groundwork for great connectivity)

– We’ve checked out the big-ticket components—now let’s give a shout-out to the unsung heroes playing backstage:

– Cirrus Logic CS35L40 audio amplifier

– Qualcomm QET5100 envelope tracker

– Skyworks SKY13716-11 low-band LNA front-end module

– Probably a Samsung S2DOS05 display power management IC

– Probably a Samsung S2MPB02 camera power management IC

– STMicroelectronics STM32G071EBY6 32-Bit Arm Cortex-M0+ microcontroller with 128 Kb flash memory

– NXP Semiconductor BGU8103 GPS/GLONASS/Galileo/COMPASS low noise amplifier

– And now, for the grand finale:

– STMicroelectronics LPS22HH pressure sensor

– STMicroelectronics LSM6DSO accelerometer

– Samsung S2MIS01 MST driver

– Most likely a Diodes Incorporated AH1897T Hall Effect sensor

– Vishay DG2730 USB 2.0 DPDT analog switch

– NXP Semiconductor NCX2200 low voltage comparator

– RDA Microelectronics RDA6213N FM transceiver (probably)

– Time to tackle those batteries! Both are stuck down tight to their metal midframes—no easy pull tabs here.

– No stress—we’ll use some adhesive remover and let it do its thing while the glue chills out.

– The S10e packs an 11.94 Wh battery, while the S10 steps it up with 13.09 Wh (that’s a 13% bump from last year’s 11.55 Wh).

– Just for comparison, the iPhone XR runs on 11.16 Wh, and the XS has 10.13 Wh.

– Alright, we’re going in! Removing these ultra-thin displays is always a gamble, but we like living dangerously. Once inside the S10, you’ll spot the fancy ultrasonic fingerprint reader.

– Cool tech, but don’t get too attached—the sensor is stubborn and not likely to survive an extraction. We threw everything short of a kitchen sink at it, and it’s still holding on for dear life.

– Other chips you’ll see:

– Qualcomm QBT2000 Ultrasonic Fingerprint Sensor Controller

– If the fingerprint sensor ever throws a tantrum, just know that a new screen might cost you a small fortune. If things get dicey, you can always schedule a repair.

– Samsung S6SY771X Touchscreen Controller

– Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8 Mb Serial Flash Memory

– Removing the flat display on the S10e isn’t exactly a walk in the park, but it’s a bit less intimidating than tackling the curved S10 screen. Heads up—these displays probably won’t be winning any Fortnite tournaments after this. The S10e doesn’t have that fancy ultrasonic tech glued on the back, but it’s got its own familiar feature: a capacitive touch sensor built right into the power button. Just a heads-up: this repair means peeling the entire screen off to get to the button—kind of a full-on display removal mission. The touch controller IC inside is the same one used in last year’s S9s and previous Galaxy models, so it’s a familiar face in the repair world. And that serial flash memory? It’s a GigaDevice GD25LH40C 4 Megabit chip, sitting quietly, waiting to be handled. If you need a hand with any of this, you can always schedule a repair.

– These ultra-slim Samsung displays don’t just look cool—they also help keep things chill inside your phone with layers of copper and graphite working together to whisk away heat from those busy components.

– See that camera hole? That’s no accident! It’s laser-zapped out, pixel by pixel, carving a perfect tunnel right through the midframe and motherboard straight to the camera. Science, but make it snazzy.

– Now, the hidden sensors—proximity and fingerprint—are even sneakier. They peek straight through the OLED screen, making for a wild edge-to-edge look. You won’t notice them during regular use, but with the screen popped off, they’re suddenly playing peekaboo.

– We went all-in and took apart two phones just for you—here’s the highlights if you’re short on time:

– But that’s not all! If you’re feeling extra curious, check out our third teardown: we’ve got a video walkthrough of the S10+.

– Now let’s see how these phones stack up with their repair scores.

– Big batteries inside, but they’re stuck down with glue and swapping them isn’t a breeze.

– These phones can wirelessly charge other devices, but heads up—it generates a lot of heat and could be tough on your battery in the long run.

– The screens are cool and packed with tech, but replacing them will still hit your wallet and patience hard—especially now that the fingerprint sensor’s moved. If this step looks impossible, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop open your settings app—it’s where the magic happens!

– Head over to the ‘Advanced Features’ section—it’s usually hanging out right there in your settings, just waiting for you to tap it.

– Tap that Bixby key like you mean it!

– Flip the switch for ‘Single press to open Bixby’ to turn on ‘Use double press,’ then tap on the text to confirm. Easy peasy! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Next, go ahead and tap on ‘Open App’ to get things rolling!

– Give that ‘Flashlight’ button a tap, or pick any other feature that catches your eye.

– Power down your phone before you get started—let’s not have any unexpected surprises.

– Grab your iOpener and heat up the right edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Get ready to dive in! In the upcoming steps, we’re going to slice through the adhesive that’s holding the back cover in place.

– From the outside of your phone, you’ll be making your way through the adhesive in the areas we’ve highlighted for you.

– The adhesive is a bit more chill on the right side of the phone, just under the Bixby button, so that’s where you want to start!

– Attach a suction cup to the back cover, aiming for the heated edge near the Bixby button where the adhesive is at its weakest. Let’s get that cover off with a little finesse!

– Prop up the warm edge of your phone on something that’s about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick. This nifty angle will make it a breeze to slide in that opening tool.

– Use your suction cup to gently lift the right edge of the back cover, creating a little gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Now, slide the edge of your opening tool into that gap.

– It might take a bit of muscle! If you’re struggling, don’t hesitate to apply a little more heat to soften that adhesive, and give it another go. Just a heads up, the adhesive cools off quickly, so you might need to warm it up a few times.

– Gently slide the opening tool along the right edge of your phone to carefully cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Take it slow—you’ve got this!

– Slide an opening pick along the edge, right next to the opening tool. Let it hang out there to stop the glue from sticking back together while you keep working.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the top edge of your phone a cozy two-minute hug.

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently insert it at the top right corner of your device. Slide it around the corner and across the top edge like you’re tracing a smile!

– Keep that opening pick in place to keep the adhesive from staging a comeback. You’ve got this!

– Warm up the left edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Slide a new opening pick into the top left corner and gently glide it down the left edge of your phone. You’re doing great!

– Keep that opening pick snugly in place along the left edge to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. Nice work!

– Heat things up by placing a warmed iOpener along the bottom edge of your phone for about two minutes.

– Grab an opening pick, sneak it into a bottom corner of your phone, and glide it smoothly along the bottom edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Grab those opening picks and gently wiggle them to lift the back cover. Take your time, we want to keep things smooth!

– Once you’ve got it, go ahead and remove the back cover like a pro.

– If you feel any stubbornness, just pause for a moment. Use an opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Time to grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out those eight 3.9 mm screws holding the upper midframe in place. Let’s make it rain screws—just keep them somewhere safe!

– Gently slide an opening pick into the bottom right corner of the upper midframe to break free the adhesive that’s binding it to the lower midframe. Take your time and be careful—you’re doing great!

– Let’s kick things off! Slide the point of your spudger into that nifty little cutout on the right edge of the plastic upper midframe, just a stone’s throw from the Bixby button.

– Now, using that same trusty spudger, give the midframe a gentle pry to lift it away from the phone’s chassis. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the midframe using the plastic section and slide it out of the phone. To put it back, start by hooking the top edge of the assembly into the phone’s frame, then carefully press down on the rest of the assembly until it clicks into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Place a heated iOpener on the top half of the midframe and hold it there for about a minute. This gentle warmth helps loosen things up, making the rest of the disassembly smoother. If you need a hand with the process, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take your opening tool and gently lift the wireless charging coil’s contact pad away from the midframe—no need to rush, just a smooth move!

– Gently lift the wireless charging coil off the midframe—no need to rush, just take it slow and steady.

– Gently pull the wireless charging coil’s contact pad out of its midframe slot to loosen it up.

– Take out the wireless charging coil carefully.

– When you’re putting things back together, use some double-sided Tesa tape to stick the contact pad onto the midframe—it helps keep everything in place.

– Compare your new replacement part with the original—sometimes you need to transfer bits or peel off adhesive backing on the new part before it’s ready to go.

– Make sure your phone is powered all the way down before getting started—trust me, it’s less dramatic that way.

– Warm up your iOpener and give the right edge of the back cover a good two-minute spa treatment. This helps loosen up the sticky stuff holding everything together.

– Next up, you’ll be working your magic to slice through the sticky stuff holding the back cover in place.

– From the outside, aim for the highlighted zones—those are your adhesive targets.

– Pro tip: The right side, just below the Bixby button, has the skinniest layer of adhesive.

– Stick that suction cup onto the back cover, right up near the heated edge—aim for just below the Bixby button, where the glue is at its weakest. You’ve got this!

– Prop up the heated edge of your phone on something about half an inch (13 mm) thick. This gives you a nice angle to sneak in your opening tool.

– Use your suction cup to lift up the right edge of the back cover, just enough to create a little gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide the edge of your opening tool into that gap like you’re slicing into a stubborn avocado.

– It might take some muscle! If it’s being difficult, reheat the area to loosen up the adhesive—don’t be shy, it cools off quickly and might need a second (or third) round.

– Glide your opening tool along the right side of the phone to gently cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Gently insert an opening pick into the edge next to the opening tool. Keep the pick in place to stop the glue from sticking back together as you work.

– Warm up the top edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Let the heat work its magic before moving on.

– Slide an opening pick into the top right corner of your phone, then gently glide it around the corner and along the top edge. You’re doing great!

– Keep that opening pick snugly in place to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. You’re almost there!

– Warm up the left edge of your phone for about two minutes using a heated iOpener—think of it as giving your device a quick spa treatment before you get hands-on.

– Pop a new opening pick into the top left corner and slide it smoothly down the left side of your phone—like you’re buttering toast, but with more tech.

– Let that pick chill on the left edge so the sticky stuff doesn’t try to make a comeback.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your phone.

– Grab an opening pick and slide it along the bottom edge of your phone, starting at one of the corners. This will loosen up that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.

– Grab your trusty opening picks and gently get under the back cover – treat it like a secret treasure waiting to be uncovered!

– Carefully lift off the back cover once you’re in – it’s like peeling off a surprise layer of a gift!

– If you feel any stubborn resistance, pause for a moment and use an opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive that’s playing hard to get.

– Take out the eight 3.9 mm Phillips screws holding the upper midframe to your phone. Keep those screws somewhere safe—they love to wander off!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the upper midframe and loosen up that sticky adhesive bonding it to the lower midframe. Take it slow—no need to rush this part!

– Begin by slipping the tip of a spudger into the small notch on the right edge of the upper midframe’s plastic section, just near the Bixby button. Gently leverage the spudger to lift the midframe away from the phone chassis. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the midframe using the plastic section and carefully take it out of the phone. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put it back together, start by inserting the top edge of the assembly into the phone’s frame. Then, with a little love, press down on the rest of the assembly until it clicks into place. Easy peasy!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery connector and lift it straight up to disconnect it. Nice and easy—no rush!

– Grab your Phillips driver and get ready to unscrew those seven 3.9mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently insert the tip of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the loudspeaker. Carefully pry upward with the spudger to lift and loosen the speaker.

– Gently lift the loudspeaker out and set it aside.

– When putting things back together, press around the edges of the loudspeaker until it clicks into place.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the screen connector free from its spot on the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!

– Flip your phone over so the screen is staring right back at you.

– Warm up the right edge of the display with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as a spa day for your phone.

– Look for the display seam—it’s the one above that slim plastic bezel. That’s your VIP entrance for prying the screen loose.

– Avoid the frame seam! It’s hanging out below the bezel, and poking at it will only annoy the plastic. Stick to the display seam for smooth sailing.

– Stick a suction cup onto the heated edge of the display—think of it as a little grabber for your screen.

– Gently pull up on that suction cup with steady, confident force to create a small gap.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the seam between the display and the frame—think of it as gently prying it open like a book.

– Gently glide that opening pick along the right edge to cut through the sticky stuff holding your device together.

– Once you’re in there, keep the opening pick in the corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t seal up on you again.

– Warm up the bottom edge of the display by applying a heated iOpener for about a minute. This helps loosen things up and makes the next steps smoother. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide an opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive, like you’re opening a treasure chest. Keep the pick in the corner to prevent the adhesive from sealing back up, so your next move stays smooth. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Work your magic again: heat and slice along each of the other display edges. Take it one side at a time, and keep that patience strong!

– Gently lift the display glass and set it aside like royalty—your screen’s grand exit is complete.

– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the OLED panel for about a minute. This will help loosen the adhesive and make the next steps way smoother.

– Gently lift the display panel from the right side and ease it away from the frame. Take your time and let it peel off like a sticker—nice and smooth!

– Carefully guide the display panel connector through the frame like you’re threading a needle—steady hands win the day!

– Ready to put everything back together? Just retrace your steps in reverse order.

– Got old parts or gadgets? Drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give them a second life.

– Once you’re done, check out our guide to make sure your repair is working smoothly.

– If your device is still being stubborn, try some basic troubleshooting, or chat with our Answers community for advice. If you need backup, you can always schedule a repair with us!