Samsung Galaxy S10e Headphone Jack Replacement

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 26 Steps

This step-by-step guide walks you through removing and swapping out the headphone jack on your Samsung Galaxy S10e. If you’re experiencing flaky audio or connection issues with your wired headphones, give the jack a good clean first—sometimes a little dirt or lint is all that’s causing the trouble—before diving into a replacement. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S10e Headphone Jack Replacement

You can warm things up with a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—just don’t get carried away! Too much heat can mess with the OLED display or the battery, and no one wants a toasted phone.

Cracking open your phone’s case will break its waterproof mojo. So, either have fresh adhesive on standby, or keep your phone away from water if you’re reassembling without it.

The iOpener might need a few rounds in the microwave to get your phone toasty enough. Stick to the iOpener instructions to avoid turning it into a mini volcano.

– Power down your phone before getting started—no one likes a surprise buzz in the middle of a repair.

– Warm up an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone’s back for about two minutes. That heat helps loosen the sticky stuff holding the cover on.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

Check out how the adhesive is arranged in the first image—the inside of the cover, post-removal, is rocking that sticky lineup.

– In these next steps, you’ll gently slice through the adhesive holding the back cover in place, so be patient and steady.

– From the outside of the phone, carefully cut along the highlighted areas where the adhesive is securing the cover.

– The adhesive is thinnest just on the right side of the phone, just below the Bixby button—pay extra attention there for a smooth separation.

Step 3

The suction cup might struggle to grip the curved edges of the glass, so steer clear of placing it right on the very edge. If the back cover has a crack, the suction cup might not hold tight. In that case, try lifting it with some strong tape or glue the suction cup in place with superglue and let it cure—then you’re all set to move forward.

– Stick a suction cup on the back cover, right up near the heated edge, just below the Bixby button—this is where the adhesive is at its weakest. Get ready to make that glass pop!

Step 4

Be gentle! The rear glass is a bit delicate and can shatter if you apply too much pressure or try to pry it open with metal tools.

If you’re teaming up with an iOpener, stick to the heating directions—otherwise, you might end up with a gel explosion, and that’s a mess nobody wants.

– Prop up the heated edge of the phone on something about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick to tilt it just right—making it easier to slide in the opening tool. Then, grab your suction cup and gently lift the right edge of the back cover to create a small gap between the cover and frame. Carefully insert your opening tool into that gap. Be prepared to apply a bit of elbow grease—if it’s stubborn, give the area a quick blast of heat to soften the adhesive further, then try again. Remember, the adhesive cools quickly, so reheating may be necessary. If you need a hand with this, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

– Glide your opening tool down the right side of the phone, slicing through the sticky stuff holding the back cover in place.

Step 6

– Gently slide in an opening pick into the edge right next to the opening tool. Keep the pick there to stop any leftover glue from sneaking back together. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 7

– Place the heated iOpener on the top edge of your phone and let it sit for two minutes. It’s like giving your device a little warm-up before the big fix!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 8

The area that’s glued is a bit bigger this time, so make sure to slide your pick in a little deeper to get the phone separated.

– Slide an opening pick into the top right corner of the phone and gently work it around the corner and along the top edge.

– Keep that opening pick in place so the adhesive doesn’t decide to stick again.

Step 9

– Warm up the left edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for a solid two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 10

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the top left corner, then cruise along the left edge like you own the place.

– Keep that pick hanging out on the left edge—it stops the sticky stuff from coming back together. Sticky situations avoided!

Step 11

– Warm up the bottom edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for about two minutes to loosen things up.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 12

There’s more adhesive to tackle in this spot, so slide your pick in a bit deeper to break it up completely.

– Start by slipping in an opening pick near a bottom corner of the phone. Then, gently slide it along the bottom edge to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the device together.

Step 13

– Grab your opening picks and gently work around the edges to pop off that back cover. Go easy now!

– Once the cover is free, lift it off and revel in your achievement.

– If you run into any sticky spots, pause for a moment, whip out your trusty opening pick, and slice through any stubborn adhesive before continuing.

Step 14

If you want, you can snap the back cover on without fussing over new adhesive. Just clear away any big leftover sticky bits so the cover sits nicely. Once it’s in place, a little heat and gentle pressure will help it stay put. It won’t keep water out, but the old adhesive usually holds strong enough for daily use.

Power up your phone and make sure everything’s working before you commit to new adhesive and seal it up.

– Follow this step-by-step to reattach the back cover and stick down the new adhesive. Keep it friendly and straightforward—you’re almost there! If you hit a snag or need a pro touch, just schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for extra help.

Step 15

– Unscrew the eight 3.9 mm Phillips screws holding the upper midframe in place. Take your time—these little guys love to hide, but you’ve got them covered!

Step 16

– Gently slide an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the upper midframe to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding it to the lower midframe. Take your time—no need to rush!

Step 17

– Slip the tip of your spudger into the little notch on the right side of the upper midframe—it’s hanging out near the Bixby button.

– Gently pop the midframe up from the phone’s body using the spudger. Easy does it!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Grab the midframe by the plastic section and lift it out—like you’re picking up a slice of pizza, but less cheesy.

– When putting it back, slide the top edge into the frame first, then gently press down on the rest until it clicks into place. Easy does it!

Step 19

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the battery connector straight up from its socket to give it a little break from the circuit.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 20

– Grab your trusty Phillips driver and get ready to unscrew! It’s time to take out the seven 3.9 mm screws that are holding your loudspeaker in place. Let’s do this!

Step 21

– Slide the pointed end of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the loudspeaker. Think of it as gently wedging your way in.

– Carefully leverage the spudger to lift and loosen the loudspeaker, like giving it a friendly nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to come out.’

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 22

– Gently lift out the loudspeaker—like you’re plucking a prize from a claw machine.

– When you’re ready to put it back, press around the edges until you hear that satisfying snap.

Step 23

– Gently wiggle your spudger under the headphone jack connector and pop it free from the motherboard socket.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 24

A loose headphone jack might give way and pop out unexpectedly. No worries—just keep it steady and avoid jostling. If you need a hand or want to get it fixed properly, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Slide the tip of your spudger into the headphone jack port like you’re sneaking snacks into a movie.

– Give the spudger a confident lift until you feel the headphone jack pop loose from the frame—no sweat!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 25

– Take out the headphone jack—give it a gentle wiggle if needed, and set it aside for later.

Step 26

– Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse.

– Once you’re done with the repair, give your device a little test run using this guide to make sure everything’s working smoothly.

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, no worries! Try some basic troubleshooting, or if you’re feeling stuck, feel free to schedule a repair for some expert help.

Success!

Now that you’ve reassembled your device, just retrace your steps to make sure everything’s snug and in place.

Once you’re done with the repair, follow this guide to check if everything’s working as it should.

Something didn’t go quite as planned? No worries—try some quick troubleshooting, or if you’re feeling stuck, feel free to schedule a repair.

Samsung Galaxy S10e Fingerprint Sensor Replacement

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 43 Steps

This is a detailed process that involves removing the screen, which will unfortunately mean you’ll need a new one afterward. Make sure you’ve got a spare screen ready before diving in. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Ready to swap out the fingerprint sensor on your Galaxy S10e? Heads up: this job means saying goodbye to your current screen, since it has to come off (and it won’t survive the process). Only dive in if you’ve got a fresh screen waiting in the wings. Take it slow, keep your cool, and you’ll get it done. If things start looking wild, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S10e Fingerprint Sensor Replacement

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can help, but keep an eye on the temperature—both the OLED display and the internal battery are heat-sensitive. A little warmth is fine, but too much could lead to some serious damage! Always proceed with caution.

Opening your phone means waving goodbye to those waterproof seals—so make sure you’ve got some replacement adhesive on hand before diving in! If you decide to put it back together without it, just be super careful around water.

Don’t be surprised if you have to bring out the iOpener a couple of times to really warm things up! Just remember to follow the instructions carefully to steer clear of any overheating mishaps.

– Power down your phone completely before getting started. Trust us, it’ll make things easier!

– Warm up an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone’s back for about two minutes. This helps loosen up that stubborn adhesive holding the cover in place.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

The adhesive pattern is laid out just like in the first image, showing the inside of the cover after removal. Keep this visual in mind as you proceed with your repair journey.

– Time to slice through that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover in place. Grab your tool—think of it as a butter knife but way cooler.

– You’ll be gliding along the highlighted zones, just like tracing a secret map from the outside of your phone.

– Heads up: the adhesive is at its skinniest on the right side, right under the Bixby button—so that’s your easiest spot to start!

Step 3

– Grab a suction cup and stick it on the back cover, as close to that warm edge as you can get, right under the Bixby button where the adhesive likes to take a little vacation.

The suction cup might struggle to get a good seal on the curved parts of the glass, so steer clear of the very edges. If the back cover has cracks, the suction cup might not stick well—try using a strong piece of tape to lift it, or carefully glue the suction cup in place and let it cure before moving on. Need extra help? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 4

Be careful not to use too much force or metal tools when working with the rear glass, as it can break easily. Keep it cool and gentle, and you’ll be just fine!

Using an iOpener? Heat it up just right—too hot and your gel pack could pop like a party balloon.

– Tilt your phone gently by propping up its heated edge on something about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick — this makes slipping in the opening tool way easier. Grab your suction cup and lift the right edge of the back cover, creating a tiny gap between the cover and the frame. Wiggle an opening tool into that gap, applying steady pressure — and don’t worry if it takes a bit of force. If it’s stubborn, give it some more heat to loosen the adhesive, then try again. Remember, the adhesive cools fast, so reheating might be necessary if resistance persists. If you need a hand, schedule a repair.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

– Glide your opening tool along the right edge of the phone to gently break through the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

Step 6

– Slide an opening pick into the gap next to the opening tool. Keep the pick in place to stop that pesky glue from sticking back together.

Step 7

– Pop a heated iOpener on the top edge of your phone and let it chill for about two minutes. This will help loosen up things a bit before we dive in!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 8

The glued section here is a bit more extensive, so make sure to slide your pick in deeper to break that seal and free your device.

– Slide an opening pick into the top right corner of your phone and gently maneuver it around the corner and along the top edge. You’re doing great!

– Keep that opening pick in place to stop the adhesive from making a comeback. You’ve got this!

Step 9

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the left edge of your phone a cozy two-minute hug.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 10

– Grab a fresh opening pick and sneak it into the top left corner, then cruise along the left edge of your phone.

– Let that pick chill in the left edge to keep the sticky stuff from closing back up on you.

Step 11

– Gently press a heated iOpener against the bottom edge of the phone and hold it there for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up, making the next steps smoother. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 12

Since this glued area is a bit more extensive, you’ll want to slide your pick in deeper to completely split the phone apart. You’ve got this!

– Grab your opening pick and slide it into a bottom corner of the phone, then cruise along the bottom edge to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

Step 13

– Grab your opening picks and gently work around the edges to loosen the back cover—no need to rush, just vibe with it.

– Lift off the back cover once it’s free. Nice and easy!

– If the cover puts up a fight, pause for a sec and use an opening pick to slice through any stubborn adhesive. Patience wins this round.

Step 14

Feel free to pop the back cover back on without swapping out the adhesive! Just make sure to clear away any big bits of adhesive that might keep the back cover from sitting flat. Once it’s all set, warm up that back cover and give it a little love with some pressure to secure it in place. It might not be waterproof, but that leftover adhesive is typically strong enough to do the trick.

Before sealing everything up with fresh adhesive, don’t forget to power on your phone and give your repair a test run. Better safe than sorry!

– Pop that back cover into place and swap out the adhesive—almost like giving your device a fresh new outfit.

Step 15

– Loosen and remove the eight 3.9 mm Phillips screws holding down the upper midframe to free it up. If you need assistance along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 16

– Slide an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the upper midframe and work your way around—you’re just convincing that stubborn adhesive to let go of the lower midframe.

Step 17

– Grab your spudger and aim for the little notch on the right side of the upper midframe, right by the Bixby button—like finding the secret snack stash.

– Gently coax the midframe up from the phone’s body using the spudger. It’s a bit like popping the lid off a stubborn jar, but way more satisfying.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Grab the midframe by its plastic bit and lift it out of your phone like a pro.

– When you’re ready to put it back, line up the top edge with the frame first, then press down gently to snap everything back together. Easy does it!

Step 19

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the battery connector. Give it a little nudge upwards to pop it right out of its socket and you’ve got it disconnected!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 20

– Grab your trusty Phillips driver and get ready to unscrew! Carefully take out those seven 3.9 mm screws that are keeping the loudspeaker in place. You’ve got this!

Step 21

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger into the little notch on the right side of the loudspeaker.

– Give it a little pry with the spudger to help loosen that loudspeaker up!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 22

– Gently lift the loudspeaker out of its spot and set it aside. When you’re ready to put everything back, press around the edges of the loudspeaker until it clicks into place. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

Step 23

When reconnecting these press connectors, line it up, then gently press down one side until it clicks, followed by the other side. Skip pushing down the middle—those pins are delicate and don’t like surprises. A misaligned connector can bend pins, and that’s a one-way ticket to permanent damage.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the screen connector from its socket on the motherboard. Easy does it—just a steady, careful lift to disconnect.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 24

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the fingerprint sensor connector from its cozy spot on the motherboard. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 25

– Grab your Phillips driver and take out the two 4 mm screws holding the fingerprint sensor bracket in place. Easy does it!

Step 26

– Warm up the fingerprint sensor bracket with a heated iOpener for about a minute. This helps loosen that stubborn adhesive, making your next step smoother sailing.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 27

That fingerprint sensor bracket isn’t going anywhere without a fight, thanks to some super-strong adhesive.

If that pesky bracket is still playing hard to get, warm it up a bit more and give it another go!

– Gently use your tweezers to lift up the fingerprint sensor bracket—easy does it!

– Take out the fingerprint sensor bracket and set it aside.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 28

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pry the fingerprint sensor cable away from its sticky home on the adhesive gasket. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 29

While you’re waiting, keep an eye out for these seams:

You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up, but take it easy—too much heat can annoy your phone’s battery. Nobody wants a grumpy battery.

– Place the phone face up, so the display is looking right at you.

– Warm up the right edge of the screen with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Spot the display seam—it’s the line just above the skinny plastic bezel. This is your go-to area for prying the display loose.

– Watch out for the frame seam—that one’s below the bezel. Don’t pry there, or the plastic bezel will have a bad day.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 30

Gently slide the opening pick into the seam right above the plastic bezel — think of it as giving your device a friendly nudge to start the separation. If you get stuck or want a pro hand, you can always schedule a repair.

If your device is a seasoned veteran, this part can be a bit stubborn. Hit it with some more heat and give it another shot!

– Stick your suction cup on the warmed-up edge of the screen—give it a good press so it grabs hold.

– Pull up on the suction cup with steady confidence until you see a small gap start to form.

– Slide the tip of your opening pick right into that gap like a pro.

Step 31

– Glide the opening pick along the right side to break up that stubborn adhesive.

– Let the pick chill in the corner—this keeps the adhesive from making a comeback.

Step 32

– Warm up the bottom edge of the screen with a heated iOpener for about a minute—give it a little spa treatment before moving on.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 33

– Slide a plastic opening pick carefully along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the device together.

– Keep the opening pick in the corner once you’ve started to prevent the adhesive from sealing back up.

Step 34

– Work your way around the rest of the display, giving each side a warm-up and a gentle slice. Keep going until you’ve got it free!

Step 35

The OLED screen usually has a snug seal with the glass panel. But once it gets a whiff of fresh air, it may throw in the towel and stop working!

– Gently lift up the display glass and set it aside like you’re handling a piece of precious art.

Step 36

– Warm up the OLED panel gently with a heated iOpener for about a minute to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. This helps make the next steps smoother and safer.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 37

– Gently lift the display panel starting from the right edge, and smoothly peel it away from the frame like opening a perfectly wrapped present.

Step 38

Stuck? If the display panel cable is giving you grief, snipping it is an option to help get that display off.

– Slide the display panel connector through the frame, like threading a needle—smooth moves only!

Step 39

– Start by carefully removing the display panel. If you’re working with a custom-cut adhesive, follow this guide to remove the old glue and prep the surface for the new one. When using Tesa tape to stick the screen back on, just follow this guide for a smooth reattachment. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

Step 40

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the fingerprint cable cover. Give it a little pry to pop it off the frame.

– Now, go ahead and lift that fingerprint cable cover right off!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 41

– Take your spudger and nudge the fingerprint sensor cable out of its frame cutout—nice and easy, like you’re threading spaghetti through a straw.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 42

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift out the power button support bracket from its cozy little spot.

– When you’re putting it back, make sure those indents are pointing away from the button, and the center tab is looking up—like it’s ready for action.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 43

– Ready to put your device back together? Just follow these steps in reverse.

– Don’t trash those old parts—take them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and keep our planet happy.

– Once you’re done, check out our guide to make sure everything works perfectly.

– If things didn’t go as planned, try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for advice.

– Still stuck or want a pro to handle it? You can always schedule a repair with us.

Success!

Ready to put everything back together? Just work your way back through the steps!

Got old parts or busted gear? Drop them off with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler for responsible disposal.

Once you’re done, check out our testing guide to make sure your device is running smooth.

If things didn’t go exactly as planned, give basic troubleshooting a try, or get some advice from our Answers community.

Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair and let us handle it!

Samsung Galaxy S10e Back Cover Replacement

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 14 Steps

Follow this guide to expertly detach or swap out the glass back cover on your Samsung Galaxy S10e. You got this!

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S10e Back Cover Replacement

– First things first, let’s power down your phone completely before diving into this repair adventure!

– Grab your trusty iOpener and warm up the back of your phone along the right edge for about two minutes. This little trick will help loosen up the adhesive holding that back cover in place.

Got a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate? Those can do the trick for loosening things up—just keep it cool, literally. Too much heat can bother the OLED screen or the battery, so don’t get carried away!

Opening up your phone will break its waterproof seal, so have some replacement adhesive on hand before you start. If you’re reassembling without new adhesive, just be extra careful to keep liquids out. You might need to warm up the iOpener a few times to get the right heat—just follow the instructions to avoid overheating and keep things safe.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

The adhesive pattern is laid out just like in the first image, which shows the inside of the cover after removal. Keep an eye on this so you know exactly how it’s placed before you proceed.

– Ready to get sticky with it? In these next steps, you’ll be working your way through the glue that’s keeping the back cover locked down.

– From the outside, you’ll be slicing along the highlighted zones—think of them as your adhesive obstacle course.

– Pro tip: The adhesive is thinnest on the right side, just below the Bixby button, so that’s your easiest entry point.

Step 3

– Stick a suction cup onto the back cover, getting as close to the heated edge as you can—aim for the spot just under the Bixby button, since that’s where the adhesive is on the shy side.

The suction cup might struggle to stick on the curved edges of the glass, so steer clear of pressing it right at the very edge. If the back cover is cracked, the suction cup may not hold well—try using some strong tape to lift it, or glue the suction cup in place and let it cure fully before moving on. If you need a hand with this step, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 4

The rear glass is delicate—go gentle and steer clear of metal tools, or you might end up with a crack instead of a fix.

When using an iOpener, stick to the heating instructions to keep things cool—otherwise, your gel pack might just burst with excitement (and hot gel).

– Set the heated side of your phone on something about half an inch (13mm) tall. This gives you a nice angle to slide in your opening tool—like setting up your own little repair ramp!

– Grab that suction cup and lift the right edge of the back cover until you see a tiny gap peeking through.

– Slide the edge of your opening tool into the gap. Be brave—sometimes it takes a bit of muscle!

– If the adhesive is putting up a fight, hit it with some more heat to soften it up. It cools down fast, so you might have to warm things up a couple times. Patience pays off!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

– Gently slide your opening tool along the right edge of the phone to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep a steady hand and take your time—you’re peeling back the layers for a smooth reveal. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 6

– Slide an opening pick into the edge right next to your opening tool. Let it chill there—it’s your secret weapon to keep that pesky glue from sticking back together.

Step 7

– Gently lay a heated iOpener on the top edge of the phone and let it sit for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up so you can get inside more easily.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 8

Since the glued part here is a bit bigger, you’ll want to slide your pick a little deeper into the phone to get that separation going smoothly.

– Grab an opening pick and work it into the top right corner of your phone, then glide it smoothly around the corner and all the way across the top edge.

– Keep the pick in place so that the sticky adhesive doesn’t sneakily stick itself back together.

Step 9

– Gently press a heated iOpener along the left edge of the phone for two minutes to loosen things up.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 10

– Start by inserting a new opening pick near the top left corner of the device. Gently slide it along the left edge to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick in place on the left side to prevent the adhesive from resealing, making your next steps easier. If you need assistance at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 11

– Place a heated iOpener along the bottom edge of your phone and let it chill there for two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 12

The area that’s glued up is a bit bigger here, so make sure to slide your pick in a little deeper to completely break it free. You’ve got this!

– Take an opening pick and slide it into a bottom corner of your phone. Glide it smoothly along the bottom edge to loosen up the sticky adhesive holding things together.

Step 13

– Grab those opening picks and gently work your way around the back cover—slow and steady wins the race.

– Lift off the back cover with care.

– If you hit a stubborn spot, pause for a sec and use an opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive.

Step 14

Feel free to pop the back cover back on without swapping out the adhesive! Just make sure to clear away any big bits of sticky stuff that could keep the cover from fitting snugly. After you’ve got it in place, give it a little heat and press down to make sure it stays put. It may not be fully waterproof, but that leftover adhesive is usually plenty strong to keep everything secure.

Don’t forget to power up your phone and check your handiwork before slapping on any new adhesive and sealing things up tight!

– Put your device back together by working through the steps in reverse—like rewinding a movie, but with more tiny screws.

– When it’s time to say goodbye to old parts, drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and let them live their best second life.

– Done with the repair? Jump over to the testing guide to make sure everything’s working like a charm.

– If things aren’t cooperating, swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting wisdom. And if you need backup, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

Ready to put it all back together? Just rewind the steps above.

Old parts lying around? Drop them off with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.

Test your fix with our guide to make sure everything’s working like a charm.

Ran into trouble? The Answers community has your back for troubleshooting tips.

If you’re stuck or just want to skip the hassle, you can always schedule a repair.

Android Recovery Menu – Galaxy S20

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 3 Steps

Step 1

– Ready to power down your phone? Press and hold both the volume down and power buttons to bring up the Power Off menu.

– Go ahead and turn off the device.

Step 2

– Plug your device into the computer—yes, it’s time for tech bonding.

– Heads up: You only need to connect to a PC/Mac if you’re planning to update using ADB or want to move files onto your device.

Step 3

– To put everything back together, just work your way through the steps in reverse. You’ve got this! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

To put your device back together, just reverse these steps and you’ll be good to go! If you hit any tough spots along the way, feel free to schedule a repair for some professional help. You’ve got this!

Galaxy S20 Wireless Charging Coil Replacement

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 16 Steps

Ready to tackle the task of swapping out that wireless charging coil on your Galaxy S20? Let’s get to it! Just remember, you’ll want to have some replacement adhesive on hand to seal everything back up nicely. No worries, we’ve got your back!

Step 1

Galaxy S20 Wireless Charging Coil Replacement

Before you dive in, make sure your phone is powered down and unplugged—let’s keep things safe and shock-free!

You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up—just keep it chill and don’t roast your phone! Too much heat can mess with the display or the battery, so go easy.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This helps soften the adhesive, making it easier to lift.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

Easy does it with the pick—too much muscle and the back cover glass might decide to shatter your repair dreams.

If your screen is looking like a spider web, slap a layer of clear packing tape over it to help the suction cup stick. No packing tape? Super-strong tape works too, or you can go full MacGyver and superglue the suction cup to the glass.

The fit is snug, so you might need a couple of rounds with the iOpener and some determined suction cup action before things start to budge.

No gap yet? Hit that edge with a little more heat and give it another go.

– Stick a suction cup right on the back of your phone, aiming for the center near the bottom edge.

– Give the suction cup a confident pull—steady and strong—until you spot a little gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the pointy end of an opening pick into that gap like a pro.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 3

Heads up! Avoid slicing through the adhesive near the phone’s corners—the glass curves here and could crack if you get too close.

– Gently slide the opening pick back and forth along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive. Keep the pick in the seam to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 4

– Warm up the iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Give it some time to work its magic and soften that adhesive!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

Go easy with the pick—too much muscle can leave you with a cracked back cover, and nobody wants that!

Getting it just right might take a few tries, so don’t sweat it!

Since the glass on this side is curved, you won’t be able to slide the pick in too deep. Just make sure the very tip of the pick is under the glass’s edge, and you’re good to go!

If you’re struggling to create a gap, try applying a bit more heat to the edge and give it another shot.

– Start by sticking a suction cup onto the back of your device, right near the left edge but close to the center — think of it as giving the phone a gentle hug. Then, pull steadily on the suction cup to create a little space between the back cover and the frame, like prying open a stubborn door. Next, slide a thin opening pick into that gap to keep it apart. For an extra boost, you might try dropping a few drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam—this helps loosen up the adhesive, making your job a whole lot easier.

Step 6

– Slide the pick underneath the glass’s edge, then gently tilt it down and push it in a bit further to break free the back cover’s adhesive. Easy does it – just keep going until you’re in the clear.

Step 7

Be careful when sliding around the ridge near the volume and power buttons—the glass cutout here can be more delicate and prone to cracking. Take it slow and steady to keep everything intact.

– Gently slide your pick along the left edge of the phone to loosen the back cover’s adhesive. Think of it as peeling open a stubborn jar lid — patience is key!

– Keep your pick under the top left corner near the glass edge to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. It’s like anchoring a sailboat — steady and strategic.

Step 8

You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate for this task, just be sure to keep an eye on the temperature! It’s super important not to overheat your phone, as both the display and the internal battery can be sensitive to heat. Keep it cool and carry on!

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—just enough time to let it loosen up and make your next move a breeze.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 9

Just like with the previous edge, tilt that opening pick downward to slide it smoothly underneath the back cover. Keep at it until it’s sitting nicely in place, and you’ll be ready to move on to the next step.

– Grab a suction cup and stick it right on the back of your phone, aiming for a spot close to the center of the right edge. You’ve got this!

– Give that suction cup a good, firm tug to open up a little space between the back cover and the frame. No need to be shy, just pull steadily!

– Now, take the tip of an opening pick and slide it into that gap. You’re on the right track!

Step 10

While you’re at it, the back cover might just decide to let go of one or both of those trusty picks, and they could tumble out. If that happens, no worries! Just set those picks aside because from here on out, the bottom edge is not going to reseal.

– Gently slide the pick along the right side of your phone to break the back cover’s grip on the adhesive.

– Keep your pick tucked under the right edge of the glass, close to the top, to stop the adhesive from sticking back down.

Step 11

– Take your iOpener and heat it up, then gently apply it to the top edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let that heat do its magic, making everything a bit easier to work with!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 12

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that the glass around the corners of the back cover is a bit wobbly and can crack easily. So, be super gentle during this part to keep your back cover in one piece!

If you hit a snag and the slicing gets stubborn, just take a breather and reheat before diving back in. It helps loosen things up and keeps the whole process smooth sailing.

– Take your pick and cruise along the right edge of your device, rounding the top right corner like a pro.

– Keep gliding along the top edge until you reach the top left corner—this will loosen up the back cover adhesive and set it free.

Step 13

– Gently lift the back cover like you’re unveiling a delicate surprise. Use those handy opening picks to slice through any stubborn adhesive that just doesn’t want to let go.

– Take off that back cover and give yourself a high five for making progress!

– Now, during reassembly, here’s a little tip:

– Why not power up your device to check that everything is working before sealing it up? Just remember to power it down completely before you dive back in.

– Got some adhesive chunks hanging around? Grab a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pluck them away. If it’s being stubborn, a little heat might help soften it up.

– Using custom-cut adhesives? Check out this guide for some pointers.

– If double-sided tape is more your style, follow this guide for that too.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 14

As you work through this process, keep tabs on each screw and make sure it lands back in its original spot. Staying organized keeps things smooth and avoids extra hassle later on.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully remove the five 4 mm screws holding down the motherboard bracket. Keep them safe—you’ll need them later. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

Step 15

Hold up—don’t yank the bracket off just yet! It’s still hanging on to that wireless charging coil.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe. Easy does it—no forcing! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 16

The coil is linked to the rest of the device through spring contacts, so there’s no need to worry about disconnecting any connectors. Just keep it easy and breezy!

– Carefully lift the wireless charging coil away from the device—think of it as peeling a sticker, but with more purpose.

– Take out the wireless charging coil and set it aside—no hulk strength required.

– When putting things back together, start by tightening the motherboard bracket screws first. This lines up the charging coil nice and neat, then press the rest of the coil down so it sticks where it should.

Success!

Samsung Galaxy S20 Rear-Facing Camera Module Replacement

Posted on August 24, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 35 Steps

Ready to give your Galaxy S20 some new camera mojo? This guide walks you through swapping out the rear-facing camera module, which includes all three cameras and the frame that keeps them together. Heads up: you’ll need to take out the motherboard to get to the camera, and have some fresh adhesive on hand for reassembly. Take your time and you’ll have your phone snapping pics again in no time. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S20 Rear-Facing Camera Module Replacement

No stress if the tool ended up in the other hole—the microphone and its seal are tucked safely out of the way.

– Grab a SIM eject tool, the smallest screwdriver bit you have, or even a trusty paperclip (straightened out, of course). Find the tiny hole on the SIM tray up at the top edge of your phone, right next to the plastic antenna band.

– Push straight in with confidence—don’t be shy! The tray will pop right out.

Tools Used

SIM Card Eject Tool

Step 2

The SIM card tray tends to be pretty loose and can pop out easily. Keep an eye on it—if you want to keep your SIM in place, handle the tray gently and avoid jostling it around too much. If it keeps falling out or you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Carefully remove the SIM card tray from your device. When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it’s oriented correctly to fit smoothly into the tray. Keep an eye out for that tiny rubber gasket around the tray—it helps keep water and dust out. If it’s damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire tray to keep your device protected. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.

Step 3

Hit pause on your phone’s power—unplug it and switch it off before diving in!

You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to loosen things up, just keep it chill and don’t roast the phone—screens and batteries aren’t fans of high heat.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the bottom edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 4

Go easy with the pick—too much muscle could turn your back cover into a glass mosaic.

Got a screen that’s seen better days? Try sticking some clear packing tape over it to help the suction cup grab hold. If your suction cup is slacking, swap in some extra-strong tape instead. And hey, if nothing’s sticking, you can go rogue and superglue the suction cup to the screen (just be careful when you pull it off later).

Patience is your friend here—sometimes you’ll need to reheat the edge a few times and keep working that suction cup before things start moving.

If your gap game isn’t strong yet, heat things up a bit more and give it another shot.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the bottom edge—like you’re putting a badge on its jacket.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull. You’re not trying to launch it into space, just enough to make a tiny gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slip the tip of an opening pick into that gap—nice and gentle, like sneaking a cookie from the jar.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

Be extra careful around the corners of the phone where the glass curves. Cutting adhesive too close could crack that delicate glass panel. Take your time!

– Gently wiggle the prying tool along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive. Keep the pick in the seam afterward to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 6

– Place a heated iOpener on the left edge of the back cover and hold it there for about two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive so you can lift the cover more easily. If you need a hand with the repair, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 7

Go easy with the pick—trying to muscle through can turn your back cover into a glass jigsaw puzzle.

Getting this just right might take a few tries—don’t sweat it, patience pays off.

The glass curves along this edge, so you won’t be able to slide the pick in very far. As long as you catch the very tip under the edge, you’re good to go.

If the gap is being stubborn, hit it with a bit more heat and give it another go.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the left side.

– Give the suction cup a steady pull to pop open a little gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the pointy end of an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Got stubborn adhesive? A few drops of strong (90%+) isopropyl alcohol along the seam can help loosen things up.

Step 8

– Slide the pick under the edge of the glass, then angle it downward and push in a bit more to break up the sticky glue and get that back cover loose.

Step 9

Be gentle while maneuvering around the edge near the volume and power buttons—those glass cutouts can be a bit temperamental and might crack if you’re not careful.

– Gently glide that pick along the left edge of your phone to break free the sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep that pick snugly under the left edge of the glass near the top left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 10

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can help with heating, but keep it friendly—don’t let the device get too hot, since both the display and internal battery are pretty sensitive to heat. A gentle touch is all you need to avoid any heat-related mishaps.

– Place a heated iOpener on the right edge of the back cover and let it warm up for two minutes. This will make it easier to remove the cover later on.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 11

Just like last time, give that opening pick a little tilt downward to slide it all the way under the back cover. You got this!

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center along the right edge—it’s like playing pin the tail on the donkey, but with tech.

– Give the suction cup a steady, confident pull to open up a little gap between the back cover and the frame. Slow and sure wins the race here.

– Slide the tip of your opening pick into the gap you’ve created—think of it as sneaking a backstage pass into your phone’s inner world.

Step 12

While you’re working, the back cover might let go of one or both of the picks and send them tumbling. No worries—just grab the pick(s) and set them aside. At this stage, the bottom edge isn’t going to snap shut again.

– Glide your pick along the right edge of the phone to loosen up the back cover’s adhesive. Take it slow and steady—no need to rush.

– Leave the pick hanging out under the top right corner of the glass. That way, the sticky stuff won’t try to sneak back together while you work.

Step 13

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep it cozy to loosen things up.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 14

Watch out for those curved corners—the glass here is pretty fragile and loves to crack under pressure. Take it easy as you work on this step to keep your back cover looking sharp.

If slicing starts feeling like a struggle, hit pause and give it another round of heat before you get back to it.

– Gently glide the pick from the right edge of your device, making your way around the top right corner like a pro.

– Keep slicing along the top edge until you reach the top left corner, ensuring the back cover adhesive is fully separated. You’re doing great!

Step 15

– Gently lift the back cover. Use opening picks to work through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging on.

– Carefully remove the back cover.

– During reassembly:

– Here’s a solid moment to power on your device and give it a quick test before you seal everything up. Just remember to turn it off completely before you continue with the rest of the steps.

– If you’re dealing with sticky adhesive, grab some tweezers or your fingers to remove any stubborn chunks. A little heat can help if it’s being extra difficult.

– If you’re working with custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide.

– Got double-sided tape? Just follow this guide to get it right.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 16

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and loosen those five 4 mm screws holding down the motherboard bracket. Easy peasy—if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Keep tabs on each screw as you go—making sure it finds its way back to exactly where it came from keeps things running smoothly and avoids mix-ups. Staying organized is your best friend here, so take your time and double-check your work before moving on. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

Step 17

Hold up! Don’t yank the bracket off just yet—it’s still hanging on to the wireless charging coil.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently coax that motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe. It’s like giving it a little hug to unclip it—just be gentle and steady!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 18

The coil is tethered to the rest of the device using spring contacts, so there’s no need to disconnect any connectors. Just a simple connection, no fuss.

– Lift up that wireless charging coil gently—no need for Hulk strength here.

– Slide the coil out and set it aside like you’re saving the best piece of pizza for later.

– When you’re putting things back together, start by putting in those motherboard bracket screws first. It’ll help the charging coil line up perfectly. Then, press the rest of the coil down so it sticks just right.

Step 19

Watch out for those tiny surface-mounted components around the socket when you’re unplugging connectors like these. They can be a bit jumpy, so handle with care!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the battery connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 20

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove the five 4 mm screws holding in the loudspeaker and lower midframe. Easy does it—just a few turns to get the parts loose.

Tools Used

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

Step 21

– Grab your trusty spudger or a pair of tweezers and gently slide the tip into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe. Give it a little pry to pop those clips loose and set it free!

– Now, go ahead and lift out the loudspeaker along with the lower midframe. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Step 22

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard near the bottom of the device. When it’s time to reconnect the connectors, carefully line them up and press down on one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing on the middle—misalignments can bend the pins and cause damage. If you need a hand with tricky parts, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 23

– Take your trusty spudger and gently pop up both the main and auxiliary flex cables from the motherboard. Easy does it—these cables don’t like drama.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 24

– Carefully lift and slide out both the main and auxiliary flex cables—think of it as giving them a gentle send-off from the device.

Step 25

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main display flex cable to disconnect it from the motherboard. Easy does it!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 26

– Carefully lift up the display flex cable and gently move it aside so it’s not blocking the motherboard or battery.

Step 27

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out those four 4 mm screws holding down the upper midframe.

Tools Used

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

Step 28

– Slide the tip of your spudger into the little notch on the right side of the upper midframe. Give it a gentle twist to pop those clips loose.

– Lift off the upper midframe and set it aside like a pro.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 29

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the side button flex cable off the motherboard—like opening a stubborn pickle jar, but way less messy.

– With tweezers in hand, carefully nudge that cable away from the motherboard. Give it a little bend, just enough to keep it out of your repair zone.

Tools Used

Step 30

– Gently pop up the front camera flex cable from its cozy spot on the motherboard.

– Swing that cable aside like you’re clearing space for a dance floor—just make sure it’s out of the motherboard’s way.

Step 31

– Gently pop up the front-facing sensor array cable from the motherboard. Think of it like giving it a little handshake—no rough stuff.

– Swing the cable aside so it’s not in your way. Give yourself some elbow room for the next moves.

Step 32

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and start by removing the two screws that hold down the motherboard and camera assembly. One screw measures 4 mm, and the other is 3 mm long. Take your time and keep track of those tiny screws. If you need a hand at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

Step 33

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly and give it a little nudge to pop it free from the phone’s body.

– Now, go ahead and lift out the motherboard assembly with care.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 34

The module is gently attached to the other cameras’ frame by a little post, but with a bit of wiggling, it should come loose without much fuss.

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently wiggle it to pop up the ultrawide camera connector from the motherboard—easy peasy!

– Now, let’s give that ultrawide camera module a little nudge and remove it from its cozy home.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 35

– Double-check that your shiny new part matches the old one before diving in—sometimes you’ll need to peel off adhesive or move over little bits and bobs.

– Ready to wrap it up? Just reverse the steps above to put everything back together.

– Once you’re done, give your device a quick test drive using our guide to make sure everything’s working smoothly.

– Got leftover bits you don’t need? Toss them responsibly at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If your repair took a detour or your camera’s acting up, swing by our Answers community or our S20 camera troubleshooting wiki for extra tips.

– And hey, if you’re stuck or just want a pro to handle it, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Success!

Double-check your brand-new part against the old one—sometimes little bits or sticky stuff need to be swapped or peeled before you pop it in.

Ready to put things back together? Just reverse the steps and you’ll be golden.

Want to make sure everything’s running smooth? Use our guide to test your fix.

Got leftover parts or busted gear? Drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards recycler—they know how to handle the techy trash.

If your repair turned into a puzzle, swing by our Answers community or check out the S20 camera troubleshooting wiki for some wisdom. Or, if you want a pro to take over, you can always schedule a repair.

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE (SM-G780F) Display Assembly Replacement

Posted on August 23, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 10 Steps

Heads up: If your screen doesn’t have the frame already attached, you’ll want to hit pause—this method won’t do the trick.

Ready to give your Samsung Galaxy S20 FE a fresh start? This guide walks you through swapping out a cracked or busted screen with a new one—screen and frame combo only, please! If yours doesn’t have the frame attached, use the separate guide for just the panel. Heads up: you’ll be moving the battery over to the new screen assembly, so if your battery’s looking swollen, take it easy and handle with care. Before getting started, drain your battery down to 25% or less to avoid any fiery surprises. Photos are included, and there’s a video below if you want some extra backup. Let’s get started and bring your phone back to life!

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE (SM-G780F) Display Assembly Replacement

– Before diving into the internal parts, pop out the SIM tray — it’s like opening the first chapter before the story begins. This keeps things nice and tidy for when you get into the guts of the device. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for a helping hand.

Step 2

Watch out when you’re using that opening pick on the right side! The WLAN antenna cable is hanging out close to the edge of the frame, and it’s a bit of a delicate flower—easy to damage if you’re not careful.

– Warm up the back cover with a heat gun to soften the adhesive. Then, gently slide a thin plastic pry tool around the edges between the back cover and mid frame. Work your way all around to carefully loosen and release the back cover without using excessive force. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Heat Gun

Step 3

– Unscrew those 9 screws securing the antenna module—just don’t try to yank the module out yet, it’s not ready to party.

– Next, tackle the 7 screws holding the lower part of the plastic shield at the bottom of your phone. Piece of cake!

Step 4

– Gently slide a slim pry tool into the gap of the lower plastic cover to pop it off.

– Carefully insert a thin tool at the side of the antenna module to free it up, but hold off on yanking it off for now.

– Swing the antenna module over toward the battery like you’re giving it a warm hug.

– Beneath that, you’ll find the battery connector and the antenna module connector. Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry both of these off to finally set the antenna module free.

Step 5

– Pop out that rear camera using a spudger—give it a gentle nudge and it’ll come right out.

– Grab your Philips screwdriver and unscrew the mainboard’s trusty retaining screw.

– With your spudger, carefully detach the cable linking the mainboard to the sub-board. It’s easier than untangling headphones.

– You can also pry those red and white cables loose—no need to wrestle with the connectors on the mainboard.

Step 6

– Grab your trusty spudger and pop off the connectors for the display, fingerprint sensor, and main-sub board. For the fingerprint sensor, give it a gentle nudge from the side until it’s free—easy does it!

– Take out the screw that’s holding the sub-board in place.

– Spudger time again! Pry the sub-board loose, then lift the cables out of the channel running up the side of the frame. No need to rush—just smooth moves.

– Once everything’s loosened up, you can pull out the mainboard, sub-board, and cables all together. If the cables are feeling a little clingy, disconnect them from the boards first before you make your grand exit.

Step 7

– Grab your trusty heat gun and warm up the front side of the display to loosen up that adhesive holding the vibrator motor snug as a bug.

– Once it’s all toasty, slide in a small flat tool at the five o’clock position and gently pry the motor free. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Heat Gun

Step 8

On the S20 FE, this part is basically just hanging out—it’s a frame filler with no real job. But on the S20 Ultra, it’s living its best life as a working antenna.

– Loosen and remove the two screws securing this component. Then, carefully transfer it over to the new frame to keep things moving smoothly.

Step 9

Handle batteries with care—puncturing one can turn it into a fire hazard. If you find a damaged battery, it’s best to dispose of it properly at your local battery recycling center. For safety and peace of mind, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your heat gun and warm up the front of the display—think of it like giving the adhesive a little spa treatment to get it moving.

– Slide a thin, flat tool between the battery and the frame, wiggling it gently along the side. The adhesive will start to give up its grip as you go.

– Once one side is free, repeat the moves on the other. The battery should pop right out, ready for its next adventure.

Tools Used

Heat Gun

Step 10

– Give your phone a quick test run before putting it all back together. If everything looks good, enjoy your newly revived device!

– Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Success!

Once everything looks good, power on the device to give it a test run. If it’s working smoothly, you’re all set! Need a hand with something else? Check out the forums at schedule a repair anytime.

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G Wireless Charging Coil Replacement

Posted on August 23, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 23 Steps

charging coil on its own

Ready to swap out the wireless charging coil in your Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G? This guide walks you through replacing just the coil itself—no extra bells and whistles. If your new coil comes bundled with the motherboard cover and loudspeaker, be sure to check out the wireless charging assembly guide instead. Don’t forget fresh back cover adhesive when you’re putting your device back together!

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G Wireless Charging Coil Replacement

Heads up: let your battery dip below 25% before starting. Fully charged lithium-ion batteries and accidental pokes don’t mix well—low battery means safer repairs!

– Turn off your phone and disconnect any cables—give your device a little break before we dive in!

Step 2

A hair dryer works too—just go easy on the heat, or your back cover might end up looking like a potato chip.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it hang out on the bottom edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to loosen things up.

Tools Used

Step 3

Don’t be afraid to get a little aggressive – this part can be a bit stubborn. If it’s not budging, try applying some extra heat and giving it another shot. It’ll eventually give in.

– Place the suction cup right in the middle of the bottom edge of the back cover—try to get it as close to the edge as you can.

– Gently pull the suction handle upwards with consistent force. This will start to create a little gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap to keep it open and continue the process.

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 4

– Glide the opening pick along the bottom edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep the pick hanging out in the bottom right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneakily stick things back together.

Step 5

A hair dryer can do the trick here too—just watch out for turning up the heat too high, unless you want your back cover to look like modern abstract art.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep the heat gentle but steady to loosen things up and make the cover easier to lift. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Step 6

– Glide the opening pick along the bottom right corner and cruise up the right edge to slice through that stubborn adhesive.

– Let the pick chill in the top right corner for now.

Step 7

Another option is using a hair dryer—just keep the heat in check to avoid warping the back cover. A gentle blow of warm air can help loosen things up, but don’t go full blast or you might end up with a warped shell. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

Tools Used

Step 8

– Glide the opening pick around the top right corner and cruise along the top edge to slice through that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick chilling in the top left corner for now.

Step 9

A hair dryer works too—just keep it chill on the heat, since cranking it up too high could turn your back cover into a funky new shape.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Give it a nice spa treatment before you start prying.

Tools Used

Step 10

– Glide the opening pick around that top left corner, then cruise down the left edge to slice through the last bits of sticky stuff holding things together.

Step 11

If that back cover is still hanging on for dear life, grab your opening pick and run it gently around the edge to loosen up any leftover adhesive.

– Pop off that back cover like it’s the lid on a soda can!

Step 12

– Before you snap everything back together, fire up your device to make sure all the important stuff is working. Once you’ve checked, shut it down fully before you get back to business.

– Putting your old back cover back on? You know the drill.

– For a fresh back cover, peel off the protective liners, then press down like you’re sealing an envelope—make sure the edges are locked in tight.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to pull away the old sticky adhesive from the cover and the frame.

– A little isopropyl alcohol (over 90%), a trusty microfiber cloth, and some elbow grease will wipe out any leftover gunk.

– Ready for new adhesive? Follow this guide to lay down the custom-cut stuff and get your device looking sharp again.

Step 13

The wireless charging assembly is like a little team made up of the motherboard cover, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker. They’re all snuggled together with some trusty graphite tape, so when it’s time to take them out, just remember to do it as one happy little unit!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and get ready to unscrew! First, remove the nine 4 mm screws that keep the motherboard cover snug. Then, take out the seven 4.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker. Keep track of your screws—they’re the star players in this teardown. Need a hand? Remember, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair if things get tricky.

Step 14

– Slide a pick under the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover and let the adventure begin.

– Give the pick a gentle twist—those clips won’t know what hit them.

– Sneak your pick under the bottom left edge and twist again to set the rest of those clips free.

– When you’re putting it all back together, press all around the edge of the motherboard cover to snap those clips back in place.

Step 15

– Swing the motherboard cover out of the way to get to the battery and wireless charging connectors hanging out near the bottom edge of the motherboard.

Step 16

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the battery and wireless charging connectors from the motherboard. Easy does it—just a little prying and those connectors are free!

To reconnect those little connectors, take it easy. Line up one side first, press gently until you hear that satisfying click, then repeat the process on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle; doing so could cause the pins to bend and lead to some long-term issues. If you’re not sure about anything, feel free to schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 17

– Slide the tip of a spudger into the bottom left corner between the loudspeaker and the frame—like you’re opening a secret door.

– Gently lift to pop the clips along the left edge of the loudspeaker free. Give it a little wiggle if needed.

– Move to the bottom right corner and lift up to release the last few stubborn clips. Victory is near!

– When putting it all back together, press down all around the loudspeaker’s edges to snap those clips back in place. That satisfying click means you nailed it!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Take out the wireless charging assembly with care.

Step 19

That wireless charging assembly is held down with some seriously sticky stuff—don’t be shy about using a bit of muscle here.

A hair dryer on the top edge of the loudspeaker can help loosen things up if the glue is being stubborn.

– Place a heated iOpener on the loudspeaker to loosen up the glue holding it to the wireless charging assembly. This will make it easier to peel off without a fuss.

Tools Used

Step 20

– Gently peel back the graphite sheet from the top edge of the loudspeaker, like you’re peeling a sticker—smooth and steady. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 21

That wireless charging coil is stuck on there with some seriously determined adhesive.

A hair dryer can step in as your secret weapon to warm up the tape and make removal a breeze.

– Warm up that iOpener and give some love to the graphite tape on the bottom edge of the motherboard cover. It’s like a cozy blanket for your device!

Tools Used

Step 22

– Gently lift the graphite sheet away from the bottom edge of the motherboard cover, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.

Step 23

– Now you’re looking at the wireless charging coil. Fancy, isn’t it?

– Line up your new part with the original—sometimes there’s a little sticker or adhesive you need to peel off before popping it in.

Success!

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G Wireless Charging Assembly Replacement

Posted on August 23, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 18 Steps

Ready to swap out or remove the wireless charging assembly from your Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G? No worries, we’ve got you covered! This assembly includes the motherboard cover, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker, all wrapped together with graphite tape. Just pull them off as one unit. When it’s time to reassemble, you’ll need some fresh back cover adhesive to get everything back in place. If you’re replacing just one part of the assembly, no problem—check out the guides for the wireless charging coil or loudspeaker.

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G Wireless Charging Assembly Replacement

Before you dive in, make sure your battery is below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a troublemaker if it gets punctured. Stay safe and let’s get started!

– Power down your device and disconnect all cables to get ready for the repair. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 2

A hair dryer works too—just keep the heat in check, or your back cover might end up looking like modern art.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Easy does it—this will soften the adhesive and make the next steps smoother. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Step 3

You’ll need to use a bit of muscle here! If it’s being stubborn, warm things up a little more and give it another go.

– Stick the suction cup right at the bottom edge of the back cover—get it as close to the edge as you can.

– Give the suction handle a solid, steady pull to pop open a gap between the cover and the frame. Channel your inner strong person!

– Slip an opening pick into the gap—slide it in carefully.

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 4

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep the pick in the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 5

Feeling brave? A hair dryer can come to the rescue, but keep it cool—literally. Too much heat might bend or warp the back cover, so use gentle, controlled warmth. If you hit a snag or want a hand, you can always schedule a repair to keep things safe and sound.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give that right edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug. You’ll be amazed at how easily it pops off after that!

Tools Used

Step 6

– Gently glide your opening pick around the bottom right corner and continue up the right edge to cleverly cut through that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the opening pick snugly in place at the top right corner while you tackle the next step!

Step 7

A hair dryer can be your buddy here—just keep the heat in check to avoid warping the back cover. Use a gentle, low-heat setting and keep the dryer moving to prevent any damage. If you run into trouble or want a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes to get things loosened up.

Tools Used

Step 8

– Gently slide your opening pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to loosen the adhesive grip.

– Keep the pick in place in the top left corner to hold things steady.

Step 9

If you’re feeling extra handy, you can bust out a hair dryer to help loosen things up — just be sure to keep the heat in check, or you might end up warping that back cover.

– Gently warm up the left edge of the back cover using a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the cover easier to remove. If you need a hand with this step, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Step 10

– Gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to cut through the last bits of adhesive. You’ve got this!

Step 11

If the back cover is still sticking tight, grab an opening pick and gently slide it around the edges to break free any stubborn adhesive. Keep it steady and work your way around—patience is key. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop off the back cover—like opening a secret hatch to tech adventure!

Step 12

– Now is a great time to power on your device and double-check everything works before you seal it back up. Don’t forget to shut it down completely before moving on.

– Reinstalling your old back cover? No problem, let’s get that snug and secure.

– Got a new back cover? Peel off those liners and press firmly around the edges to make sure it’s tight and secure.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to gently remove the old adhesive from the back cover and frame.

– For any leftover sticky residue, grab some isopropyl alcohol (the stronger, the better) and a microfiber cloth to wipe it all away.

– Follow these steps to add some fresh custom-cut adhesive and keep everything in place.

Step 13

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and start by removing the nine 4 mm screws that hold down the motherboard cover. Next, loosen the seven 4.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker. Keep track of all screws as you go—salvation repair is all about those details. If you get stuck or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.

The wireless charging assembly, which includes the motherboard cover, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker, is all held together with some graphite tape. To get it out, you’ll want to carefully lift it as one piece—no need to tear it apart. If you run into trouble or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 14

– Slide a pick under the bottom right side of the motherboard cover—think of it as the secret handshake.

– Give the pick a little twist to pop loose those stubborn clips holding the cover down.

– Do the same pick-and-twist move on the bottom left edge to set the rest of the clips free.

– When you’re putting things back together, press down evenly all around the cover so the clips snap back into place. Almost done—high five!

Step 15

– Shift the motherboard cover out of the way so you’ve got a clear shot at the battery and wireless charging connectors hanging out on the bottom edge.

Step 16

When reconnecting press connectors, line them up precisely and press down gently on one edge until you hear that satisfying click—then do the same on the other side. Skip squishing the middle, unless you’re auditioning for a new game of ‘bend the pins’—which we don’t recommend. Bent pins mean a bad time for your device.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the connectors for the battery and wireless charging from the motherboard. Easy does it—precision beats force every time!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 17

– Slip a spudger right into the gap at the bottom left corner of the loudspeaker, nestled between it and the frame. Gently pry up to pop the clips holding the left edge in place. Then, wiggle the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker to free the remaining clips. When you’re putting everything back together, press down firmly around the edges of the loudspeaker to ensure all the clips click into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Start by carefully detaching the wireless charging assembly from the device. Keep your cool and work steadily—you’re almost there! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros.

Success!

Put your device back together by retracing these steps in reverse order.

Old parts lying around? Drop them off with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler for a planet-friendly sendoff.

If things went sideways, try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our Answers community for a little backup.

Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G Ultra Wide Camera Replacement

Posted on August 23, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 27 Steps

Is your Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G’s ultra-wide camera giving you trouble? If it’s not focusing, taking blurry or grainy photos, or just being generally uncooperative, it might be time for a replacement. Before diving in, double-check that the issue is actually with the camera and not the rear lens cover. If the lens is the culprit, check out our guide to replace that instead. Remember, you’ll need to remove the motherboard to get to the ultra-wide camera, so make sure you’re ready for that. Once you’re done, don’t forget to grab some replacement adhesive for the back cover when putting everything back together. Need a hand? If you’re feeling stuck, feel free to schedule a repair.

Step 1

Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G Ultra Wide Camera Replacement

Heads up: let your battery dip below 25% before starting—lithium-ion batteries pack a punch when charged and don’t play nice if poked.

– Power down your device and disconnect all cables to get ready for the fix. Keeping things unplugged and off makes the repair safer and smoother. If you need a pro hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 2

Oops! If the SIM eject tool took a detour into the microphone hole, it’s usually no big deal—your microphone should still be just fine.

– Grab your SIM eject tool, a small bit, or even a paperclip you’ve straightened out—whatever you’ve got handy—and give it a firm press into the SIM tray hole on your phone’s top edge. Keep pressing until the tray pops out.

– Once the tray is ejected, go ahead and remove it.

Step 3

You can also use a hair dryer — just be careful not to go too hot or you might end up bending the back cover!

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes.

Tools Used

Step 4

You’ll need to use a good amount of muscle here. If it’s not budging, try warming it up a bit more and give it another go.

– Place the suction cup right in the middle of the bottom edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible. We’re aiming for a clean start.

– Now, gently pull up on the suction handle with steady, firm pressure. You want to create a small gap between the cover and the frame. No need to rush, just steady and strong.

– Slip an opening pick into the gap you just created. You’re doing great so far!

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 5

– Gently slide your opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep the pick in the corner—specifically the bottom right—to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 6

A hair dryer can work wonders, but watch out! Too much heat might just turn that back cover into a pretzel.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as giving your device a little spa treatment before you dive in.

Tools Used

Step 7

– Glide your opening pick along the bottom right corner and cruise up the right edge to slice through that sticky adhesive.

– Let the opening pick chill in the top right corner for now.

Step 8

A hair dryer can come in handy, but watch out! Too much heat might just give your back cover a funky warp. Keep it cool and steady!

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the top edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug. It’s like a spa day for your device!

Tools Used

Step 9

– Glide the opening pick along the top right corner and across the top edge to cut through the sticky stuff.

– Let the pick chill out in the top left corner for now.

Step 10

A hair dryer works too—just keep the heat under control, or your back cover might end up looking like modern art.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for two minutes to loosen things up.

Tools Used

Step 11

– Glide your opening pick along the top left corner, then cruise down the left edge to cut through that last bit of adhesive. Almost there!

Step 12

If the back cover is still playing hard to get, gently slide an opening pick around the edges to break free any stubborn adhesive that’s holding it back.

– Start by carefully removing the back cover of the device. Keep your tools steady and gentle, and you’ll have that cover off in no time. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 13

– Now’s a great time to turn your device back on and make sure everything is working smoothly. Just remember to power it down again before you finish up.

– Breathe new life into’ or ‘resurrect’ your old back cover? If so, here’s what to do next:

– Got a shiny new back cover? Remove the liners and press silent assassin style around6930 the perimeter to secure it to the frame.

– Gently pry the old adhesive off the back cover and frame using tweezers or your fingers – it’s like removing a stubborn sticker.

– Dab a microfiber cloth với some high-octane iso-propyl alcohol (we’re talking 90% or higher) to wipe away any lingering adhesive residue.

– Ready for a fresh start? Follow this guide to apply new custom-cut adhesive and get your device looking brand new. If you need help, schedule a repair

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 14

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 16 bolts holding down the wireless charging setup:

– Nine of these are 4 mm-long screws keeping the motherboard cover in place.

– Seven are 4.5 mm-long screws locking down the loudspeaker.

The wireless charging assembly packs a punch with the motherboard cover, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker all hanging out together. They’re glued with graphite tape and should come out as one neat bundle. Keep it smooth—removing this assembly carefully keeps everything working perfectly. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

Step 15

– Slide a pick under the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover.

– Give that pick a little twist to pop the clips free and set the cover loose.

– Now, slide and twist the opening pick at the bottom left edge to let the rest of those clips join the party.

– When you’re putting things back together, give a solid press around the edges of the motherboard cover to lock those clips in place.

Step 16

– Swing the motherboard cover out of the way to get to those battery and wireless charging connectors hanging out on the bottom edge.

Step 17

To reconnect press connectors like this one, gently line up the pins and press down on one side until it clicks, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle to prevent bending the pins and causing permanent damage. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the connectors for the battery and wireless charging from the motherboard. Take your time—careful leverages make for smooth sailing. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 18

– Slip the pointy end of your spudger between the bottom left corner of the loudspeaker and the frame—like you’re sneaking up on it.

– Gently pop up the left edge of the loudspeaker to free those hidden clips. They’ll let go, promise.

– Now, ease up the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker to set the rest of the clips free.

– When you’re putting it all back together, give the perimeter of the loudspeaker a good press to make sure all the clips snap back in place.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 19

– Carefully detach the wireless charging assembly.

Step 20

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the interconnect cable’s press connector from the motherboard. Take your time—patience makes perfect. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 21

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop off those three camera connectors—like unplugging tiny, high-tech Legos.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 22

– Slip one arm of your angled tweezers beneath the red antenna cable’s head, like you’re scooping up a tiny treasure.

– Lift straight up with gentle confidence—no need to wrestle, just a clean disconnect.

– Repeat the move for the white antenna cable. Easy does it!

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 23

– Repeat the previous step to disconnect the blue antenna cable from the bottom left corner of the motherboard. During reassembly, ensure the antenna cables are snugly seated in their channels along the edges of the phone. When reattaching antenna connectors like these, line up the connector with its socket and gently press down with the flat end of a spudger—there’s a satisfying snap when it seats properly. It might take a couple of tries, but patience pays off. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.