Month: August 2025

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This will loosen things up and make the next steps smoother!

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center near the bottom edge.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to pop open a gap between the back cover and the phone frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap to get things moving.

– Gently glide your pick along the bottom edge, working it back and forth to cut through the adhesive. Keep the pick in the seam afterward to prevent the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up a heated iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of the back cover for a cozy two minutes.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center along the left side.

– Give the suction cup a good, steady pull to start a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the pointy end of an opening pick into the gap you just created.

– Feeling stubborn glue? A few drops of high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol in the seam will help loosen things up.

– Slide the pick under the edge of the glass, tilt it down gently, and work it further in to break that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover.

– Gently slide your pick along the left edge of the phone to loosen the back cover’s adhesive. Keep the pick under the left edge of the glass to stop the adhesive from resealing. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently place a heated iOpener on the right edge of the back cover and hold it there for about two minutes. This will soften things up and make the next steps smoother. If you need a hand with anything, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup near the middle of the right edge on the back of your phone. That’s your starting point.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to pop open a little gap between the back cover and the frame. Don’t be shy—show it who’s boss!

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you just made.

– Glide your pick along the right side of the phone to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the back cover.

– Keep your pick parked under the top right edge of the glass so the adhesive doesn’t sneakily reseal itself.

– Warm up the iOpener and give your back cover a cozy two-minute spa treatment at the top edge. You’ll be amazed at how much easier it is to pop that cover off afterward!

– Gently wiggle your pick from the right edge, navigating around the top right corner. Keep sliding along the top edge, working your way to the left, until the back cover’s adhesive is fully separated. Take your time—patience is key! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift up the back cover. Use those trusty opening picks to slice through any leftover sticky stuff.

– Pop the back cover off and set it aside.

– While putting things back together:

– Now’s your chance to power up your device and make sure everything works before sealing it shut. Just remember to turn it off again before moving on.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to clear away any stubborn adhesive bits. If they’re sticking around, a little heat can help loosen things up.

– Got custom-cut adhesive? Follow the guide linked.

– Rolling with double-sided tape? There’s a guide for that too.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and carefully lift up the motherboard bracket from the plastic midframe. You’ve got this!

– Gently tilt the motherboard bracket upward so the orange battery connector becomes easy to reach. Keep it steady and don’t force anything—patience is key here. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the battery connector up to free it. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it in to disconnect that wireless charging coil connector. You’ve got this!

– Check out your new part next to the old one—sometimes a sticker or extra bit needs to move over before it fits just right.

– Put your device back together by reversing these steps. Easy, right?

– Give your repair a test run using our guide—make sure everything’s working as it should.

– Got leftover parts or busted stuff? Take your e-waste to a certified recycler.

– If your fix hit a snag, swing by our Answers community for troubleshooting tips.

– If you’re stuck or want a pro to handle it, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes.

– Wiggle the pick along the bottom edge to cut through the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Keep the pick wedged in the gap so the glue doesn’t sneakily stick itself back together.

– Place a heated iOpener on the left edge of the back cover and hold it there for about two minutes. This will soften the adhesive and make removal easier. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a suction cup and stick it to the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the left edge. You’ve got this!

– Give that suction cup a good, steady pull to create a little gap between the back cover and the frame. Feel the magic happen!

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you’ve just made. You’re on a roll!

– For an extra boost, consider adding a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam to help loosen that pesky adhesive. Just a little goes a long way!

– Once you’ve got the pick under the glass edge, gently tilt it downwards and slide it in further. This will help break the back cover’s adhesive so you can peel it off smoothly.

– Gently slide your pick along the left edge of the phone to loosen the back cover’s adhesive. Think of it as giving the phone a little nudge to start the party.

– Keep your pick under the left edge of the glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. This way, you’re making sure the back stays open for the next steps. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a couple of minutes. Give it a nice spa treatment before you dive in!

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming near the center of the right edge—think of it like giving your device a gentle hug.

– Gently but firmly pull on the suction cup to coax a little gap between the back cover and the frame—slow and steady wins the race.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap and wiggle it carefully to start popping the cover free.

– Gently slide your pick along the right edge of the phone to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Once you’ve got the right edge separated, keep your pick under the glass near the top to stop that adhesive from resealing itself. We don’t want any sneaky reattachments!

– Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and let it chill on the top edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes.

– Gently slide your pick from the right edge, working around the top right corner. Keep it steady and friendly as you go. Then, glide along the top edge all the way to the left, carefully cutting through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Take your time—patience makes perfect. If you need a hand with any tricky steps, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift off the back cover, using opening picks to carefully cut through any stubborn adhesive. Once loosened, remove the back cover completely. During reassembly, it’s a smart move to power on your device and test all functions before sealing it back up—just to make sure everything’s working smoothly. Be sure to shut down your device fully before continuing. To clean up leftover adhesive, pick out the chunks with tweezers or your fingers—warming it up briefly can help loosen things. If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. For double-sided tape, refer to this guide to get the best results.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to tackle those six 4 mm-long screws holding the motherboard bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe to unclip it. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the motherboard bracket just enough to get the orange battery connector into view. Keep it steady — no need to force it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently ease it under the battery connector to pop it up and disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up that wireless charging coil connector.

– Gently lift the wireless charging coil away from the device using a pair of tweezers—think of it as peeling an orange, but for tech. Once loosened, carefully remove the coil. When putting things back together, reconnect the charging coil and battery connectors first. Then, secure the motherboard bracket screws to keep everything in line. Finally, press down firmly on the coil pad to make sure it sticks well. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to tackle those five 4 mm-long screws holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe in place. You’ve got this!

– Get your spudger or a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wedge it into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe. Give it a careful pry to pop those clips loose and free the midframe.

– Once that’s done, lift out the loudspeaker and lower midframe to continue with the disassembly.

– Grab a spudger and gently work your magic to lift and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard located near the bottom of your device. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to reattach those connectors, simply align them carefully and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Just remember, don’t apply pressure in the middle—those pins can be a bit delicate. If they get misaligned, it could lead to some serious damage. If you find yourself in a tricky situation, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the main and auxiliary flex cables from the motherboard, disconnecting them smoothly. Take your time—patience makes perfect. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift and detach the main and auxiliary flex cables. Take your time and be careful, they can be a bit tricky, but you’ve got this!

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the three 3.4 mm screws holding down the USB-C port and daughterboard. Easy does it!

– Gently wedge a spudger under the left side of the daughterboard and give it a little leverage to pop it free from its slot. Then, grab your tweezers and lift the daughterboard straight up and away from the bottom of the device. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes. Let’s get that cover loosened up!

– Gently slide your opening pick back and forth along the bottom edge to carefully cut through the adhesive. Keep the pick in the seam to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Give it a little spa treatment so it loosens up for the next step.

– Grab a suction cup and stick it to the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the left edge. You’ve got this!

– Give that suction cup a good, steady pull to create a little gap between the back cover and the frame. Feel the power!

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you’ve just made. You’re on a roll!

– For an extra boost, consider adding a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam to help loosen that pesky adhesive. Just a little magic potion!

– Slide the pick further under the edge and angle it down to break up that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover.

– Take your pick and cruise down the left side of the phone to break up that sticky adhesive holding the back cover.

– Keep your pick chilling under the left edge so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together while you work.

– Heat things up by applying a heated iOpener to the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of the phone, aiming for as close to the middle of the right edge as you can get.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to pop open a small gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap to start prying it apart.

– Glide your trusty pick along the right side of the phone to loosen up that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Leave your pick chilling under the top right edge of the glass—this keeps the glue from sneakily sticking itself back together.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep the heat steady to loosen things up—it’s like giving your device a little spa treatment. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the back cover—think slow-motion superhero moves. Use opening picks to slice through any leftover sticky stuff.

– Take off the back cover and set it aside like a pro.

– During reassembly:

– Now’s a perfect time to power on your phone and see if everything’s working. Once you’ve done your victory dance, remember to shut it down completely before continuing.

– Tweezers or your fingers can help you pick off any leftover adhesive blobs. If the sticky is stubborn, hit it with a bit of heat.

– If you’ve got custom-cut adhesives, check out Salvation Repair’s guide for the next steps.

– Using double-sided tape? Salvation Repair has you covered with a step-by-step guide.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the six 4 mm screws holding down the motherboard bracket. Easy does it!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and carefully lift up the motherboard bracket from the plastic midframe. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the motherboard bracket to reveal the orange battery connector beneath. You’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger and gently wedge it under the battery connector to lift it up and disconnect. Take your time—patience is key to a smooth disconnect.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector—you got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil—think of it like peeling a sticker, but with more techy flair.

– Take out the wireless charging coil and set it aside. Easy does it!

– When you’re putting everything back together, start by reconnecting the charging coil and battery connectors. Screw the motherboard bracket back in to line things up, then give the coil pad a nice press so it sticks where it should. If things start feeling wild, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five screws (they’re 4 mm long) holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe in place.

– Grab your trusty spudger or a pair of tweezers, and pop them into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe. Give it a gentle lift to free those clips and set the midframe loose.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and the lower midframe—nice and easy.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the display cable connector to disconnect it. Take your time—patience is key here. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– The adhesive along the long sides of your device is pretty skimpy—just slide the pick in about 5 mm and you’ve got it separated.

– Heads up: the top edge is holding onto that adhesive like a phone clinging to its last bar of Wi-Fi. You’ll need to go a bit deeper with your pick here to break free.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the top edge of the display for about two minutes. This helps soften the adhesive, making the next steps smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide a second pick into the same gap and cruise up to the top left corner—you’re slicing through that sticky adhesive like a pro.

– Keep your pick parked in the seam so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together behind your back.

– Place a third pick into the middle gap and give it a gentle slide toward the top right corner of the display to cut through the adhesive. Keep that pick in the seam afterward to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide that center pick deeper into the top edge of your device to cut through the adhesive holding the earpiece and front-facing camera in place. You’re doing great!

– Now, go ahead and remove the center pick.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of the display.

– Pop another pick into the gap up at the top right corner of the screen—give it a gentle nudge.

– Glide that pick all the way down to the bottom right corner to split the sticky adhesive holding things together.

– Sneak a pick under the middle of the right edge to keep that sneaky adhesive from sneaking back into place.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the left edge of the display a cozy two-minute hug.

– Start by gently inserting a plastic pick into the gap at the top left corner of the display.

– Carefully slide the pick down along the edge to the bottom left corner, slicing through the adhesive as you go.

– Next, insert a pick underneath the center of the screen’s left edge to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Grab some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol and carefully apply it behind the display, aiming for the adhesive marked in red. Get as close as you can!

– As you apply the alcohol, tilt the device a little to help it seep into the adhesive beneath the bottom part of the display.

– Once the alcohol is in place, keep the bottom of your device tilted down for a couple of minutes. This will help the alcohol work its magic and get deeper into the adhesive.

– Gently slide your spudger under the top edge of the screen and work your way along to loosen up that clingy clear adhesive. Take it slow—no need to rush this part!

– Carefully remove the display from its frame—think of it as freeing up the star of the show. When you’re ready to put it back, thread the display cable through the hole in the frame before pressing the display into its new adhesive home. Just a heads-up: don’t try to sneak the cable in before the adhesive is in place, or you’ll be redoing the whole dance. If you need a hand during any step, you can always schedule a repair to get expert help.

– Before you wrap things up, check out your new part next to the old one—sometimes a little adhesive or a few leftover bits need to be swapped or peeled off.

– Ready to put everything back together? Just reverse the steps above. Easy as pie.

– Once you’re done, swing by our repair test guide to make sure everything’s working as it should.

– Got old parts or e-waste? Send them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler—your future self (and the planet) will thank you.

– If things got a little wild and your device isn’t cooperating, the Salvation Repair Answers community is here for you. Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a SIM card eject tool, a screwdriver bit, or just a trusty paperclip you’ve straightened out. Find the tiny hole on the SIM tray at the top edge of your phone, right by the plastic antenna band.

– Push in with steady pressure until the tray pops out like magic.

– Pop out the SIM card tray—easy does it!

– When you slide the SIM back in, make sure it’s facing the right way in the tray. No upside-down shenanigans.

– See that skinny rubber gasket hugging the SIM tray? It’s your phone’s shield against water and dust. If it looks beat up or is missing, swap in a fresh gasket or a new tray to keep your phone safe.

– Warm up your iOpener and give the bottom edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug.

– Stick a suction cup near the bottom center of the phone’s back—think of it as your grip buddy.

– Pull gently but firmly on the suction cup to loosen the back cover from the frame, creating a small gap.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap to start prying it apart.

– Wiggle your pick across the bottom edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick parked in the gap so the glue doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Your phone likes a little spa day before we get things moving.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of the phone, aiming for the center near the left edge.

– Give that suction cup a firm, steady pull to start prying the back cover away from the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you’ve created.

– A few drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol in the seam can help loosen stubborn adhesive.

– Once the pick is snugly tucked under the edge of the glass, give it a little tilt downwards and slide it in a bit more to completely break free from the back cover’s adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the pick along the left side of your phone to break the seal of the back cover’s adhesive.

– Once you’ve slid the pick in, leave it resting under the left edge to keep that adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as giving your device a little spa treatment before you get hands-on.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of the phone, aiming as close to the center of the right edge as you can. Keep it steady!

– Pull gently but firmly on the suction cup to create a small gap between the back cover and the frame. Patience pays off here.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap to start prying it open. Keep going carefully to avoid any damage.

– Gently glide your pick along the right side of your phone to break that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Once you’re in there, keep your pick tucked under the right edge of the glass near the top to keep that adhesive from playing tricks on you and resealing itself.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover by gently applying a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up and makes the next steps smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently work the pick along the right edge, easing it around the top right corner. Keep sliding it along the top edge, all the way around to the left, until the back cover’s adhesive gives way. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to get professional help.

– Gently pry up the back cover. If it feels stuck, grab an opening pick and slide it along the edges to slice through any leftover adhesive.

– Take off the back cover and set it aside.

– On the way back to putting things together:

– Now’s a clever time to power up your phone and make sure everything’s working. Once you’ve checked, turn it off before diving back in.

– Remove any stubborn bits of adhesive using tweezers or just your fingers. If the adhesive is clinging on for dear life, a little heat can make it let go.

– If you’ve got custom-cut adhesives, check out the guide for those.

– Using double-sided tape? There’s a guide for that too.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to unscrew those six little 4 mm screws holding down the motherboard bracket. Easy peasy—just a quick twist and you’re on your way. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the motherboard bracket up and away from the plastic midframe. Give it a little wiggle to unclip it—easy does it!

– Gently tilt up the motherboard bracket to give yourself a clear shot at the orange battery connector. Keep it light and steady—no need to force anything. If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the battery connector—just a little wiggle and lift will do the trick.

– Grab your spudger and gently pry up the wireless charging coil connector to disconnect it. Take it slow, you’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil—no need to rush, just a smooth peel away from the device.

– Take out the wireless charging coil like you’re removing a VIP from the party.

– When putting things back together, start by reconnecting the charging coil and battery connectors, then tighten up those motherboard bracket screws for a snug fit. Once everything’s lined up, press the coil pad down so it sticks nicely.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the five 4 mm screws holding in the loudspeaker and lower midframe. Easy peasy—just keep track of those tiny screws! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger or tweezers and sneak the tip into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe. Give it a gentle pry to pop those clips loose.

– Lift out the loudspeaker along with the lower midframe—like a pro.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard hanging out near the bottom of your device. It’s like unplugging tiny, stubborn headphones—just with more style.

– When you’re reconnecting, line up the press connectors with care. Start by pressing down on one side until you hear that sweet click, then do the same for the other side. Skip pressing the middle—those pins are delicate, and nobody wants a bent connector drama.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the main and auxiliary flex cables off the motherboard—think of it as unplugging tiny, high-tech seatbelts.

– Gently lift and peel away the main and auxiliary flex cables—think of it as carefully unwinding a ribbon, not ripping a band-aid. If you hit any snags or need a pro touch, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Gently lift and disconnect the left 5G antenna cable from the motherboard. Keep it careful and steady—this step is all about finesse. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a spudger and gently lift up that main display flex cable to disconnect it from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift and bend the display and left 5G antenna flex cables out of the way of the motherboard and battery, keeping it smooth and tension-free. If you need a hand, just schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the three 4 mm screws holding down the upper midframe. Time to show those screws who’s boss!

– Slide the tip of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe and gently pry upward to pop the clips free. Once it’s loose, lift off the upper midframe to continue your repair. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the right 5G antenna flex cable from the motherboard—like you’re flipping a switch at a dance party.

– Next, use tweezers to nudge that cable away from the motherboard, giving it some room to breathe.

– Gently pop up the side button flex cable from the motherboard like you’re lifting a secret trapdoor.

– Swing that cable out of the way, giving yourself plenty of space to work your magic.

– Gently pop up the front camera flex cable from the motherboard like you’re giving it a little high five.

– Swing the cable aside so it’s not blocking the motherboard—think of it as clearing the dance floor.

– Lift up and unplug that top 5G antenna cable from the motherboard—nice and easy, like pulling off a sticker.

– Grab your spudger and gently lift up the corner of the 5G millimeter wave antenna module—like popping the lid off a stubborn jar.

– Take out the 5G antenna module and set it aside somewhere safe.

– When putting things back together, start by reconnecting the 5G antenna connector to make sure everything lines up just right. Then, press the antenna module down so it sticks where it belongs.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to unscrew the two screws holding down the motherboard and camera assembly. You’re looking at one 4 mm screw and one 3.4 mm screw—easy peasy. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to lend a hand.

– Take your spudger and gently wedge the flat end into the bottom left corner of the motherboard. Give it a little lift to pop it free from its cozy spot in the phone.

– Go ahead and lift the motherboard assembly out. Nice work!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the ultrawide camera connector from the motherboard. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to disconnect!’

– Now, let’s remove the ultrawide camera module. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the connectors for both the telephoto and wide-angle cameras from the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!

– Next, lift up and disconnect the depth sensor. Give yourself a high five; you’re moving right along!

– Check out your new part next to the old one—sometimes bits and bobs (or sticky stuff) need to move over before you install.

– Ready to put things back together? Just follow these steps backwards and you’re golden.

– Once you’re done, give your device a quick test to make sure everything’s working.

– If you’ve got leftover parts or electronics, toss them at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give the planet a high five.

– Feeling stuck? Swing by our Answers community for advice, or you can always schedule a repair with the pros.

– Grab a SIM card eject tool, a small screwdriver, or even a straightened paperclip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray. You’ll find it on the top edge of your phone, right next to the plastic antenna band.

– Press in with a little force, and voilà, the tray will pop right out!

– Pop out that SIM card tray like a pro! It’s easier than you think.

– When you’re ready to put the SIM card back in, just make sure it lines up perfectly with the tray. It’s like a puzzle piece!

– Don’t forget about that thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray; it’s your phone’s little superhero against water and dust. If it’s looking worse for wear, consider swapping it out or getting a new SIM tray to keep your device safe and sound.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it onto the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive so you can lift the cover more easily. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the bottom edge. Think of it as giving your phone a little hat.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to start cracking open a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to arm wrestle, just steady pressure.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you’ve made. You’re basically a phone ninja now.

– Gently slide the pick along the bottom edge, back and forth, to cut through the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the opening pick in place to stop the adhesive from sealing itself back up.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Give it a nice spa treatment to loosen things up!

– Once you’ve got the pick under the edge of the glass, give it a little tilt and slide it in deeper to loosen up that stubborn adhesive and free the back cover.

– Run the pick along the left side of your phone to break up that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover.

– Leave the pick chilling under the left edge—think of it as a doorstop for glue, so it doesn’t sneakily reseal itself.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a solid two minutes. Let the heat work its magic before moving on.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the right edge like a pro.

– Give that suction cup a good, firm tug to open up a little gap between the back cover and the frame—you’re doing great!

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you just created. Easy peasy!

– Gently glide your pick along the right edge of the phone to break the adhesive on the back cover. Keep it steady, you got this!

– Once you’ve slid your pick under the right edge of the glass near the top, leave it there to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. Easy, right?

– Lay a heated iOpener across the top edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to help loosen things up.

– Carefully slide the pick from the right edge of your device, hugging that top right corner as you go.

– Keep on slicing along the top edge and around to the left side until you’ve fully separated the back cover adhesive.

– Gently lift the back cover, using opening picks to slice through any stubborn adhesive along the way. Once it’s loose, remove the back cover completely. During reassembly, this is a good moment to power on your device and check all functions before sealing it back up—just remember to turn it off completely before continuing. Use tweezers or your fingers to clear away any leftover adhesive chunks; applying a bit of heat can help loosen stubborn spots. If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. For double-sided tape, stick to this guide. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to tackle those six 4 mm-long screws holding the motherboard bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe. Easy does it — just a gentle tug to unclip it.

– Lift the motherboard bracket just enough to sneak a peek at the orange battery connector.

– Time to getthis repair started! Use a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect thebattery connector.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector—think of it as giving it a friendly nudge to disconnect.

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil off—it’s like peeling a sticker, but way more high-tech.

– Take out the wireless charging coil and give yourself a mental high five.

– When putting it all back together, start by reconnecting the charging coil and battery connectors, then secure those motherboard bracket screws so everything lines up. Press the coil pad down so it sticks snugly.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five 4 mm screws holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe.

– Grab your trusty spudger or tweezers and poke them into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe—give it a gentle pry to pop those clips loose.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and lower midframe like a pro.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up those main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard hanging out near the bottom of your device.

– When you’re reconnecting these press connectors, line them up with care, press down on one side till you get that satisfying click, then do the same on the other. Steer clear of pressing in the middle—misalignments can mean bent pins and a world of trouble. Take it slow and you’ll keep everything happy and healthy.