Month: August 2025

– Samsung just threw down with the biggest contender in the Camera Bump showdown—the surprise battle you didn’t even know was happening—and now it’s wrapped up! Everyone can chill now. If your device is acting up, like not enough headphone ports or a missing Bixby button for your loud complaints, don’t worry—these quirks are fixable. Remember, you could technically make a bump bigger, but at some point, it just turns into a thicker phone body with no bump at all—crazy, right? For a quick visual comparison, check out the raised triple bump of the iPhone 11 Pro Max versus the single Martinsville Speedway bump on the Note10+5G. If you’d like help with your repair, you can always schedule a repair to get things sorted.

– While warming up our tools, our friends at Creative Electron are busy with some X-ray imaging on the Ultra. Looking inside reveals many familiar features from last year’s Note10+5G—like those embedded mmWave antennas in the frame and the upward-firing earpiece speaker tucked behind the display. But here’s a standout: check out that massive zoom camera near the power buttons. It’s taking up the space of two or three regular cameras, and we’ll get into what that means soon. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Kicking off with the classic Samsung Opening Procedure, we get things heated—literally. Warm up the back panel to soften up that stubborn adhesive.

– All that glue might look intimidating, but good news: the back panel pops off without any surprise cable drama.

– This is where our jumbo suction cup earns its keep. Perfect for those moments when you need a little extra grip.

– We’re diving into the toolbox for some bigger, bolder tools—like this Manta kit driver that’s perfect for unscrewing stubborn screws or cracking open a nut (not at the same time, of course). Just keep the snacks and the hardware separate. Next, with the top layer of antennas, speaker, and charge coils flipped aside, we get a good look at the internals. It’s pretty reminiscent of a Note10+ 5G in there—if you swapped out the stylus and used that space for more battery power. Stay tuned for our teardown wallpaper post! We’ll be sharing wallpapers for your Ultra, Plus, and standard S20. Finally, we’re quickly removing the main board, which is packed with cameras, millimeter-wave hardware, and extra layers—so it’s almost like a mini city. Time to start clearing out the clutter and making room for the new parts. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s dive into the 108 MP wide-angle camera—Samsung’s really showing off this sensor’s power. But hey, bigger sensors and more pixels aren’t always a guarantee for better pics! Those tiny 108 million pixels packed into a small area can lead to some noisy shots, especially in low-light situations. Samsung says this new sensor can still pull off clear shots in the dark thanks to a special barrier around each pixel and a clever 3×3 pixel binning technique they call ‘nona-binning’—because nine pixels team up to boost light gathering. The sensor’s surface area is more than double that of the iPhone 11 Pro’s 12 MP sensor, giving it plenty of room to shine. And don’t worry—this pixel partying happens right at the hardware level, cutting out the usual conversion errors. If you need help with this repair, you can always schedule a repair.

– Ready for a close-up? This camera module sprawls across the phone like it owns the place. Samsung loves it so much, they’ve plastered its specs right on the bump. Time to crack it open and see what all the fuss is about.

– So, how do you squeeze a bunch of zoom lenses into a phone that’s barely thicker than a pencil? Samsung’s answer: flip the whole thing sideways! Instead of beaming light straight to the sensor, this camera uses a prism to redirect it with a slick 90-degree twist.

– It’s a wild ride for the light! After hitting the prism (which, by the way, has its own image stabilizer), the image zooms through a sliding stack of telephoto lenses, finally landing on the sensor at the end of the tunnel.

– The lens itself handles a solid 4x magnification—anything beyond that is a mix of sensor cropping, binning (crunching 48 megapixels down to 12), and your classic digital zoom. That’s how they get to that headline-grabbing 100x.

– Pop the prism out, and you’ll spot copper coils, magnets, and tiny white bearings on the bracket. That prism glides back and forth to smooth out your shaky hands, so you can snap crystal-clear shots without sweat.

– With the shields out of the way, it’s time to check out the silicon superstars underneath:

– Samsung K3LK4K40BM-BGCN 12 GB LPDDR5 RAM stacked on top of the Qualcomm 865 SoC—double tech trouble.

– Samsung KLUDG4UHDB-B2D1 128 GB UFS 3.0 flash storage—speedy and spacious.

– Qualcomm SDX55M 2nd-gen 5G modem—your link to lightning-fast data.

– Skyworks SKY58210-11 RF Front-End Module—handling those wireless signals.

– Qorvo QM78092 Front-End Module—another key player for your phone’s radio game.

– Maxim MAX77705C power management IC—keeping everything powered up and smooth.

– Qualcomm QPM5677 and QPM6585 5G power amplification modules—cranking up that 5G performance.

– Hang tight! Flipping the boards over unveils a treasure trove of even more nifty chips:

– Qualcomm SDR865 RF Transceiver

– Murata KM9D19075 Wi-Fi & Bluetooth Module

– Qualcomm PM8250 power management IC

– Qualcomm PMX55 power management IC

– Qualcomm PM8150C power management IC

– Qualcomm QDM4870 front-end module

– Silicon Mitus SM3080 power management IC

– You’ve already met the big players—now let’s check out some extra goodies:

– Qualcomm SMR526 RF transceiver

– Qualcomm QDM5872 front end module

– Skyworks SKY77365-11 quad-band GSM/GPRS/EDGE power amplifier module

– Qualcomm QET5100 envelope tracker module

– NXP Semiconductor SN110U NFC controller w/ Secure Element and eSIM

– NXP Semiconductor BGU8103 GPS/GLONASS/Galileo/BeiDou low noise amplifier

– NXP Semiconductor NCX2200 low voltage comparator

– Let’s talk bonus chips! These are the behind-the-scenes MVPs:

– Qualcomm PM3003A power management – keeps the juice flowing.

– NXP Semiconductor PCA9468 – handles super-fast charging.

– Cirrus Logic CS35L40 – cranks up the audio vibes.

– Cirrus Logic CS40L25 – gives your device that satisfying haptic buzz.

– Maxim Integrated MAX77816 – the buck-boost muscle with 5A switches.

– ON Semiconductor NCP59744 – dual-rail LDO regulator for extra stability.

– Vishay DG2730 – manages your speedy USB 2.0 connections like a pro.

– IC Identification, continued:

– Spot the Qualcomm QET6100 envelope tracker—this chip helps keep power delivery smart and efficient.

– Check out the Samsung S2MIS0A MST Driver. It’s the magic behind contactless payments.

– Say hello to the STMicroelectronics STM32G071EB, a 32-bit ARM Cortex-M0+ microcontroller loaded with 128 KB flash—tiny but mighty.

– Find the Samsung S2MIW04X, your power management partner on this board.

– Likely you’ll see the ON Semiconductor FPF3788UCX OVP load switch, protecting your device from unwanted voltage spikes.

– Meet the Silergy DC-DC converter, working behind the scenes to keep your voltages just right.

– Spot the Richtek RT8010GQW DC-DC converter, another hero managing your device’s power.

– If you ever get stuck or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s dive into some of the sensors on this board and see what they’re up to:

– STMicroelectronics LPS22HD pressure sensor

– STMicroelectronics LSM6DSO accelerometer

– Probably an Austria Micro Systems TMD4903 color/proximity sensor with an IR emitter

– Likely a Bosch Sensortec BMM150 geomagnetic sensor

– Time for round two with our jumbo suction cup—this battery isn’t coming out without a little drama. Add a dash of isopropyl alcohol to the mix and you’ll have it released in no time.

– This battery is a powerhouse: 5000 mAh cruising at 3.86 V, delivering an impressive total of 19.30 Wh.

– Before you wrap up, scan the phone’s edges for any sneaky components. You’ll spot a slim millimeter-wave antenna tucked beside a copper heat spreader—yep, that classic combo.

– That 120 Hz screen refreshes super fast, but taking it off is still a slow and painfulurement process.

– Compared to the Note10+ display, you won’t notice much of a difference with this faster refresh rate. However, the design does look a bit more streamlined – Samsung managed to simplify things by using a single ribbon cable, making repairs a tad easier.

– Let’s take a look at the onboard silicon:

– Fittingly, the codename for this ‘space zoom’ phone is Hubble. And, as we all know, the Hubble space telescope had a flawless launch and never needed any repairs… yeah, right!

– Here are the specs: Qualcomm QBT2000 3D Sonic Sensor controller, Samsung S6SY79AX Touchscreen Controller, and Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8 Mb Serial NOR Flash.

– Samsung keeps innovating, but this time with a less bendy design. While smartphone shapes have mostly settled into the same big black glass slab, there’s some cool stuff hidden inside the S20 Ultra! It might be tempting to shrug off features like 5G (which really shines in big cities) or ultra-high-res cameras and periscopes as mere gimmicks, but those little hardware tweaks can turn into real game-changers (hello, selfie cameras!). In a landscape full of safe upgrades, it’s refreshing to see Samsung pushing the envelope with wild tech and seeing what works. That said, when it comes to repairs, Samsung isn’t exactly breaking new ground—this phone’s repairability score shows it. If you run into trouble, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to get it sorted.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it onto the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for as close to the bottom center as you can get. Think of it as a tiny trampoline for your device.

– Pull on the suction cup with steady, confident pressure to gently pry open a little space between the back cover and the frame. No need to go all Hulk on it—gentle wins the race.

– Carefully slide an opening pick into that newly formed gap to start separating the parts. You’ve got this—just take it slow and steady.

– Gently work your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive. Keep it steady and patient—slow wins the race here.

– Once you’ve got a good groove going, leave your opening pick tucked in the seam to stop the adhesive from closing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover by applying a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep at it until the adhesive loosens up, making your next step smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a suction cup and stick it to the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the left edge. Let’s get that cover off!

– Give that suction cup a good, steady pull to create a little gap between the back cover and the frame. You got this!

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you just made. We’re making progress!

– For an extra boost, consider adding a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam to help loosen up that stubborn adhesive. Just a little help goes a long way!

– Once you’ve got the pick sliding under the glass edge, tilt it down gently and work it in further to break free the back cover’s adhesive. Keep things steady, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide your pick toward the bottom edge of the phone to loosen the adhesive holding the back cover. Then, keep your pick tucked under the left edge of the glass near the bottom to prevent the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide a pick gently under the center of the left edge of the back cover to get things started.

– Slowly work the pick upward toward the top of the device, carefully separating the adhesive as you go.

– Keep your pick under the left edge of the glass near the top to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let the heat do its magic, and get ready to tackle the next step.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of the phone, aiming for the center of the right edge. You’re a precision artist.

– Give the suction cup a good, firm pull—steady is the name of the game. Watch for that sneak-peek gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap like you’re a lock-picking pro.

– Gently slide your pick towards the bottom edge of the phone to loosen the back cover’s adhesive—think of it as giving it a little nudge to say hello.

– Keep your pick wedged under the right edge of the glass near the bottom to stop the adhesive from sealing back up—it’s like holding the door open for a smooth reveal.

– Now it’s time to get that back cover off – start by inserting another pick under the center of the right edge.

– Gently slide the pick upwards towards the top of the device, loosening the adhesive that’s holding the back cover in place.

– Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

– Gently wiggle the pick from the right edge, working your way around the top right corner of the device.

– Keep sliding along the top edge until the adhesive holding the back cover releases completely.

– Gently lift up the back cover. Use opening picks to slice through any leftover adhesive—like slicing through soft cheese.

– Take off the back cover and set it aside.

– When you’re putting things back together:

– This is a great moment to turn your phone on and make sure everything works before sealing it up.

– Clear away any stubborn bits of adhesive with tweezers or your fingers. If it’s being sticky, a little heat can help loosen things up.

– If you’ve got Samsung custom-cut adhesives, check out this guide.

– Using double-sided tape? This guide is your friend.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up the wireless charging coil connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Now, let’s make sure everything is in order! Give your new part a quick comparison with the original—you might need to shift some components around or peel off those sticky backings before going for the install.

– Time to put it all back together! Just retrace your steps from above, and you’ll have your device all set in no time.

– Once you’re done, use this guide to test out your handy work and see if it all works like a charm.

– Got some old tech laying around? Don’t forget to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Things didn’t go quite as you hoped? No worries! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting cheer.

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– Grab your SIM eject tool, the tiniest screwdriver bit you have, or a trusty straightened paperclip and poke it into the little hole on the SIM tray up top by the antenna band.

– Give it a good push! The tray will pop out and you’re on your way.

– Let’s kick things off by taking out that SIM card tray. You’ve got this!

– When you’re popping that SIM card back in, make sure it’s facing the right way in relation to the tray. It’s like a puzzle piece that needs to fit just right.

– Don’t forget about the thin rubber gasket that hugs the SIM tray. It’s there to keep out the pesky water and dust. If it’s looking a bit worn out or has gone AWOL, time to replace that gasket or grab a new SIM tray to keep your phone’s insides safe and sound.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of the back cover for a couple minutes.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of the phone, aiming for the center of the bottom edge.

– Give the suction cup a good, steady pull to crack open a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of your opening pick into that gap—like a pro sneaking into a secret club.

– Gently slide your pick along the bottom edge, working back and forth to cut through the adhesive like a pro. Keep it steady and confident! Leave your opening pick tucked in the seam to keep the adhesive from sealing back up—nobody wants that to happen. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep the heat steady to help loosen the adhesive and make the cover easier to lift. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Once the pick is tucked under the edge of the glass, tilt it gently downward and slide it in further to break through the back cover’s adhesive. Keep at it steadily to free the panel smoothly.

– Gently slide the pick towards the bottom of your device to break the seal of the back cover’s adhesive.

– Leave your pick tucked under the left edge of the glass near the bottom to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Slip another pick under the middle of the left side of the back cover—smooth moves only.

– Gently glide the pick up toward the top edge to loosen that sticky adhesive. Take it slow; no rush.

– Keep your pick parked under the left edge near the top, so the sticky stuff doesn’t try to reunite. You’re in control here.

– Fire up that iOpener and let it hang out on the right edge of the back cover for a cozy two-minute warm-up.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the right edge—precision is cool, but eyeballing it works too.

– Give that suction cup a firm, confident pull to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame—no need to wrestle, just steady hands.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made, kind of like you’re sneaking a pick into a guitar solo.

– Glide your pick down towards the bottom edge of the phone to loosen that stubborn back cover adhesive.

– Keep your pick chilling under the right edge of the glass near the bottom—this stops the adhesive from trying to reunite with its long-lost love, the cover.

– Slide a plastic pick beneath the center of the right edge of the back cover. Then, gently work the pick upward, guiding it towards the top of the device to loosen the adhesive. Take your time to avoid damaging the cover. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive and makes the cover easier to lift off. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the back cover—no Hulk moves needed. Slide an opening pick along the edge to slice through any stubborn adhesive.

– Once free, remove the back cover. Victory dance optional.

– Reassembly time:

– This is your moment to power on your phone and make sure everything’s working before you seal it up. Better safe than sorry!

– Clear out any leftover adhesive chunks with tweezers or your fingers. A little heat can help loosen things up if the adhesive is playing hard to get.

– Using Samsung custom-cut adhesives? Check out Salvation Repair’s guide for details.

– Rolling with double-sided tape? Salvation Repair’s guide has you covered.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the wireless charging coil connector. Keep it friendly, keep it simple, and if you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair to get professional help.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the five 3.9 mm-long screws holding in the loudspeaker and lower midframe. Keep those screws safe—you’ll need them later! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger into the little notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker. You’re doing great!

– Now, give it a little pry to pop those clips loose. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers (or your fingers, if you’re feeling confident) and carefully peel the wireless charging coil away from the device. Take it slow, no need to rush!

– Now, gently lift the wireless charging coil out. Easy does it!

– Place the charging coil aside for now—don’t worry, you’ll be putting it back together later when it’s time to reassemble.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and whisk away those five 3.9 mm screws holding down the motherboard bracket. Precision counts, but don’t sweat it—just keep track of those tiny screws!

– Grab a pair of blunt-nose tweezers and gently unclip the motherboard bracket. Once it’s free, set it aside—you’ll be reusing it when you put everything back together.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the battery connector out of its spot. Disconnect like a pro!

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the primary and secondary interconnect cables from the daughterboard near the bottom of the device. To reconnect press connectors like these, carefully align them and press down on one side until it clicks, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle to prevent bending the pins—misalignment can lead to permanent damage. If you need a hand with tricky steps, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up those interconnect cables from the motherboard—both the primary and secondary ones. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift up and take off the primary and secondary interconnect cables—no need to wrestle them.

– Put both cables somewhere safe. You’ll need them when it’s time to put everything back together.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove the three 3.7 mm screws holding in the USB-C port and daughterboard. Easy peasy—just a few turns and you’re on your way. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros.

– Slip the pointy end of your spudger under the left side of the daughterboard and gently pop it loose from its spot.

– Grab the daughterboard with tweezers or your fingers, lift it up from the bottom, and set it aside. Nice work!

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom-right corner of your device for a delightful 90 seconds.

– Slide the spudger’s tip into the gap between the frame and the notch on the vibrator’s edge, right near the bottom of your device.

– Gently pry upwards with the spudger to detach the vibrator from the frame.

– Carefully take out the vibrator.

– Gently lift and unplug the left 5G mmWave antenna connector from the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift and unplug the display flex cable from the motherboard. You’re almost there!

– Carefully lift up and tuck the display and left 5G mmWave antenna flex cables aside, keeping them out of the way of the motherboard and battery. No stress—just a little cable yoga!

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the four screws (they’re 3.9 mm long) holding the upper midframe in place. Easy does it!

– Take your trusty spudger and slide it into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe. Give it a gentle twist to pop those clips loose.

– Lift off the upper midframe like a pro.

– Set the upper midframe aside for now—you’ll need it again when putting everything back together.

– Gently lift and unplug the right 5G mmWave antenna flex cable from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Carefully bend the cable to keep it out of the motherboard’s way. Easy peasy!

– Gently lift up the side button flex cable and unplug it from the motherboard—think of it as giving your phone a little stretch.

– Move the cable aside so it’s not blocking the motherboard. Easy does it!

– Gently pop up the front camera flex cable from the motherboard. Treat it like a delicate little lever.

– Swing that cable away from the motherboard—kind of like moving a curtain aside to let the sunshine in.

– Gently lift and unplug the upper 5G mmWave antenna cable from the motherboard. Then, use tweezers or your fingers to peel away the upper 5G antenna. Keep the antenna safe—you’ll want it again when putting everything back together. When reassembling, connect the antenna connector first to ensure it lines up perfectly, then press down on the rest of the antenna module to secure it in place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew those two 3.9 mm screws holding down the motherboard and camera assembly. Precision work, but you’ve got this!

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly and give it a little nudge to pop it free from the phone’s body.

– Carefully lift out the motherboard assembly.

– Warm up the iOpener and place it over the front camera for about 90 seconds to loosen things up.

– Slide a spudger into the little gap between the frame and the front camera. It’s like giving your device a gentle nudge!

– Gently pry up with the spudger to help the front camera break free from the frame. You’re doing great!

– Carefully use tweezers or your fingers to lift out the front camera. You’ve got this!

– Set the front camera aside for now; it will be back in action during reassembly. Keep it safe!

– Time to get that front camera back in action! Here’s how to do it:

– Peel the adhesive off its liner and stick it onto the frame—make sure it’s lined up nicely.

– Grab the tab with tweezers or your fingers and pull to reveal the sticky top layer.

– Pop the front camera into place and press it down so it sticks snugly to the frame.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those four 3.4 mm-long screws holding down the 5G mmWave antennas. Easy as that—just a bit of twist to free them up. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a spudger and gently lift the bottom screw tab of the 5G mmWave antenna bracket—think of it as giving it a little nudge to get things started.

– Use tweezers or your fingertips to carefully lift and remove the 5G mmWave antenna—treat it like a delicate treasure.

– Set the antenna aside in a safe spot—you’ll be bringing it back during reassembly, so keep it handy.

– Grab your trusty spudger and give the top edge of that 5G mmWave antenna bracket a gentle pry. It’ll pop up just like magic!

– Now, with your fingers or some tweezers, delicately lift out the 5G mmWave antenna. Nice and easy!

– Once it’s out, place the antenna to the side—don’t lose it, as it will be making a comeback after we finish up!

– Time to put everything back together! Just follow these steps in reverse, and you’ll be good as new.

– Now that you’re done, don’t forget to responsibly recycle any leftover e-waste with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our community at Salvation Repair for some expert help. And if you’re really stuck, you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Warm up your iOpener and set it on the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let that heat work its magic!

– Start by placing a suction cup on the back of your phone, right near the center of the bottom edge for the best grip.

– Give that suction cup a strong tug – we want to open a little gap between the back cover and the frame, so pull with steady confidence!

– Now, take an opening pick and gently slide it into the gap you just created.

– Gently glide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to cut through that sticky adhesive like a pro.

– Keep your opening pick snugly in the seam to stop the adhesive from sealing up again.

– Take your trusty iOpener and warm it up. Now, place it gently on the left edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let the heat work its magic, softening things up so you can get to the good stuff. Patience is key, but you’ve got this!

– Slide the pick under the edge of the glass, angle it down, and work it in a little more to loosen up all that sticky back cover glue.

– Gently slide that trusty pick toward the bottom edge of the phone to help separate the back cover from its sticky situation.

– Keep your pick snugly tucked under the left edge of the glass near the bottom of the device to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Slide a pick under the center of the left edge of the back cover like you’re sneaking into a secret club.

– Work the pick up toward the top, gently working the adhesive loose as you go.

– Keep the pick chilling under the left edge near the top—this stops the sticky stuff from grabbing hold again.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover by applying a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep it cozy and gentle—think of it as giving your device a little spa treatment. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of the phone, aiming as close to the center of the right edge as you can. Keep it steady and confident.

– Pull on the suction cup with a firm, steady tug to create a little gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to go all Hulk—just enough to get some room.

– Slide a plastic opening pick into that gap. You’re on your way to freeing up the back cover—keep it smooth and steady.

– Scoot your pick down to the bottom edge of the phone—let’s show that adhesive who’s boss.

– Park the pick near the lower right edge of the glass to keep that sticky stuff from making a comeback.

– Warm up the top edge of your back cover for about two minutes using a heated iOpener. Let it work its magic—your phone’s about to loosen up!

– Gently slide your pick from the right edge of the device, maneuvering around the top right corner.

– Keep slicing along the top edge to carefully detach the back cover’s adhesive, making sure not to rush.

– Gently lift off the back cover, using opening picks to carefully cut through any leftover adhesive. Next, remove the back cover completely. During reassembly, this is a good moment to power on your device and give all functions a quick test before sealing everything up. Use tweezers or your fingers to pick away any stubborn adhesive bits—apply a little heat if they’re really sticking. If you’re working with Samsung’s custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. For double-sided tape, refer to this guide. If you’re feeling stuck or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the connector for the wireless charging coil—think of it as giving your phone a little nudge to wake it up.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil away from the device—think of it as peeling away a sticker, but more delicate.

– Carefully remove the wireless charging coil from its spot, making sure not to bend or damage it.

– When putting everything back together, connect the wireless charging coil connector first—this helps align everything just right. Then, press down firmly on the coil to stick it in place and secure the connection. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five screws (they’re each 3.9 mm long) holding down the motherboard bracket.

– Grab your tweezers and gently pop off the motherboard bracket—like you’re removing a stubborn popcorn kernel. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the battery connector up and away—like you’re unplugging a tiny robot’s nap cord.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to work your magic! Carefully remove the five screws, each measuring 3.9 mm, that are holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe in place. You’re doing great, keep it up!

– Grab your trusty spudger or a pair of tweezers and slide the tip into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe. Gently pop those clips loose—think of it as convincing the midframe to let go.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and lower midframe with a smooth move. Voilà!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it to lift up and disconnect that display cable. You’ve got this!

– The adhesive along the long sides of the device is pretty thin, so a gentle 5 mm pick insertion is enough to start separating it. Keep in mind, though, that along the top edge, the adhesive extends quite a bit further from the device’s edge. You’ll want to insert your pick a little deeper here to get it fully separated. Take your time, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up your iOpener and set it on the top edge of the screen for about two minutes to loosen things up.

– Grab a suction cup and slap it onto the display glass, aiming for the center near the top edge – you got this!

– With a firm and steady pull on that suction cup, create a little gap between the display glass and the frame – feel the excitement!

– Now, take the sharp end of an opening pick and carefully slip it into the gap, starting at the earpiece speaker notch and gently slide it down beneath the display.

– Keep that pick in place to make sure the adhesive doesn’t decide to play hide and seek again!

– Pop in a second pick into that same gap and glide it up to the top left corner of the display to cut through the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep your opening pick snug in the seam to stop that adhesive from sealing back up. You’re doing great!

– Grab your third pick and wiggle it into the center gap. Slide it over to the top right corner, slicing through that stubborn adhesive like a pro.

– Leave your pick chilling in the seam—this keeps the adhesive from sticking itself back together.

– Glide the center pick along the top edge to loosen up the sticky stuff around the earpiece and front camera. Let the pick do the work!

– Once you’ve sliced through, lift out the center pick with a little victory dance.

– Warm up a trusty iOpener and give the right edge of the display a cozy two-minute hug.

– Grab an opening pick and slip it into the top right corner of the screen—look for that little gap.

– Glide the pick smoothly down to the bottom right corner, slicing through the sticky adhesive like a pro.

– Now, tuck a pick under the middle of the screen’s right side to keep that adhesive from sticking itself back together.

– As you glide your tool around the edge of the device to carefully slice through the adhesive, keep an extra eye on the delicate spots near the USB-C port—let’s avoid any surprises!

– Warm up the left edge of the display with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as giving your device a gentle spa treatment before you start.

– Gently insert a pick into the gap at the top-left corner of the display.

– Carefully slide the pick down along the edge to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.

– Slide a pick underneath the center of the screen’s left edge to keep the adhesive from sealing back up.

– Start by squirting a generous amount of over 90% isopropyl alcohol behind the display, aiming as close to the clear adhesive (marked in red) as you can. Tilt the device slightly as you do this—it’s like giving the adhesive a little nudge to let the alcohol sneak in underneath. Once you’ve applied the alcohol, keep tilting the bottom of the phone downward for a couple of minutes—think of it as giving the alcohol time to do its magic and loosen things up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide your spudger under the top edge of the screen and work it along to loosen up that sticky clear adhesive. Take it slow—no need to rush!

– Carefully detach the display from the frame, keeping it gentle so nothing cracks. When it’s time to put the new display back in, thread the display cable through the frame’s cutout before pressing the screen into the adhesive. Remember, don’t insert the cable before the adhesive is ready—wait until you’re all set for a smooth fit. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab some tweezers to gently lift away any leftover adhesive from the frame—no need to scrape or force it. Next, grab some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to give the frame’s surface a good clean, wiping in one steady direction to keep things neat and smear-free. When it’s time to reassemble, follow this guide to install custom-cut adhesives designed for your device. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your SIM eject tool, a tiny bit, or even a trusty straightened paperclip—whatever you’ve got on hand works!

– Give it a confident poke into the little hole on the SIM tray (you’ll find it at the top edge of your phone, hanging out next to the plastic antenna band).

– Push in with a bit of oomph, and voilà—the tray pops out!

– Pop out the SIM card tray like a pro.

– When sliding the SIM card back in, make sure it matches up with the tray—no upside-down acrobatics needed.

– Spot a thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray? That’s your phone’s water and dust bouncer. If it’s torn or missing, swap out the gasket or tray to keep your phone safe and sound.

– Warm up your iOpener and set it on the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let it work its magic to soften up the adhesive.

– Grab a suction cup and stick it onto the back of your phone, aiming for that sweet spot near the middle of the bottom edge.

– Give that suction cup a solid pull! You want to make a nice little gap between the back cover and the phone frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that newly formed gap and get ready to work your magic.

– Glide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through that stubborn adhesive—it’s like convincing gum to let go of your shoe.

– Leave the pick chilling in the seam to keep the adhesive from making a comeback.

– Give the left edge of the back cover a spa day with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—let that warmth work its magic.

– Start by sticking a suction cup onto the back of the phone, near the left edge and as close to the center as possible. Then, gently pull on the suction cup with steady, firm pressure to create a small gap between the back cover and the frame. Next, slide an opening pick into the gap to help loosen the adhesive. For an extra boost, try applying a few drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam—this can help dissolve the glue and make the process smoother. If you need assistance, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide the pick under the edge of the glass, then give it a little tilt and push it along to fully free the back cover from its sticky grip.

– Gently slide your pick along the bottom edge of the phone to break the back cover’s adhesive seal.

– Leave the pick resting under the left side of the glass, near the bottom, to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Slip a pick right under the middle of the left edge of the back cover to get started.

– Slowly work your pick upward along the device to loosen the adhesive holding the back on.

– Keep your pick tucked under the top-left corner of the glass near the top of the device so the adhesive doesn’t stick back together. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Place a heated iOpener on the right edge of the back cover and hold it there for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up, making your next steps smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the center near the right edge—think of it as the phone’s sweet spot.

– Give that suction cup a firm, steady pull to coax a gap open between the back cover and the frame. Slow and steady wins the race here.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made. Like sneaking a chip into a bag, but with more purpose.

– Gently slide your pick down towards the bottom edge of the phone to break the seal of the back cover’s adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Once you’re in, tuck your pick under the right edge of the glass near the bottom. This will keep that pesky adhesive from sticking back together while you work your magic!

– Slide another pick under the center of the right edge of the back cover. You’re halfway there!

– Carefully move the pick upwards along the edge of the device to gently break the seal of the adhesive. Easy peasy!

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover by pressing a heated iOpener against it for two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive so the cover can come off more easily.

– Gently slide your pick from the right edge of the device, moving around the top right corner. Keep going along the top edge until you’ve fully separated the back cover adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the back cover. If there’s any stubborn adhesive hanging around, use an opening pick to slice through it with ease.

– Carefully remove the back cover and set it aside.

– Pro tip: Before you start reassembling, power up your device and make sure everything is working smoothly. You’ll thank yourself later!

– If you’re dealing with some leftover adhesive, grab some tweezers (or your fingers) to clear it out. Need extra help? A little heat should do the trick to loosen it up.

– Using Samsung custom-cut adhesives? No worries, just follow the guide here for a smooth process.

– Got double-sided tape on hand? Follow this guide for detailed steps and you’ll be good to go.

– Grab your trusty spudger and pop up the wireless charging coil connector—just a gentle nudge will do the trick.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and carefully lift the wireless charging coil away from the device. Take your time, it’s like a delicate dance!

– Now, go ahead and remove that wireless charging coil. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, start by reconnecting the wireless charging coil connector first. This will help you get it all lined up just right. Then, give the rest of the coil a good press down to make sure it sticks. You’re almost there!

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five screws (they’re 3.9 mm long) that are holding the motherboard bracket in place.

– Grab those tweezers and gently unclip the motherboard bracket to free it up. Easy does it—no force needed. If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair for extra help.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the battery connector to disconnect it.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and tackle those five 3.9 mm-long screws that are holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe in place. You’ve got this!

– Take your spudger or tweezers and pop them into the top left notch of the midframe—give it a gentle pry to unclip those sneaky fasteners holding everything together.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and the lower midframe like you’re revealing the secret sauce behind your device’s coolness.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard near the bottom of your device. When it’s time to reconnect those press connectors, line them up carefully and press down on one side until it clicks, then do the same on the other. Avoid pressing on the middle to prevent bending the pins—bending is bad news. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.

– Gently pop up those main and auxiliary flex cables from the motherboard using your trusty spudger. One smooth move and they’re free!

– Carefully lift and slide out the main and auxiliary flex cables—like you’re removing spaghetti from a bowl, but way less messy.

– Gently pop up the left 5G antenna cable and unplug it from the motherboard—easy does it!

– Gently lift up and unplug the main display flex cable from the motherboard. Easy does it, but make sure it’s fully disconnected before moving on.

– Carefully lift and flex the display and left 5G antenna cables aside, making sure they don’t block access to the motherboard or battery.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the four 3.9 mm screws holding down the upper midframe. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and pop it into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe. Give it a gentle twist to unclip those stubborn clips.

– Lift off the upper midframe and set it aside like a pro.

– Gently lift and disconnect the right 5G antenna flex cable from the motherboard—think of it as unplugging a little spaghetti noodle.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and nudge that cable out of the motherboard’s way, like you’re clearing a dance floor for the next move.

– Gently pry up the side button flex cable to unplug it from the motherboard. No wrestling moves needed.

– Swing the cable out of the way so the motherboard has some breathing room.

– Gently pop up the front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard—like opening a stubborn jar, but with way less mess.

– Swing that cable away from the motherboard so it’s not photobombing your next repair move.

– Gently pop up and unplug the upper 5G antenna cable from the motherboard.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax up the corner of the 5G millimeter wave antenna module. It’s like a little surprise waiting to be uncovered!

– Time to say goodbye to the 5G antenna module. It served you well!

– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure to connect that 5G antenna first. It’s like getting the first piece of a puzzle just right! Then, give the rest of the antenna module a solid press to make sure it’s snug and secure. You’ve got this!

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully remove the pair of 3.9 mm screws holding down the motherboard and camera assembly. Easy does it—you’re well on your way to the next step. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide the tip of your spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly and gently lever it up—think of it like popping open a stubborn jar, but cooler.

– Lift out the motherboard assembly. Go slow and steady, and let gravity help you out.

– Gently lift and disconnect the ultrawide camera connector from the motherboard. Keep things careful and friendly—you’re doing great! If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift and unplug the telephoto and wide-angle camera connectors from the motherboard with a dash of finesse.

– Flip the motherboard assembly over, then gently pop up and disconnect the depth sensor connector from the motherboard.

– Gently lift out the rear camera module—like you’re removing a jewel from a crown.

– Double-check your new part next to the original—sometimes there’s a little leftover adhesive or a sneaky component that needs transferring.

– Ready to put it all back together? Just reverse the steps and watch your device come back to life.

– Once you’re done, run through our guide to make sure everything’s working smoothly.

– Old parts lying around? Keep the planet happy and drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Stuck or things got weird? The Answers community is loaded with troubleshooting tips, or you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of the phone, aiming for the very bottom center for best grip.

– Pull steadily on the suction cup—no need to go Hulk on it—just firm and consistent to create a little space between the back cover and the frame.

– Gently slip the tip of an opening pick into that gap and you’re all set to get things started.