Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra Screen and Battery Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
This guide covers swapping out both your screen and battery assembly. Let’s get your device back in action!
Ready to give your Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra a fresh start with a new screen and battery assembly? This step-by-step guide walks you through replacing the whole package—the screen, battery, and frame, all in one. Double-check that you’ve got the correct assembly before diving in. Quick heads up: the upper 5G mmWave antenna isn’t interchangeable between US (908U) and international (908B/E) frames, so match up your model! After you finish, your phone’s water resistance depends on how well you stick things back together, but the official IP rating will be history. Take your time, follow along, and you’ve got this! If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
No worries if you accidentally poked the SIM eject tool into the microphone hole! Chances are, your microphone is just fine and ready to keep picking up all those sweet sounds.
- Let's get started by inserting a SIM eject tool, or even a straightened paper clip, into the tiny hole on the bottom edge of your phone - it's time to set that SIM card free!
- Gently push the SIM eject tool into the hole until the SIM card tray pops out - you're making great progress!
- Now, simply remove the SIM card tray and you'll be one step closer to getting your phone up and running again.
Step 2
Get ready for a slight surprise - the stylus is about to make a partial appearance!
- Give that button at the bottom of the stylus a gentle press.
- Slide the stylus out like a pro!
Step 3
- Warm up your iOpener and set it on the right edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes.
Make sure your phone's battery dips below 25% before diving into this repair. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit fiery if it gets nicked, so it's best to have it a little drained first.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can do the trick, but watch out for overheating—your phone’s display and battery aren’t fans of high heat. Keep it gentle and steady to avoid damage. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 4
The glue is basically flexing its muscles in the bottom right and top left corners—give those spots a little extra love.
- While the adhesive is getting nice and toasty, here’s a heads-up:
- Sticky stuff holds the back cover all the way around the edge of the frame.
Step 5
If the gap just won't budge, go ahead and warm things up a bit more to loosen that stubborn adhesive. Keep an eye on the iOpener instructions so things don’t get too toasty.
- Stick the suction handle on the back cover, aiming for the center along the right edge—like you're giving it a high-five.
- Pull up on that handle with a steady, confident grip to open up a gap between the cover and the frame. You’ve got this!
- Slide an opening pick into the gap. Take it slow; steady hands win the race.
Tools Used
Step 6
- Gently slide the pick along the right edge, working back and forth to cut through the adhesive. Keep the pick inserted near the bottom of the right edge to help prevent the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need help at any point, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 7
- Warm up your iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic!
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Step 8
Take it easy when you're cutting around the corners—this glass is super delicate right here. Go slow and steady to keep it in one piece!
- Time to get this repair started! Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner, making sure it's snug and secure.
- Now, gently angle the pick upward to match the curved edge, and rotate it around the bottom right corner - you're making great progress!
Step 9
- Slide your opening pick down to the bottom left corner to cut through that sticky adhesive. Nice and easy does it!
- Keep the pick chilling in the bottom left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together while you work.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give the left edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug!
Tools Used
Step 11
Take it easy around those corners—the glass gets extra delicate here. Go slow and steady to keep things in one piece!
- Slip a third opening pick into the bottom left corner—like you're sneaking in a secret handshake.
- Tilt the pick up to follow the curve, then spin it around the bottom corner like you're tracing a funky dance move.
Step 12
When inserting, keep it gentle—just up to 5 mm. Pushing too far could bend or damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable. Take it slow, and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge, slicing through the adhesive. Keep going until you reach the power button. Then, leave that pick in place on the edge to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 13
- Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 14
Take it easy around those corners—the glass is extra delicate there. Slow and steady keeps things in one piece!
- Slide an opening pick into the gap at the top right edge—like sneaking a slice of cake before dinner.
- Tilt the pick upward to follow the curve, then gently spin it around the top right corner. Smooth moves!
Step 15
Keep the pick shallow—no more than 4 mm—or you might accidentally poke the cameras or sensors. Let's keep the tiny tech safe!
- Use the pick to gently slide into the top left corner to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick in place afterward to prevent the adhesive from sticking back together. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than 4 mm—or you’ll risk giving the cameras an unexpected makeover!
- Slip an opening pick into the gap at the top left corner—like sliding into the DMs, but for your device.
- Tilt the pick up to follow that smooth, curved edge and give it a gentle spin around the top left corner.
Step 17
Keep the pick shallow—no more than 4 mm! Any deeper, and you might give those cameras an unwanted close-up.
- Glide that pick down toward the bottom camera, slicing through the last bits of sticky stuff. Pause before you hit the power button—no need to get wild at the finish line!
Step 18
If your cover is still sticking to the frame, grab an opening pick and gently slide it around the edges until the cover pops off completely. Take your time—patience is key here. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
- Pop off that back cover and set it aside.
- When you're putting things back together:
- Now’s a good moment to fire up your phone and make sure everything works before you seal it up. Once you’ve checked, shut it down completely before moving on.
- Clear away any leftover adhesive chunks with tweezers or your fingers. If the sticky stuff is stubborn, a little heat helps loosen it up.
- Using custom-cut adhesives? Check out Salvation Repair’s guide for the details.
- Double-sided tape your thing? Salvation Repair has a guide for that too.
Step 19
Watch out for that display interconnect cable hanging out on the right side of the charging coil! Give it some love and avoid any pulling or tearing. You've got this!
The wireless charging coil is lightly attached to the battery, just hanging out there, waiting for you to gently detach it. No big deal, just handle with care and you'll be good to go!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery. You've got this!
- Carefully glide the pick along the right edge to break that sticky adhesive apart. You're on a roll!
Step 20
- Time to get started! Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully pry and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard. Take your time and work gently.
- Next up, repeat the same process for the wireless charging coil press connector. You got this!
To reconnect the press connectors, gently line them up and press down on one side until it clicks — then do the same on the other. Avoid pressing in the middle, as misaligning the pins can lead to bent contacts and some serious damage. Take your time, keep it gentle, and if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the five 3.5 mm screws holding down the NFC antenna and charging coil.
Step 22
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the six 3.5 mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place. Let’s make those screws history!
Step 23
Avoid prying directly on the battery—use those handy frame protrusions for leverage instead. Keeps everything safe and sound!
- Let's get started by carefully inserting the pointed end of your trusty spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame - it's time to set that speaker free!
- Gently pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame. Take your time and be patient, it's a delicate process.
- When you're putting everything back together, make sure to press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to secure it to the frame. You're doing great!
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Step 24
The wireless charging coil is the glue holding these parts together—like a backstage crew making sure everything stays connected.
- Carefully take out the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame. You've got this!
Step 25
- Grab your spudger, aim for the battery press connector, and pop it loose with the pointed end. Battery’s taking a break now.
Tools Used
Step 26
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pop up the lower 5G mmWave antenna connector—just a little nudge is all it takes!
Tools Used
Step 27
- Let's get started! Use your trusty Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5mm-long screws that are holding the antenna bracket in place. This is a breeze, and you're already making progress!
Step 28
- Gently wedge your spudger between the bottom screw mount of the antenna bracket and the frame, giving it a little persuasion.
- Carefully pry up on the bracket until you can grab it easily with blunt nose tweezers or your fingers—no need to be forceful.
- Lift out the lower 5G mmWave antenna to free it from its spot.
Tools Used
Step 29
- If you’ve got a fresh bracket ready for the lower 5G mmWave antenna, swap it in now. No worries if you don’t—just cruise right past this step.
- Pop the antenna and its connector off the old bracket. It’s like giving them a quick ticket out.
- Peel off the L-shaped adhesive liner from your shiny new bracket. Satisfying, right?
- Nestle the antenna into the bracket’s snug little nook, making sure the connector slips under the longer screw mount.
- Now, peel away that skinny adhesive liner on the bracket’s outside edge before popping it back into the frame.
Step 30
- Gently take the pointed end of your spudger and carefully wiggle it under the upper 5G mmWave antenna press connector to disconnect it. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
If the antenna’s feeling stubborn, warm things up with a heated iOpener for a couple minutes to loosen that clingy adhesive.
- Slide the spudger’s pointy end into the crack between the lower edge of the 5G mmWave antenna and the board like you’re opening a tiny, stubborn envelope.
- Gently pop the antenna up until you can pinch it with your fingers or snag it with blunt tweezers—no hero moves needed.
- Lift the top 5G mmWave antenna out and set it aside; you’ve just freed the little guy.
Step 32
- Stick on some fresh adhesive to the upper 5G mmWave antenna before popping it back in. No new adhesive? No worries—reuse the old one or get creative with custom-cut strips.
- Peel off the old adhesive from the antenna using blunt nose tweezers or just your fingers. No need to be fancy.
- Take off the clear liner from your new adhesive—let's get sticky.
- Place the new adhesive on the bottom of the antenna. Make sure the round end is pointing away from the connector like it’s got somewhere to be.
- Before you settle the antenna back in the frame, remove the green liner from the adhesive. Now you’re ready to finish up.
Step 33
- Grab the pointed end of your spudger and gently pry up the main interconnect cable from the motherboard to disconnect it. Then, do the same for the secondary interconnect, which is located to the left of the primary cable. Keep at it, and if you need some extra help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 34
- With the pointed end of your spudger, gently pop up and disconnect the main interconnect cable from the charging board. It’s like unplugging tiny Lego pieces—just a little wiggle and lift.
- Do the same trick for the secondary interconnect cable. One more gentle lift and you’re good to go!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Gently unplug and lift out those interconnect cables from the frame—like you're giving them a little vacation.
Step 36
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the three screws (they’re each 3.5 mm long) that hold the charging board in place.
Step 37
- Let's get this repair started! Insert the pointed end of your trusty spudger under the charging board, right across from the USB-C port.
- Gently pry the charging board up from its cozy little recess until you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab the charging board by its corners and gently slide it out of its slot in the frame—think of it as a little game of slide and seek.
- Pull out the charging board carefully—no need to rush, it’s just hanging out waiting to be freed.
- When putting things back together, angle the charging board downward as you slide it in; this helps guide the USB-C port into its cozy little recess. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 39
- Grab your spudger and use its pointed end to gently pop up and disconnect the press connector for the laser autofocus module. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 40
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the three screws (they’re 3.5 mm long) holding down the motherboard cover. Easy does it!
Step 41
- Slide the sharp end of your spudger into the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover, right where it meets the frame.
- Gently pry up on the cover to pop it free from the frame.
- Carefully take out the motherboard cover along with the laser AF module.
- When putting everything back together, give the cover a good press down to lock those clips into place on the frame.
Tools Used
Step 42
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pop up the front-facing camera connector—like giving it a little wave hello before it takes a break.
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Step 43
- Grab your spudger and gently pop up the fingerprint reader connector—like opening a tiny treasure chest.
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Step 44
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift and disconnect the screen press connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 45
- Grab the pointed end of your spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the stylus's press connector. Easy does it—just a little lift and wiggle to free it up.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out that 3.5 mm-long screw that's holding the motherboard in place. You're doing great!
Step 47
- Gently slide the pointed end of your spudger into the gap between the top left of the motherboard and the frame.
- Once you're in there, give it a little nudge and lift the motherboard until you can grab it with your fingers.
Tools Used
Step 48
Watch out for any stray cables—they love to get in the way when you least expect it!
- Pick up the motherboard by its left edge and gently lift it out of the frame.
- When it's time to put everything back together, make sure the cables are resting above the motherboard as you slide it back in.
Step 49
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the two 3.2 mm screws holding in the earpiece speaker and vibration motor. Easy does it—you're almost there! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 50
- Slide the flat end of your spudger carefully beneath the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and vibration motor. Gently pry up the earpiece speaker and vibration motor from their recess and lift them out. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 51
If you're using a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, be sure to keep an eye on the temperature—your phone's display doesn't love too much heat. Keep things cozy, not toasty, to avoid any damage.
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it onto the top of the screen for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up for the next step. If you need a hand along the way, just schedule a repair.
Step 52
The adhesive holding the camera is pretty stubborn. Take your time, work gently, and if it feels like it's not giving, apply a bit more heat to loosen things up. Be careful not to pull the circuit board away from the camera housing—patience is key here.
If the camera isn’t budging, grab your SIM card eject tool and gently scrape away any stubborn epoxy hanging around the camera.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the pointed end to lift the front-facing camera out of its cozy spot. Take it slow, no need to rush—this little step will go smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 53
Take your time and go gentle—ripping that delicate cable isn't the move. Work slowly, and you'll avoid any accidental tears.
- Grab your trusty blunt nose tweezers and gently lift the front-facing camera out of its spot. Easy does it!
Step 54
No need to worry about this liner—just skip it and keep on cruising through the repair!
- Time to prep your new frame for the front-facing camera magic:
- Lift off that black adhesive liner from the camera spot—don’t be shy!
- Peel away the foam liner from the fresh frame. Give it a little wiggle if it’s stubborn.
Step 55
- Get ready to stick it! Before popping in that front-facing camera, lay down some fresh adhesives on both the frame and the camera itself:
- Peel off the two big clear rectangular liners from the adhesive sheet and slap those adhesives onto the sides of the camera area.
- Next, take the liner off the main adhesive piece and set it right in the middle of the camera recess, making sure the pull tab points toward the bottom of the frame.
- Clear off any leftover sticky bits from the camera module—no gunk allowed.
- Finally, peel the liner from the skinny adhesive strip and stick it right along the top edge of the camera.
Step 56
- Pop in the front-facing camera:
- Peel off those four blue adhesive liners from the camera and the frame. (Yes, all of them. Trust us.)
- Slide the front-facing camera into its cozy spot in the frame and give it a gentle press to make sure it sticks.
Step 57
- Grab your spudger by the pointed end and gently pry up to disconnect the display cable's press connector. Keep it careful but confident—you're making progress! If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 58
- Let's get started by carefully grabbing and removing the display cable from the frame.
Step 59
- Ready to put it all back together? Just follow the steps in reverse and your device should be back in action.
- Got old parts or electronics hanging around? Drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give them a new lease on life.
- Hit a snag? Swing by our Answers community for some repair wisdom, or if things get really tricky, you can always schedule a repair.