Samsung Galaxy S20 Plus Earpiece Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 39 Steps
Ready to give your Galaxy S20 Plus a little makeover? Replacing the earpiece speaker is totally doable! While it's not absolutely necessary to remove the motherboard, doing so will definitely make the whole process smoother and way easier. Let's get that speaker swapped out with less hassle!
Step 1
No worries if your tool ended up in the other hole—the microphone and its gasket are chilling safely out of range.
- Grab a SIM eject tool, a paperclip straightened out, or a bit, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray—it's usually on the top edge of the phone, right next to the plastic antenna band.
- Give it a firm press to pop the tray out and get ready for the next step.
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Step 2
The SIM card is going to pop right out of the tray without any fuss.
- Take out the SIM card tray. When you pop the SIM card back in, make sure it's oriented correctly—no upside-down surprises! There's a skinny rubber gasket around the tray that keeps water and dust out—if it's torn or missing, swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your device happy and healthy. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.
Step 3
Before you dive in, make sure your phone is totally powered down and unplugged. Safety first—nobody needs surprise zaps!
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can do the trick, just make sure you don’t turn up the heat too high—both your phone’s display and battery are pretty fragile when it comes to warmth. Keep it cool and steady, and you're golden!
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the back cover’s bottom edge for about two minutes to loosen things up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 4
Easy does it with the pick—if you get too wild, the back cover glass might crack.
If your display's cracked pretty badly, try covering it with some clear packing tape. It’ll give the suction cup a bit of a grip. If you’re not feeling that, you can swap the suction cup for some really strong tape. If nothing’s working, a little superglue on the suction cup can help it stick to the shattered glass.
This can take a bit of patience – you'll likely need to reheat with the iOpener and give the suction cup another try before it finally works.
If you’re struggling to create that gap, just add a little more heat to the edges and try again. Sometimes, a little extra warmth does the trick.
- Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the bottom edge.
- Give the suction cup a confident pull—steady and strong—to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame.
- Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made.
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Step 5
Heads up! Avoid slicing near the corners where the glass curves—getting too close could give your phone an accidental crack you definitely don’t want.
- Wiggle your pick along the bottom edge like you’re slicing a digital cake—this cuts through the sticky stuff holding things together.
- Keep your pick chilling in the gap so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 6
- Warm up the left side of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a couple of minutes.
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Step 7
Go easy with the pick—too much muscle and the glass might just decide to crack on you.
Getting the fit just right can take a few tries, so hang in there!
The glass here is curved, so you won't be able to push the pick in very far. If the tip is under the edge, you're good to go.
If the gap's not happening, hit the edge with a bit more heat and give it another shot.
- Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the center along the left edge—precision points for style.
- Give the suction cup a steady, confident pull to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to break out the superhero muscles, just keep it firm.
- Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you created, like you're unlocking a secret level.
- Feeling a little resistance? A few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the seam can help persuade that stubborn adhesive to let go.
Step 8
- Once the pick slips under the edge of the glass, tilt it down and keep pushing to loosen the adhesive, helping the back cover come free.
Step 9
Heads up! When you're sliding near the ridge around the volume and power buttons, go easy—this spot's glass cutout is a bit more likely to crack.
- Glide the pick along the left edge of your phone and let it do its thing—separating that stubborn adhesive from the back cover.
- Leave your pick chilling under the left side of the glass, so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and stick itself again.
Step 10
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to loosen things up, but keep it chill—too much heat can mess with the screen or battery. Take it slow and avoid turning your phone into a mini-sauna!
- Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as giving your device a cozy spa moment before we get to work.
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Step 11
Now it's time to get that opening pick fully underneath the backColumnsMode cover. To do this, you'll needupon to tilt it downward, just like you didearlier, to make sure it slides in smoothly.
- Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the right edge—like you’re giving your phone a little badge of honor.
- Give the suction cup a solid pull—think strong, steady, and determined—to pop a gap between the back cover and the frame.
- Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made. You’ve got this!
Step 12
As you do this, the back cover might pop off one or both of the picks, letting them fall free. If that happens, just set them aside. The bottom edge won't reseal from here, so no worries, you're on the right track!
- Gently slide your pick along the right edge of the phone to loosen the back cover's adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady to avoid any cracks or snags.
- Tuck your pick under the top right corner of the glass near the edge to stop the adhesive from sealing back up as you work. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 13
- Grab your trusty iOpener and warm it up! Place it on the top edge of the back cover and let it work its magic for two minutes. You're doing great!
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Step 14
The glass around the corners of the back cover has a bit of a curve and is quite prone to cracking. So, take it easy during this step to keep your back cover safe and sound!
If you hit a snag and the slicing gets stubborn, just take a breather, reheat a bit, and go at it again. Patience makes the magic happen—salvation repair style!
- Carefully work that pick from the right edge of your device, around the top right corner, like you're navigating a rollercoaster ride.
- Keep on slicing across the top edge until you reach the left side, pulling that back cover adhesive apart like a champ!
Step 15
- Gently lift the back cover—no need to rush! Use your opening picks to cut through any leftover adhesive like a pro.
- Take off the back cover and set it aside. You’re making progress!
- While putting things back together:
- Now’s a smart time to turn your phone on and check that everything works before sealing it shut. When you’re done testing, power it off completely before moving on.
- Clear away any stubborn adhesive bits using tweezers or your fingers. If the adhesive isn’t letting go, a little heat can help loosen things up.
- If you’re working with custom-cut adhesives, check out Salvation Repair’s guide.
- If double-sided tape is your weapon of choice, Salvation Repair’s got a guide for that too.
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Step 16
Give each screw a VIP treatment—keep tabs on where they belong and make sure they return to their original hangout.
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out those six 4 mm screws holding the motherboard bracket in place.
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Step 17
Hang tight—don’t yank the bracket off just yet! It’s still hanging on to the wireless charging coil.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe. Just a gentle tug is all it takes—no need to force it. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 18
- Carefully lift the motherboard bracket to reveal the orange battery connector, making it easy to access.
Step 19
When you're unplugging connectors like these, watch out for those tiny components huddled around the socket—nobody wants a surprise domino effect!
- Grab a spudger and gently pry up the battery connector to disconnect it. Keep it smooth and steady—no force needed. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 20
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the connector for the wireless charging coil—easy does it!
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Step 21
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift the wireless charging coil away from the device. Take it slow, we don’t want any accidents!
- Gently remove the wireless charging coil, being cautious not to damage any surrounding components.
- When you're putting everything back together, first reconnect the charging coil and battery connectors. Then, tighten up those motherboard bracket screws to keep everything in place. Finally, press down the coil pad to make sure it sticks and aligns perfectly.
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Step 22
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five 4 mm screws holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe in place.
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Step 24
- Grab a spudger and gently pry up and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard near the bottom of the device—think of it as giving them a little nudge. When it’s time to reconnect those press connectors, align them carefully and press down on one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Never press down in the middle—misaligning the pins can cause permanent damage, and nobody wants that. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair to get expert help.
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Step 25
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main and auxiliary flex cables to disconnect them from the motherboard. Easy does it—you're making great progress!
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Step 26
- Carefully lift and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables. Take your time, but don’t worry, you’ve got this!
Step 27
- Gently lift and disconnect the left 5G antenna cable from the motherboard to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 28
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently work it under the main display flex cable. With a little finesse, disconnect it from the motherboard. You're doing great!
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Step 29
- Gently peel back and bend the display and left 5G antenna flex cables away from the motherboard and battery, giving yourself some wiggle room to work with.
Step 30
- Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the three 4 mm-long screws holding down the upper midframe. Easy does it—just a gentle twist to free it up.
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Step 31
- Slide the point of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe and gently pry upward to pop the clips loose. Once it's free, lift out the upper midframe. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 33
- Gently lift and unplug the side button flex cable from the motherboard. Be careful, it's like a little dance move, but with wires.
- Now, carefully bend the cable out of the motherboard's way. Think of it as giving your device a little more breathing room.
Step 34
- Lift up and unplug that front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard—like you're disconnecting a tiny phone call.
- Gently nudge the cable aside so it’s not blocking the motherboard’s path.
Step 35
- Gently lift and pop off the upper 5G antenna cable from the motherboard—like unplugging a tiny, high-tech seatbelt!
Step 36
The module is held in place with a bit of adhesive, but it should pop right off without much fuss.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the corner of the 5G millimeter wave antenna module—think of it as giving it a little encouragement.
- Lift out the 5G antenna module like you’re removing a VIP from a party.
- When putting things back together, start by snapping the 5G antenna connector in place to line it up right, then press the rest of the module down so it sticks and stays put.
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Step 37
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the two screws holding the motherboard and camera assembly in place.
- One screw is 4 mm long.
- The other is 3.4 mm long.
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Step 38
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly and give it a gentle pry to loosen it from the phone body. Once it’s loose, carefully lift out the motherboard assembly. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 39
The earpiece speaker is stuck in a pretty tight spot and is held down with some strong adhesive. If you're having trouble prying it loose, try applying a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (we're talking over 90% here) to help soften things up. This should make it easier to get under the speaker and lift it out.
- You made it! Compare your shiny new replacement part to the original to make sure everything is in order. You might need to swap over some extra components or〖remove any adhesive backing from the Disney new part〗 before extend installing.
- <|start_header_id|>Now it's time〖to　ｌ put everything back together again〗. Just follow the steps above in reverse order, nice and easy.
- Give yourself a high-five! After you've finished the repair, head over to our testing guide to make sure everything is working smoothly.
- Don't forget to responsibly recycle your old parts. Find an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give them a visit.
- If things didn't quite go as planned, don't worry! Check out our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips. And if you're really stuck, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros at Salvation Repair.
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