Samsung Galaxy S20 Plus Front-Facing Camera Module Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 25 Steps
Ready to swap out the front-facing camera on your Galaxy S20 Plus? Just a heads-up: removing the camera module can be a bit tricky and there's a chance you might damage it if you're not careful. If you want to keep your camera intact for reuse, proceed gently and pay close attention to all warnings. You'll also need some fresh adhesive to get everything back in place smoothly. If you hit a snag or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before you dive in, make sure your phone is powered off and unplugged. Safety first, tech hero!
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate will do the trick—just watch the temperature! Too much heat can mess with your screen or battery, and nobody wants that.
- Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes.
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Step 2
Go easy with the pick—too much muscle and the back glass could end up a jigsaw puzzle.
Got a screen that looks like it went a few rounds with a cheese grater? Slap on some clear packing tape—this helps the suction cup stick. Super strong tape works as a substitute for the suction cup, and if things get wild, a little superglue can save the day (just on the suction cup, not your fingers).
Getting the screen loose takes patience. You might need to reheat the edge with your iOpener and try the suction cup a few times before you get that sweet separation.
If the gap’s not happening, hit the edge with more heat and give it another go.
- Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the bottom edge—like you're giving your phone a little belly button.
- Give the suction cup a confident pull so you open up a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to arm wrestle, just keep it steady.
- Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you've created. It's like sneaking a backstage pass for your phone's inner workings.
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Step 3
Steer clear of slicing the adhesive near the phone’s curved corners—getting too close to the glass could end with a crack, and nobody wants that kind of drama.
- Gently glide the pick along the bottom edge, back and forth, to break through that sticky adhesive barrier.
- Once you've made some progress, keep the pick in the gap to stop that adhesive from sealing back up. You're doing great!
Step 4
- Warm up that trusty iOpener and give the left edge of the back cover a cozy hug for two minutes.
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Step 5
Go easy with that pick—no need to play Hulk! Too much muscle can crack the back cover glass.
Patience is key here—those snug edges might take a few tries to pop loose.
The glass curves along this side, so don't stress about getting the pick in deep. Even if just the tip slides under the edge, you're on track.
If that gap refuses to show up, crank up the heat and give it another shot.
- Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the left side.
- Give the suction cup a good, steady pull to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame.
- Slide the pointy end of an opening pick into the gap you've created.
- If the adhesive is stubborn, a few drops of high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the seam can loosen things up.
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Step 6
- Once the pick is tucked under the edge of the glass, give it a gentle tilt downward and work it in further. This helps to fully loosen the adhesive holding the back cover. Keep at it until it's free—salvation repair is here to help if you get stuck.
Step 7
Go easy when sliding near the ridge around the volume and power buttons—the glass cutout can be a little drama queen and loves to crack if you get too rough.
- Carefully glide the pick along the left side of the phone to break the hold of the back cover's adhesive.
- Keep that pick tucked under the edge of the glass to stop the adhesive from making a sticky comeback.
Step 8
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or even a hot plate to warm things up—just don’t go wild with the heat. Too much and your display or battery might throw a tantrum.
- Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Let it get nice and toasty—your phone’s about to get the spa treatment.
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Step 9
Just like before, angle that opening pick down a bit so it slides all the way under the back cover.
- Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the right edge.
- Give that suction cup a confident pull—steady and strong—to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame.
- Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made.
Step 10
As you work your magic, the back cover might just decide to let go of one or both of those trusty picks, sending them on a little adventure. If that happens, no worries! Just set those picks aside because from here on out, the bottom edge is not going back to its old ways.
- Gently glide your pick along the right edge of the phone to break free the adhesive holding the back cover in place.
- Once you've made some progress, tuck that pick under the right edge of the glass near the top to keep the adhesive from getting cozy again.
Step 11
- Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.
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Step 12
The glass near the corners of the back cover is a bit curvy and very prone to cracking. Handle with care during this step to avoid any damage.
If it starts feeling like you're arm-wrestling the device instead of slicing, take a break and hit it with some more heat before you keep going.
- Gently glide the pick from the right edge of your device, making your way around the top right corner like a pro.
- Keep slicing along the top edge, all the way to the left edge, until the back cover adhesive is completely separated. You've got this!
Step 13
- Gently lift the back cover—don’t rush it! Slide an opening pick along the edges to free up any stubborn adhesive.
- Take off the back cover and set it aside.
- When you’re putting things back together:
- This is the perfect moment to power up your device and check that everything’s working before you seal it shut. Just remember to turn it off completely before moving on.
- Clear away any leftover adhesive with tweezers or your fingers. If it’s being clingy, a little heat can help loosen things up.
- Using custom-cut adhesives? You can follow Salvation Repair’s guide for a smooth application.
- Going with double-sided tape? There’s a guide for that too, courtesy of Salvation Repair.
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Step 14
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out those six 4 mm screws hanging onto the motherboard bracket—let’s give it some freedom!
As you go along, keep tabs on every screw—think of it as your own personal treasure hunt. Make sure each one finds its way back home exactly where it belongs. Staying organized keeps things moving smoothly and saves you from a screw mystery later on. When in doubt, take a quick picture or set screws aside in a labeled container. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 15
Hold your horses! Don't take that bracket off just yet; it's still hanging out with the wireless charging coil.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift up the motherboard bracket—just unclip it from the plastic midframe. Easy does it!
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Step 16
- Carefully lift the motherboard bracket, just enough to make the orange battery connector visible and ready for action.
Step 17
Be super cautious when unplugging connectors like these – we wouldn't want those tiny surface-mounted components around the socket to go flying off on their own adventure!
- Grab a spudger and gently work it under the battery connector to carefully disconnect it.
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Step 18
- Grab your spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector. Easy does it—steady hands win the day!
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Step 19
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil away from the device—think of it as peeling a sticker, but way cooler. Next, carefully remove the coil completely. When you’re putting everything back together, first reconnect the charging coil and battery connectors, then tighten the screws on the motherboard bracket to keep things aligned. Finally, press down firmly on the coil pad to make sure it sticks well—salvation repair is all about that solid connection. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 20
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and let's get to work! Remove those three little 4 mm-long screws holding the upper midframe in place. It's easier than it sounds, and you've got this!
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Step 21
- Take that trusty spudger and gently slide its pointed end into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe. Give it a little pry to pop those clips loose and free it up.
- Now, go ahead and lift off the upper midframe. You're doing great!
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Step 22
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard. It’s like giving your phone a little high five—just don’t get too rowdy.
- When reconnecting, line up the connector carefully and press down one edge until you hear a satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Skip pressing in the middle—those pins are delicate! Misalignment could mean bent pins, and that’s just bad news for everyone.
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Step 23
- Dab some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol around the front-facing camera area to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. Think of it as giving the glue a little spa treatment.
- Let it sit for a minute or two so the alcohol can work its magic and soften that adhesive, making your next steps smoother sailing.
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Step 24
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The camera module is stuck pretty good with a strong, rubbery adhesive. If it's refusing to budge even after a little alcohol treatment, grab a craft or utility knife to carefully cut through the adhesive. Just be careful not to cause any damage while doing this!
If you want to keep the camera working, you can try gently reseating the sensor hardware into its plastic casing before you cut and pry. Alternatively, you can continue to the next step and reseat the sensor after removing the casing.
- Slide the flat end of your spudger under the bottom edge of the front-facing camera module and gently pop it loose.
- Lift out the front-facing camera module—don’t worry, it’s not shy.
- If the old adhesive still looks sticky, you can reuse it. Want a fresh start? Swap it out with a pre-cut adhesive sheet.
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Step 25
Give the alcohol a minute or two to work its magic and loosen up that sticky adhesive.
- If you've taken out the camera module's insides without the plastic shell, a few drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol around the edges can help loosen that stubborn adhesive. Then, grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the plastic camera casing away. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.
