iPhone 14 Pro Max Taptic Engine Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to make sure your battery is below 25% before diving into the disassembly of your device. Safety first, rockstar!
The Taptic Engine is what makes your iPhone buzz and feel responsive with haptic feedback. This guide walks you through removing and replacing the Taptic Engine in an iPhone 14 Pro Max, specifically the A2894 (international) model. If your iPhone 14 Pro Max is a different variant, things might look a bit different, but the steps stay the same. Before you dive in, make sure to drain your battery below 25%—this helps lower the fire risk if the battery gets damaged during the process. If your battery looks swollen, handle it with extra care. You'll need some replacement adhesive to stick the screen back on when you're done. Your phone will work just like before, but it might lose its water and dust resistance (IP rating).
Step 1
- First things first, let's power down your iPhone before we dive into the disassembly fun!
- Next up, grab your trusty screwdriver and remove those two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws chilling at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
Step 2
If you push the pick in too deep, it could hurt your device. Mark the pick to avoid going too far and causing damage.
Feel free to add marks on the other corners of your pick with different measurements for extra precision.
Another option: Tape a coin to your pick about 3 mm from the tip to keep things in check.
- Grab your opening pick and, starting from the tip, measure out 3 mm—then give it a bold mark with your permanent marker. Precision is key, and your marked pick will be your trusty sidekick for the next steps!
Step 3
Don those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any sneaky glass shards that might decide to escape during the repair.
Got a cracked screen on your iPhone? No worries! Just grab some tape and cover that glass to keep any shards in check and stay safe while you tackle the repair.
If you're really in a pinch, a little superglue can do wonders—just stick that suction cup right onto the screen!
- Start by covering the iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it's completely sealed. It’s like giving your phone a nice, protective layer of tape armor.
- If the suction cup isn't cooperating, grab a sturdy piece of tape (think duct tape), fold it into a handle, and use that to gently lift the screen. It's a clever workaround that’ll do the job.
Tools Used
Step 4
Ready for some hands-on action? The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp, a nifty tool we cooked up to make popping open your device way smoother. If the Anti-Clamp isn’t in your toolkit, just hop ahead three steps for a different way to get things open.
Want the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out our guide for all the details.
If your iPhone’s surface is slicker than a greased watermelon and the Anti-Clamp keeps slipping, slap on some tape to give it a little extra grip.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide the arms onto either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
- Set the suction cups near the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front and one on the back.
- Press the cups together to create a good suction grip on the area.
Step 5
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull towards you to secure those arms like a champ!
- Now, twist that handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch – you got this!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they're staying in sync. If they start drifting apart, just loosen them a bit and bring the arms back into harmony.
Step 6
Turn no more than a quarter turn at once, then take a breather for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do their magic!
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, just warm it up a bit more and twist the handle a quarter turn to get things moving.
- Give your iPhone a cozy spot on something solid, like a sturdy hardcover book, so it's comfortably resting hands-free and nice and level; this will make your life a whole lot easier in the next steps.
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up that bottom edge of the iPhone. It should feel just a tad too hot to touch, but not enough to roast your fingers!
- Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little opening gap.
- When the Anti-Clamp creates a big enough gap, gently slide an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel.
- Feel free to skip the next two steps.
Tools Used
Step 7
Keep that hair dryer moving! Don't let it linger in one spot for too long, or you might end up with an unexpected hair-raising situation.
If you've got a suction handle in hand, let's glide into the next two steps to give that screen a little nudge!
- Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and give the bottom edge of your iPhone a warm hug for about 90 seconds, or until it’s just a tad too hot to handle.
Tools Used
Step 8
That adhesive is seriously stubborn—getting that first gap open takes some muscle! If the screen’s playing hard to get, heat it up a bit more, then gently wiggle it up and down to soften the glue. Keep at it until you’ve got just enough space to slide in your opening pick and keep going.
- Stick a suction handle onto the lower edge of the screen—keep it a little bit away from the very edge so it holds tight.
- Give the suction cup a gentle but steady pull to sneak a tiny gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slip an opening pick into that gap, aiming under the screen's plastic bezel. Take your time and watch your angles!
Tools Used
Step 9
- Grab a hair dryer and give the right edge of your iPhone (the side with the power button) a warm-up for about 90 seconds, or until it feels just a tad too toasty to touch. Think of it as a little spa treatment for your phone!
Tools Used
Step 10
Keep your pick to a maximum of 3 mm deep—going any further could lead to some unintentional damage to those delicate internal components. You've got this!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPhone to start loosening that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep sliding the pick up along the right edge until you reach the top right corner—smooth moves here!
- Once you’re at the top right corner, leave the pick in place before moving on to the next step.
Step 11
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the top edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until the screen feels just a bit too toasty to keep your fingers on.
Tools Used
Step 12
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—or you might poke the sensors up top where they don’t want to be poked!
- Gently slide your pick under the top right edge of the phone, then cruise it around the corner and halfway across the top edge—just stop shy of the earpiece speaker cut-out to keep things safe and sound.
Step 13
- Grab your trusty hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPhone a warm hug for about 90 seconds, or until it's just past the point of comfort to the touch. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 14
Heads up! There are some super sensitive cables hanging out along the left edge of your iPhone. Skip sliding your pick in here, unless you want those cables to throw a fit.
Step 15
Go easy with the twisting—no need to rush.
If the adhesive is being stubborn, give the left edge another warm-up.
- Slide a second opening pick into the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
- Give both picks a gentle twist at the same time to pop those left edge clips free!
Step 16
If you find yourself without something to prop the screen against, don't worry—your trusty suction handle can step in and save the day!
- Turn your iPhone so the right side is facing you, like you’re about to reveal a secret.
- Gently swing the screen open from the right, as if you’re opening the cover of your favorite book.
- Prop the screen up against something steady so it doesn’t flop over while you work your magic.
- When putting everything back together, rest the screen in place, line up those top clips, and press the top edge in first. If it doesn’t snap in easily, double-check the clips around the edges and make sure none are out of shape.
Tools Used
Step 17
Keep a close eye on every screw you remove and make sure it goes back to its original spot—this little habit keeps your iPhone happy and damage-free.
- Grab your Y000 screwdriver and unscrew the eight screws holding down the battery connector cover. Easy peasy!
- Before sealing the screen back on, it's a great idea to power up your device and test everything. Just remember, power it off completely before diving back into the next steps!
- You'll need six 1.3mm screws to keep things secure.
- Don't forget about that one 1.6mm screw – it's the one that holds the line!
- And last, but not least, make sure that 1.9mm screw is snug in its spot.
Step 18
- Grab the connector cover with some tweezers and gently slide it downward to free up those flex cables.
- Lift off the connector cover.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful around the black silicone seal! It’s there for a reason – protecting your device from dust and water. Handle it gently to keep that extra protection intact while you’re working.
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its sharp end to gently pry the battery cable connector straight out from its cozy little socket.
- Give the connector a slight bend away from the logic board to keep it from accidentally reconnecting and powering up the phone while you're working your magic.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab a spudger and use its sharp end to gently pry the first display cable up from its connector. Just a little nudge should do the trick.
- When you're putting connectors back, make sure to align one side carefully and press it down until you hear a satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle. If the connector isn't lined up just right, the pins might bend, and that's a one-way ticket to a broken part. Take it slow!
Tools Used
Step 21
- Grab the pointy end of your trusty spudger and gently lift the second display cable straight out of its socket—think of it like nudging a shy friend out of a crowd!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Carefully detach the screen.
- Once you've cleaned the areas with some isopropyl alcohol (>90%), go ahead and add fresh adhesive where needed.
- If you're planning to swap out the screen adhesives, now’s a great time to pause and take care of that during reassembly.
Step 23
- Grab your trusty Phillips driver and let’s tackle those four tiny screws holding the loudspeaker in place. They’re just 1.5 mm long, so nothing too daunting here!
- Keep an eye out for three smaller-headed screws that will pop right out.
- And don’t forget about the one larger-headed screw—it's the big boss of the group!
Step 24
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the loudspeaker from the phone’s bottom right corner. Keep it smooth—no need to wrestle with it!
Tools Used
Step 25
- Grab the loudspeaker with a trusty pair of tweezers.
- Gently tilt the loudspeaker to break it free from the adhesive strip that connects to the Taptic Engine.
- Carefully lift out the loudspeaker.
- When you're putting the loudspeaker back, slide it in battery-side first to ensure it aligns perfectly with the adhesive strip.
Tools Used
Step 26
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the Taptic Engine connector straight up to unplug it from its socket – nice and easy, no wiggle room needed!
Tools Used
Step 27
Standoff screws like to keep things interesting! The best way to tackle them is with a dedicated standoff driver or bit. If you’re improvising, a small flathead screwdriver can work—just go slow and steady so it doesn’t slip and cause chaos with nearby parts.
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the two screws holding down the Taptic Engine.
- Next, use a standoff screwdriver to carefully remove the 2.9 mm standoff screw securing the Taptic Engine.
- Remove the 1.8 mm screw.
- Finally, unscrew the 2.3 mm screw.
Step 28
- Grab some tweezers or just your fingers and gently lift out the Taptic Engine.
Tools Used
Step 29
If your replacement part is missing the plastic strip along the top of the Taptic Engine, make sure to move it over from your original part before you continue.
- Check out your new part next to the old one—make sure all bits and pieces are swapped over and peel off any sticky stuff before popping it in.
- Ready to put things back together? Just flip through these steps in reverse, and you’re golden.
- Old parts hanging around? Send them off to an R2 or e-Stewards recycler and keep things green.
- If your repair went sideways, try a little troubleshooting or swing by our Answers community for a hand. If you’re stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
