iPhone 14 Pro Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 37 Steps
Before you get started, let's make sure your battery is under 25%. It’s like giving your device a little breather before the teardown—safety first!
Time to swap out that tired battery in your iPhone 14 Pro! These batteries are designed to maintain about 80% of their original power for up to 500 charge cycles, which typically lasts around 18-24 months for most users. After that, you might notice your iPhone needing more frequent charges and performance slowing down—yep, your phone might feel a bit sluggish. This guide is based on the A2890 (international) model, but don’t worry if you’re working on a different iPhone 14 Pro model. There might be some small visual differences, but the steps will be nearly the same. Pro tip: Always discharge the battery below 25% before diving in to reduce fire risks in case of accidental damage during the repair. If your battery is swollen, be extra cautious. Also, note that on iOS 17.6 and earlier, your iPhone might give you a little ‘genuine battery’ warning post-repair, even if you’re using Apple parts. But as long as everything else works fine, feel free to ignore it. On iOS 18 and newer, you can calibrate your Apple battery with Repair Assistant. Don’t forget to grab some fresh adhesives to securely attach the battery and screen when you're done. If you want to keep that water resistance intact, how well you apply the screen adhesive will make all the difference. Just know, your device will lose its official IP rating after the fix.
Step 1
- First things first, let's give your iPhone a little nap. Power it off before we dive into the inner workings.
- Next up, grab your trusty pentalobe P2 screwdriver and remove those two 6.8 mm-long screws hanging out at the bottom edge of your device. They’re just waiting to be freed!
Step 2
Push the pick in too far and your device might not be too happy—let’s mark your pick and keep it out of trouble.
Want to get fancy? Mark the other corners with different measurements for maximum control.
Or just tape a coin 3 mm from the tip and boom, instant depth guard.
- Grab your trusty permanent marker and measure 3 mm from the tip of the opening pick. Give it a little mark—this will be your guide!
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any rogue glass bits that might fly around while you’re working.
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Slap some tape on that glass to keep the shards from turning your repair into a finger-poking adventure.
Stubborn screen refusing to budge? When you’re out of options, try supergluing the suction cup right to the screen—hey, desperate times call for creative fixes.
- Start by laying down some clear packing tape in overlapping strips over your iPhone's screen until it's fully covered. This will help protect the surface during the repair.
- If the suction cup refuses to cooperate, don’t stress. Just grab some sturdy tape, like duct tape, and fold it into a handle. Use it to lift the screen instead – easy fix!
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Step 4
Check out the next three steps to see the Anti-Clamp in action—a nifty little gadget that makes opening your device way less stressful. Not using the Anti-Clamp? Skip ahead three steps to find another way.
Want the full lowdown on the Anti-Clamp? We've got a guide for you.
If your iPhone feels like it's auditioning for an ice skating routine and the Anti-Clamp won't grip, just throw on some tape for extra traction.
- Give the blue handle a gentle tug back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide those arms over the edge of your iPhone, left or right—your choice!
- Set the suction cups close to the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front and one on the back, like a cozy little duo.
- Squeeze the cups together to create a snug fit and get that suction going!
Step 5
- Pull that blue handle forward to secure those arms in place.
- Give the handle a good clockwise spin, about 360 degrees, or until those suction cups start to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay nice and aligned. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit, realign, and tighten them back up.
Step 6
Turn no more than a quarter at a time, then take a breather for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do all the heavy lifting!
Curious about mastering the art of the hair dryer? Swing by our guide for all the hot tips.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough wiggle room, hit the area with a bit more heat and give the handle a quarter turn for extra oomph.
- Place your iPhone on something solid like a hardcover book so it can chill hands-free and lie flat—makes the next steps way easier.
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone until it feels a bit too toasty to touch.
- Give it a minute for the adhesive to loosen up and create a little gap.
- Slide an opening pick under the screen’s plastic bezel once the Anti-Clamp has made enough room to wiggle it in.
- Skip the next two steps.
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Step 7
Keep your hair dryer moving—don’t let it hang out in one spot too long!
If you're rocking a suction handle, get ready to follow the next two steps to help loosen that screen up!
- Give the bottom edge of your iPhone a warm hug with a hair dryer or heat gun for about 90 seconds, or until it feels just a tad too hot to handle. You've got this!
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Step 8
- Stick a suction handle near the bottom edge of the screen, but steer clear of the very edge of the glass to avoid any mishaps.
- Give the suction cup a steady, firm pull upward to gently create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slip an opening pick into the gap under the screen’s plastic bezel to start prying things open.
The adhesive keeping the screen in place is tough, so creating that first gap takes a bit of muscle. If it's being stubborn, try applying some extra heat and gently rocking the screen up and down. This will help loosen the adhesive enough to create a gap where you can slide in your tool. If you're still having trouble, don't worry – just reach out and schedule a repair for expert help!
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Step 9
- Grab your trusty hair dryer and give the right edge of your iPhone (you know, the side with the power button) a warm hug for about 90 seconds. Just make sure it’s toasty enough that it feels a bit too hot to handle!
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Step 10
Keep your pick gentle and don't go more than 3 mm deep—internal parts like to stay cozy where they are.
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPhone to start separating the adhesive.
- Keep sliding the pick up along the right edge until you hit the top right corner.
- Leave the pick snugly in the top right corner before moving on.
Step 11
- Grab that hair dryer and give the top edge of your iPhone a little warm-up love for about 90 seconds or until it feels just a tad too hot to touch. You're doing great!
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Step 12
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—or the top sensors might end up with a surprise they didn’t ask for.
- Glide your opening pick around the top right corner of your iPhone to break up that stubborn adhesive.
- Let the pick chill in the top left corner while you get ready for the next move.
Step 13
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the left edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until the screen feels just a little too hot to touch. That's your signal that you're good to go!
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Step 14
Heads up! There are some fragile cables running along the left edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick there to keep those little guys safe and sound.
Step 15
The cables along the left edge are super delicate and can easily get hurt when using a pick. So, let’s switch things up and follow this alternative method to safely tackle the left adhesive.
Gently twist it like you're opening a jar of pickles, no need to rush!
If the sticky stuff is putting up a fight, just give that left edge a little heat to make things easier.
- Place a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of your iPhone.
- Twist both picks gently at the same time until the left edge pops open.
Step 16
If you're short on props to lean your screen against, just grab that trusty suction handle of yours – it’s got your back!
- Gently lift the suction handle off the screen.
- Turn your iPhone so the right edge faces you. It's like giving it a little spin!
- Now, open up your iPhone like it's a book—swing the screen up from the right side.
- Prop the screen against something sturdy to keep it in place while you work your magic on the phone.
- When it's time to put everything back together, lay the screen carefully in position, making sure the clips along the top edge line up. Gently press the top edge in, and once it's in place, snap the rest of the screen down. If it doesn't click easily, check the clips around the perimeter to make sure they're in good shape and not bent.
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Step 17
Keep a close eye on every single screw during this repair, making sure each one goes back exactly where it came from—your iPhone will thank you for the careful reassembly!
- Grab your Y000 screwdriver and unscrew the eight little guys keeping the battery connector cover in place. Each one has a job to do, so let’s set them aside somewhere safe.
- Quick tip: Before you close things up, turn your iPhone on and run through the basics to make sure everything’s working. When you’re done, power it off completely before getting back to work.
- You’ll find five screws at 1.3 mm in length.
- Two more screws measure up at 1.6 mm.
- And don’t forget the solo 1.9 mm screw hanging out on its own.
Step 18
- Grab the connector cover using tweezers and slide it down gently to free up those flex cables.
- Take off the connector cover.
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Step 19
Be careful not to mess up the black silicone seal around this and other board connections. It’s like a mini superhero for your device, helping keep out water and dust. Treat it right, and your tech will thank you later!
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointed end to gently lift the battery cable out of its socket. It should pop right up!
- Once it's free, carefully bend the connector slightly away from the logic board. This will keep it from accidentally touching the socket and powering up the phone while you’re working your magic.
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Step 20
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pry the first display cable connector straight up from its socket to disconnect it.
- When reconnecting press-fit connectors like this one, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle—if it’s off-center, those pins might bend and cause permanent damage.
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Step 21
- Grab the pointy end of your trusty spudger and gently pop the second display cable connector straight up out of its socket. Easy does it!
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Step 22
- Start by gently removing the screen. Take your time, no rush here.
- Once you've cleaned the necessary areas with some isopropyl alcohol (>90%), add fresh adhesive where needed to keep everything snug and secure.
- If you're planning to swap out the screen adhesives during reassembly, pause right here and take a breather. This is the perfect time to do it.
Step 23
- Grab your trusty Phillips #000 driver and carefully unscrew the four tiny 1.5 mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place.
Step 24
- Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the loudspeaker from the bottom-right corner of your phone. It’s like opening a stubborn jar lid—just give it a little wiggle and lift!
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Step 25
- Grab the loudspeaker gently with a pair of tweezers.
- Angle the loudspeaker just right to peel it away from the sticky strip connected to the Taptic Engine.
- Lift out the loudspeaker carefully.
- When putting the loudspeaker back in, slide it battery-side first into its spot to line up perfectly with the adhesive strip.
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Step 26
- Grab your spudger and carefully pry the Taptic Engine connector straight up from its socket. Just a little lift, and you’re good to go!
Tools Used
Step 27
Standoff screws love their own special driver or driver bit, but if you’re improvising, a small flathead screwdriver can get the job done. Just go slow and steady—no one likes a scratched-up motherboard.
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the two screws holding down the Taptic Engine.
- Next up, use a standoff screwdriver to unscrew the 2.9 mm-long standoff screw that’s keeping the Taptic Engine in place.
- Remove one 1.8 mm-long screw.
- Remove one 2.1 mm-long screw.
Step 28
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers or your fingers and gently lift out the Taptic Engine. You've got this!
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Step 29
If your replacement part didn’t come with the plastic strip on top of the Taptic Engine, no worries! Just pop it off your old part and slide it onto the new one to keep everything working smoothly.
- With a gentle touch, either use your fingers or grab a pair of tweezers to carefully lift off the adhesive strip from the Taptic Engine. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
The battery is held in place by three stretch-release adhesive strips—two along the bottom edge and one at the top.
Next up, you'll gently pull each tab to stretch the adhesive beneath the battery. These command-strip style adhesives lose their grip when stretched, making battery removal a breeze.
If a strip snaps, no worries! They don't always behave perfectly. Keep going for some handy tips on dealing with broken strips.
- Each adhesive strip sports a black pull-tab at its end, gently stuck to the battery’s edge, ready for you to grab and pull.
Step 31
Heads up: Be gentle with that battery! Avoid poking it with sharp tools, as a puncture could lead to a messy leak or even a fire. Let's keep things safe and sound!
- Grab some blunt-nosed tweezers and gently peel down the two battery adhesive pull-tabs along the bottom edge of the battery. Take it slow and steady!
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Step 32
If any adhesive strips decide to play hide and seek under the battery and can’t be found, just remove the other strips and keep moving forward as described below.
- Grab the first pull-tab using your fingers or wrap it around a spudger, then gently pull it away from the battery, aiming toward the bottom of the iPhone.
- If the adhesive strip snaps, try to fish it out with your fingers or some blunt tweezers, then keep pulling—just don’t pry under the battery.
- Pull firmly enough to keep the strip taut, but don’t force it. Give it time to stretch and peel away smoothly.
- Avoid pressing down on the battery. Hold the iPhone steady by its sides while you work.
- Keep the strip flat and wrinkle-free. Pull evenly along the whole strip instead of focusing on the middle or one edge.
- Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn’t catch on the battery’s edge.
Step 33
If the adhesive decides to take a vacation underneath the battery and can't be fished out, just keep on trucking to the next step!
- Grab that second pull-tab with your fingers or the middle of a spudger and gently pull it away from the battery, heading towards the bottom of your iPhone.
- If the adhesive strip decides to break off and play hide and seek, use your fingers or some blunt tweezers to fish it out and keep on pulling—but remember, no prying under the battery!
- Stick to the same game plan as before: avoid pressing down on the battery, keep that strip nice and flat, and pull at a low angle for the best results!
Step 34
- Grab a pair of those handy blunt-nosed tweezers and an opening pick. Now, let's get to work peeling up that stubborn battery adhesive pull-tab from the top edge of the battery. You've got this!
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Step 35
Watch out not to send the iPhone battery flying when the last adhesive strip gives way.
- Follow the same steps as before, and gently pull the top adhesive tab to lift it off. Be careful not to let it catch on anything!
- If all the adhesive strips came off without a hitch, you're good to go—skip ahead to the next step.
- If some adhesive is still hanging on, no worries—just move on to the next step to tackle it.
Step 36
Take it easy when prying the battery out! If it's being stubborn, just add a few more drops of alcohol to loosen things up. Whatever you do, don't go poking or crushing the battery with your tool – that’s a no-go!
- Having a tough time with that stubborn battery? Try applying a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol along the edge of the battery where the broken adhesive strips are hanging out.
- Let the alcohol work its magic for about a minute – it'll help loosen up the adhesive so you can get that battery out without too much hassle.
- Now, grab an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger and gently lift the battery away. Be kind, but firm, and it should come free!
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Step 37
Putting a squished or busted battery back in is asking for trouble—let's keep it safe and skip the risky business.
- If you can, power up your device and give your repair a quick test run before sealing it all up with new adhesive. It's worth a shot!
- To put everything back together, just retrace your steps and follow the instructions in reverse order. Remember to add new adhesive where needed after giving the surfaces a good clean with some isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
- Once your repair is done, depending on the part you replaced, you might have the chance to calibrate it using Apple's Repair Assistant, available from iOS 18 onwards. Just update your device, head to Settings→General→About→Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the friendly on-screen prompts.
- For peak performance, don't forget to calibrate your brand-new battery after finishing up this guide.
- Got e-waste? Make sure to take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to give it a proper send-off.
- If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t fret! Check out some basic troubleshooting tips, or feel free to reach out to our Answers community for a helping hand.
