iPhone 14 Plus Loudspeaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 31 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to let your battery drain below 25% before you dive into disassembling your device. Safety first, and you'll be all set for a smooth repair adventure!
Ready to swap out the loudspeaker in your iPhone 14 Plus? We’ve got you covered. This guide is based on the A2886 (international) model, so if you're working on a different variant, expect a few small differences in how things look, but the steps should be the same. Before you dive in, make sure to drain your battery to under 25%—it’s a smart safety move in case the battery gets damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, handle it with extra care. When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget that you’ll need some fresh adhesive to secure the rear glass. Your iPhone will work just fine after the repair, but keep in mind that it might lose its IP rating (water and dust resistance). If anything feels too tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Make sure to power off your iPhone before you start taking it apart.
- Next, pop out the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
Step 2
Be careful not to shove that opening pick too deep—it could harm your device! Mark it to keep things safe and sound.
Feel free to give the other corners of the pick some unique measurements too. Variety is the spice of life!
Another fun trick? Tape a coin about 3 mm from the tip of your pick for added precision.
- Grab your opening pick and measure about 3 mm from the tip. Then, use a permanent marker to make a little mark. It's a small step, but it’ll make all the difference when you're lining things up later!
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any sneaky shards that might fly loose during the repair.
Got a cracked rear glass on your iPhone? No worries! Just grab some tape and cover that glass to keep things from getting worse and to stay safe while you work your magic.
If you find yourself in a real pickle, you can give a little superglue love to the suction cup and stick it to the rear glass.
- Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the back glass of the iPhone until it's completely covered. You're basically creating a protective layer—think of it as a cozy blanket for your device!
- If the suction cup isn't sticking as you hoped in the next steps, don't sweat it! Just take a sturdy piece of tape (like duct tape) and fold it into a handy little handle to lift that rear glass instead. You're on the right track!
Tools Used
Step 4
Don't keep your hair dryer in one spot for too long. Give it a little space to breathe, and it'll keep working its magic!
- Grab a hair dryer or a heat gun and give the bottom edge of your iPhone a warm hug for about 90 seconds, or until the rear glass is feeling a bit too hot to handle.
Tools Used
Step 5
The adhesive keeping the rear glass snugly in place is super strong, so getting that first gap is going to require some muscle. If you’re struggling to create a little opening, try heating it up a bit more and gently wiggling the rear glass up and down to loosen that adhesive. Soon enough, you’ll have just the right amount of space to slide in your trusty opening pick.
- Place a suction handle carefully on the bottom edge of the rear glass, just make sure to stay clear of the very edge.
- Gently pull up on the suction cup with steady, even pressure. You want to create just a small gap between the rear glass and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap you've created.
Tools Used
Step 6
- Grab your trusty hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPhone a little love for about 90 seconds, or until the rear glass feels just a bit too hot to touch. You'll know you've heated it just right when it starts getting that warm-but-not-burn-your-fingers feel.
Tools Used
Step 7
Keep your pick’s adventure to a max depth of 3 mm — we’re aiming to fix, not poke around where the sun doesn’t shine inside your device!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, cutting through the sticky adhesive that’s keeping that rear glass snugly in place.
Step 8
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the right edge of your iPhone (the side with the power button) for about 90 seconds, or until the back glass feels just a bit too hot to hold comfortably.
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Step 9
Careful! There's a fragile cable running along the right edge of your iPhone. Keep your pick clear of this spot to avoid any accidental damage to the cable.
Step 10
Keep your pick insertion under 3 mm to avoid messing with the charging coil cable.
- Pop your pick gently into the bottom edge of the iPhone, then slide it up the right side to keep working through the adhesive. Stay steady and keep that separation going!
Step 11
- Grab a hair dryer and warm up the top edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until the back glass feels just a bit too hot to handle. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 12
- Carefully slide your pick under the top right corner of the phone, then glide it around that edge and halfway along the top side.
Step 13
Hold on a sec! Don't go trying to completely detach that rear glass just yet; there's a delicate ribbon cable tethering it to the iPhone's logic board. Let's keep it intact!
And remember, when you're using that pick, keep it to a maximum of 3 mm deep. We wouldn’t want to accidentally poke around and mess up the camera array, right?
- Slide your pick under the top-left corner of the phone. Glide it around the corner and move it halfway along the top edge. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 14
Be gentle with that short charging coil flex cable—it's a bit delicate, so handle with care!
- First things first, let's get that suction handle off the rear glass. You're going to want to set it aside for now.
- Now, gently open your iPhone by swinging the rear glass up from the left side, just like flipping the cover of a book. Easy peasy!
- Propping up the rear glass is a smart move! Lean it against something sturdy while you work on your phone.
- When it's time to put everything back together, place the rear glass in its rightful spot, align those clips at the top edge, and carefully press it down until it clicks into place. If it’s being stubborn and doesn't snap in easily, take a quick peek at those clips to make sure they’re not bent.
- And hey, if you don't have anything handy to prop the rear glass against, your trusty suction handle can step in and save the day!
Tools Used
Step 15
As you dive into this repair adventure, make sure to keep an eye on each screw and return it to its original spot when you're done. This little trick will help keep your iPhone safe and sound!
- Grab your trusty Y000 screwdriver and take out those two 1.3mm screws holding down the battery connector cover. Easy peasy!
- Before you put everything back together, it's a good idea to power on your iPhone and double-check that all functions are working. Just make sure to shut it off completely before diving back into the repair.
Step 16
- Grab that battery connector cover with your trusty tweezers and give it a gentle upward slide (aiming towards the A15 print) to release the top hook.
- Now, go ahead and remove the battery connector cover.
Tools Used
Step 17
Be gentle with the black silicone seal around this and other connections on the board. It's there to keep dust and water out, so treat it with care to keep things safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointed tip to gently pop the battery cable out of its socket. Just pry it straight up, and it should come off without a hitch!
- Now, give that connector a little nudge away from the logic board. This will help keep it from accidentally making contact with the socket and powering up your phone while you're in the zone with your repair.
Tools Used
Step 18
- Grab your trusty Y000 screwdriver and use it to take out the tiny 1.0mm screw that’s holding the charging coil connector cover in place. Nice and easy – you're almost there!
Step 19
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the charging coil connector cover. It’s a simple move, but you’ll feel like a pro doing it!
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently pry the charging coil cable connector straight up from its socket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 21
- Take off the rear glass assembly carefully.
- Clean the areas with isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher), then add fresh adhesive where needed.
- When putting it back together, stop here if you want to swap out the rear glass adhesive for a fresh stick.
Step 22
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.
- Unscrew the two 1.7 mm-long screws with care.
- Now, take out the 1.4 mm-long screw; it's a small one, but it's important!
- Lastly, remove the 1.8 mm-long screw, and you're good to go!
Step 23
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the Taptic Engine connector bracket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 24
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently nudge the Taptic Engine connector, lifting it straight up from its cozy socket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 25
When it comes to tackling those standoff screws, the best tool for the job is a dedicated standoff driver or driver bit. But if you're in a bit of a bind, a small flathead screwdriver can save the day—just be super careful not to let it slip and accidentally damage any nearby components. You've got this!
- Grab your standoff driver and carefully remove that 3.1mm-long standoff screw. It’ll be easy—just a quick twist and you’re good to go!
Step 26
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers or just your fingers and gently lift out the Taptic Engine. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 27
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently pop out the two screws holding that metal bracket in place.
- One teeny 1.4 mm screw to remove.
- One slightly longer 1.5 mm screw hanging out there.
Step 28
At the bottom of the metal bracket, you’ll find a few clips holding it snugly to the frame.
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift the metal bracket straight up to pop its clips free from the frame.
- Take the metal bracket out and set it aside.
- When putting it back together, line up the bracket just right and press those metal clips back into their slots in the frame.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Let's kick things off by unscrewing the five screws holding that loudspeaker in place. You've got this!
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's tackle those three tiny screws that are 1.5 mm long. Easy peasy!
- Now, it's time to remove the 1.9 mm long screw with your Phillips screwdriver. Keep it up!
- Finally, take that Y000 screwdriver and gently remove the 1.2 mm long screw. Almost there!
Step 30
- Grab the spudger and gently use its pointed end to nudge the grounding cable, which is chilling in the middle of the loudspeaker, to the side.
Tools Used
Step 31
- Before you install the new part, give it a quick side-by-side comparison with the original. You might need to move over any remaining bits or peel off some adhesive backing first.
- Now, just retrace your steps from earlier, but in reverse, and you’ll have your device back in one piece.
- Got some e-waste on your hands? Don’t toss it—take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and do the right thing.
- Something didn’t go quite as planned? No worries—try a bit of basic troubleshooting, or feel free to schedule a repair if you need a hand.
