iPhone SE 2022 Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 41 Steps
Quick tip: Make sure your battery is under 25% before you dive in—your fingers will thank you!
Get ready to tackle the battery replacement in your iPhone SE 2022! This guide is tailored for the A2783 (international) model. If you’ve got a swollen battery, please take extra precautions—safety first! Make sure to drain your battery to below 25% before diving in; this way, you’ll lower the risk of any fiery mishaps during your repair adventure. Just a heads up: we’ll be fully detaching the display assembly to keep those delicate display cables safe from harm. However, if you're feeling confident and want to skip that step, go for it! Plus, while you could remove the adhesive strips as soon as you pop open the phone, we suggest taking out the Taptic Engine first. It’ll help prevent any accidental breakage of the lower adhesive strips—trust us, it’s a smart move! Remember, if you skip replacing adhesive seals when putting everything back together, your device will still work but might lose a bit of its water resistance charm. Don’t forget, you’ll need some replacement adhesive to keep those components cozy when reassembling. If you hit any snags along the way, feel free to schedule a repair!
Step 1
- First things first: power off your phone before diving into the disassembly. Safety first, right?
- Now, grab your tool and carefully remove the two 3.4mm P2 pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of your iPhone. Easy peasy!
Step 2
If you push your opening pick in too deep, it might hurt your device—so mark your pick to keep things safe.
Feel free to mark the other edges of the pick with different measurements for extra precision.
Or, tape a coin onto the pick about 3 mm from the tip as a handy depth guide.
- Grab your trusty permanent marker and measure out 3 mm from the tip. Make a little mark on that opening pick like a true DIY pro!
Step 3
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any sneaky glass shards that might pop out during the repair.
If your iPhone screen is cracked, keep the mess contained and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the broken glass before you start.
If the suction cup just won’t stick, a little superglue can help it grab hold for you.
- Cover the iPhone's screen with strips of clear packing tape, layering them so the entire front is fully wrapped.
- If the suction cup won’t stick in the upcoming steps, no worries! Just fold a sturdy tape (like duct tape) into a little handle and use that to gently lift the screen instead.
Step 4
Next up, we're introducing the Anti-Clamp – a nifty little tool we created to make the opening process a breeze. If you don't have the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for an alternative method.
For a full rundown on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPhone's surface is a bit too smooth for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a bit of tape can do the trick to give it some extra traction.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide the arms onto either the left or right side of your iPhone.
- Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of your iPhone, just above the home button—one cup on the front, the other on the back.
- Press the cups together to create a good seal and suction on the area.
Step 5
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place.
- Spin the handle clockwise for a full circle (360 degrees) or until you see the cups start to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—make sure they're lined up with each other. If they wander off, just loosen them a bit and get those arms back in sync.
Step 6
Turn no more than a quarter turn at a time, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do the heavy lifting!
Feeling a bit extra? You can try using a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but keep in mind that too much heat can be a bummer for your display and internal battery, so take it easy and proceed with caution.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t quite doing its job, don’t be shy! Apply some more heat to the spot and give that handle a little quarter turn for a better gap.
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it carefully between the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
- Gently fold the iOpener so it rests on the iPhone’s bottom edge.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up, creating a nice little gap for you to work with.
- Now, carefully slip an opening pick underneath the plastic bezel of the screen (avoid the screen itself!).
- Feel free to skip the next two steps.
Step 7
If you're using a suction handle, let's get that rear glass ready to pop! Follow the next two steps to loosen it up.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can also do the trick, but keep an eye on the heat—too much can be a bummer for the display and internal battery!
- Grab your trusty iOpener and place it on the screen for a solid two minutes to gently warm up and soften that stubborn adhesive beneath.
Tools Used
Step 8
If you're finding it tricky to create a gap, try warming up the bottom half of the screen a bit more to loosen that adhesive. Just remember to follow the iOpener instructions carefully so you don't overdo the heat!
- Attach a suction handle to the bottom part of the front panel, aiming to get it as close to the home button as you can.
- Gently pull up on the front panel with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the panel and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap just under the screen's plastic bezel to start prying it open.
Tools Used
Step 9
- Gently slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to carefully cut through the front panel adhesive.
- Pop in a second opening pick along the bottom edge of your phone to keep things moving.
- Now, slide the opening pick over to the bottom left corner to slice through the remaining adhesive.
- Keep those opening picks in place so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.
Step 10
Avoid trying to pry the top edge of the display off the rear case. It's secured with plastic clips that could snap if you're not careful.
If the adhesive starts playing hard to get, it probably cooled off. Give your iOpener a two to three minute warm-up session to bring the heat back.
- Gently slide the bottom left opening pick up along the left side of your phone to carefully cut through the adhesive.
- Pause when you reach the top left corner of the display.
Tools Used
Step 11
Keep your pick's dive shallow—no more than 3 mm—to keep those sneaky internal parts safe and sound.
- Gently slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone, cutting through that adhesive like a pro.
- Pause just shy of the top right corner of the display. You're almost there!
Step 12
Keep the display angle under 15º—lifting it too high can turn those ribbon cables into spaghetti.
- Take out those opening picks like a pro.
- Lift the bottom edge of the display by gently pulling up on the suction handle—think of it as giving your device a little stretch.
- Remove the suction handle and get ready for the next move.
Tools Used
Step 13
- Slip an opening pick under the top left corner of the display to get started.
- Work the opening pick around that corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice through the remaining adhesive.
Step 14
- Gently slide the display assembly down toward the charging port—it’s like giving your phone a little nudge—so those sneaky clips let go of the rear case.
Step 15
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking the display away from the phone assembly just yet. There are some delicate ribbon cables still hanging on to the logic board, and we wouldn't want to hurt their feelings.
- Start by gently lifting the display from the left side—just like opening a book's cover. Simple as that!
- Once it's open, lean the display against something to keep it standing while you work. No need for juggling!
Step 16
- Unscrew the four Phillips screws holding down the lower display cable bracket. Easy does it!
- Pay attention to each screw’s home—mixing them up can spell trouble for your device. Keep them organized for a drama-free reassembly.
- Two screws are 1.2 mm long.
- Two screws are 2.8 mm long.
Step 17
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off that lower display cable bracket. Take it slow and steady—you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 18
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket to disconnect it.
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Step 19
The display and digitizer cables are like best buddies, hanging out on top of each other. To keep their friendship intact and avoid any cable drama, make sure to unplug the upper cable first. And remember, no simultaneous disconnections—let's keep it smooth and easy!
- Grab a spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift the bottom two display cables out of their sockets. Just wiggle it under the connectors and pry them straight up—no force needed!
- When you're putting those connectors back in place, take it easy. Start by pressing down on one side until it clicks. Then move to the other side, but don't press in the middle. If it’s even a tiny bit off, it could bend and cause permanent damage. Take your time—patience is key here!
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three screws that are holding the front sensor assembly bracket in place. They’re just 1.2 mm long, so it’ll be a quick job!
Step 21
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift off the front sensor assembly bracket with care.
Tools Used
Step 22
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pop the front sensor assembly connector straight up out of its socket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Carefully detach the display assembly. Give it a little wiggle and make sure everything is loose before lifting it off. Take your time, no rush here!
Step 24
- Let's get those screws out and free the Lighting connector bracket! You'll need to remove three screws:
- One tiny 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw, because even the smallest parts matter!
- One 2.7 mm-long Phillips screw, to keep things interesting.
- And one more 2.9 mm-long Phillips screw, just for good measure.
Step 25
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift out the Lightning connector bracket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 26
This part of the flex cable is gently stuck to the speaker. If you're finding it tough to separate the two, try applying a bit of heat with an iOpener or a hair dryer. This will loosen up the adhesive, making it way easier to separate the cable without causing any damage.
- Gently wiggle an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker. Take your time and be careful—this step is key to getting everything sorted out!
Tools Used
Step 27
The connector's socket likes to hang out loosely between the speaker and the Taptic Engine, making unplugging its cable a bit of a tricky dance. To make things smoother, grab an opening pick to gently hold the socket down while you disconnect the cable. Easy does it!
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently lift the Wi-Fi diversity antenna connector straight up from its socket—think of it like a little antenna dance move.
- Plugging this cable back in can be a bit fussy. Make it easier by holding the flex cable with tweezers so the connector lines up perfectly. Then, press down gently with the flat side of your spudger until you hear a satisfying click.
Step 28
- Grab your spudger and use the pointed end to carefully lift the Wi-Fi diversity antenna off the logic board. Just pry it up gently from its socket, and it should come right off. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift out the Wi-Fi diversity antenna. Nice and easy!
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Step 30
If you're in a jam, a small flathead screwdriver can do the trick—just be extra careful to keep it steady and avoid scratching anything nearby.
For those tricky standoff screws, a standoff screwdriver or bit is your best buddy for removal!
- First, let’s get those two screws off that are holding the Taptic Engine in place.
- One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
- One 2.1 mm standoff screw
Step 31
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift off the grounding bracket from the left side of the Taptic Engine. Easy does it!
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Step 32
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the antenna cable socket upward, pulling it away from the Taptic Engine connector underneath. You've got this!
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Step 33
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointy end to gently pop the Taptic Engine connector up and out of its socket. Keep it steady, you're doing great!
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Step 35
- The iPhone's battery is held in place with four strips of stretch-release adhesive—two at the top and two at the bottom. Nice and secure, but we’ve got this!
- Each adhesive strip has a black pull-tab at the end, which is gently attached to the front surface of the battery, or sometimes just to its short edge. Easy to spot, and easy to pull!
Step 36
Be extra careful not to poke or bend the battery with your tools—damaging it could cause leaks or even a fire hazard. If you can, try using your fingernails or some blunt tweezers first. Save the sharp tweezers for when you really need to pry off that sticky adhesive!
- Gently lift the first battery adhesive tab starting at the bottom right corner of the battery.
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Step 37
If any of those pesky adhesive strips decide to play hide and seek under the battery and you can't fish them out, don't sweat it! Just go ahead and remove the remaining strips, then follow the steps below like a pro.
- Grab the first pull tab with your fingers or blunt tweezers and gently pull it away from the battery, aiming toward the bottom of the iPhone.
- If the adhesive strip snaps, try to catch it with your fingers or tweezers and keep pulling—just don’t pry underneath the battery.
- Pull firmly enough to keep the strip taut, but don’t rush it. Give the adhesive time to stretch and let go slowly.
- Avoid pressing down on the battery. Hold the iPhone securely by its sides for the best grip.
- Keep the strip flat and smooth. Try to pull evenly along the whole strip instead of yanking mostly from the middle or one side.
- Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn’t catch on the battery’s edge.
- To prevent tearing, alternate between pulling and gently winding the strip around your tweezers. Repeat this process patiently until the strip comes free.
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Step 38
If the adhesive decides to take a break underneath the battery and you can't get it back, just keep going with the next step!
- Grab those three pull-tabs with your fingers or a pair of blunt-nosed tweezers and gently tug them away from the battery, heading toward the bottom of the iPhone.
- If one of the strips breaks off, no worries! Try to grab it with your fingers or tweezers and keep pulling—just avoid prying under the battery.
- Repeat the same game plan from the last strip: keep it flat and wrinkle-free, and pull at a low angle. No need to press down on the battery.
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Step 39
Hey there, take it easy when you're removing that battery! Forcing it out isn't the way to go. If it's being stubborn, just a few more drops of alcohol can help loosen that adhesive. And remember, no poking or prodding the battery with your pry tool—let's keep it safe and sound!
- If any adhesive strips snapped and the battery is still clinging to the rear case, drip a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) under the battery near where it’s stuck.
- Give it about a minute to let the alcohol do its magic and loosen the glue.
- Then, carefully slide an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger under the battery to gently pry it up.
Tools Used
Step 40
- If you don't have any high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol handy, no worries! Just whip up an iOpener and let it cozy up to the rear glass for at least three minutes to help loosen that pesky stretch-release adhesive hiding under the battery.
- Next, grab a plastic card and gently slide it underneath the bottom edge of the battery.
- Now, slide that card along the edge of the battery to gently separate it from the rear case and slice through the adhesive.
- Finally, use your trusty plastic card to carefully pry up the battery. You're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Before sealing everything back up with new adhesive, if you can, power on your device and make sure the repair worked.
- Check your replacement part against the original—sometimes you’ll need to swap over leftover components or peel off adhesive covers before putting it in.
- Put your device back together by following the steps in reverse. Don’t forget to clean surfaces with isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and apply fresh adhesive where needed.
- Once you’re done, it’s a good idea to calibrate your new battery to keep things running smoothly.
- Recycle any electronic waste responsibly by taking it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- If things didn’t go perfectly, try some basic troubleshooting or, if it’s feeling tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
