Microsoft Surface Dial Teardown
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 10 Steps
Earlier this week, we took a deep dive into Microsoft’s latest Surface device, the Studio. Now, responding to some curiosity on our YouTube channel, we’re taking a closer look at its sidekick – the Surface Dial. Get ready for a few playful ‘turn it up to 11’ references as we explore this fun accessory. Stay tuned for more device breakdowns and don’t forget to follow us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter for the latest updates!
Step 1
– Some cool features of the Surface Dial:
– Bluetooth 4.0 LE – Yup, it’s wireless and ready to go.
– Works with Surface Studio, Surface Pro 4, Surface Book, and any PC with the Windows 10 Anniversary Update – so you’re all set if you’re up-to-date!
– Runs on two AAA batteries – easy to swap out when they’re running low.
– Two input methods: spinny and clicky – take your pick! Spin for smooth control, or click for that satisfying feedback.
– Sticky rubber foot – this little guy helps the Dial stay in place, even on your Surface Studio glass.
Step 2
– The rubber foot isn’t held on by visible fasteners. In fact, it’s held in place by some sneaky magnets, making it easy to pop off and back on without any glue, tools, or those annoying plastic clips. Cool, right?
– Inside, you’ll find the two AAA batteries powering the puck. The included Duracells aren’t rechargeable, but when it’s time to replace them, feel free to swap them out with your own rechargeable batteries.
– A sync button is the only other feature you’ll find in the Dial’s entryway.
– Microsoft decided to hide the Dial’s model number, 1756, behind the batteries—so you’ll need to remove them to find it.
Step 3
– The Dial’s built tough, which is awesome (especially if it takes a dive off your Surface). But that solid build does make it a bit tricky to get inside…
– A bit of persistent prying led to some noticeable snapping sounds—let’s just say, the midframe wasn’t exactly eager to come out.
– Once we got the midframe/battery holder compartment off, we were treated to a look at a cool bearing and some silicon inside!
– Next up, we get to remove this (probably Bluetooth) antenna from the battery compartment.
– And don’t forget the four magnets neatly placed around the battery frame. Not only do they keep that magnetic cover in place, but they also give the Dial some extra grip on the Studio’s screen to fight off any unwanted sliding.
Step 4
– The dial’s smooth spinning action is not just fun, it’s super helpful for both taking things apart and for everyday use.
– The single access hole leaves plenty of room for those small chips, and the slick bearing makes it a breeze to reach every T6 screw holding the body in place behind the silver cover.
Step 5
Unless Microsoft decides to share some secret tricks, your best bet for opening up your Dial is to carefully drill through the plug and reach the three screws using the turntable approach shown above. Take it slow and steady—no magic required, just a bit of patience and the right tools.
– After our less-than-perfect start with the device, we spot a little hole under the battery compartment. Could this be the secret entrance we’ve been looking for?
– We carefully peel off a sticker and…
– It turns out the access hole that should line up with the three screws securing the Dial in its shell is completely blocked!
Step 6
– Alright, back to our teardown rhythm: thanks to our trusty spin-and-unscrew method, we can now pull apart the internals from the outer shell without breaking a sweat.
– With the guts now free, it’s clear that the screws don’t actually pass through the bearing— they simply circle around it, gripping it by the edges.
Step 7
– To dive any deeper, we’ll need to split the bearing. Heads up: it’s a bit greasy, and there’s a plastic cage keeping all the ball bearings in check—clearly engineered for that smooth, slightly resistant premium feel.
– Once the midframe is out of the way, you’ll spot two springy posts across from the switch. These little springs keep the pressure balanced, so every press feels just right—no matter where you hit it.
– Next, we’ll scoop out a pancake vibration motor. That’s the piece behind the buzzing feedback you feel when you spin or click the Dial.
– The spot on the midframe that holds the vibration motor is rocking a rubber O-ring, most likely to keep those good vibrations under control.
Step 8
– Now, let’s dive into the heart of the action: the components that make the Surface Dial tick. We’ve got the clicky and the spinny functions on our hands.
– The microswitch here is responsible for that satisfying click you feel when using the Dial. Simple, yet essential.
– As for the spinny action, you’ll notice it looks a lot like the optical sensor in a Nest—basically, an optical mouse pointed at the inside of the metal casing. It’s a nifty little trick that works like a charm.
– But here’s a neat twist: unlike the Nest, we’ve got a lightguide that directs the light to and from the optical sensor at a sharp 90-degree angle. This clever design keeps the sensor off its own board, neatly avoiding a parallel mount to the casing.
Step 9
– Here it is, right in front of you: these chips. Now let’s get to work.
– The Nordic Semiconductor nRF52832 Bluetooth Low Energy SoC – it’s the little brain that makes your device talk wirelessly.
– The Texas Instruments DRV2604L Haptic Driver – this is what makes your device buzz, hum, or shake, giving you those sweet vibrations when you need ’em.
– The Optical Sensor – it’s the eye of the device, making sure everything stays in focus and in line.
– DC-DC Converter – it’s like a magic trick, changing the power flow to keep everything running smoothly.
Step 10
– This dial has us going in circles—literally! But don’t worry, we’ve got the rundown on all the circular parts and pieces that make this thing tick. Let’s get it all lined up and spinning smoothly!