iPhone 12 mini Taptic Engine Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 30 Steps
The Taptic Engine is what gives your iPhone that satisfying buzz and haptic magic. This guide walks you through how to yank out and swap the Taptic Engine in your iPhone 12 mini. Keep some fresh adhesive handy for putting everything back together when you're done.
Step 1
Heads up: Make sure your iPhone battery is below 25% before you start. If a fully charged lithium-ion battery gets punctured, things can get fiery—literally!
- Shut down your iPhone before you start taking it apart—let’s keep things chill.
- Use a pentalobe screwdriver to take out the two 6.7 mm screws from the bottom edge. These are the gatekeepers to your phone’s insides!
Step 2
If you push your pick in too deep, you might accidentally damage your device. To avoid that, make sure to mark your pick before inserting it.
Feel free to mark the other corners of the pick too, using different measurements, just to be extra safe.
Alternatively, you can tape a coin about 3mm from the tip of the pick to help guide your hand.
- Mark the opening pick 3 mm from the tip using a permanent marker—precision is key, and you got this!
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any rogue glass that might decide to fly off during the repair.
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Keep those sharp shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start working.
If the suction cup just won’t stick, a little superglue can help it grip the screen better.
- Start by layering some clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the entire face is nicely covered. It's like giving your phone a protective blanket!
- If the suction cup isn't playing nice in the next steps, just grab a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape works wonders) and fold it into a handle. You can lift the screen with that instead—easy peasy!
Step 4
Let's take a look at the next three steps if you're using the Anti-Clamp—a handy tool that makes getting your device open a breeze. If you're not rolling with the Anti-Clamp, just hop ahead three steps for a different approach.
Need extra help with the Anti-Clamp? Check out the full guide for all the details.
If your iPhone feels more like a greased watermelon and just won’t grip, toss some tape on the surface to give the Anti-Clamp a better hold.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms. Nice and easy!
- Gently slide the arms onto either the left or right edge of your iPhone. Get it snug but not too tight!
- Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back. Make sure they're lined up just right.
- Press the cups together to create a solid suction. Hold it for a moment to make sure it sticks—you're almost there!
Step 5
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
- Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you notice the suction cups starting to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen the cups a bit and realign the arms.
Step 6
Be sure to tuck that opening pick just right between the plastic bezel and the frame; we want to keep your screen safe and sound!
Take it easy and don't twist more than a quarter turn at a time. Give it a minute to chill between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting for you.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough, just heat it a bit more and give the handle a smooth quarter turn. Easy peasy!
- Set your iPhone on a solid surface like a hardcover book so it can relax hands-free, lying flat like a sunbather. This way, you’ll have an easier time tackling the next steps.
- Grab your trusty hair dryer and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone. It should feel just a smidge too hot to touch—perfect for loosening things up!
- Take a breather for about a minute to let that adhesive chill out and create a little opening gap for you.
- When the Anti-Clamp gives you enough space, slide an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel like a pro.
- Feel free to skip the next three steps.
Tools Used
Step 7
Keep that hair dryer moving, folks! Don’t let it hang out in one spot for too long.
Cracking open your iPhone’s display will break those waterproof vibes. If you want to keep it splash-proof, have new seals on hand. Otherwise, just steer clear of water after putting it back together.
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone gets that sticky adhesive nice and soft, so the screen comes off with way less drama.
If the screen’s putting up a fight, odds are the adhesive cooled off and got stubborn. Hit it with a little more heat and it’ll loosen right up.
- Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it feels just a tad too hot to touch. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 8
- Rock that single suction handle by sticking it right on the bottom edge of your phone—get it as close to the edge as you can for maximum grip.
- Cracked display giving you attitude? Slap some clear packing tape over it to help the suction cup stick. If your tape game is strong, you can skip the suction cup altogether. And hey, if things are really wild, go ahead and superglue that suction cup to the shattered screen—just make sure you're ready for the commitment.
Tools Used
Step 9
Slide the opening pick gently under the chunky plastic bezel—trust your eyes, you’re looking for that little gap. The pick should glide without getting hung up. If it’s stubborn and you can't spot the gap, give the screen a bit more lift to help it along.
The screen is held down by some seriously tough watertight adhesive, so getting that first little gap open takes some muscle. If it feels stuck, try heating it up a bit more and gently rocking the screen back and forth to soften the glue until you can slip your tool in.
There's a plastic bezel attached underneath the display that lifts with the screen. Be careful not to wedge a pick between the bezel and display, or you might damage the panel.
- Give that suction cup a good pull with steady hands to open up a tiny gap between the screen and the metal frame—you're doing great!
- Now, slide an opening pick into that little gap between the screen and the plastic bezel (just avoid poking the screen itself). You're on the right track!
Step 10
- Warm up the right edge of your iPhone (the one with the power button) using a hair dryer for about 90 seconds, or until it’s just a tad too hot to handle. Let's get that screen ready for action!
Tools Used
Step 11
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—to avoid poking something important inside.
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge of the iPhone, carefully cutting through the adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck in place.
Step 12
- Grab your hair dryer and warm up the top edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds, or until it feels a bit too hot to comfortably touch. This loosens things up for the next step!
Tools Used
Step 13
Be careful not to push your pick in more than 3 mm, or you might accidentally mess up the front panel sensor array. Keep it light and easy!
The upper edge of the display is held in place with a combination of adhesive and clips.
For a smoother experience, gently tug the front panel assembly downward toward the bottom edge of the phone.
- Slip your pick under the top-right corner of the screen—just like you’re sliding a slice of cake out of the pan.
- Glide the pick around that top-right edge. If it feels stubborn, don’t worry—those clips love to put up a fight.
- Keep sliding along the top edge to slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display hostage.
Step 14
- Give the left edge of your iPhone some love with a hair dryer for about 90 seconds, or until it’s just warm enough that you’d rather not touch it. You’re looking for that perfect ‘almost too hot’ feel—don’t burn yourself though!
Tools Used
Step 15
Watch out for the two sneaky cables hanging out on the left side of your iPhone—one at the top, one just below the middle. Keep your pick away from this zone to avoid giving those cables a bad day.
Step 16
Ease into the twist—no need to rush.
If that sticky stuff is being stubborn, give the left edge another blast of heat.
- Slide a second opening pick into the bottom left corner of your iPhone.
- Now, give both picks a gentle twist together until you hear those left edge clips pop free!
Step 17
Hold your horses on fully separating that display! There are still some delicate ribbon cables keeping it connected to the iPhone's logic board. Let's take it easy and be gentle!
- Turn your iPhone so the right edge is facing you, ready to get this party started!
- Gently open your iPhone by lifting the display from the right side, just like flipping open the front cover of your favorite book.
- Prop the display up against something sturdy to keep it in place while you work your magic on the phone.
- When it's time to put everything back together, lay the display back down in its rightful spot, align those clips along the top edge, and give the top edge a nice press until it clicks into place. If it’s being stubborn and doesn’t snap easily, take a moment to check those clips around the edge and make sure they're not bent out of shape.
Step 18
As you dive into this repair adventure, don’t forget to keep an eye on each screw! Make sure it finds its way back to its original home to keep your iPhone happy and healthy.
- Unscrew the Y000 screw that's 1.25 mm long, holding the battery and display connector cover bracket in place. You're doing great!
- When you're putting everything back together, take a moment to power on your iPhone and check that all the functions are working like a charm before sealing the display back up. Just remember to turn your iPhone completely off again before diving back into your repair work!
Step 19
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the battery and display connector bracket. Careful now, we're almost there!
- Look closely at the little hinges on the right edge of the connector bracket. It's important to line them up with their buddies during reassembly. You'll nail it!
Tools Used
Step 20
Go easy around the black silicone seals on the board connections—they’re the VIPs keeping water and dust out. No need to rough them up!
- Grab a spudger or just use your clean fingernail to gently lift the battery connector out of its cozy little home on the logic board.
- Give the connector a slight bend away from the logic board. This little move is like putting up a do not disturb sign, making sure it doesn't accidentally reconnect and power up your phone while you’re in repair mode.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Grab a spudger or use a clean fingernail to gently lift the OLED panel cable connector out of its slot on the logic board.
- To reattach those connectors, carefully align one side first, then press down until it clicks into place. Do the same for the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—misalignment can bend the pins, and that could lead to some permanent damage.
Tools Used
Step 22
- Unscrew the five tiny Y000 screws, each just 1 mm long, that are holding the front sensor assembly cover bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 23
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift out the front sensor assembly bracket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 24
- Gently pry up the front sensor assembly cable connector using a spudger or even a clean fingernail to disconnect it without a fuss.
Tools Used
Step 25
- Lift off the display assembly like you’re opening a treasure chest.
- If you want to keep your device splash-friendly, take a timeout here to refresh the waterproof adhesive around the edges.
Step 26
- Time to tackle that first screw! Say goodbye to the 1.3 mm-long Phillips #000 screw.
- Next up, let’s take out the 2.1 mm-long Phillips #000 screw. You're on a roll!
- Now, let’s get that 1.6 mm-long Y000 screw out of there. You're doing great!
Step 27
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift away the Taptic engine connector cover bracket. You're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 28
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Unscrew that 3 mm-long standoff screw and set it aside like it's a tiny treasure.
Step 30
- Take a moment to compare your new part with the original one—don't forget to transfer any remaining components or peel off any sticky backings before getting it into place.
- To put everything back together, just follow the steps above in reverse. Make sure to apply fresh adhesive where needed and give the areas a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
- Got e-waste? Make sure to send it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler so it’s disposed of properly.
- Repair didn’t go as planned? No worries! Give troubleshooting a shot, or if you need a hand, feel free to schedule a repair.
