iPhone 11 Pro Taptic Engine Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 30 Steps
The Taptic Engine is the magic behind your iPhone's vibrations and haptic feedback. If you're ready to dive in and replace or remove it from your iPhone 11 Pro, you're in the right place! Follow these steps, and you'll have your iPhone feeling as good as new in no time.
Step 1
Hey there! Before diving in, let's make sure your iPhone battery is below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a drama queen—catching fire or even exploding if it gets punctured. So, play it safe and let's get started!
When you open up your iPhone’s display, you’re breaking that sweet waterproof seal. Make sure to have replacement seals ready if you plan to take this step further, or just be extra careful around liquids when reassembling without replacing them.
- Hit the power button and shut down your iPhone before you start busting it open.
- Unscrew those two 6.7 mm pentalobe screws hanging out at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
Step 2
Be careful not to push that opening pick too deep; we wouldn't want it to hurt your device! Just follow this step to mark your pick and keep everything safe.
Feel free to add some flair by marking the other corners of the pick with different measurements!
Or, if you're feeling crafty, you can stick a coin to a pick about 3 mm from the tip. It's a nifty trick!
- From the tip of your opening pick, measure 3 mm and mark it with a permanent marker to keep things precise.
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses—nobody wants unexpected glass confetti in their eyes!
If your iPhone's screen has decided to join the cracked club, no worries! Just grab some tape and cover that glass to keep any extra breakage in check and avoid any accidental ouchies while you work your magic.
And if you're in a real pinch, a little superglue on the suction cup can help stick it to the screen like a pro.
- Get your hands on some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips across the iPhone's screen until the entire face is securely covered. It's like giving your phone a cozy blanket!
- If the suction cup is being a bit stubborn in the next steps, no worries! Just fold a sturdy piece of tape (like duct tape) into a little handle and lift that screen with style instead.
Step 4
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little tool we've cooked up to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for another method.
For a detailed breakdown on how to get the most out of your Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPhone's surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a little tape can work wonders to give it a better hold.
- Give the blue handle a gentle tug back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Gently slide those arms over the left or right edge of your iPhone.
- Place the suction cups close to the bottom edge of your iPhone—one cup on the front and the other on the back.
- Squeeze the cups together to create some solid suction in the spot you want.
Step 5
- Slide the blue handle forward to secure those arms in place.
- Twist the handle 360 degrees, or until the suction cups stretch just right.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they stay aligned. If they start to drift out of line, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 6
Take it easy – only twist a quarter turn at a time, and give it a minute between each one. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do their magic while you relax.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can also get the job done—just keep the heat in check to avoid roasting the display or battery.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough space, hit the area with a bit more heat and give the handle a quarter turn.
- Warm up that iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro.
- Bend the iOpener so it comfortably rests on the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Take a breather for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a nice little opening gap.
- Gently slide an opening pick into the gap between the screen and the plastic bezel—just avoid poking the screen itself!
- Go ahead and skip the next three steps; you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 7
A little heat on the lower edge of your iPhone helps loosen up the adhesive holding that display in place. This makes it a lot easier to open, so don't worry—you're on the right track!
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about a minute. This will loosen up the adhesive underneath, making it easier to get things moving. Don't rush it – just let the heat do its job!
Tools Used
Step 8
- If you’re rolling with a single suction handle, stick it on the bottom edge of your phone—just steer clear of the curvy glass bit.
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive keeping the display firmly in place is super tough—breaking that first little gap takes some serious effort. If you’re struggling to pry it open, try heating it up a bit more and gently rocking the screen back and forth to soften the glue until you can slip your tool in. Keep it cool and steady!
- Give that suction cup a steady, confident pull—just enough to open up a tiny gap between the screen and the back case.
- Slide your opening pick into the gap, aiming for the spot between the screen and the plastic bezel (not the screen itself).
Step 10
Keep your pick shallow—no more than 3 mm—so you don’t poke anything sensitive inside.
- Take your opening pick for a spin around the lower left corner and glide up the left edge of your iPhone, slicing through that sticky adhesive like a pro.
Step 11
Heads up! There's a fragile cable running along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick there to keep everything safe and sound.
Step 12
Keep your pick insertion under 3 mm to avoid giving those delicate display cables a not-so-fun surprise!
- Pop your pick back in at the bottom edge of the iPhone, then slide it up along the right side to keep loosening that adhesive. Easy does it!
Step 13
The top edge of the display is held in place by a combo of glue and clips, so take your time getting it free.
- Ease the right edge of the screen downward, heading toward the Lightning port—but don’t get too wild, just a gentle nudge.
- Slide your pick into the top-right corner of the phone like you’re sneaking into a secret club.
Step 14
Be careful not to shove your pick more than 3 mm in there, or you might accidentally poke the front panel sensor array. Let's keep that safe and sound!
- Gently keep pulling the display downward, aiming for the Lightning port, until your pick fits comfortably in the gap.
- Glide the pick along to the top left corner and slice through any stubborn adhesive still holding the display in place.
Step 15
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel.
Step 16
Hold your horses! Don't yank the display off just yet—there are some delicate ribbon cables still hanging out with the iPhone's logic board, and we want to keep them safe and sound.
- Pop open your iPhone by swinging the screen up from the left side—think of it as opening a book, but way more high-tech.
- Find something sturdy to lean the display against, so it stays propped up while you're working your magic inside.
- When you're putting things back together, gently lay the display in place, line up the clips along the top edge, and press down on the top until you feel it snap in. If it’s being stubborn, double-check those clips around the edge—they might need a little TLC to get lined up right.
Step 17
As you go through this repair, give each screw its own VIP treatment—keep them organized and make sure they return to their original spot. Your iPhone will thank you for keeping things smooth and damage-free!
- Take out the two 1.3 mm Y000 screws that are holding the battery cover bracket in place. Tiny, but they matter!
- When you’re putting things back together, it’s a smart moment to turn your iPhone on and check if everything’s working before sealing up the display. Just remember to shut it down completely before you keep going.
Step 18
- Take off the bracket and let's get this party started!
Step 19
Be careful not to mess up the black silicone seal around the board connections. This little guy keeps water and dust at bay, so give it the respect it deserves!
- Grab a spudger or your trusty clean fingernail and gently lift that battery connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board. It's like giving it a little hug!
- Once it's out, give the connector a gentle bend away from the logic board. This way, it won't accidentally reconnect and surprise you with a power boost during your repair adventure!
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab your trusty Y000 driver and carefully unscrew the six 1.3 mm screws holding down the logic board cover bracket.
Step 21
- Take off that bracket, nice and easy!
Step 22
- Grab your trusty spudger or even your fingernail to gently disconnect that OLED panel cable connector. You've got this!
- When it's time to reconnect, align those connectors just right! Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Just a heads up—avoid pushing down in the middle. If things get misaligned, those little pins can bend and that's a no-go for your device. Remember, you're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently pop that front sensor assembly cable connector loose.
- Next up, use that same spudger or your fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. You're doing great!
- Now, if you find that any part of your screen is playing hard to get after your repair, just disconnect the battery for a moment. Then, re-seat this connector, giving it a solid click to make sure it’s snug and free from any pesky dust or debris.
Tools Used
Step 24
- Lift off the display assembly like you're opening a treasure chest—slow and steady wins the race.
- If you're planning to swap out the waterproof adhesive, this is your moment to shine! Pause here and get that seal looking sharp.
Step 25
- Grab your trusty Y000 driver and unscrew those four 1.5 mm screws holding the lower battery connector cover in place. Easy, right?
Step 26
- Take off the lower battery connector cover.
Step 27
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the lower battery flex cable straight up to unplug it from its socket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 28
- Grab your spudger and gently lift the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. Easy does it—no need for extra muscle here!
Tools Used
Step 29
A small flathead screwdriver can pinch-hit here, but go slow—those nearby components don’t appreciate surprise pokes.
The standoff screws? Yeah, they’re best tackled with a standoff screwdriver or bit. It’ll make your life a lot easier, trust us!
- Time to tackle the trio of screws holding down the Taptic Engine:
- Pop out the 1.9 mm Y000 screw—small but mighty.
- Next up, the 1.4 mm Y000 screw—blink and you'll miss it.
- And finally, the 4.1 mm standoff screw—this one’s got some height!
Step 30
- Check your new replacement part and compare it to the original one—don’t forget to move over any components or peel off the adhesive backing before getting it all set up.
- Now, just work your way backwards to put everything back together.
- Got some e-waste? Take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and make sure it’s disposed of properly.
- Something went wrong during the repair? No worries! Give troubleshooting a shot, or if you're still stuck, feel free to schedule a repair.
