iPhone XR Earpiece and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 33 Steps
Heads up! This part is specially paired to your unique iPhone right from the factory.
Get ready to dive into the fun world of phone repair! In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps to remove, transfer, or even replace the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly in your iPhone XR. This nifty assembly houses the earpiece speaker, microphone, ambient light sensor, flood illuminator, and proximity sensor – all the cool stuff that makes your phone tick! Remember, this assembly is like a special buddy that’s uniquely paired to your iPhone right from the factory, so when you’re replacing the display, make sure to transfer it from the old one to the new one. The flood illuminator plays a crucial role in your Face ID security feature, and if it’s damaged or not installed correctly, Face ID will throw a tantrum. Swapping it out for a new part? That'll make Face ID sulk too! So, be super careful not to mess with these components during the process. And if anything goes awry, don’t worry, only Apple can bring back your Face ID magic! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Heads up: Before you get started, make sure your iPhone battery is under 25%. If you poke a fully charged lithium-ion battery, things could get a little too hot (and maybe even explosive). Keep it cool and keep it safe!
Popping open your iPhone will mess with its waterproof seals. Make sure you’ve got replacement seals on hand before moving forward, or be extra careful to keep liquids away if you’re putting it back together without swapping them out.
- Before you start, make sure your iPhone is powered down—nobody likes a shock to the system.
- Flip your phone and unscrew those two 6.7 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge. Precision counts, so keep track of them!
- Spot the tiny black rubber gaskets under each screw head. These little guys fend off dust and liquid, so check their shape or swap the screws when putting things back together if they look rough.
Step 2
Watch out! If you shove that opening pick in too deep, you might end up giving your device a little love tap it doesn't deserve. So, let's mark that pick and keep everything safe and sound!
Feeling creative? You can also jazz up the other corners of the pick with different measurements!
Another fun idea: tape a coin about 3 mm from the tip of your pick. It's a neat little trick!
- Grab your opening pick and measure 3mm from the tip. Use a permanent marker to make a mark—this will guide your next steps.
Step 3
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any rogue glass bits that might fly loose during the repair.
Got a cracked iPhone screen? Slap some tape over the glass to keep those shards in line and your fingers safe while you work.
Stubborn suction cup not sticking? Go wild and glue it to the screen—just remember, it's a temporary friendship.
- Cover the entire iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape—think of it as giving your phone a protective glass shield.
- If the suction cup refuses to play nice in the next steps, fold some strong tape (duct tape works wonders) into a makeshift handle and use that to lift the screen instead.
Step 4
The next three steps will show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make opening your device smoother. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead by three steps for a different approach.
Need more details on how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for all the info you need.
If the surface of your device feels too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, simply use some tape to add a little extra traction and help it stick better.
- Grab the blue handle and pull it back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide those arms onto either the left or right side of your iPhone.
- Place the suction cups close to the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front and the other on the back.
- Press the cups together to create a strong grip on the area you want to work on.
Step 5
- Slide that blue handle forward to lock those arms in place—like a high-five for your toolkit.
- Spin the handle all the way around (yep, a full 360!) until you see those suction cups start to stretch their legs.
- Keep an eye on the cups—if they start drifting apart, just loosen them a bit and bring those arms back into alignment.
Step 6
Give the knob a gentle quarter turn, then chill for a minute before the next move. Let the Anti-Clamp work its magic—no need to rush!
You can also try a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up—but be careful! Too much heat might mess with the display or battery, so take it slow and steady.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening enough of a gap, heat the area a bit more and give the handle a quarter turn to loosen things up.
- Warm up that iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
- Gently fold the iOpener so it rests on the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Take a deep breath and give it a minute for the adhesive to loosen up and create a gap.
- Carefully slip an opening pick between the screen and the plastic bezel, but make sure not to damage the screen itself.
- Feel free to skip the next three steps – you’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 7
Warming up the bottom edge of the iPhone loosens the sticky stuff holding the screen in place, making it way simpler to pop open.
- Grab a hairdryer or heat gun, or get your trusty iOpener ready! Apply it to the bottom edge of the iPhone for about a minute to warm up that adhesive underneath. You'll be softening it up like a pro!
Tools Used
Step 8
- Got a single suction handle? Stick it on the bottom edge of your phone—just steer clear of the curvy part of the glass.
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive sealing the display is super tough—getting that first little gap open takes some serious elbow grease. If it’s being stubborn, crank up the heat a bit and gently rock the screen back and forth to soften the glue until you can slip your tool in.
- Give that suction cup a good pull with steady pressure to open up a little space between the front panel and the rear case.
- Slide an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, but steer clear of the screen itself.
Step 10
Be careful not to insert your pick more than 3mm deep – we don’t want any accidental mishaps with the internal components.
- Gently slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and then glide it up the left edge of the iPhone, neatly cutting through the adhesive that’s keeping the display snugly in place.
Step 11
Heads up! There are some sensitive cables hugging the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick where it's marked to keep those cables safe and sound.
Step 12
Be careful not to push your pick more than 3 mm in—those display cables are easy to damage, and nobody wants that!
- Slide your pick back into the bottom edge of your iPhone and smoothly glide it up along the right side to break free the adhesive. Keep it steady and gentle—you're almost there!
Step 13
Those clips are delicate, so take your time and go easy—no need to show off your muscle here.
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—or you might poke the front panel sensor array where it doesn't belong.
The top edge of the display is held in place with a combo of glue and clips, so take it slow and steady.
- Gently slide your opening pick around the top corner of the display, giving it a little wiggle as you pull it down towards the Lightning port. Take your time, no rush here!
- Now, slide that pick to the other corner and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place. Nice and steady!
Step 14
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel. You've got this!
Step 15
Hold off on fully separating the display just yet! There are some delicate ribbon cables still keeping it connected to the iPhone’s logic board. Give it a moment, we’ve got this!
- Start by gently lifting the display up from the left side, kind of like you're opening a book. Easy peasy!
- Once it's open, lean the display against something sturdy to keep it standing while you work on your phone. No one likes a wobbly display!
- When you're ready to put it all back together, carefully position the display, making sure to line up the clips along the top edge. Give the top edge a gentle press to snap it into place. If it feels a bit stubborn and doesn't click right in, take a moment to check the clips around the display's edges to ensure they're not bent. You've got this!
Step 16
Keep a close eye on every screw during this repair and make sure each one goes back to its original spot—this little habit keeps your iPhone safe and sound.
- Take out the three 1.2 mm Y000 screws holding down the battery connector cover bracket.
- Lift off the bracket carefully.
- Before you seal the display back on, this is a perfect moment to power on your iPhone and make sure everything is working smoothly. Once you're done testing, power it down completely before moving on.
Step 17
Be gentle with the black silicone seal that hugs those board connections. These little heroes help keep water and dust at bay, giving your device some extra love and protection.
- Take your trusty spudger and gently pop the battery connector straight up from its socket—like you're waking it up from a nap.
- Tilt the connector a bit away from the logic board. That way, it won’t sneak back in and power up your phone while you’re busy fixing things.
Tools Used
Step 18
- Unscrew those two 1.2 mm Y000 screws that are holding down the display connector bracket. Easy peasy!
- Now, carefully remove the bracket and set it aside. You're on your way!
Step 19
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the digitizer cable. Take it slow and steady—no rush!
- When you're ready to reconnect, line up the connectors carefully. Press down on one side until you hear a satisfying click, then repeat for the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—misalignment could cause damage. Patience is key here!
- If your screen's being stubborn and not responding to touch after your repair, try disconnecting the battery. Then, reseat the connector—make sure it clicks into place and check for any dust or debris in the socket.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Gently use the spudger's tip to carefully unplug the display cable connector. It's a delicate move, but you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 21
Keep an eye on that tiny bracket snugly attached to the edge! It’s held in place by a little clip and can easily get knocked off the bigger bracket if you’re not careful.
- Let's get started by removing the five screws that are holding the logic board connector bracket snugly to the rear case:
- Now, gently take off the bracket.
- Don't forget about that one 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw!
- And there’s also that one 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw.
- Lastly, we’ve got three 1.2 mm Y000 screws to take care of!
Step 22
The shield consists of two parts, and the smaller one is pretty fragile—handle with care! If it gets damaged, the phone’s NFC won’t work. Check out the tips below to keep it safe and sound.
Step 23
- Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift the front sensor assembly connector out of its socket.
Tools Used
Step 24
- Carefully lift out the display assembly and set it aside. Nice work!
- If you’re feeling extra cautious about water sneaking in, this is the perfect time to swap out the waterproof adhesive lining the edges of the display.
Step 25
- First, let's get the speaker/sensor assembly loose from the back of the display. You'll need to remove four screws holding it in place.
- Start with two 1.6 mm Phillips screws – these are your standard screws, so no surprises here.
- Next, grab the 2.3 mm Phillips screw – just one of these to keep things balanced.
- Finally, unscrew the 1.2 mm Y000 screw – it's a bit different, but no worries, you’ve got this.
Step 26
Heads up! The speaker is still hanging on by a super thin flex cable. Go easy—no tug-of-war moves—so you don’t accidentally snap it.
- With your trusty tweezers in hand, carefully flip the speaker assembly over—gently guiding it down and away from the top edge of the display. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 27
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or a heated iOpener and warm up the top front of the display for about a minute to gently loosen the adhesive holding those sensors in place.
Tools Used
Step 28
- Slide the flat side of your spudger under the flex cable hanging out below the microphone—like you’re sneaking under the covers without waking anyone up.
- Give it a gentle twist to loosen the microphone, taking care not to put any stress on that flex cable. No need to get rough, finesse is key!
- If the microphone is playing hard to get, use the pointy end of the spudger to finish the job and pop it out of its cozy notch in the front panel. Still stuck? A bit more heat should convince it to budge.
Tools Used
Step 29
To make things easier, gently lift the speaker out of the way for better access. Just be sure to avoid tugging on that delicate flex cable while you get to work!
- Start from the left and gently slide an opening pick under the flex cable, then sneak it beneath the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module.
- Give it a little wiggle, then lift carefully to separate the module from its snug spot in the front panel.
Step 30
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently slide that little bracket straight up and off the ambient light sensor. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
The sensor is still connected to the sensor assembly by a super delicate flex cable. So, take it easy and treat that little guy with care—no tugging or yanking, please!
If the sensor refuses to budge after a few tries, hit it with a bit more heat and give it another gentle nudge.
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the ambient light sensor free from its cozy notch in the display.
Tools Used
Step 32
- If you’ve snagged the entire ambient light sensor like a pro (see the first photo), you’re good to move on.
- If that little white diffuser strip is still stuck in the display (second photo), work your magic with a thin blade or pry tool along the top edge—warming things up first can help loosen its grip.
- When you’re putting it all back together, pop the diffuser in first and double check the direction (front-facing is in the first image, rear-facing in the third).
- Now, set the ambient light sensor gently on top of the diffuser. You’ll need to keep it steady while you secure the earpiece/sensor assembly with screws. Once those are snug, the sensor will stay put and function like new.
Step 33
- Take a moment to compare your shiny new replacement part with the old one—you might need to swap over some bits or peel off some sticky stuff before you dive into the installation.
- When it's time to put everything back together, just rewind your steps like a pro!
- Don't forget to give your e-waste a new home at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Things not going as smoothly as you'd like? No worries! Check out our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips and support.
