iPhone XR Lower Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 34 Steps
The iPhone XR rocks both the primary loudspeaker and the earpiece speaker to deliver some stereo sound goodness! In this guide, we'll focus on swapping out the primary loudspeaker at the bottom of your phone. If you're experiencing sound issues like silence, muffled audio, or those pesky distortions, a speaker replacement might just be the ticket to getting your tunes back on track!
Step 1
Heads up: Knock your iPhone battery down below 25% before you get started. If you poke a fully charged lithium-ion battery, it could go full fireworks—fire and explosions included. Lower charge, safer fix!
Opening up your iPhone will break its waterproof seals, so be sure to have some replacements handy before you dive into this step. If you're reassembling without new seals, just remember to keep it away from the water!
- Make sure to power off your iPhone before you start taking it apart.
- Next, remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
- Heads up: each pentalobe screw has a little black rubber gasket right under its head. To keep dust and liquids out, check these gaskets and swap them out if needed when you put everything back together.
Step 2
Pushing your opening pick in too deep can cause damage—let's avoid that! Mark your pick to keep things safe and sound.
Feel free to mark other corners of your pick with different measurements for extra precision.
Or, tape a coin to your pick about 3 mm from the tip to create a handy depth gauge.
- Grab your trusty permanent marker and measure out about 3 mm from the tip of the opening pick. Give it a little mark so you know where to go!
Step 3
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any sneaky glass shards that might pop out during the fix.
If your iPhone's screen looks like it's been in a wrestling match, don’t worry! Just grab some tape and cover that glass to keep it from getting worse and to protect yourself while you work on it.
And if you're really in a bind, a little superglue on that suction cup can do the trick to keep it in place while you tackle the repair!
- Place several strips of clear packing tape over the screen of your iPhone, overlapping them so the entire surface is covered.
- Having trouble getting the suction cup to stick? No worries! Simply fold a sturdy piece of tape, like duct tape, into a handle and use that to gently lift the screen instead.
Step 4
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, a nifty tool we've crafted to make opening your device a breeze. If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for an alternative method.
Looking for the full scoop on how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
If your iPhone's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try using tape to give it a little extra traction.
- Pull the blue handle back to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms—like you're opening a treasure chest!
- Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone, whichever feels right for your style.
- Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front and one on the back. You want them to stick just right.
- Give the cups a little squeeze to apply some good suction to the area. It's like giving your iPhone a little hug!
Step 5
- Give that blue handle a little nudge forward to lock those arms in place!
- Now, twist the handle a full 360 degrees or until those suction cups start to stretch out nicely.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they’re playing nice and staying aligned. If they start to wander, just loosen them up a bit and get those arms back in line.
Step 6
Turn just a quarter of a turn at a time and give it a minute to work its magic. Patience is key, let the Anti-Clamp and time do the heavy lifting.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can do the trick, but keep things chill—too much heat might mess with your screen or battery.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough space, hit the area with a bit more heat and give that handle a quarter turn.
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it through the Anti-Clamp like threading a needle. Nice work.
- Fold the iOpener so it sits comfortably along the bottom edge of your iPhone—like tucking in a blanket.
- Hang tight for sixty seconds and let the adhesive loosen up. You should see a little gap soon.
- Slip an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel—aim for the sweet spot, not the screen itself.
- Go ahead and skip the next three steps. No need for extra moves right now.
Tools Used
Step 7
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone loosens the sticky stuff holding the screen down, making it way easier to pop open.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener and warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about a minute to loosen the sticky adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 8
- Grab that trusty suction handle and stick it on the bottom edge of your phone, steering clear of the curved glass corners. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive holding the display in place is pretty tough, so getting that first gap open might take some muscle. If it's being stubborn, heat things up a bit more, and gently rock the screen back and forth to loosen up the adhesive until you can fit your tool in there. Just take it slow and steady!
- Gently pull up on the suction cup with steady pressure to create a small gap between the front panel and the back case. Patience is key!
- Slip the opening pick between the screen and the plastic bezel—just avoid the screen itself. You've got this!
Step 10
Be careful not to insert your pick more than 3 mm in, as it could cause some damage to the delicate components inside.
- Take your opening pick and cruise it around the bottom left corner, then head up the left side of your iPhone, gently slicing through the sticky adhesive that's holding the display on tight.
Step 11
Heads up! There are some sensitive cables hanging out along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick in at the spots we've marked to keep those cables happy and safe.
Step 12
Keep your pick to a maximum of 3 mm to avoid accidentally tangling with those delicate display cables!
- Slide your pick back in at the bottom edge of the iPhone and cruise up the right side—keep separating that stubborn adhesive!
Step 13
Take it easy on the clips—they’re delicate and can snap if you get too rough. Patience is your best friend here!
Keep your pick shallow—no more than 3 mm—to avoid messing with the front panel sensor array.
The top edge of the screen is held in place with a combo of sticky glue and some stubborn clips.
- Carefully slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display while gently pulling or wiggling the display downward toward the Lightning port.
- Then, move the pick to the opposite corner and slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place.
Step 14
- Gently lift the tiny tab on the suction cup to peel it off the front panel.
Step 15
Hold your horses on fully separating that display! There are some delicate ribbon cables still hanging on tight to the iPhone's logic board, and we don't want any accidental breakage.
- Open up the iPhone by gently swinging the display up from the left side, just like flipping open the back cover of a book.
- Prop the display up against something sturdy to keep it from flopping around while you work your magic.
- When putting it back together, place the display in position, line up the clips along the top edge, and press down carefully on the top edge first before snapping the rest into place. If it doesn’t snap in smoothly, double-check those clips around the edges to make sure none are bent or out of shape.
Step 16
Keep a close eye on every screw during this repair and make sure each one returns to its original spot. Mixing them up could lead to some unhappy iPhone moments.
- Start by removing three tiny 1.2 mm Y000 screws that are holding the battery connector cover bracket in place. You've got this!
- Next up, gently take off the bracket. Easy peasy!
- Now, here's a pro tip: while you're at it, this is a perfect time to power on your iPhone and give all the functions a quick test before sealing up the display. Just remember to turn your iPhone off completely before you dive back into the repairs. Keep up the great work!
Step 17
Be careful not to mess up the black silicone seal around this and other board connections. These little guys are crucial in keeping water and dust out, giving your device some extra protection. Treat them gently!
- Grab your spudger and gently use the point to lift the battery connector right out of its spot.
- Give the connector a tiny bend away from the logic board—this will keep it from accidentally touching the socket and powering up your phone while you're working your magic.
Tools Used
Step 18
- Time to tackle those pesky screws! Start by unscrewing the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws that are holding the display connector bracket in place. You've got this!
- Once the screws are out, gently lift away the bracket. You're making great progress!
Step 19
- Grab a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that digitizer cable—easy peasy!
- When it's time to reconnect those connectors, align them carefully and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Just a friendly reminder—avoid pressing down in the middle! If things get misaligned, you might bend some pins, and we definitely don’t want that kind of drama.
- If your screen is playing hard to get and doesn’t respond to touch post-repair, no worries! Simply disconnect the battery and reseat that connector, making sure it clicks in snugly and there's no dust or debris hanging out in the socket.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the tip to disconnect the display cable connector. It’s a delicate move, so take your time!
Tools Used
Step 21
Watch out for the tiny bracket clipped on the edge — it’s held in place by a small clip and can easily pop off if you’re not paying attention.
- Unscrew the five screws holding the logic board connector bracket in place on the rear case:
- Lift off the bracket.
- One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw
- One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw
- Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws
Step 22
The shield is made up of two parts, and the smaller one is a bit fragile. If it breaks, your phone's NFC feature will stop working. Check out the comments below for some tips on how to avoid damaging it.
Step 23
- Gently pop up the front sensor assembly connector using the tip of your spudger—like you’re opening a tiny treasure chest.
Tools Used
Step 24
- Take off the display assembly carefully.
- When putting it back together, this is a great spot to pause if you want to swap out the waterproof adhesive around the display edges.
Step 25
- Let’s get that bracket out from under the Taptic engine and speaker! Remove all seven screws:
- Three Phillips screws (1.4 mm each)
- Two Phillips screws (1.7 mm each)
- One Phillips screw (1.9 mm)
- One Phillips screw (1.6 mm)
Step 26
- Gently lift the bracket from the edge closest to the battery. No need to yank it out completely; it’s still tethered by a little flex cable, so let’s keep that connection intact!
Step 27
- Keep the bracket gently pushed aside while you carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and unplug the flex cable sitting right underneath.
Tools Used
Step 28
- Pop off that bracket with ease!
Step 29
- Peel off the black tape and lift the small rubber rectangle that’s hiding the Taptic Engine connector cover. You're doing great!
Step 30
If you're in a bind, a small flathead screwdriver can step up—but handle it like a pro to avoid slipping and messing up the nearby parts.
Standoff screws are best tackled with a specialized standoff driver or driver bit. Let's make this easier and smoother, so you've got the right tools for the job!
- Unscrew the five screws keeping the lower speaker in place:
- One 2.8 mm standoff screw
- One 2.3 mm standoff screw
- One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
- One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
- One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
Step 31
- First up, let's tackle that little bracket perched in the top right corner of the speaker—give it a gentle nudge and pop it off!
- Next, it's time to uncover the Taptic Engine connector. Just lift off the cover and you're one step closer!
Step 32
- Slide your spudger under the top edge of the speaker, right where the iPhone's case ends.
- Carefully nudge and lift the top edge of the speaker to pop it free.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab the speaker by its side edges and give it a gentle rock from side to side to break the adhesive that's holding it to the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge until you hear that satisfying pop of the adhesive gasket letting go.
Step 34
- Make sure to match up your new replacement part with the original—sometimes you’ll need to move over some bits or peel off adhesive liners before popping it in.
- Put your device back together by reversing the steps you took apart.
- Don’t toss old parts in the trash—take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- If things didn’t go quite right, swing by our Answers community for some handy troubleshooting tips.
