iPhone XS Taptic Engine Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 37 Steps
Ready to give your iPhone XS some new vibes? The Taptic Engine is the secret behind all those satisfying buzzes and rumbles. This guide walks you through taking out and swapping the Taptic Engine. You'll see steps for removing the display assembly completely—it's all about keeping those delicate cables safe. If you've got steady hands and feel confident, you can skip disconnecting the display cables to save some time. Otherwise, follow along and let's keep things smooth and easy.
Step 1
Heads up! Make sure your iPhone battery is below 25% before you start. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a little temperamental — it might catch fire or even explode if poked the wrong way.
Popping open your iPhone’s display will break its waterproof seals. Make sure you have replacement seals handy before moving forward, or be extra careful to keep liquids away if you put it back together without swapping the seals.
- First things first, let’s give your iPhone a little nap. Power it down before we dive into the disassembly adventure!
- Next up, grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver and remove those two 6.9 mm-long screws hanging out at the bottom edge of your iPhone. They’re just waiting to be set free!
Step 2
Be careful not to push your opening pick in too deep, or you might accidentally give your device a little love tap it doesn't need! Marking your pick is a smart move to keep everything safe and sound.
Feel free to jazz up the other corners of your pick with different markings for easy reference.
Another nifty trick? Tape a coin about 3 mm from the tip of your pick. It's like giving your pick a little buddy to help keep things in check!
- Take a ruler and measure out 3 mm from the tip. Grab a permanent marker and make a little mark on your opening pick. You've got this!
Step 3
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any sneaky glass bits that might try to escape during the repair.
Got a cracked screen on your iPhone? No worries! Just tape over the glass to keep any further breakage at bay and avoid any accidental ouchies while you tackle the repair.
If you're in a pinch, a little superglue can do wonders for sticking that suction cup right onto the screen.
- Cover the iPhone's screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape—think of it as giving your phone a protective shield.
- If the suction cup refuses to cooperate, fold a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape does the trick) into a makeshift handle and use it to lift the screen instead.
Step 4
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, our nifty tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to jump down three steps for an alternative method.
For all the juicy details on how to use the Anti-Clamp, make sure to check out this guide.
If your iPhone's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, just grab some tape to give it a little extra traction.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide those arms right over the left or right edge of your iPhone with flair.
- Place the suction cups just above the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front and the other on the back.
- Squeeze the cups together to create a solid grip on that area.
Step 5
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree turn clockwise, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—they should stay lined up. If they start to drift, loosen them a bit and adjust the arms to get them back in sync.
Step 6
Take it easy! Turn just a quarter turn at a time, and give it a minute to settle between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting for you.
Feeling a bit hot under the collar? You can bring in some warmth with a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, but remember: too much heat can be a drama queen and damage your screen or battery! So, handle with care!
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you the gap you need, no worries! Just crank up the heat a little more and give that handle a quarter twist. You've got this!
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it through the Anti-Clamp arms—like threading a needle, but way less stressful.
- Fold the iOpener so it cozies up to the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Give it a minute—let the glue loosen up and the opening gap appear. Patience pays off!
- Slip an opening pick into the gap, aiming for the space under the screen and plastic bezel (not the screen itself—let’s keep it safe).
- Go ahead and skip the next three steps. You’re ahead of the game!
Tools Used
Step 7
Warming up the lower edge of the iPhone is a nifty trick that helps loosen the adhesive holding the display in place, making it a breeze to open up.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener and gently warm the bottom edge of your iPhone for about a minute to loosen up that stubborn adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 8
- Got your suction handle? Great! Now, gently stick it to the bottom edge of your phone—just steer clear of the curved glass area. Keep it cool and steady.
Tools Used
Step 9
The adhesive that's holding the display in place is pretty tough, so opening that first gap is going to require some muscle. If it's not budging, try heating it up a bit more, and gently rock the screen up and down. This will help weaken the adhesive just enough for you to slide your tool in and create a gap.
- Grab the suction cup and pull up steadily with a good, even force to gently pop open a tiny space between the front panel and the back case.
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap beneath the screen and the plastic bezel—make sure you’re going under the bezel, not digging into the screen itself.
Step 10
Keep your pick under 3 mm, just to avoid any accidental damage to the internals. Better safe than sorry!
- Gently slide your trusty opening pick around the lower left corner and then up the left edge of the iPhone, cutting through the adhesive that's keeping the display snugly in place. You've got this!
Step 11
Heads up! There are some fragile cables chilling along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid sliding your pick in there or you might accidentally mess them up.
Step 12
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—so those display cables stay safe and sound.
- Slide your pick back in at the bottom edge of your iPhone, then cruise up the right side to keep peeling that stubborn adhesive away.
Step 13
Take it easy with the clips—they’re a bit fragile, so a gentle touch and some patience go a long way!
Keep your pick insertion under 3 mm to avoid messing with the front panel sensor array.
The top edge of the display is held in place with a combo of glue and clips. It's a solid setup, but don't worry—you've got this!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display while giving it a little pull or wiggle down towards the Lightning port. You're doing great!
- Now, glide that pick over to the opposite corner and slice through any leftover adhesive that's holding the display in place. Almost there!
Step 14
- Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel. You've got this!
Step 15
Hold your horses before you completely detach the display! There are some delicate ribbon cables still hanging on, connecting it to the iPhone's logic board.
- To kick things off, gently lift the display up from the left side, just like flipping open a book. Easy peasy!
- Once it's up, give it a little support by leaning the display against something sturdy while you work your magic on the phone.
- When you're ready to put it all back together, carefully position the display, line up the clips along the top edge, and press that top edge into place. Snap it down gently and make sure it clicks! If it’s being a little stubborn, take a moment to check the clips around the display's edge to ensure they're straight and not bent.
Step 16
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and remove the five screws holding down the logic board connector bracket. Here's the breakdown of the screw sizes you'll be dealing with:
- Pro tip: As you work through the steps, keep those screws organized and make sure they return to the exact spot they came from. This will help keep your device in tip-top shape.
- Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
- One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
- One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
Step 17
The bracket might be stuck on a bit—give it a gentle but confident lift to pop it free.
- Take off the bracket carefully.
- Before sealing that display back into place, it's a great idea to power up your iPhone and give all its functions a quick test run. Once you're happy with everything, make sure to power down your iPhone completely before diving back into the next step.
Step 18
Handle the black silicone seal around the board connections with care—it's like a tiny superhero cape protecting your device from water and dust. Treat it gently for best results.
- Grab a spudger or your clean fingernail and gently lift the battery connector out of its spot on the logic board.
- Give the connector a little nudge away from the board, just enough to keep it from accidentally reconnecting and giving the phone some unexpected juice while you're working your magic.
Tools Used
Step 19
- Gently wiggle a spudger or your fingernail under the front panel sensor assembly connector to pop it loose and disconnect it.
Tools Used
Step 20
- Grab a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently disconnect that OLED panel cable connector. You've got this!
- To reattach those connectors, first, align them just right. Press down gently on one side until you hear a satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing down in the middle—trust us, your pins will thank you! If it looks a bit off, don’t worry; just realign it carefully to prevent any bending that could lead to trouble down the line.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Pop up the digitizer cable connector using a spudger or your fingernail—no need for superhero strength, just a little finesse.
- This connector likes to play hard to get since it’s tucked away. Line it up like you’re aiming for a perfect high five, and press it down gently with your fingertip—one side, then the other. You’ll feel a satisfying click once it’s in place.
- If your screen touch isn’t working after putting everything back together, unplug the battery and give the connector another shot. Make sure it clicks in and the socket is clean—no dust bunnies allowed.
Tools Used
Step 22
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is gently stuck in place.
- Gently lift the cable until the adhesive gives way.
Step 23
- Start by gently taking off the display assembly. Remember, patience is key! If you're feeling adventurous and want to add some waterproof adhesive around those display edges during reassembly, this is the perfect moment to pause and make it happen!
Step 24
- Unscrew the five little guardians keeping those two brackets in place beneath the Taptic Engine and main speaker:
- One 1.0 mm tri-point Y000 screw—tiny but mighty!
- Two 1.3 mm Phillips screws—double trouble!
- One 1.7 mm Phillips screw—not to be confused with its neighbor.
- One 1.8 mm Phillips screw—the big sibling of the bunch.
Step 25
The brackets are gently held in place, just enough to stay put for now.
- Carefully lift each bracket to unstick and remove it—watch out for any bends, we want these parts looking sharp!
- If the brackets are being stubborn, try warming them up a bit with a hair dryer or heat gun to loosen the adhesive. Just a heads-up: avoid using an iOpener here since it might bend the delicate spring contacts along the top.
Tools Used
Step 26
- Unscrew the 1.9 mm Phillips screw holding the speaker connector cover in place.
Step 27
- Pop off the speaker connector cover—just a quick lift and you're good to go!
Step 28
- Gently use a spudger to lift and disconnect the speaker connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 29
When you’re lifting the speaker, just watch out for that flex cable you just disconnected. If it’s in the way, gently bend it toward the battery to give the speaker some breathing room as it pops out.
- Slide a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, getting close to the edge of your iPhone’s case.
- Carefully lift the top edge of the speaker just a little—no need to show off your strength here.
- On the way back in, keep an eye on that flex cable and make sure it’s sitting pretty, not squished under the speaker.
Tools Used
Step 30
A little heat goes a long way! Warm things up gently to loosen that sticky adhesive and make the bumper strip much easier to peel away.
- As you carefully lift the speaker, grab those tweezers and gently peel off the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Grab the speaker by its side edges and give it a gentle wiggle side-to-side to loosen the adhesive holding it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
- Once loosened, carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge until the adhesive gasket lets go.
Step 32
- Start by removing the speaker. It's a simple step, but make sure to handle it gently.
- The adhesive gasket on the speaker won't be able to do its job again, so peel off any remaining sticky residue carefully with your tweezers. Don't rush it!
- To keep your device safe from dust and water, grab a fresh adhesive gasket for reassembly. Give the area a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter to ensure the new gasket sticks perfectly. Now, pop the new gasket on the speaker, and carefully reinstall the speaker back into place.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Unscrew the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place. Don't worry, it's just a small task before you get to the fun part!
Step 35
- Grab the plastic bumper strip and gently pop it up and over the speaker connector. Easy does it!
Step 36
- Take out the Taptic Engine assembly like a pro!
Step 37
- First things first, give your new replacement part a good look-over compared to the original—make sure to swap any leftover pieces or peel off those pesky adhesive backings if needed before you dive into the install.
- Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps from above, and you’ll be golden.
- Got some e-waste? Don't toss it! Take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and do your part for the planet.
- If things didn’t go as smoothly as you'd hoped, don’t sweat it! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips. And remember, if you're feeling a bit stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
