iPhone X Face ID Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 76 Steps
Apple has decided to pair a few parts to the logic board, likely to make sure Face ID stays secure and can't be easily hacked. So, if you're doing a DIY repair, you won’t be able to replace these parts without causing Face ID to stop working. The only way to get Face ID back in action is by swapping all three parts together, using components from an original phone. Here's what you'll need: - Logic Board - Front Facing Camera Assembly (paired to that logic board) - Proximity Sensor / Earphone Assembly (also paired to that logic board) That said, there are other repairs you can try if Face ID stops working, but they do require some microsoldering expertise – it's not a quick DIY job. For example, if the flex cable connecting the front camera to the logic board gets damaged, it can be replaced. But, be warned – it’s tricky without the right equipment and skills. This guide will walk you through replacing the three paired parts from a broken phone into a new one. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Grab a SIM card eject tool or a trusty paperclip and poke it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray, right by the side button on your iPhone’s edge.
- Give it a good, firm press to pop that tray right out.
Tools Used
Step 2
The SIM card is going to pop right out of the tray without any fuss.
- Pop out the SIM card tray from your iPhone with a little gentle push.
- When you're sliding that SIM card back in, make sure it’s lined up properly with the tray — it should fit perfectly!
- The rubber gasket around the SIM tray helps keep dust and water out, so if it's damaged or missing, be sure to replace the gasket or the whole tray. Protect your iPhone's insides!
Step 3
Before you get started, make sure your iPhone battery is under 25%. Trust us, you don’t want a charged lithium-ion battery getting poked—it can get fiery, and nobody likes surprise explosions.
Cracking open your iPhone's display will break those waterproof seals, so make sure you've got replacements on deck if you plan on braving the next rainstorm. If you're skipping the new seals, just keep your phone away from liquids—your iPhone isn’t amphibious.
- Make sure to power off your iPhone before you dive into taking it apart.
- Unscrew the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- If those screws are stripped or messed up, go ahead and swap them out with new ones.
Step 4
Going too deep with your pick can give your device a bad day. Mark your pick so you stay in the safe zone—your gadget will thank you.
Want to be extra precise? Mark all the corners with different measurements for ultimate pick control.
Another trick: tape a coin to your pick, exactly 3 mm from the tip, and you'll never go too far.
- Grab your trusty opening pick and measure about 3 mm from the tip. Once you've got that sweet spot, give it a little mark with a permanent marker so you know exactly where to go. You're doing great!
Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any flying glass bits that might get loose during the repair.
Cracked iPhone screen? Slap some tape over the glass to keep those shards in check and save your fingers from unexpected drama.
If your suction cup refuses to cooperate, break out the superglue and stick it right onto the screen—sometimes you just have to show it who's boss.
- Cover the iPhone's screen completely with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, like wrapping a tiny, techy present.
- If that suction cup just won't stick, no worries! Grab a tough piece of tape (duct tape works great), fold it into a little handle, and use that to gently lift the screen instead.
Step 6
In the next three steps, we'll showcase the Anti-Clamp, our nifty little gadget designed to simplify the opening process. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No biggie! Just skip down three steps for another way to tackle this.
Want the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this handy guide.
If your iPhone's surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, no worries! A little tape can work wonders to give it a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to free the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide those arms right over the edge of your iPhone—left or right, you choose!
- Place the suction cups snugly near the bottom of your iPhone—one on the front and the other on the back.
- Squeeze the cups together to create a solid grip on your device. You've got this!
Step 7
- Give that blue handle a good tug forward to secure the arms in place.
- Now, twist that handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they're playing nice and staying aligned. If they start to wander off course, just loosen them a bit and guide those arms back into line.
Step 8
Take it easy! No more than a quarter turn at a time, and give it a minute to breathe between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do the heavy lifting for you.
If you have a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate handy, you can use them to heat things up—but remember, too much heat can mess with your display or internal battery, so go slow and steady.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't creating enough space, just apply a bit more heat and give the handle a little quarter-turn. You'll get that perfect gap in no time!
- Warm up your iOpener and slide it between the Anti-Clamp’s arms like it’s getting cozy.
- Bend the iOpener so it’s chilling right along the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Kick back for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and an opening gap show itself.
- Slip an opening pick under the front glass and the plastic bezel—don’t poke the screen directly.
- Go ahead and skip the next three steps. Your future self will thank you.
Tools Used
Step 9
Easy does it with the hairdryer or heat gun—too much heat can turn your screen into a sad pancake.
Warming up the bottom edge of your iPhone helps soften the adhesive holding the display in place, making it much easier to lift up and get to work.
- Grab a hairdryer or heat gun (or if you've got an iOpener, that works too), and gently warm up the lower edge of your iPhone for about a minute. This will help loosen the adhesive under there, making it easier to work with. Take your time, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 10
- Stick the suction handle onto the bottom edge of your phone—just steer clear of the curvy part of the glass.
Tools Used
Step 11
The adhesive holding the screen in place is seriously strong, so getting that initial gap takes a bit of muscle. If you're struggling, don't worry! Just add a little more heat and gently wiggle the screen up and down to loosen the adhesive. Once you’ve created enough space, you can slide in your tool and get to work.
- Gently tug on that suction cup with a steady grip to pop open a tiny space between the screen and the frame. You've got this!
- Slide an opening pick into the little gap you've created under the screen's plastic bezel, steering clear of the screen itself. Easy peasy!
Step 12
Keep your pick insertion shallow—no more than 3 mm—to avoid poking around where you shouldn’t and messing up the insides.
- Glide your opening pick along the lower left corner and up the left edge of your iPhone, slicing through the sticky adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck in place. You got this—just keep it smooth and steady!
Step 13
Watch out for those delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Keep your pick away from here, or you might accidentally mess with them!
Step 14
Be careful not to insert your pick more than 3 mm—going too deep could mess with the display cables. Take it slow and steady!
- Slide your pick back in at the bottom edge of the iPhone, then glide it up along the right side to keep loosening that adhesive like a pro.
Step 15
Those clips are delicate—go easy and take your time so they don't snap.
Keep your pick shallow (under 3 mm) to avoid messing with the front panel sensor array.
The top edge of the display is held in place by a combination of glue and clips. Stay patient, and let's tackle this together!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while giving it a little tug or wiggle down towards the Lightning port. We're working together here!
- Now, slide the pick over to the opposite corner and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive that's keeping the display in place. You're doing great!
Step 16
- Gently pull on the little nub on the suction cup to pop it off the front panel. Easy does it!
Step 17
Hold your horses! Don't go disconnecting the display just yet, because those delicate ribbon cables are still having a cozy chat with the iPhone's logic board.
Check it out! Make sure the frame pops off with the display and doesn't decide to hang out in the device instead.
- Open the iPhone by gently swinging the display up from the left side, just like flipping open a book cover.
- Prop the display up against something sturdy so it stays put while you work your magic inside the phone.
- When putting it back together, position the display carefully, line up the clips along the top edge, then press that top edge down first before snapping the rest of the display into place. If it doesn’t snap easily, double-check that the clips around the edges aren’t bent or misaligned.
Step 18
As you dive into this repair adventure, remember to keep an eye on each screw and return it to its original home. This little tip will help you avoid any mishaps with your iPhone. You've got this!
- Alright, let’s get those Y000 screws out! You’ll need to remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket. Here’s the breakdown:
- Three 1.1 mm screws
- One 3.1 mm screw
- One 3.7 mm screw
Step 19
The bracket might be a bit stuck in there. Just give it a gentle yet firm lift to break it free.
- Time to take off the bracket!
- Now, before you wrap things up, power on your iPhone and give all the functions a quick test. Make sure everything’s working smoothly before sealing up the display. Don’t forget to turn your iPhone off completely before you continue – we wouldn’t want any surprises!
Step 20
Be careful not to mess up the black silicone seal that hugs this and other board connections! These little guys are superheroes against water and dust, keeping your device safe and sound.
- Use the tip of a spudger or a clean fingernail to carefully lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
- Gently tilt the connector away from the logic board to keep it from accidentally making contact with the socket and powering up the phone while you work on it.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Gently use the point of a spudger or even your fingernail to carefully disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Easy does it – just a little nudge and you're good to go!
Tools Used
Step 22
- Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
- To reattach connectors like this one, line it up carefully and press down on one side until you hear a click. Then, repeat on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle. If it's not aligned properly, the pins could bend and cause permanent damage. Take your time, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Grab your spudger and gently use the point to lift the digitizer cable connector out of its socket.
- This connector is a bit of a hide-and-seek champion, so don’t rush it. Take your time to line it up just right. Once it’s aligned, press gently—one side first, then the other. You'll hear a satisfying click when it’s in place.
- If your screen isn't responding to touch after the repair, disconnect the battery and carefully re-seat the connector. Make sure it clicks fully into place, and check that there’s no dust or debris lurking in the socket.
Tools Used
Step 24
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is gently stuck in place.
- Gently lift the cable and watch as the adhesive gives way.
Step 25
- Carefully detach the display assembly.
- If you’re planning to swap out the waterproof adhesive along the display edges, take a moment to pause and do it now during reassembly.
Step 26
- Let's kick things off by unscrewing the 1.2 mm Y000 screw located on the back of the display assembly, right by the infrared camera port. Easy peasy!
Step 27
- Right under that screw you just took out, there’s a little metal grounding clip hanging out. If it didn’t tag along when the screw left, go ahead and pick it up now.
- When you’re putting things back together, line up the clip just like in the picture. Keep it steady while you pop the screw back in and tighten it up.
Step 28
- Time to evict two more Y000 screws from the speaker/sensor assembly:
- One 1.6 mm screw—small but mighty.
- One 1.3 mm screw—don’t let its size fool you.
Step 29
Heads up! The speaker is still hooked up by a super thin flex cable—handle it gently to avoid any unwanted damage or stress.
The earpiece speaker is gently secured in position, just hanging out with a light grip. Easy does it!
- Grab your trusty spudger and carefully work it under the top edge of the speaker assembly. Gently flip it over, moving it down and away from the top edge of the display. Nice and easy—you're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab a hairdryer or heat gun, or go ahead and prepare your trusty iOpener. Gently apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute. This will help soften up the adhesive holding the sensors in place, making your next steps a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 31
- Gently slide the flat edge of your spudger beneath the flex cable located just below the microphone. You've got this!
- Twist it lightly to help separate the microphone, but remember to be gentle—no need to put any stress on that flex cable.
- If necessary, use the tip of the spudger to help finish popping the microphone out of its little home in the front panel. You're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 32
Go ahead and gently lift the speaker out of the way for easier access, but keep an eye on that skinny flex cable—no tug-of-war moves here!
- Begin on the left side and slide an opening pick under the flex cable and beneath the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module.
- With a gentle wiggle and lift, separate the module from its cozy spot in the front panel.
Step 33
The sensor is still hooked up to the rest of the sensor assembly by a super thin flex cable. Handle it gently to avoid stretching or damaging it.
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the ambient light sensor free from its cozy notch in the display.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Alright, if you’ve successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor as shown in the first photo, awesome, you’re ready for the next step!
- If that white diffuser strip decided to stick around and got stuck in the display, like in the second photo, just gently pry it out from the top edge with a thin blade or pry tool. A little heat might help loosen things up, making this part a bit easier.
- Now, for the reassembly! Start by placing the diffuser back into the display, making sure it's facing the right way. The front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is in the third.
- Next, put the ambient light sensor back on top of the diffuser. Hold it steady while you secure the earpiece/sensor assembly with the screws. Once those screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work just like it should!
Step 35
- Let's get started by gently taking out the earpiece speaker and the front sensor assembly. Easy peasy!
- When you're putting everything back together, make sure to double-check the placement of the black plastic module that holds these little guys:
- It's super important that these components aren't getting cozy with any sticky adhesive. Keep an eye on these:
- Proximity sensor
- Flood illuminator
Step 36
Watch out for those three rows of grounding pads at the bottom of your iPhone – give them a wide berth!
- Let's get those screws out! Start by removing the seven screws that are holding the bracket down beneath the Taptic Engine and speaker:
- Two Y000 screws, measuring 1.9 mm
- One Y000 screw at 1.2 mm
- One Y000 screw at 1.6 mm
- One Phillips screw at 2.4 mm
- One Phillips screw at 1.7 mm
- One Phillips screw at 1.5 mm
Step 37
- Gently lift the bracket starting from the side closest to the battery. Don’t yank it off completely just yet—it’s still hanging on by a tiny flex cable.
Step 38
- With the bracket out of the way, grab a spudger and gently use its tip to lift and disconnect the flex cable hiding underneath. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Take off the bracket, and you'll be one step closer to your repair adventure!
Step 40
- Take out the 2.1 mm Y000 screw that's keeping the speaker connector cover in place. Easy does it!
Step 41
- Pop off that speaker connector cover—easy does it!
Step 42
- Gently nudge the spudger's tip under the speaker connector and lift it up to disconnect.
Tools Used
Step 43
When you're lifting up the speaker, be super careful not to mess up that flex cable you just disconnected. If it gets in the way, gently push it aside so the speaker can wiggle free without any drama.
- Slide a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, right by the edge of the iPhone's case. You're doing great!
- Gently lift and pry up the top edge of that speaker like you're revealing a hidden treasure.
- When you're putting the speaker back in, double-check the flex cable's position to ensure it stays out of trouble and doesn't get pinned underneath the speaker.
Tools Used
Step 44
- Grab the speaker by the edges and give it a gentle side-to-side wiggle to break the adhesive’s grip on the bottom edge of your iPhone.
- Now, slowly peel the speaker away from the bottom edge, until you hear the satisfying sound of that adhesive finally letting go.
Step 45
- Take out the speaker with care.
Step 46
Keep those fingers off the sticky stuff! Grab the gasket only by the outer edges of the liner to keep things neat and tidy.
- Hey there! Just a heads up, the speaker's gasket is a one-time wonder—it's not reusable. So, let’s make sure we replace it during reassembly, shall we?
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel off all that old gasket from both the frame and the speaker. It’s like peeling a banana but less delicious!
- Next up, take a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any sticky adhesive residue left behind on the frame and speaker. We want it squeaky clean!
- Before we pop in the new gasket, let's check its orientation. The larger cutout should fit snugly around the speaker grille mesh. Easy peasy!
- Now, remove the bigger, clear liner from the gasket and, with the help of your tweezers, carefully position the gasket on the bottom of the speaker. Precision is key!
- Time to secure that gasket! Use your fingers or a spudger to press it down firmly so it sticks nice and tight.
- Last but not least, take off the remaining liner and place the speaker back in its rightful spot. Just make sure the speaker connector isn't getting trapped underneath—nobody likes a stuck connector!
Step 47
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the Taptic Engine with a steady hand and a smile.
Step 48
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. It's a simple move that'll make a big difference!
Tools Used
Step 49
- Carefully lift out that Taptic Engine to keep the good vibrations coming!
Step 50
The iPhone X battery hangs on with four strips of stretch-release adhesive—one up top and three down below.
- Each strip of adhesive comes with a black pull-tab at the end, which gently sticks to the battery’s side edge, making it easy to grab and pull.
Step 51
Avoid poking the battery with anything sharp—trust us, batteries don’t appreciate acupuncture. A pierced battery can leak some pretty gnarly stuff or even catch fire.
Each tab features a nifty little loop right in the middle; if you're finding it tricky to get a grip on the tab, feel free to slide a tool through that loop for a helping hand.
- Peel away the first battery adhesive tab from the lower edge of the battery. It's like a mini treasure hunt, so take it slow and steady!
Step 52
Be extra cautious not to mess up the speaker cable connector right below the center adhesive tab. Treat it like a delicate treasure!
- Go ahead and do the same for the last two adhesive tabs stuck to the bottom edge of the battery—almost there!
Step 53
If those strips snap, no worries! They don’t always play nice. Keep going for some handy tips on getting those stubborn bits off.
Alright, here's where you gently tug each tab to stretch out the adhesive hiding under your battery. This magic sticky stuff lets go when you stretch it—and then you can just peel it away and lift the battery out like a pro.
- Boost your chances of success with these tips:
- If a strip decides to play hide and seek under the battery and you can't find it, just move on to the other strips and keep following the steps below.
- Remember, don’t press down on the battery. Hold your iPhone confidently by its sides.
- As you pull, keep those strips nice and flat – no wrinkles allowed!
- Take it slow! Give each strip about 15-30 seconds to stretch and separate as you pull.
- Pull at a gentle angle to prevent the strip from catching on the battery’s bottom edge.
Step 54
If any of the adhesive strips tear and get stuck under the battery with no way to grab them, just carefully remove whatever you can and keep moving forward with the steps below.
The strip is stretchy—way stretchier than you might expect. Keep pulling, and if you need to, grab the strip near the battery to keep it moving.
If the adhesive tabs snap during removal, no worries! Use your fingers or some blunt tweezers to grab the leftover adhesive and keep going.
- Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and gently pull it away from the battery, guiding it toward the bottom of the iPhone.
- Pull with a steady hand, keeping constant tension on the strip until it pops free from between the battery and the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 55
- Do the same thing on the other side—gently peel off that strip, but leave the one in the middle for dessert (aka, last).
Step 56
- Lift out the center strip with care—don’t let it catch on the speaker flex cable, or you’ll have a whole different project on your hands.
Step 57
The final pull tab is pretty close to the Face ID hardware. Be extra careful here—if it's damaged, only Apple can fix it. So, take your time and handle with care!
- Gently peel back the final adhesive strip from the top edge of the battery cell and carefully separate the pull tab. You're almost there!
Step 58
Heads up: when you're peeling that strip, it might send the battery flying—so keep a hand hovering over it like you're catching a pop fly. Just don’t press down, or you’ll risk snapping the adhesive underneath.
Skip the brute force—if the battery’s being stubborn, a few more drops of alcohol should help loosen things up. And definitely don’t poke or bend the battery with your tool unless you want a firework show.
Watch out for those ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil tucked right under the battery. Treat them like fragile treasure, not like yesterday’s leftovers.
If the adhesive decides to play hard to get and breaks off under the battery with no way to grab it, drip a few drops of high-concentration (90%+) isopropyl alcohol right at the edge where the sticky strip gave up.
For other clever tricks to loosen that stubborn battery from its case, keep on rolling to the next step below.
- Give that last adhesive strip a gentle pull and remove it—like pulling the tab on a cold drink.
- Nailed all four strips? You’re good to skip ahead. If not, hang tight.
- Let the alcohol solution do its thing for about a minute. Then, grab the flat end of your spudger and lift the battery with a little finesse.
Tools Used
Step 59
If you're using pry tools to lift the battery out of your iPhone, go slow and gentle—there are delicate ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil hanging out right underneath. No need to turn this into a surprise party for your phone’s insides.
Warm up the iPhone until the back feels almost too hot for comfort, but don’t go wild with the heat. Overdoing it could turn your battery into a fire hazard, and nobody wants a spontaneous science experiment.
- If any of the adhesive strips have come loose and the battery is still stuck to the rear case, it's time to bring out the heat! Grab your iOpener or a hair dryer and warm up the area behind the battery.
- Once that’s heated up, flip the phone back over and carefully slide a strong piece of string (dental floss or thin guitar string works great) underneath the battery.
- Now, give it a gentle back-and-forth motion with the string, kind of like a sawing action, to loosen the adhesive. This part might take a little time since the adhesive isn't in a hurry, but hang in there, it’ll come free. Just be careful not to damage or bend the battery.
- To protect your fingers (and your sanity), wrap the ends of the string around a cloth or wear gloves.
Tools Used
Step 60
- Grab the battery by the bottom edge and give it a gentle pull to remove it from the iPhone.
- If there's any leftover alcohol solution inside, just give it a quick wipe or let it dry out before you pop in the new battery.
- Make sure to reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before putting in the new battery. This keeps everything lined up properly while you’re working.
- Before sticking the new battery down, hook it back up to the logic board socket temporarily. This ensures it sits right in its spot.
- No adhesive on your new battery? No worries! Check out our guide on replacing the adhesive strips if needed.
- Give your phone a force restart once it's all back together. It’s a great way to avoid potential issues and keep things running smoothly.
- Stick the battery in place, disconnect it for now, and finish putting your device back together. Almost there!
Step 61
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pop off the three cables for the front camera squad:
- First up—the dot projector.
- Next, the front-facing camera.
- And lastly, the infrared camera.
Tools Used
Step 62
The camera cables are gently stuck to the midframe.
- Grab your trusty spudger and let’s get to work! Start at the connector and gently slide the spudger in between the IR camera cable and the case to carefully detach that cable. Easy peasy!
- Now, let’s do the same for the front camera cable. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 63
- Give the front camera assembly a little heat to loosen that stubborn adhesive. Just enough to make it easy to separate, not too much to overdo it!
Step 64
- Carefully take out the front camera assembly to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 65
- Unplug these cable connectors like a pro:
- Pop off the WiFi Antenna connector.
- Disconnect the Wide-Angle Camera connector.
- Unhook the Power Button, Flash, and Microphone connector.
- Remove the Telephoto Camera connector.
- Unclip the Dock Flex connector.
- Take out the Button and Wireless Charging connector.
- Detach the Cellular Antenna connector.
Step 66
- Gently unplug that WiFi Antenna cable connector—think of it as giving your device some breathing room!
Step 67
- Gently unplug the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector—like you're detaching a tiny, high-tech seatbelt.
Step 68
- Gently unplug the connector for the Power Button, Flash, and Microphone cable—give it a little wiggle if it’s being stubborn.
Step 69
- Gently unplug that Telephoto Camera cable connector—give it a little wiggle if needed, and it should pop right out!
Step 70
- Unplug that Dock Flex cable connector—easy does it.
- Lift the cable straight up at a cool 90-degree angle. That’ll give you space to get the logic board out.
Step 71
- Unplug the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector and set it aside. You're doing great!
Step 72
- Unplug the Cellular Antenna cable connector like a pro.
- Gently maneuver the cable out of the way so it's not in your way.
Step 73
Pop that metal grounding tab back in with the same vibe it had before—keep it facing the same way.
- First things first, the logic board won't budge with the SIM card tray still in there. If you forgot to take it out earlier, now's the time to do it!
- Next up, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove those two mounting screws.
- Now, let’s get that 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw out of the way.
- Time to detach the grounding tab - it’s just hanging out there!
- Don't forget about that 2.7 mm Phillips screw – let’s get it off!
- And lastly, let’s tackle the 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
Step 74
- When you pop out the SIM card, a little pin slides out from the frame and nudges the eject lever in the SIM card holder. Make sure to gently push that pin back into the frame so it doesn’t get in the way when you’re removing the logic board.
Step 75
- Grab those fine tip tweezers and gently nudge the SIM card eject lever towards the edge of the case. No need to wrestle—just a smooth move.
- When you’re done, the lever will be in its new spot, and the pin won’t be blocking the logic board anymore. Nice work!
Tools Used
Step 76
- To put your device back together, just reverse the steps you followed—easy peasy! And if you hit a snag, no worries, you can always schedule a repair with us.
