iPhone X Front Panel Screen Retainers Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 71 Steps
The front panel clips keep your display snug and secure. If one of them breaks, don't worry – this guide has got your back to show you how to swap them out.
Step 1
- Grab a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip and pop it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray, right next to the side button on your iPhone’s edge.
- Give it a firm press to make the tray slide out.
Tools Used
Step 2
Heads up! The SIM card might pop right out of the tray, so keep a close watch when handling it.
- Pop out the SIM card tray from your iPhone—just like opening a tiny secret door.
- When you put the SIM card back in, make sure it’s lined up with the tray. Trust us, your iPhone likes things neat.
- There’s a slim rubber gasket around the SIM tray that keeps water and dust from sneaking in. If it looks beat up or is missing, swap the gasket or the tray itself to keep your iPhone’s insides happy and dry.
Step 3
Hey, before you dive in, make sure your iPhone battery is below 25% charge. Lithium-ion batteries are a bit dramatic and can catch fire or explode if poked while fully charged. Stay safe and let's get to fixing!
Opening up your iPhone's display means those nifty waterproof seals are going to take a hit. So, make sure to have some replacement seals ready to go before diving into this step. If you decide to put your iPhone back together without swapping out the seals, just be extra careful to keep it away from any liquids. Better safe than soggy!
- First things first, power off your iPhone. It's like giving it a little nap before we get into the good stuff.
- Next, grab your pentalobe screwdriver and remove the two 6.9 mm-long screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone. Make sure you don’t lose them—they’re tricky little guys.
- If the screws are stripped or damaged, no worries! Just swap them out for new ones. And hey, if you're stuck, feel free to schedule a repair.
Step 4
If you push the opening pick in too deep, you might accidentally mess up your device. To avoid that, mark your pick so you know exactly how far to go.
Feel free to mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements too—it’s like giving your tool a little measuring tape.
Another neat trick is to tape a coin to your pick about 3 mm from the tip to act as a handy depth guide.
- Grab your opening pick and measure 3 mm from the tip. Mark that spot with a permanent marker so you know exactly where to start.
Step 5
Grab some safety glasses to shield your eyes from any flying glass bits while you work. Better safe than sorry!
Cracked screen? Slap some tape over that glass to keep the shards in check and your fingers safe while you work.
Still can’t get the suction cup to stick? Go wild and superglue it right onto the screen for extra grip.
- Cover the iPhone's screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape—think of it as giving your phone a shiny new jacket.
- If the suction cup refuses to cooperate in the next steps, grab some duct tape, fold it into a sturdy handle, and use that to lift the screen instead. MacGyver would be proud.
Step 6
In the next three steps, we'll introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, our nifty little gadget designed to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries! Just hop down three steps for a different approach.
Want to master the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for all the tips and tricks you need!
If your iPhone's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a little tape can work wonders to give it some extra traction.
- Pull the blue handle back—this unlocks the Anti-Clamp’s arms and gets the party started.
- Slide those arms over your iPhone’s left or right edge. Pick a side, any side.
- Line up the suction cups near the iPhone’s bottom—one for the front, one for the back. They like to stick together.
- Squeeze the cups so they grab onto your phone. You’re ready for action!
Step 7
- Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms into place. It's like giving them a firm handshake.
- Give the handle a nice 360-degree twist, or keep going until you feel the suction cups start to stretch. Don't worry, they know what they're doing.
- Check that the suction cups are still lined up perfectly. If they start to wander off course, just loosen them a little, realign the arms, and get them back on track.
Step 8
Take it easy and only twist that knob a quarter turn at a time, then kick back for a minute between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp do its magic while you give it some time to work its wonders.
Feel free to grab a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but remember, too much heat can be a troublemaker for your display and internal battery, so take it easy!
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making enough room, give that area a little more warmth and twist the handle a quarter turn. You've got this!
- Heat up your iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like you're opening a treasure chest.
- Fold the iOpener so it rests gently on the bottom edge of your iPhone, like it's giving it a cozy little nap.
- Give it about a minute. Let the adhesive loosen up so you can make your grand opening.
- Now, carefully slide an opening pick between the screen and the plastic bezel, but don't mess with the screen directly!
- You can skip the next three steps. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
If you’re using a hairdryer or heat gun, keep the heat chill—too much can zap your screen and nobody wants that!
Gently warming the bottom edge of your iPhone helps loosen the adhesive holding the screen in place, making it easier to pop open without a fuss.
- Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener, and gently warm up the lower edge of your iPhone for about a minute to loosen the stubborn adhesive underneath.
Tools Used
Step 10
- If you're working with a single suction handle, stick it to the bottom edge of the phone—just steer clear of the glass's curved corners to avoid any trouble.
Tools Used
Step 11
The sticky waterproof stuff holding your screen down is seriously tough—getting that first gap open takes some muscle! If it’s being stubborn, hit it with some more heat and gently wiggle the screen up and down. Once you spot a gap, slip your tool in and keep going.
- Grab the suction cup and pull upward with steady, confident pressure to gently create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap beneath the screen’s plastic bezel—make sure to avoid poking the screen itself!
Step 12
Keep your pick under 3 mm, or you might accidentally poke something you didn't mean to!
- Carefully slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left side of the iPhone, gently cutting through the sticky adhesive that’s keeping the display glued down.
Step 13
Careful now! There are some fragile cables snuggled up along the right edge of your iPhone. Avoid inserting your pick here, or you might end up giving those cables a bad day.
Step 14
Keep your pick under 3 mm deep—going further might poke the display cables, and nobody wants a surprise like that!
- Slide your pick back into the groove at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and gently glide it up the right side to keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive.
Step 15
Take it slow! The clips can snap if you’re too heavy-handed. Patience is key, so give yourself some time.
Don’t push your pick more than 3mm in—going too deep could mess with the front panel sensors. Keep it gentle!
The top edge of the display is held in place by a mix of sticky glue and some sneaky clips.
- Gently slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, and with a little tug or wiggle, guide the display towards the Lightning port.
- Move the pick to the opposite corner and carefully slice through any remaining adhesive that’s holding the display in place.
Step 16
- Gently tug on the little nub of the suction cup to lift it off the front panel. You got this!
Step 17
Be careful not to fully separate the display just yet! There are some delicate ribbon cables still holding it to the logic board—take your time with this step.
As shown, make sure the frame comes off along with the display and doesn’t get caught up inside the device. Patience pays off here!
- Pop open your iPhone by swinging the display up from the left, like you’re opening a hardcover book.
- Prop the display against something sturdy to keep it out of the way while you work your magic inside.
- When putting things back together, rest the display in place, line up the clips along the top, and gently press the top edge first before snapping the rest down. If it doesn’t click into place smoothly, take a peek at the clips around the display and make sure none of them are bent.
Step 18
Screws are like puzzle pieces—make sure every one goes back to its original spot so your iPhone stays happy and healthy.
- Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
- Three 1.1 mm screws
- One 3.1 mm screw
- One 3.7 mm screw
Step 19
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
- Take off the bracket. Easy, right?
- Now, before you go sealing everything back up, it's a great idea to power on your iPhone and make sure all the functions are working like a charm. Once you’ve checked everything, make sure to turn it off completely before you continue. No one likes a surprise reboot!
Step 20
Be gentle with the black silicone seal around this and other board connections. It's there to keep out water and dust, so treat it with care – it's your device’s unsung hero!
- Grab a spudger or just use your fingernail, and gently pop the battery connector off its spot on the logic board. Go slow—no wild moves needed.
- Tilt the connector away from the board so it doesn’t sneak back into place and accidentally give your phone some juice while you’re working.
Tools Used
Step 21
- Gently pry up the front panel sensor assembly connector using the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to unplug it.
Tools Used
Step 22
- Grab a spudger or use a fingernail to gently disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. Easy does it!
- When it’s time to reconnect, align the connectors carefully. Press down on one side until it clicks, then move to the other side. Avoid pressing down on the middle. If the connector gets misaligned, you might bend the pins, which could cause permanent damage. Take it slow, and you'll do just fine!
Tools Used
Step 23
- Gently use the spudger's point to lift the digitizer cable connector out of its snug socket. It's a bit of a tight squeeze!
- Reconnecting this sneaky connector can be a bit of a challenge, so take a deep breath and align it just right. Once you're set, press it down gently with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You'll feel a satisfying click when it's snugly in place.
- If your screen decides to be a little stubborn and doesn't respond to touch post-repair, no worries! Just disconnect the battery, pop this connector out, and then firmly reseat it. Make sure it clicks fully into place, and check for any pesky dust or debris in the socket.
Tools Used
Step 24
The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is gently stuck in place, so take it easy when handling it.
- Gently lift the cable and watch as the adhesive releases. Take it slow and steady!
Step 25
- Gently take off the display assembly. Handle with care—no sudden ninja moves!
- Thinking about swapping out that waterproof adhesive around the edges? Now’s the perfect pit stop during reassembly.
Step 26
Watch your step and steer clear of the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone. They're like the secret club of the device—best not to disturb them!
- Time to go screw hunting! Take out the seven screws holding down the bracket underneath the Taptic Engine and speaker:
- Two Y000 screws, 1.9 mm each
- One Y000 screw, 1.2 mm
- One Y000 screw, 1.6 mm
- One Phillips screw, 2.4 mm
- One Phillips screw, 1.7 mm
- One Phillips screw, 1.5 mm
Step 27
- Gently lift the bracket starting from the edge closest to the battery. Keep in mind, don’t yank it off completely just yet—it’s still connected by a tiny flex cable that’s holding on tight.
Step 28
- Gently hold the bracket aside, then use the tip of your spudger to lift and disconnect the flex cable hiding underneath. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Time to detach that bracket! Carefully take it off, making sure you're not rushing. A little finesse goes a long way!
Step 30
- Grab your screwdriver and take out the 2.1 mm Y000 screw that's holding the speaker connector cover in place. It’s a small step, but it gets us closer to the magic happening inside!
Step 31
- Take off the cover for the speaker connector.
Step 32
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and unplug the speaker connector like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 33
When popping up the speaker, be gentle with that flex cable you just disconnected. If it's in the way, just tuck it aside for a moment so the speaker has some space to come out without any drama.
- Slip a spudger gently under the top edge of the speaker, close to the iPhone's case. You're almost there!
- Carefully lift the top edge of the speaker – it's like giving it a little nudge to help it out of its comfy spot.
- When putting the speaker back in, double-check the flex cable placement to make sure it doesn't get squished under the speaker. It’s all about that perfect fit!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Grip the speaker by the side edges and gently wiggle it back and forth to loosen the sticky adhesive holding it to the bottom of your iPhone.
- Carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge until the adhesive gasket lets go.
Step 35
- Carefully take out the speaker.
Step 36
When handling the gasket, make sure to grip it by the outer edges of the liner to avoid getting your hands stuck on the sticky adhesive. Keep it cool and clean!
- The speaker's gasket is one-and-done, so be sure to replace it during reassembly.
- Grab some tweezers and peel off all the old gasket from the frame and speaker. It’s time for a clean slate!
- Take a microfiber cloth and a bit of isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any leftover adhesive on both the frame and the speaker. We want it nice and clean.
- Before popping the new gasket in, check out its orientation. The large cutout should go around the speaker grille mesh—just make sure it’s lined up right.
- Peel off the big, clear liner from the gasket and use your tweezers to gently place it on the bottom of the speaker.
- Press the gasket into place with your fingers or a spudger, ensuring it sticks securely with the adhesive.
- Remove the final liner and carefully set the speaker in place, making sure the connector doesn’t get caught underneath. You’re almost done!
Step 37
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the Taptic Engine. Keep it safe!
Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently detach the Taptic Engine from its place.
Step 40
The iPhone X battery is held down with four strips of stretch-release adhesive—one up top and three at the bottom.
- Each piece of adhesive features a handy black pull-tab at the end, which is gently stuck to the side edge of the battery. Just give it a little tug to get things moving!
Step 41
Hey there! Avoid poking the battery with anything sharp. A little poke could lead to a leak of some nasty chemicals or even a fire. Let's keep things safe and sound!
Each tab features a handy little loop right in the middle; if you're finding it tricky to grab that tab, just slide a tool through the loop for a better grip.
- Gently peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery—like unwrapping a present, but stickier.
Step 42
Heads up! Be extra gentle around the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab to keep it safe and sound.
- Do the same thing for the last two adhesive tabs along the bottom edge of the battery—just keep those tabs moving, and you’re almost there!
Step 43
No need to stress if those strips snap! They don't always behave as expected. Just hang tight and check out our extra tips for tackling those stubborn broken strips.
Alright, time to work some magic. In the next few steps, you’ll pull each tab to gently stretch out the adhesive beneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive is designed to lose its stickiness as you stretch it, so it’ll easily come right off in your hand, letting you lift the battery with zero hassle.
- Here are some tips to keep things rolling:
- If one of those adhesive strips snaps under the battery and you can't fish it out, just move on to the next strip. You can tackle the leftover bits in the steps that follow.
- Keep a firm grip on your iPhone by its sides—no need to squish the battery.
- Try to keep those strips nice and flat while you pull, and avoid letting them bunch up.
- Slow and steady wins the race! Give each strip a good 15-30 seconds to stretch and do its thing.
- Aim for a low angle while pulling the strip so it doesn’t get hung up on the bottom edge of the battery.
Step 44
If one of those sticky strips snaps off under the battery and refuses to come out, just pull out whatever you can and keep cruising with the steps below.
The strip can stretch way beyond its original length. Keep pulling and grab the strip closer to the battery again if you need to.
If the adhesive tabs snap off while you're pulling, just use your fingers or some blunt tweezers to fish out the leftover adhesive and keep going.
- Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and gently pull it away from the battery, directing it toward the bottom of the iPhone.
- Keep a steady pull and maintain constant tension on the strip until it slides out from between the battery and the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Go ahead and tackle the other side by removing the strip, leaving the center strip for last. You're doing great!
Step 46
- Gently lift the center strip, but watch out for that sneaky speaker flex cable! You don't want to snag it.
Step 47
Be super careful with that last pull tab! It's hanging out right by the Face ID hardware. If you accidentally mess it up, the only way to get Face ID back in action is to reach out to Apple. So, take your time and handle with care!
- Gently peel up and split the pull tab on the last adhesive strip, right at the top edge of the upper battery cell. Take it slow—no wild moves needed!
Step 48
Watch out for the battery! When you peel off the strip, it might just pop out like a surprise party guest. Keep your hand over it to prevent any wild escapes, but remember—no need to press down on it, or you might just break the adhesive strip's spirit.
Don't go all Hulk on the battery! If it's being stubborn, a few extra drops of alcohol will help it loosen up. And please, keep your pry tool gentle; no need to give the battery a makeover with any bends or punctures.
Heads up! Be extra careful around those ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil hiding just beneath the battery. We wouldn’t want any accidental damage!
If the adhesive underneath the battery decides to play hide and seek and won’t come off, drip a few drops of high-strength (90% or more) isopropyl alcohol right at the edge where the sticky stuff gave up.
Want to try other ways to loosen that stubborn battery? Keep going to the next step below.
- Give that last adhesive strip a gentle pull and let it slide out.
- If all four strips are out and about, you can skip ahead—no extra drama needed.
- Pour yourself a coffee break for a minute while the alcohol works its magic. Then, grab the flat end of a spudger and carefully lift out the battery like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 49
If you're using pry tools to lift out the battery, keep it cool—those ribbon cables and the wireless charging coil are hanging out right underneath, and they do not appreciate surprises.
Warm up your iPhone until the back feels just a bit too cozy to touch, but don’t go wild—overheating could turn your battery into a fire hazard, and that’s not the kind of drama anyone wants.
- If those pesky adhesive strips have decided to play hide and seek, and your battery is still glued to the rear case, grab your trusty iOpener or a hair dryer and give that rear case a little warmth right behind the battery.
- Now, flip your iPhone back over and slide a sturdy piece of string (think dental floss or a fine guitar string) under the battery.
- Gently pull that string from side to side in a sawing motion along the battery's length to break free the adhesive. It might take a bit of time since the adhesive likes to hold on tight, but hang in there! With a little patience, the battery will release without any damage. Just remember to handle it with care!
- Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth or throw on some gloves to keep your fingers safe and sound.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Lift the battery out by its bottom edge and set it aside—look at you, making progress!
- If you spot any leftover alcohol solution hanging out in your phone, give it a gentle wipe or just let it chill and air dry before popping in the new battery.
- Put the Taptic Engine and speaker back in before installing your fresh battery—this keeps everything lined up just right.
- Before sticking the replacement battery down, plug its connector into the logic board socket for a sec. This helps you make sure it’s sitting in the perfect spot.
- If your new battery is missing adhesive strips, check out Salvation Repair’s guide for swapping them in.
- Once you’ve put it all back together, do a force restart. It’s like hitting refresh—this can ward off weird issues and makes troubleshooting smoother.
- Stick the battery in place, unplug it, and keep reassembling your device. You’re almost done!
Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to disconnect the following cables from the front camera assembly:
- The dot projector cable.
- The front camera cable.
- The infrared camera cable.
Tools Used
Step 52
The camera cables have a bit of stickiness keeping them attached to the midframe.
- Grab your trusty spudger and carefully slide its tip between the IR camera cable and the case, starting right at the connector to gently separate the cable from the case.
- Do the same for the front camera cable—slow and steady wins the race!
Tools Used
Step 53
- Gently warm up the front camera assembly to soften the adhesive and make removal a breeze.
Step 54
- Carefully detach the front camera assembly. Take your time, it's a little tricky but totally manageable!
Step 55
- Unplug the following connectors to keep things neat and smooth.
- The WiFi Antenna connector.
- The Wide-Angle Camera connector.
- The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
- The Telephoto Camera connector.
- The Dock Flex connector.
- The Button / Wireless Charging connector.
- The Cellular Antenna connector.
Step 56
- Unplug the WiFi antenna cable connector with a gentle tug.
Step 57
- Gently unplug the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector. No need to rush, just a smooth and careful move!
Step 58
- Gently unplug the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector and set it aside. You're one step closer!
Step 59
- Unplug the Telephoto Camera cable connector like a pro!
Step 60
- First, disconnect the Dock Flex cable connector, making sure you're giving it enough space to come out smoothly.
- Next, carefully bend the cable upwards at a 90-degree angle to clear the way for removing the logic board. Easy, right?
Step 61
- Unplug the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector with care.
Step 62
- Unplug the Cellular Antenna cable connector carefully.
- Gently fold the cable away so it’s out of your way.
Step 63
Make sure to pop that metal grounding tab back in the exact way it came out—no twists or flips!
- You can’t take out the logic board while the SIM card tray is still in place. If you haven’t removed it yet, now’s the time to do it.
- Unscrew the two Phillips screws holding things down.
- Next, take out the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.
- Gently remove the grounding tab.
- Remove the one 2.7 mm Phillips screw.
- Finally, take out the one 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
Step 64
- When the SIM card pops out, a little pin will slide out from the frame and push on the eject lever in the SIM card carrier. Just gently press the pin back into the frame so it won’t block your progress while removing the logic board.
Step 65
- Grab your trusty fine tip tweezers and gently slide the SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case.
- Once it's moved, the eject lever should look just like this—no more pin blocking the logic board’s exit route!
Tools Used
Step 66
- The logic board is securely placed on two posts that go through the lower board and are attached to the upper board. To remove it, just lift it straight up, making sure to pull evenly so it clears the stand-offs. Take it slow and steady!
Step 67
- Lift the edge of the dock connector to make room for accessing the power button and screen retainer.
- Gently bend the dock connector upwards and move it out of the way.
Step 68
- Unscrew the two screws that are holding down the screen retaining clip.
- Carefully lift off the screen retainer.
- One 2.1 mm Phillips screw in case you’re wondering.
- One 1.9 mm Phillips screw hanging out here too.
- When putting the retainer back, make sure it slides snugly behind the black plastic piece on the side opposite the power button.
Step 69
- First up, grab that 1.2 mm Y000 screw and unscrew it to free the cellular antenna cable from the screen retainer. You're doing great!
- Now, gently bend the antenna cable away from the side of the case. This will give you a clear path to access the screws holding the retainer in place. Keep going, you're almost there!
Step 70
- Unscrew those three 1.5 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the screen retainer in place.
- Gently remove the retainer and set it aside.
Step 71
- Now just put everything back together by working through the steps in reverse. If you get stuck, you can always schedule a repair—we’ve got your back!
