Repair an iPhone X That Won’t Charge

- Alright, let's pop that motherboard in and give it a quick test. The phone powers on just like it should.

- Plug in the charger and you’ll see the lightning bolt icon pop up. But heads up—the ammeter shows there’s no charging current flowing.

- Alright, let’s get started by separating the upper and lower layers. Place your motherboard on the heating platform and fit a screw into the hole on the motherboard. This way, we’ll be ready to remove the upper layer easily when it’s time.

- Now, give your motherboard a quick 2-minute heat session on the platform at 165℃. Let the heat do its magic and soften things up for a smooth repair.

- Pop your multimeter into diode mode and test Pin 2 and Pin 3 on battery connector J3200. If your readings look normal, you’re off to a good start.

- Next up, check TIGRIS_LX between charging IC U3300 and Q3350. If the reading is 250, that’s not what we want—it should be 0. Looks like TIGRIS_LX has gone on vacation and left an open circuit behind.

- First up, let's get that upper layer snugly attached to the PCB holder. Don't forget to use some high-temperature tape to secure those components around it—safety first!

- Time to bring out the heat! Grab your QUICK 990AD Hot Air Gun, set it to a cozy 300℃ with an airflow of 3, and let the magic happen.

- Next, we need to bid farewell to the black adhesive that’s hanging around the two inductors. A clean workspace is a happy workspace!

- Once that’s taken care of, let’s add a little love with some paste flux on those two inductors. Crank up the heat again with the Quick 990AD Hot Air Gun, this time to 360℃ and airflow of 3, and watch the wonders unfold!

- Gently lift the two inductors using your pry knife—easy does it!

- Next, spread some medium-temperature solder paste onto the two bonding pads. Then, carefully tin those pads with your soldering iron set to 365℃.

- Finally, clean off any black adhesive lingering on the bonding pads to keep things tidy.

- Apply a little more paste flux to those bonding pads to keep things moving smoothly.

- Position the two inductors just right, then grab your trusty QUICK 990AD Hot Air Gun. Set it to 360℃ and airflow 3, and solder away with ease.

- Once you're done, clean up with a PCB cleaner. Now, let’s check out the diode mode measurement of TIGRIS_LX between U3300 and Q3350. It should read 0 – that's totally normal!

- Alright, it's time to bring together the upper and lower layers with the testing fixture for a little quality check! First things first, give that bonding pad a good clean.

- Next up, let's get those layers connected to the testing fixture. You're doing great!

- First, connect the charging port flex cable with care.

- Next up, hook up the screen and battery to get things powered up.

- Finally, plug in the charging cable. If your ammeter reads around 860mA, congrats—that means your phone is charging just right!

- All right, time to get those two layers to stick together! First, let's give the lower layer a fresh set of solder balls. Pop it into your reballing mold and line up the BGA Reballing Stencil over it.

- Set the mold on the base—the magnetic setup keeps everything snug. Now, spread some low-temp solder paste over the stencil. Wipe off any extra paste with a lint-free wipe, and you’re good to go!

- Once you've reballing done, carefully lift the mold off the base and remove that reballing stencil. Set the lower layer on the heating platform at 165℃ and let the magic happen. Once the solder balls are fully formed, turn off the heating platform.

- Let it cool for 5 minutes—patience pays off! Now, add a bit of BGA Paste Flux to the bonding pad and get that upper layer into position.

- Power the heating platform back on, and bring the temperature back to 165℃. Keep it heating for another 2 minutes to make sure everything’s set.

- Power down and give it a cool 5-minute break. Then carefully lift the motherboard off the heating platform. Take a close look to ensure those two layers are soldered together just right.

- Time to put it all back together and see if it’s working! Reinstall the motherboard and reconnect the display assembly.

- Plug in the charging cable. If you see the lightning bolt on the screen and the ammeter shows a normal charging current, you’re all set—the issue is fixed!