iPad Wi-Fi Speakers Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 20 Steps
Swap out the speaker assembly and bring your iPad’s sound back to life!
Step 1
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes out of harm’s way, and take it easy around the LCD screen—no need to give it a new crack!
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and maintain the strength of your device while you're gently prying and lifting the display.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep those jagged edges in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass first.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.
Step 2
Heads up! In this guide, you'll be gently separating your iPad's display from its aluminum body. Take your time and follow each step closely—those screen clips are delicate little things!
Oops, if any clips snap off, no worries—you can grab replacements right here.
- There are 14 little metal clips keeping the display assembly snug and secure, just like a cozy blanket! As you start prying in the upcoming steps, remember to carefully maneuver around these clips rather than slicing through them with your trusty opening tool. You've got this!
Step 3
- Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
- Gently twist the spudger away from you to pop those tabs loose along the top edge of the display.
- Pop in a second metal spudger between the same edges to hold those tabs in place and prevent them from snapping back.
Tools Used
Step 4
Pry with care and a light touch—if it feels stuck, pause and try a different spot instead.
- Grab your trusty spudger and carefully slide it along the right edge of the iPad.
- The front panel is snapped onto the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. On the right, it’s held in place by plastic tabs that tuck neatly into slots on the backplate.
- Once you’ve popped those clips free, gently lift the left side of the front panel and slide it left to release the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Step 5
Hold off on pulling off the display right now—it’s still hanging out attached to the rear panel assembly.
- Gently lift the display assembly up and away from the rear panel, grabbing it by the bottom edge. Nice and easy—no need to rush!
Step 6
- Next up, we’re unplugging the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables handle:
- Digitizer
- Ambient Light Sensor
- Display Data Cable
Step 7
Make sure you're lifting the retaining flap and not the socket itself. You've got this!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift those tiny retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in place on the logic board. No need to rush—steady hands win the race!
- Carefully slide the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Easy does it; you’ve got this!
Step 8
- Gently use a plastic opening tool to nudge the ambient light sensor connector out of its socket by prying it up carefully. You've got this!
Step 9
Gently tug on the connector, making sure to pull it straight out in line with the face of the logic board. You've got this!
- Carefully detach the display data cable from the main board by lifting up the metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab.
- Gently pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Step 10
- Gently separate the display assembly from the rear panel assembly, like unveiling the next chapter of your repair adventure.
Step 11
- Unscrew those two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws that are keeping the dock connector cable snug with the main board. Let's get that cable free!
Step 12
- Loosen and take out the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw that’s holding the dock connector cable to the rear case assembly. Easy does it!
Step 13
- Unscrew the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws holding the dock connector cable to the rear panel assembly—time to get those screws out and keep this repair rolling!
Step 14
- Gently pop off that plastic cover sitting over the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable using a trusty plastic opening tool. Go slow and steady—no need to rush!
Step 15
- Gently lift the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas from their cozy little homes on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
- Carefully disconnect the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly, ensuring it's done with love.
Step 16
Gently lift up from underneath the wires.
- Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to unplug the speaker connector from the logic board.
Step 17
If needed, peel off any tape that's keeping the Wi-Fi cables under wraps.
- Unscrew the two tiny 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws that hold the speaker assembly in place on the rear panel—time to set those speakers free!
Step 18
- Carefully guide the Wi-Fi antenna along its designated path within the speaker assembly. Let's make sure it finds its cozy spot!
Step 19
- Gently guide the speaker cable connector along the left edge of the rear panel assembly—like showing a friend the scenic route.
Step 20
- Ready to put your device back together? Just walk through these steps in reverse, and you'll be up and running in no time. If you hit a snag or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
