iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Microphone Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 39 Steps
Got a busted microphone? No worries! This guide will walk you through swapping out that broken mic and getting your device back to crystal-clear sound. Let's dive in and get that audio back to its best!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
It's a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. Any leftover gunk on the bottom might end up sticking to the iOpener, and nobody wants that!
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up.
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Step 2
Don't let the iOpener get too hot during your repair. If it overheats, it could burst, and nobody wants that! Keep the temperature below 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it's puffing up, don't touch it. Safety first!
If the iOpener is still too warm to handle in the middle, just give it a moment to cool down. It'll stay warm for up to 10 minutes, so take your time and heat it again when it's ready.
Microwave power levels can change the timing, so keep an eye on it. Your iOpener is ready when it’s hot enough to feel the heat but not burn your fingers.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it nice and warm.
- As you work through the repair, keep an eye on your iOpener. When it cools down, just give it another 30-second spin in the microwave and you'll be good to go!
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Step 3
Be cautious with the iOpener—it's going to be pretty toasty! If it feels like it's too hot to handle, grab an oven mitt and give your hands a break.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends so you don’t get burned by the hot center.
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Step 4
Careful there! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Stay safe while you work your magic!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by carefully placing it in boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat to let it cool slightly.
- Pop the iOpener into the hot water for 2 to 3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to carefully fish the warmed iOpener out of the water.
- Dry it off thoroughly with a towel so it’s ready to work its magic.
- Need to heat it up again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2 to 3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that precious LCD screen—let's keep it intact!
Taping up the glass helps keep those sneaky shards from flying everywhere and gives you some solid grip when prying and lifting the screen.
- If your display glass is cracked, let's keep it from shattering further and protect yourself while you work by sticking some tape on it.
- Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad's display until it's fully covered—like giving it a protective blanket!
- Try to follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just remember, once the glass starts cracking, it might keep doing its thing as you go along. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass if it gets stubborn.
Step 6
Heads up! You might be dealing with some broken glass here, so we recommend protecting those eyes with safety glasses to keep flying shards at bay. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it's nice and snug against the surface for a good bond.
- Give the iOpener about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to lift the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little elbow grease. Be patient and take your time, gently wiggling the tool back and forth until it slips in. Slow and steady wins the race!
- Check out the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your ticket in.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to nudge it open a bit.
Step 8
- Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You're doing great!
Step 9
- While keeping the tip of that handy plastic opening tool snugly wedged between the front glass and the plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You're doing great!
Step 10
- Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from the iPad and gently slide the opening pick further beneath the front glass, going for a depth of about 0.5 inches. You've got this!
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, go ahead and give your iOpener another heat-up, then place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You've got this!
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Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle!
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, just pull it back a little bit. Going this deep with the pick won’t cause any damage, but it might leave some adhesive gunk on the LCD.
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let's get to work on the right edge of the iPad and start peeling away that pesky adhesive.
- Grab your trusty opening pick and slide it down the edge of the iPad, gently coaxing the adhesive to let go as you go along.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, it might be a good idea to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This could be necessary depending on how long the iPad has been chilling while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try 'rolling' it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is nestled at the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Because of how it's oriented, take it slow and steady here—one wrong move could mean goodbye to your Wi-Fi antenna!
- Alright, folks, it's time to channel your inner expert! These next steps are a bit tricky, so let's take it slow and steady.
- You'll need to carefully free the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep everything intact, especially those delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s tackle this with care and attention—follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: make sure you don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. Going too far could put a dent in your Wi-Fi antenna, and we’d hate for that to happen!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, be on high alert! The Wi-Fi antenna is chilling right by the corner, and if we’re not careful, it might just get snipped if the adhesive decides to throw a tantrum. Let's keep it safe and sound!
Just a friendly tip: Don’t yank that pick out completely from under the front glass! Give it a little tug so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy underneath the front glass. You've got this!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- After you've passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide your opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener in check! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before giving it another go.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just give the iOpener another quick warm-up to soften things back up right where you’re working.
- Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully maneuvering it around the home button. Once past the button, tuck the pick back in about half an inch (10 mm) and keep going!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in up to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) right here—just enough to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of your iPad to free it up completely.
- Leave the opening pick tucked just under the front glass near the home button to keep things ready for the next move.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently soften the adhesive in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled off too much, pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself feels chilly, just give it a quick heat-up and you’re good to go.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little pull to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Keep in mind, the adhesive here is quite strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could lead to accidental damage to yourself or your iPad.
- If the opening pick starts to feel stuck due to the sticky stuff, don't panic! Just 'roll' the pick like you see in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive has softened up a bit, go ahead and remove the iOpener from the iPad. But if it's still sticking like glue, no worries—just heat up the iOpener again and place it along the left edge as you keep working. You’ve got this!
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then glide your opening pick smoothly around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you're around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding that pick! You've got this!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive as you go! The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer that runs along the entire left side. Just remember to keep the pick shallow—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You've got this!
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to avoid cutting this little guy.
- Slide the opening pick that’s already tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad to gently free the adhesive in the bottom left corner. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive along the edge of the iPad might have decided to stick back down. If that happens, no worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck. A little 'cut' through that adhesive, and you're back on track!
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently wiggle it into the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once you've pried it up a bit, use your fingers to lift it away with care. You're on your way to a smooth repair!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky glue still hanging on, and use an opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive keeping the front panel stuck down.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently rotate the front glass away from the device.
- When you're putting everything back together, be sure to give the LCD a quick clean with a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to get rid of any dust or fingerprints before you place the glass back on.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD to the back case—time to give that screen some freedom!
Step 29
Handle the LCD gently while moving it, and don’t try to peel it off the iPad just yet—the display data cable is still hanging on while you swivel it around.
The front panel ribbon cables hide out right under the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to gently flip the LCD over and move it aside for a moment.
- Carefully lift the LCD starting from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning a page in your favorite book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel to keep it safe while you work.
Step 30
Make sure you're lifting the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. You don't want to accidentally mess with the wrong part!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.
- Slide the plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to gently separate it from the adhesive holding it to the rear panel.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 31
- Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that hold the headphone jack to the back panel—easy does it!
Step 32
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the tape and adhesive holding the headphone jack and front camera cables to the rear panel, and peel them away with care.
Step 33
Hold your horses! The front camera is still playing hard to get with the rear panel, so don’t yank it off just yet.
- Gently pull the headphone jack away from the top edge of the iPad to free it up.
Step 34
- Gently lift the headphone jack and front camera cables just a bit to expose the microphone connector.
- Take your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully use the edge to free the microphone connector from its socket on the headphone jack & front camera cables.
Step 35
- Gently lift the front camera off the foam adhesive that's holding it snugly to the rear panel. It's like giving it a little hug goodbye!
- Carefully detach the headphone jack and front camera assembly from the iPad. You're almost there!
Step 36
- Gently peel away the tape covering the front camera cable connector. Take your time—no rush, just steady hands and you're good to go.
Step 37
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool between the front camera cable and the headphone jack cable to carefully disconnect them.
Step 38
- Gently lift the foam piece off the top of the microphone cable assembly. Take your time; it's like peeling a sticker off your favorite notebook!
Step 39
- To put your device back together, simply reverse the steps we went through and grab our guide for using those iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips to stick that front panel back on. If you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some extra support!
