iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out that busted rear camera and get your device snapping sharp shots again.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins smoothly without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
Before you start, give your microwave a quick clean—nobody wants leftover gunk sticking to the iOpener when you're heating it up!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave to get it ready for action.
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Step 2
Hey there, just a friendly reminder to keep the iOpener from getting too toasty during your repair adventure. If it gets too hot, it might surprise you by bursting! So let's keep it under 100˚C (212˚F), shall we?
If the iOpener looks a bit puffy, it's best to steer clear of it for now.
Still feeling the heat? If the middle of the iOpener is too hot to handle, keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another warm-up. A perfectly heated iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes!
Microwave wattage varies, so you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. The iOpener is ready to roll when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Give your iOpener a cozy thirty-second spa session in the microwave. It's time to warm things up!
- As you dive into the repair adventure, keep that iOpener nice and toasty. When it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever you need a boost.
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Step 3
Careful, the iOpener is a hotshot! Handle it with care—an oven mitt can be your best buddy here.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the steamy hot center!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.
- Drop the iOpener into the hot water, making sure it's fully submerged, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes.
- Use some tongs to carefully lift the warmed-up iOpener out of the water.
- Give the iOpener a good dry-off with a towel.
- Now your iOpener is all set to go! Need to warm it up again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener back in for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and handle that LCD screen like it’s the crown jewels—no scratches or cracks allowed!
This trick keeps those pesky glass shards from flying everywhere and gives your display some extra muscle when prying and lifting.
- If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering into a million pieces and causing any harm. Grab some tape and cover that glass up!
- Layer on some clear packing tape, overlapping the strips until the entire face of your iPad is shielded.
- Now, follow the rest of the guide as closely as you can. Just a heads up, once that glass is cracked, it might keep on cracking while you work. You may need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you’ll be handling some broken glass during this step, it’s a smart move to pop on some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards out of your eyes.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it's nice and smooth for optimal contact with the device.
- Allow the bag to rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds before diving into the exciting adventure of opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the opening tool tip wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle—stay cool and patient! Gently wiggle the tool back and forth to ease it in without causing any damage.
- There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to nudge it open a bit.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass panel—gotta get that spot just right!
Step 9
- Place the tip of the plastic opening tool gently between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Now, carefully slide a plastic opening pick into the gap, right next to the tool, and keep the momentum going. You've got this!
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch or so.
Step 11
- While you're working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and give the iOpener another round of heat. Then, pop it onto the bottom edge of the iPad. It'll help make the job smoother!
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Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a tad. Going this deep with the pick won’t harm anything, but it might leave some sticky adhesive smudges on the LCD.
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, peeling back the adhesive bit by bit.
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Step 13
Depending on how long the iPad has had to cool down while you were working, you might need to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge to keep that adhesive nice and soft as you peel it away.
- If your opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, try 'rolling' it gently along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
- Before you pull out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again and glide it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of your iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the Wi-Fi antenna has a unique orientation, it's super important to handle it with care to avoid any irreversible mishaps. You've got this!
- Heads up: the next few steps need you to be extra careful.
- You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.
Step 16
Heads up! Don’t slide the pick past the bottom right corner — that’s where the Wi-Fi antenna chills, and we want to keep it safe and sound.
- Carefully slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
Slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel with care. The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out near that corner, so be gentle to avoid cutting through its adhesive—let’s keep it intact!
Just a friendly reminder: don't completely yank that pick out from beneath the front glass! Instead, gently wiggle it out a smidge so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under the glass. You've got this!
- Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You're doing great!
Step 18
- Now that you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that opening pick back in to its full depth!
- Gently glide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive that's holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You're doing great!
- Keep in mind, the antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. By completing this step, you're safely disconnecting the antenna from the front panel, making sure it stays intact when you lift off the panel. You're a pro!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener heating sessions short—no more than a minute each—and give it a solid two-minute chill-out before warming it up again.
If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, give the iOpener another warm hug to heat things up where you're working.
- Keep pulling back that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Wiggle that opening pick around the home button, and once you’ve navigated past it, slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You're doing great!
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Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Peel away the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, taking it nice and slow to avoid any hiccups.
- Keep that opening pick tucked neatly under the front glass, just below the home button, like it's taking a cozy nap.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave to get it nice and warm. Once it's ready, place it on the left edge of your iPad to start softening up the adhesive in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, no worries! Just swap out the iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener isn't warm enough, give it another heat-up.
- Gently slide your trusty opening pick along the top edge of your iPad and give it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket like a pro.
- Now, this adhesive is no joke—it's thick and might put up a bit of a fight. Take your time, be careful, and watch out for any slip-ups that could lead to an accidental 'oops' moment for you or your iPad.
- If your opening pick feels like it's stuck in the gooey adhesive, try a little 'roll' action as shown in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive has warmed up enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easy access. But if it's still feeling sticky, no worries – just heat up the iOpener again and place it along the left edge while you continue working. Keep at it, you're doing great!
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out just about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you're roughly 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom. It's a pretty tight spot, so be careful, and take it slow!
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, carefully loosening the adhesive as you go. Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable. You've got this!
- Slide the opening pick gently under the bottom edge of the iPad and carefully loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad likes to play sticky and reattach itself. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding on and carefully slice through the glue to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks, and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it's loose, use your fingers to pull it away with ease.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that could be keeping that front panel in place. You've got this!
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. You got this!
- When putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints from the LCD. Your screen will thank you for it!
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD to the back case—time to free that screen!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, and remember not to detach it from the iPad—its display data cable will stay connected while you give it a gentle twist.
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked right under the LCD. To get to them, just flip the LCD over carefully and move it aside for a bit.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book.
- Once you've done that, place the LCD face down on the front panel, ready for the next step!
Step 30
- Gently peel back the rubber cover from the metal camera retainer and take it off the iPad 2. You've got this!
Step 31
Make sure that tiny thermal pad is snugly stuck to the metal retaining clip, just like you see in the third picture, when swapping out the rear-facing camera.
- First up, let's tackle those screws! Grab your trusty screwdriver and remove these two gems:
- Now, gently lift that metal retainer clip straight up from its cozy spot in the rear panel.
- One 3.3 mm Phillips screw, ready to go!
- And don't forget the one and only 2.1 mm Phillips screw, it's just as important!
Step 32
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order, and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on like a pro. If you hit a snag, remember, you can always schedule a repair!
